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FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Re: WTB Right hand mirror 1993 K75S
« Last post by Chaos on Today at 07:30:14 PM »I rode for many years with mis matched mirrors and nobody ever noticed
Community of BMW K75 K100 K1 K1100 Indestructible Flying Brick Riders
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Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: new member
« Last post by natalena on Today at 07:22:01 PM »Welcome aboard. Have fun refreshing the brick!
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Last post by bitsa on Today at 06:09:58 PM »If the description of what you've done and the results is accurate, maybe one of the wires connecting the pump to the sender has a weakness hidden within the sheathing that opens the circuit when it's manipulated in a certain direction. I'd be wiggling those wires when they're energized to discover if the current drops out sometimes.
This is close to what I'm thinking. I reckon the connection is in fact bad (either at the plug, or within the wire) it's able to show 12v under a simple multimeter test but unable to carry enough current to operate the pump. I'd lay money on you being able to watch the voltage drop to zero if you connected a load to the ring terminals while measuring.
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FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Re: WTB Right hand mirror 1993 K75S
« Last post by Laitch on Today at 05:34:00 PM »And we're getting the version that matched the bikes VIN#. Cheers.A lot of parts-swapping happens with these Bricks. Measure the length of the stem on both sides of the angle; that info could come in handy.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Last post by Laitch on Today at 05:29:00 PM »If the description of what you've done and the results is accurate, maybe one of the wires connecting the pump to the sender has a weakness hidden within the sheathing that opens the circuit when it's manipulated in a certain direction. I'd be wiggling those wires when they're energized to discover if the current drops out sometimes.
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FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Re: WTB Right hand mirror 1993 K75S
« Last post by aircooled5 on Today at 04:09:38 PM »Hi all, thanks for your advice. After scanning Ebay and other sources, decided to order from local BMW dealer. Apparently they have one in stock lucky me. And we're getting the version that matched the bikes VIN#. Cheers.
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FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Re: WTB Right hand mirror 1993 K75S
« Last post by frankenduck on Today at 03:49:18 PM »There are three styles of K handlebar mirrors. There's no right and left. They are the same part, you just spin the mirror body 180 degrees on the stem.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Clutch free play randomly increased
« Last post by frankenduck on Today at 03:40:08 PM »1 - It's possible that the aft end of the cable wasn't properly seated in the hole in the transmission and finally slipped into place.
2 - The locknut on the adjuster is loose and the bolt is backing out.
2 - The locknut on the adjuster is loose and the bolt is backing out.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: K75 fuel pump whack
« Last post by Lbxpdx on Today at 03:12:34 PM »I might check the grounds for the alternator, check the main ground under the tank, disassemble/clean the ignition switch and disassemble/clean the kill switch.
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The Motobrick Workshop / K75 fuel pump whack
« Last post by TriSpark on Today at 02:51:22 PM »I let my 1987 K75s sit for a year when it ran into a bad starter motor problem, which I fixed last week. Yes, I know it's not good to let them sit, but other projects got in the way and that's what happened. Anyway, now it turns over perfectly when the key is on and the start button is pressed.
But now it won't fire up and there's no fuel pump sound. I put in a new fuel pump from eBay, and still the same. No noise at all from the old pump or the new one when they are installed in the tank. However, on the bench they both buzz when 12V is applied, but no buzz when installed in the tank.
I removed the fuel sender from the bottom of the tank to check that for continuity. I know it can be a problem area. With a multimeter, I verified 12V coming from the 4 pin tank connector to it (green and brown wires), all the way through to the ring connectors that go on the + and - connections on the pump. I get a solid 12V there each time I press the starter button. Also checked the 7.5A fuse to the FI system is good. But when the ring connectors are attached to the pump posts....nothing. Same on the old and new pumps.
I tried switching polarity on the pump posts to briefly spin it backwards to free it up, as suggested on some of the posts about fuel pumps here (yes, I did search that first) but no joy.
It was all working before I replaced the bad starter motor. Did I miss something obvious ?
But now it won't fire up and there's no fuel pump sound. I put in a new fuel pump from eBay, and still the same. No noise at all from the old pump or the new one when they are installed in the tank. However, on the bench they both buzz when 12V is applied, but no buzz when installed in the tank.
I removed the fuel sender from the bottom of the tank to check that for continuity. I know it can be a problem area. With a multimeter, I verified 12V coming from the 4 pin tank connector to it (green and brown wires), all the way through to the ring connectors that go on the + and - connections on the pump. I get a solid 12V there each time I press the starter button. Also checked the 7.5A fuse to the FI system is good. But when the ring connectors are attached to the pump posts....nothing. Same on the old and new pumps.
I tried switching polarity on the pump posts to briefly spin it backwards to free it up, as suggested on some of the posts about fuel pumps here (yes, I did search that first) but no joy.
It was all working before I replaced the bad starter motor. Did I miss something obvious ?