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91
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Coolant change…
« Last post by Atabeach on May 04, 2024, 08:10:10 PM »
Thanks Laitch, wish me luck…Imma turn this puppy into my daily driver as my current “ c “ has less than 9 k on the clock…I want to keep her virginity palpable…
92
Project Custom Motobricks / Re: Arktasian's 95 K75 on Microsquirt Mod Table
« Last post by Arktasian on May 04, 2024, 08:04:28 PM »
Another update - as things "changed" from the planned schedule, where the K75 would have been started, plated, and being run to develop the tune, this summer.
For various reasons that I'll leave in the background, it became obvious we needed to finish our basement for a suite and that is what I've devoted all my time into, completing end of May if all things go as planned.
Hence, as riding season is also upon us and I feel the calling daily as I'm toiling with studs and drywall - I will be on the "R" bike and using it for summer trips and riding.
That and some upcoming contract work up on the "Slope" means the K bike will get a start and some stationary tuning, but probably not plated this season.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Coolant change…
« Last post by Laitch on May 04, 2024, 06:52:12 PM »
I’ll check for leaks near the clutch boot, also the bolt adjustment… Anything else? If I purchase…I’ll need to go through her pretty good including spline lube. Let me know of any obvious things to check specific to K bikes…..TIA
TIA is not accepted; only TATM is. :laughing4-giggles:

When idling or riding in slow moving South Florida traffic, the fan is going to run; that isn't a bad thing. It means the system is working. It shouldn't be running at speed. Let the bike idle for 15 minutes. If the fan doesn't start, that's a problem. The fan might run slightly less often if you were running 50:50 coolant:distilled water in hot weather. If the radiator fins are clean, if the coolant isn't cloudy, if the starting speed lever has two stages, there's hope. If love bugs are still problematic down there, you'll need to back-spray the radiator more often. You'll need to do that if you often ride at night, too.


Verify that the bulb check triangle in the instrument cluster is lit when the key is turned to On and goes dark after the front and rear brakes are activated

Look at the coolant reservoir. If it's below the MIN line, the previous owner's head isnt screwed on correctly and there might be other examples of neglect, like low or no oil in the rear drive and ancient fluid in the brake reservoirs. The brake fluid should be clear.

Leaks at the clutch boot aren't necessarily serious. They can be caused by lack of tension placed on the clutch nut by the clutch arm bolt because the basic clutch adjustment was incorrectly set, or by a loose boot clamp. Oil from the transmission/engine weep hole, or water/oil from the combination pump weep hole will take some disassembly to repair if the leaks are dripping significantly daily.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Coolant change…
« Last post by Atabeach on May 04, 2024, 01:55:05 PM »
OK Laitch…I did get a little more fluid in her this time around Thanks!  factory says 2.5L… I think the belly pan I installed is making the fan run a little more often…PS…looking at a Blue 1990 K75S 41k to add to the corral. I’ll check for leaks near the clutch boot, also the bolt adjustment… Anything else? If I purchase…I’ll need to go through her pretty good including spline lube. Let me know of any obvious things to check specific to K bikes…..TIA
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: 1985 BMW K100RT won't idle
« Last post by Bmwsquirl on May 04, 2024, 07:28:15 AM »
For boots try a company called siliconeintakes.com
Squirrel
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: 1985 BMW K100RT won't idle
« Last post by frankenduck on May 04, 2024, 04:39:52 AM »
My first guess is throttle body boot(s).

https://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/tbleak/tbleak.htm

Part 11611460408

They "only" cost $61 each these days and you want to replace all of them so you're looking at $244.

Would I pay that much? Not in a million years - because a I have both Swedish and Scottish genes trying to out-cheap each other.

The last K75 that I bought had a bad TB boot. I paid less than $30 shipped for a used set of three on Ebay - knowing that I could return them for free if I didn't like them. Turned out that they were in great shape so I gave them a 303 bath and installed them.

https://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/k75pa.rehab/k75parehab.htm#fuel.rail



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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Coolant change…
« Last post by frankenduck on May 04, 2024, 04:17:27 AM »
I recently bought a Spal 6.5" puller fan from Jeep Specialties, cost $60 plus $15 to ship. Price has gone up ten bucks but it's still a great deal compared to some alternatives. It's going in my 94 1100RS soon.
https://jeepandtruckparts.com/products/spal-325-cfm-6-5in-fan-push-va22-ap11-c-50s?variant=43733792227571&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwltKxBhDMARIsAG8KnqVaGvFJpGVO4_MocuxjJkE6eYtIPNAhkQdlv0J3Wh9uBG3J0HsoATsaAvdLEALw_wcB

$72 shipped on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PB44TO/
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Coolant change…
« Last post by bluekbike on May 04, 2024, 02:01:19 AM »
I recently bought a Spal 6.5" puller fan from Jeep Specialties, cost $60 plus $15 to ship. Price has gone up ten bucks but it's still a great deal compared to some alternatives. It's going in my 94 1100RS soon.
https://jeepandtruckparts.com/products/spal-325-cfm-6-5in-fan-push-va22-ap11-c-50s?variant=43733792227571&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwltKxBhDMARIsAG8KnqVaGvFJpGVO4_MocuxjJkE6eYtIPNAhkQdlv0J3Wh9uBG3J0HsoATsaAvdLEALw_wcB
99
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: 1985 BMW K100RT won't idle
« Last post by pinhead on May 04, 2024, 01:30:30 AM »
I changed the coolant temperature sensor a few weeks ago and no improvement.  I replaced that z tube last fall.  but no change .....
100
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: 1985 BMW K100RT won't idle
« Last post by The Mighty Gryphon on May 03, 2024, 09:33:48 PM »
First thing I would look for is an air leak.  The crankcase breather tube(AKA "Z" tube) or the bushings above and below the throttle bodies are usual culprits.

Another possibility is a faulty coolant temperature sensor. 

There is information on how to check these items here at the forum.
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