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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Headlight bulb conversion
« Last post by Soggz on Today at 03:09:01 AM »
Ebay or Aliexpress I picked up 2 x 6" light bars for $16.00 Au. The bricks should really be fitted with a relay to stop the switch from overloading., see Eastern Beaver. With a relay fitted it is easy to wire in the auxiliary lights to the high beam circuit with a separate switch to switch off when not required. There are also heaps of wiring diagrams on the net.
Regards Martin.
Thanks Martin.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Headlight bulb conversion
« Last post by Martin on Today at 03:06:55 AM »
Ebay or Aliexpress I picked up 2 x 6" light bars for $16.00 Au. The bricks should really be fitted with a relay to stop the switch from overloading., see Eastern Beaver. With a relay fitted it is easy to wire in the auxiliary lights to the high beam circuit with a separate switch to switch off when not required. There are also heaps of wiring diagrams on the net.
Regards Martin.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Headlight bulb conversion
« Last post by Soggz on Today at 02:28:45 AM »
Ok.
Thanks all. Basically, the reason Iím asking, is that
my low beam went out last night, so I was thinking that while I had all the cowl off to change the bulb, would it be worth me putting an led in.
Where would I get the twin spotlights from, And is it easy to wire them in? ( Iím not good at electrickery).
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Headlight bulb conversion
« Last post by Chri5 on September 20, 2019, 10:32:04 PM »
You wont pass an MOT with an led bulb in the stock housing the new mot rules (2018) have been tightened. aftermarket led bulbs in normal housing are strictly prohibited unless your on good terms with the inspector and hes willing to fudge it for you

But you can always swap the bulbs for the mot but watch out for vosa vehicles they will pull you for it as its easily spotted
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Headlight bulb conversion
« Last post by Martin on September 20, 2019, 09:37:29 PM »
Use a legal high wattage H4 bulb, add a relay and if that's not bright enough add a couple of auxiliary LED spots or a LED light bar.
Regards Martin.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Headlight bulb conversion
« Last post by Filmcamera on September 20, 2019, 09:05:50 PM »
I had a dodgy LED for a while but though bright it was rubbish.


In the end I went this route


http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html


with this bulb


https://www.amazon.com/BREAKER-Halogen-Headlight-64193NBL-Folding/dp/B01LLKFX8Q/ref=dp_ob_title_auto


It is not quite a bright as an LED but saves your switches and has the proper pattern.  For out and out brightness I have some cheap and cheerful spots added.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Headlight bulb conversion
« Last post by stokester on September 20, 2019, 07:22:56 PM »
Do you want an LED replacement that works properly and is legal? 

If the answer is no, there are a lot of LED H4 replacements out there, some of them are pretty cheap, too.

If the answer is yes, then you need to wait.  There are no LED H4 replacements that meet D.O.T. requirements for pattern and scatter.
As a former licensed Virginia State Inspector I've had this discussion with many riders.

You are correct, and in the Commonwealth of Virginia the installed bulb must match the embossed label on the headlight assembly.  Most inspectors will not go to that extent to fail you on an inspection but by the law it is still not allowed.  It is the same with cars.  If the headlamp says H4 and you have an HID or LED bulb in there it does not pass inspection.

There is a reason for this.  The light pattern of the original bulb was matched to the headlamp assembly and frequently an improper replacement will not illuminate the road according to the law.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Headlight bulb conversion
« Last post by Soggz on September 20, 2019, 07:10:11 PM »
Do you want an LED replacement that works properly and is legal? 

If the answer is no, there are a lot of LED H4 replacements out there, some of them are pretty cheap, too.

If the answer is yes, then you need to wait.  There are no LED H4 replacements that meet D.O.T. requirements for pattern and scatter.
just something that works,really.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?
« Last post by natalena on September 20, 2019, 06:39:17 PM »
Twisted Throttle has the SW-Motech bar riser for K bikes on sale. Got a set for about $65.00 (bar=22mm, H=30mm, Back=21mm), and they shipped super fast.
The kit is very nice with plastic plugs to detail fill the hex head bolts. Parts were individually packaged to avoid scratching...which happened on installation anyway.
The stock K75S front brake hose is long enough and just needed to be loosened and pivoted a bit. All other lines had ample length.
Ended up fabing up asymmetrical brackets to avoid any rub on the brake hose, keeping in mind full-lock clearance for the tank cover if used.
Mirrors adjust fine, and the slightly more upright posture is much more comfortable, especially on the wrists/forearms. GPS moves up a bit and blocks the low-gas and "choke" lights a little, although they can still be noted when lit.
Cheers!
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: How to unstuck a stuck fuel injectors
« Last post by TommyT on September 20, 2019, 05:21:39 PM »
My 85 k100rt had sat for three years with ethanol included gasoline.

I tried 2 weeks of soaking in Berryman's carb cleaner bucket ($20 from the local auto parts store). No "click" response with 12 Volts across the Leads. Put them back for another week. Still no click. Put them in for a few more days. Happy clicky-opening sounds!

Somewhere else on this forum, there's a list of cars that have compatible o-rings, something like a Chevy Cavalier from the 2000's. Full set for the k100 was less than $4.00.

After I got the fuel tank all cleaned out, and the fuel pump and filter replaced, I connected the fuel injectors in to the rail, but NOT in to the engine. I put a piece of notebook paper under the injectors, then hit the starter. Some nasty orange/brown goo came out right away. Then it started squirting clean gas.

That was 15k miles ago. No fuel issues since.
That is encouraging, I am still spraying PB Blaster into them hoping to get the same results that you got. I got a number at NAPA for o rings that will fit and new filters for them. I did use the eBay injectors, but I was concern that when I had to pull off the pin holed fuel rail the plastic tips and filters came off with the stuck upper O rings.  They did go back together okay but I did notice the  use of plastic in them. The bike did start up today, but I ran into another surprising problem with the project bike. That will be posted up in another topic soon.
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