What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[Chaos]

key froze in the Ural's ignition, left it there figuring nobody would steal the stupid thing in 10F weather.  Or that they could start it since the electric starter went belly up.  If they could figure out the combination of kicks, choke, throttle, parking brake and reverse they deserve it!  The beemer sat warm and cozy back home, it's content not to be bothered until that first balmy day.

[DavidATL]

"loud valves save lives"   HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Looks right at home in the snow. :-)

[The Mighty Gryphon]

"loud valves save lives"   HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

LOL!  Saw that too.

[K75RT Keith]

Working on post crash damage.  Sent the new fairing out for paint.  Took apart broken top box.  Still have to remove and replace the bent handle bars.   

[The Mighty Gryphon]

It appears that you are dealing with a gross overfueling situation here. 

You have looked at almost everything on the engine with the exception of the engine control unit(ECU) and the signal to the injectors.  The fact that your engine is drowning in fuel indicates that the fuel pump is working.  If there is a problem with the fuel pump relay, it is that it is stuck ON and the pump is running all the time the ignition is on. 

Before you start trying to swap relays, open the tank, and while listening closely inside the tank, turn on the ignition.  There should be NO NOISE from the fuel pump.  With the transmission in neutral or while holding the clutch lever in, push the starter button briefly, just enough to bump the starter motor.  You should be able to hear the pump run for a second or so and then stop.  If this is the case, your fuel pump and relay are probably okay.  Don't mess with them anymore.

Next, make sure the headlight switch is turned on.  With the transmission in neutral, the clutch pulled in, and a fully charged battery, turn on the ignition and push the start button.  The headlight should go out while the starter motor is running.  If it doesn't, there is a problem with the load shed relay.  If it does go out, the relay is okay.  Don't fuck with it.

For now, these are the only tests you should be doing.  Focus on just these tests.  DO NOT BE DISTRACTED!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

DO NOT READ THIS UNTIL YOU HAVE CHECKED AND CONFIRMED THAT THE STUFF IN THE PREVIOUS POST ARE WORKING PROPERLY!!!

It is possible that the injectors are open all the time.  They are powered by 9 volts from the ECU.  The switching for them is unusual in that the 9 volts is applied to them all the time the ignition is turned on, and they are actuated by the other terminal being grounded by the ECU. 

The way to check them is to pull off the injector connectors, turn on the ignition and check for 9 volts on one of the terminals.  Turn off the ignition, and check the resistance between the other terminal in that injector connector and ground.  If the resistance is low, there is a problem in the injector wiring or the injector control circuit in the ECU. 

Unplug the big connector on the ECU and check the resistance again, if the resistance to ground is still low you have a wire problem.  Check the injector cable for a spot with rubbed off insulation allowing the wire to short to ground.  If the resistance is high, the cable is okay. 

The next test is to put your meter on DC Volts and put the probes on the terminals of one of the injector connectors.  While the probes are connected have a helper turn on the ignition.  The voltage should be 0.0 volts or very close to it.  If it is 9v, the injectors will be open all the time and the engine will be flooded.  Your ECU is probably screwed up.

This all you need to do.  FOCUS!!!

[Laitch]

[Martin]

Replaced half the instrument pod glass on a spare pod a couple of years ago due to crazing. A pain in the bum but doable.   A local plastic workshop made up 2 halves and a full glass with markings for $20.00 Au. So I replaced my pod with the repaired one and started grinding out the glass on my original. I'm going to leave the clock glass and set buttons and fit the replacement around them. Slow tedious job but I'm not in a hurry as I'll just use it as a spare.
Regards Martin.

Instrument Glass Replacement..png (33.71 kB . 768x576 - viewed 433 times)

[rdivy725]

So today was teardown and try and figure out lighting issues and speedometer/odometer inop. Pulled the cluster out yesterday, cleaned the 3 pins in the cluster. Took the front fairing off, pulled the tank, did the whole deoxit and Dc4 on all connectors. Pulled all grounds, sanded and cleaned them as well. Left the hazard switch connector disconnected because of corrosion. Put it all back together-the speedo/odometer works! Turn signals do not. They acted up like before-turn on turn signal, all lights illuminate (including both ts cluster bulbs), let off wither switch, they stop. Fiddled with it and the T/S just stop working all together. Now, Headlamp low/high beam and horn(both on left bank switch) do not work. Going to triple chec I plugged it back in (Im sure I did).

Also, went through the box of "extras" the guy I bought it off of, and found what looks like old LED lights and circuitry he had on at one time. I am wondering if he fried the T/S relay (which is not a simple realy, but a "module")

Glad to have the speedo working, but lights are more important.

Lost and confused

[koapono]

Bought a lift-table at harbor freight. They were having a Super Bowl Weekend sale and this went out the door for $299.
It's not the best lift available but it will suit my needs just fine for the number of times I'll be using it.
I did modify the front end of lift. Rather than uses the screw-vice supplied with the table I installed a wheel-chock. Now I can roll on the scoot and hop off to attach straps, as the bike remains upright on its own.
This is one of those: "I should have bought one of these 10 years ago" purchases.

[stokester]

I'm at the early stages of renewal of the rear main seal/o-ring and possibly the clutch on my '93 K75S with approximately 75K.

While having it all apart I will be replacing the fan assembly with one from www.tills.de and probably the fuel pump damper.  I thought the fuel line return was OK yawl

[RobP]

I had Rick Borth at Overseas Speedometer (Austin, TX) swap out the odometer & tripmeter gears in my instrument cluster.   I reinstalled the unit and went for a test ride out here in the beautiful Hill Country.

[stokester]

I had Rick Borth at Overseas Speedometer (Austin, TX) swap out the odometer & tripmeter gears in my instrument cluster.   I reinstalled the unit and went for a test ride out here in the beautiful Hill Country.

And...

[Martin]

Stokester non OEM return lines can crimp over especially in hot weather causing rough running, coughing and spluttering. It can be hard to see because when you move the tank to the rear to inspect the line it uncrimps. I solved the problem by fitting a Unicoil.
Regards Martin.

Unicoil 1.jpg (4.78 kB . 140x105 - viewed 509 times)

[RobP]

And...

Both the odometer and tripmeter worked great!

[szabgab]

After 22 pages on this thread, and if cleaning out this little tank valve works.......


No one bloody mentioned it!

Yeah,  but if you would have tried,  what was recommended to you some 5 pages ago to check for fuel returning,  you would have had that sorted a long time ago.  As I said earlier,  you are in the best position to check the bike,  as you are standing next to it.  For us it is poking in the dark

[stokester]

Stokester non OEM return lines can crimp over especially in hot weather causing rough running, coughing and spluttering. It can be hard to see because when you move the tank to the rear to inspect the line it uncrimps. I solved the problem by fitting a Unicoil.
Regards Martin.

Thanks Martin.
I'll probably go with the OEM formed hose, although expensive it has lasted over 75k miles.

[K1300S]

Took the K13s for a spin, then did the same on the K75.  It was a sunny and 70deg February day in VA.

Followed by a full drive shaft and trans input shaft maintenance on the K1100rs.

Busy MC kind of day!

[szabgab]

Ok. I read on here not to use a resistor plug in these k bikes, as there is already a resister in the lead(?). Motorworks, a bmw place sent me a set of Bosch R0’s. I’m guessing these are resister plugs, hence the ‘R’?.
Perhaps that why it’s not great at starting?


What plugs should I use, if this is the case?


Thanks.


And here are the plugs after the bike ‘breif’  run just now...I’m guessing, too rich?

Yes, they do look rich, however I would not make judgement on these plugs after such a short running. Once you have everything sorted take the bike for a good spin of 20 miles or so and check again.

Also, if you have the wrong plugs, try with the old ones, you still have them?

[Nine80seven]

Overseas for instrument work is the best, IMHO.  Calibration is nice so you can see how fast yer goin, give or take. 

[billday]

Took the K13s for a spin, then did the same on the K75.  It was a sunny and 70deg February day in VA.

Followed by a full drive shaft and trans input shaft maintenance on the K1100rs.

Busy MC kind of day!

Your garage is cleaner than my living room.

[Martin]

Stokester I tried to order a OEM return hose off BMW at the time. I was told none in OZ and if ordered it would be at least 6-8 weeks to get it from the Fatherland. It would have been cheaper and faster to get it from the UK. It took a day  to get the Unicoil.
Regards Martin.

[bocutter Ed]

Surprised no one has sent you to get the fuel stretcher. Solve all your problems ...

[szabgab]

what’s a ‘fuel stretcher’?

Google -  http://www.focusappliedtechnologies.com/fs.html

[szabgab]

Today I finally managed to fit the Chinese barback knock-offs, I have bought from aliexpress. They are a lot cheaper (17USD), however the advertised 35mm hole distance is everything but, so be prepared for some machining, if you go down that route. The handlebars are now some 2-2.5 cm higher and 2 cm closer to me. I also dropped the front fork in the triples by 1 cm. Bike is a lot happier in city traffic, a lot easier to flicker around, most likely as a result of reduced rake and less weight on the raised bars... Either way, I could not be happier, I should have done this back in August, when I have bought the bike...