1987 K100LT Resto - from bits to brick

[FlatSix]

Can you give a little more detail in how you cleaned up the switches? I'm not making much progress.

No problem.  Mostly the switches needed just a good cleaning.  So I cleaned the buttons with degreaser and 3M scotchbrite pads. They can be a little aggressive so as to not eliminate the markings on the buttons I used my favorite... Mister Clean Magic Eraser.  Great for cleaning things and the yellow/red buttons responded well to this.  I also used Deoxit on all the electrical components.  I decided to replace the orange turn button as mine looked more faded than the yellow or red buttons and I could easily order a replacement and it's only 1 small screw to replace.  For the right hand switches I will probably order new ones.  Mine look OK but the buttons are broken and I haven't found a source for replacement (other than the orange one).  The whole switch is available new thankfully.

Hope that helps.

[billday]

Good call replacing the right-hand switches -- when the Start button goes wonky, all kinds of mysterious electrical woes follow. The new replacements from EME are great in my experience.

[FlatSix]

I ride in a cold climate and heated grips are the only way to go.  I've bought bikes with Oxford Heated Grips and they work every bit as good as the BMW factory ones, just that you don't have the hidden wiring. You have to figure out where & how you want the wiring to work at the grips before you cement them in place.  I used the Oxford Heated Grips for Sport bikes, on my K100RT, closest length to stock and they are designed to work with bar end weights.  They have different lengths and most of them are trim able for length. Check them out.

Heated jackets or vests also work well, but I find if I have heated grips and a fairing I can get away with just the heated grips and layers of polyester clothing under my riding jacket & pants.  I always carry a spare set of gloves with me.

With respect to the fuel cooler you might wish to relocate the Fuel Pressure Regulator as well to get it out of the heat soak behind the throttle bodies. With it moved and the fuel rail and hoses insulated with reflective material used in car racing etc, comes in various lengths and diameters as well as flat sheets that you can use on the tank, it will greatly cut down on the heat in the gas tank.  Check out a place that supplies the racing fellows.  If you are not going to put the fairing lowers on then you can get away with out any of the above.  Check this site or the web for descriptions of those that have modified the fuel hoses etc.

If you check at a body shop supply place they have some fiberglass fillers stuff, with Kevlar,  that comes in a squeezable bag and you just add hardener, it is designed for plastic.  I've used it to rebuild fenders and small tabs on side panels with excellent results. This stuff sets up quickly and gets hard as a rock when it cures, so you want to do some preliminary filling before it hardens fully. Read the directions. You crack looks pretty big so you would need a layer of something like fiberlgass on the inner side, to support it.

You've done a good job and keep going.

Thank you for all this.  Do you have any thoughts on seat heaters?  I need to have my seat redone and I was thinking that since the cover will be off I might use that opportunity to add a seat heater for rider and passenger.  Never had one on a bike but as I get older I find the seat heaters in my car getting used more often.

Had not thought about moving the fuel pressure regulator.  I will look into where it could be mounted.  I do plan on adding the fairing lowers at this time.  However I might change my mind...

I was watching Youtube videos on fairing repairs recently.  I think it is doable but honestly I still wish I just had a solid fairing that didn't need repairing.

[Laitch]

Does your moto have a 50A alternator? Operating heated gloves, a jacket, a seat, pants, socks, a Garmin, a toaster oven and etc., the stock 30A will be getting a stress test.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Where in Texas are you located?  It's not one of the places where I would expect anyone to need heated grips.  Even up here in shouting distance from the Great White North I can ride late into the year without them.  Usually if it's cold enough to need heated grips, the roads are coated with ice and enough salt to make an anchovy jealous.  Not the best environment for a bike.

[alabrew]

We git cold, well, not as some of y'all, but the roads are clear so I can ride. I rode home a couple of years ago from mom's, 4 hrs away. It was 70 a few days earlier when I went over, but that day it was 33 when I left. I appreciated the heated seat and grips on the LT, plus the heated vest. Gore-Tex is my friend, too. Stopped 2 hrs in at a Wendy's to git some chili to warm up.The outside temp. rose too, and it started to rain, at least it was 40, for the remainder of the ride...

[FlatSix]

Does your moto have a 50A alternator? Operating heated gloves, a jacket, a seat, pants, socks, a Garmin, a toaster oven and etc., the stock 30A will be getting a stress test.

Nope, stock 30Amper.  Good to keep in mind that I don't want to overtax the system... Could have gone with the 50A version but decided not to at the time.  Clearly not all my choices are good.

Where in Texas are you located?  It's not one of the places where I would expect anyone to need heated grips.  Even up here in shouting distance from the Great White North I can ride late into the year without them.  Usually if it's cold enough to need heated grips, the roads are coated with ice and enough salt to make an anchovy jealous.  Not the best environment for a bike.

Slightly south of Hell where it gets pretty warm in the summer.  But a boy can dream of escape, can't he?

greetings...

seat heators... ridor and passengor... ha ha ha ha ha...

any moar questions...

j o

OK, so its a no on the seat heaters.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Running draw on a stock K bike is conservatively estimated at about 18-20 amps.  If you use LED driving lights at 10 watts that rises about 2 more amps.  That leaves you at least 7-8 amps for heated gear or about 80-90 watts of heat.  If you layer properly above it, that is enough heat to make you medium/well done after a day of riding. 

A 50A alternator is really only necessary if you plan long two up trips in temperatures near freezing.

[FlatSix]

Running draw on a stock K bike is conservatively estimated at about 18-20 amps.  If you use LED driving lights at 10 watts that rises about 2 more amps.  That leaves you at least 7-8 amps for heated gear or about 80-90 watts of heat.  If you layer properly above it, that is enough heat to make you medium/well done after a day of riding. 

A 50A alternator is really only necessary if you plan long two up trips in temperatures near freezing.

Thank you for that info.  I do plan to go full LED if I can sort it all out.

[FlatSix]

It's been a busy few weeks working on multiple projects.  I have come to the realization that I do indeed have too many going at the moment and I need to thin them out.  But I won't be thinning out the K100.  Work continues...

Mostly electrical work of late.  Re-wrapped the wiring harness.  Also cleaning of some old parts and installed the pod and instrument cluster.  Also continued my work on the handlebar grips but I am still waiting for parts.  At one point the electrical appeared overwhelming and I was thinking Oh boy what did I get myself into.  But as I make a little progress sorting it out I feel better.  I have the schematics and the PO labeled the harness but about half the labels are unreadable so not of much use. 

I bought a battery a while ago which has been just sitting in the box.  Turns out it isn't exactly the right one but I am trying to make it work.  I was at a bike retailer locally and the guy working there was so nice and genuinely helpful that I wanted to buy something from the shop.  So while I was there I was thinking what could I buy and I thought, heck I could buy the battery here and won't have to ship it.  So he looked it up in his computer and I spent too much money on a brand new Yuasa AGM battery and acid.  Turns out it is a little too tall and the posts are top or front mount.  Top mount is tough since it is too tall.  I did get longer hold down bolts.

My seat escapades are for another post.

Dave

[billday]

The battery that Beemer Boneyard sells for the K is also "too tall". They include longer bolts. So you can get along with a battery that's snuggled up to the brain.

Good on you for keeping on! Whenever I think about taking a bike down to the frame, the thought of the wiring harness makes me exhausted.

[Laitch]

. . . I spent too much money on a brand new Yuasa AGM battery and acid.  Turns out it is a little too tall  . . .

Please tell us the battery case height and other dimensions. They might be helpful for others to know.

I bought my moto six years ago and it had a Yuasa battery in it. So far, it's run approximately 60 thousand miles without using a battery tender, just disconnecting it during six months of unheated winter storage.

[FlatSix]

The battery that Beemer Boneyard sells for the K is also "too tall". They include longer bolts. So you can get along with a battery that's snuggled up to the brain.

Good on you for keeping on! Whenever I think about taking a bike down to the frame, the thought of the wiring harness makes me exhausted.

Thanks billday.  The thing with electrical I have found over the years is that if I remove it and mark things or take pictures (better with marking) than I can remember how to put it back together.  In this case it was already apart so I am trying to not only figure what goes where but how to route things.  But yes it is exhausting.  I will get it done a little bit at a time.

Please tell us the battery case height and other dimensions. They might be helpful for others to know.

I bought my moto six years ago and it had a Yuasa battery in it. So far, it's run approximately 60 thousand miles without using a battery tender, just disconnecting it during six months of unheated winter storage.

Laitch I went with the Yuasa YIX30L-BS battery on referral from my friendly moto parts supplier.  I looked up on the Yuasa site and they do have that battery as one of the recommendations for "K" bikes.  I think it will work.  Metric Dimensions:    166mm x 126mm x 175mm

I may try to move things around so as to front mount the cables.  Also wish I had terminals covers but I can buy something for a few buck from the Bay or Amazon I'm sure.

What I failed to mention in the post above is that I have a nice gouge on the side of my head from hitting the handlebar ends which are currently exposed.  I should put a tennis ball or something on there to keep from doing it again.  But my head is pretty solid 

[billday]

Is the handlebar end OK?

[FlatSix]

Is the handlebar end OK?

HA!  billday your post did have me concerned.  So I went out and cleaned all the blood off of it and all appears good!  Whew!

[FlatSix]

Worked on routing and connecting electrical things.  I do think I have most everything connected that I can, and secured in the correct location.  Still haven't connected the handlebar switches and such on the front end.  I was wondering what this is, the small black plug.  Looks like a choke plug or high altitude or something and I have looked thru what I have but not sure what to do with it...hey, now!

Also, looking for a good used set of side/battery covers.  Most of what I find have broken tabs or too pricey.  I can buy new, which I might if need be.

[Martin]

You can plastic weld on new tabs or get a professional to do it. If you do it yourself you need to know what sort of plastic you are welding in order to use the correct filler rod.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

If it's the pin at the rear that goes into the tail cowl, it can be easily repaired with a 2-56 x 1 round head machine screw w/nut and a bit of thin tubing.  I've done three of them so far.

[volador]

Looks like a choke plug or high altitude or something and I have looked thru what I have but not sure what to do with it...hey, now!

Also, looking for a good used set of side/battery covers.  Most of what I find have broken tabs or too pricey.  I can buy new, which I might if need be.

That is high altitude plug
Sent a PM

[FlatSix]

Thanks for the info on the plug guys.  I am feeling more confident about the electrical at this point.

Put the exhaust on and looking good.  I only took a picture of the pipes pre-muffler.  Getting four pipes to line up in the four holes in the exhaust was pretty amusing but it all managed to come together with minimum cursing.

I repainted the muffler heat shield but I don't like the looks of it at all.  Back to the drawing board with it I think.

That's all for now. 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Oh man, those header pipes are going to break your heart. 

[caveman]

At the risk of sounding like a ass because you seem to know your way around a machine; I think it best to run the exhaust through a couple of heat cycles before torquing down the clamps. I think it helps with vibration caused by tension in the exhaust.

[FlatSix]

Oh man, those header pipes are going to break your heart. 

No doubt. But I really couldn’t put them back on the bike in the condition they were in.

At the risk of sounding like a ass because you seem to know your way around a machine; I think it best to run the exhaust through a couple of heat cycles before torquing down the clamps. I think it helps with vibration caused by tension in the exhaust.

No problem it’s good advice. I usually recheck everything I can after running the bike thru a few.  I am conscious of vibration issues so anything I can do to address that is welcome.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Those header pipes look so-o-o good. 

Have you looked at plating them?  Chromed stainless is suddenly very hot in the yacht fitting business, and is claimed to hold up very well in hot saltwater environments where even stainless will rust.  The parts I have seen are stunning. 

I'm not positive about this, but have heard that hot rod guys plate their pipes a second time after they blue and the second plating doesn't discolor.  Being all buffed up now, you have done the expensive part of getting them plated.

[FlatSix]

Those header pipes look so-o-o good. 

Have you looked at plating them?  Chromed stainless is suddenly very hot in the yacht fitting business, and is claimed to hold up very well in hot saltwater environments where even stainless will rust.  The parts I have seen are stunning. 

I'm not positive about this, but have heard that hot rod guys plate their pipes a second time after they blue and the second plating doesn't discolor.  Being all buffed up now, you have done the expensive part of getting them plated.

My powder coating guy does Cerakote and was talking it up last time I was there. I haven’t been able to get back over there and ask him about how that would hold up on an exhaust and what colors are available. I did think about it after my diy job on the exhaust shield. Not sure if he does chrome stainless so I might have to find a place. Good news is I have time :)