What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[alabrew]

Installed the Speedo unit on the '85 after odometer repair by Overseas and took her out for a spin with the GPS. Speedo is exactly right. Now I just have to figure out why the new front tire isn't holding air after it had been before vacation...

[Laitch]

Now I just have to figure out why the new front tire isn't holding air after it had been before vacation...

My magical thinking manual always directs me to tighten the valve core before doing anything else in a case like this.

[The Dude]

Mine says spit on the bubble tube first,then deep puddle testing.

[alabrew]

Thanks for the suggestions. I tightened the valve stem and the nut on the outside. Yes, current plan is to put it in a tub a water and look for bubbles.

[BlitzenGruv]

I removed the petrol tank to get to the multi-pin connectors. Douched 'em good with contact cleaner, and the thing still reports no signal from the bottom sensor. I don't care if it runs on all four, the bike ain't leaving the driveway until the computer is happy.
I'd like to check continuity from sensor to computer, but can't seem to find diagrams for the 4v version. Anyone know to what pins the HE sensors connect?

[Martin]

Alabrew you could try dish washing liquid and water mix in a spray bottle.
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

I'd like to check continuity from sensor to computer, but can't seem to find diagrams for the 4v version. Anyone know to what pins the HE sensors connect?

Check out the diagram in the pdf in this post from the Repair Guidance Master List.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7996.msg58795.html#msg58795

[rbm]

I removed the petrol tank to get to the multi-pin connectors. Douched 'em good with contact cleaner, and the thing still reports no signal from the bottom sensor. I don't care if it runs on all four, the bike ain't leaving the driveway until the computer is happy.
I'd like to check continuity from sensor to computer, but can't seem to find diagrams for the 4v version. Anyone know to what pins the HE sensors connect?

K100 4V diagrams. 

HE sensors connections to the Motronic 2.1 ECU are:

• power to both sensors is from pin 29
• ground to both sensors and cable shield is from pin 5
• sensor 1 output is pin 8
• sensor 2 output is pin 26

Have you reset the old 1133 codes?  They don't reset automatically.

[BlitzenGruv]

K100 4V diagrams. 


Have you reset the old 1133 codes?  They don't reset automatically.

Thank you. How does one reset the fault codes?
I just assumed that they reset after starting with no error reported, as with  a car.

[Laitch]

Thank you. How does one reset the fault codes?
I just assumed that they reset after starting with no error reported, as with  a car.

Warner discusses his method in the link I supplied. His method doesn't conform with your assumption.

[K1300S]

Thank you. How does one reset the fault codes?
I just assumed that they reset after starting with no error reported, as with  a car.

None of the cars I know of reset themselves either.  Warning light goes out, but codes are still there until reset manually.

[rbm]

Another treatise on the Motronic fault codes can be found on the K11OG site in the Tech Stickies section:  http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2110  This writeup is similar in content to the Warner article Laitch link you to.


In that text, it states:

NOTE: The Motronic Control Unit only displays 1 fault code at a time (4 digits) even if there are multiple faults. Once the first displayed fault has been recorded, repeat the Ignition OFF, Ignition ON and ground pin #1 for 5 seconds to display the next stored fault code.
Continue resolving faults until "4444" is displayed indicating all faults have been resolved.


NOTE: 1122 and 1133 faults can be spurious in nature. If either of these codes appear and you do NOT suspect a Hall Sensor problem, (In other words, you are NOT diagnosing a no-start condition), crank the engine for a few seconds and the Hall Sensor fault codes should clear. You will have a 4444 code which indicates No Faults Stored.

So, codes remain until the fault is remediated, except for 1122 and 1133 which are spurious and may appear randomly.  Maybe nothing is wrong with your K-bike at all.

[Laitch]

So, codes remain until the fault is remediated, except for 1122 and 1133 which are spurious and may appear randomly.  Maybe nothing is wrong with your K-bike at all.

Both the Warner and the Largiader treatises indicate that the fault codes can be cleared by cutting the power supply. Warner's method is disconnecting the battery for some unspecified time—probably enough time for a cup of coffee and an article in the Economist or Easyriders. Largiader's method is to remove fuse #5 for "some five seconds"—probably equivalent to 4.5 pushups.

[BlitzenGruv]

Tried removing fuse #5, no joy. So, I disconnected the battery while I went shopping. Still getting 1133. Cranked the engine for about ten seconds. Still flashing 1133.
Guess I'll just check the air filter, put the tank back on, put all the plastic back on and ride the thing.
It fires on all four. A spurious code which persists?

[Laitch]

Guess I'll just check the air filter, put the tank back on, put all the plastic back on and ride the thing.

Sometimes letting go is the only way to find peace.

[MIbrick]

New coolant hoses and coolant (Peak Global something-something 50/50 DO NOT ADD WATER!!!!1!!!!!one!!!!!! in a gold jug; they're very serious about you not adding water). Finished up vacuum lines and even the little vacuum caps on the throttle bodies (mine were cracked something awful). Removed the CA emissions crap and capped that nipple on the engine block. Installed Spiegler rear stainless brake line. Flushed, filled, bled and topped off both brake systems.

Discovered the cause of the fuel leak that started this whole exercise. Per Mike's suggestion, I laid out some paper towel, filled the tank with a gallon or so of gas and sloshed it around. Waited for drips to appear, praying desperately there would be none. Alas, there were.  So much for any benefit in being an ordained minister, I guess. The only place I can see it coming from is the sending unit.  Luckily, I already have a new o-ring for that on the way.  I have to wonder, though, why it decided to 'suddenly' give up the ghost.

 :dunno

Oh well, that failed twenty cent part (if you got it anywhere BUT the BMW dealership) has led to all new just about everything at this point.  Oh, and if it weren't for the fuel leak, which led to me doing brake lines, I probably wouldn't have noticed those two fork clamp machine screws backed out. So...silver linings, I guess.

Down side to today's activity:  I lost one of the rubber ECU suspension knobs (under the seat, on the frame).  Anyone have a line on a spare 51161459064 (Max Fiche: 52_1028 - Tool Box, Part #4) that won't cost me a Jackson?

Special thanks to:  Mike from Wixom, the thread starters for those threads that showed up in my search for "I just bled my front brakes and I don't have any brake pressure" (hint: turn the bars to the left and work the brake handle to get the bubbles out) and, as always, the most helpful members of this board.

[Martin]

MIbrick  spray on talc is very good at finding leaks. Clean areas that you suspect of leaking then spray with talc, and depending on what leak you are pursuing either go for a ride, or sit and wait. All will be revealed, and your bike will smell nice.
Regards Martin.

[Martin]

Just spent a pleasant 2.5 hours pampering the Brick. Did an oil and filter change last Friday could not find the gearbox final drive oil anywhere locally I was  told they could order it in. I did a bit of online research and have switched from Valvoline Duragear 75-90W to Castrol Syntrax 75-90W. I don't like switching oils or mixing them and I still had a bit of Valvoline left so I used it in the final drive and used the Castrol in the gearbox. This will give me enough left over so that I will only have to buy a litre of Castrol next time. I did a spline lube front and rear at 140,000 k's and I now have 160,000 K's. So I did a rear only spline lube and switched from Optimol paste to Honda Moly 60. Kept reading the occasional article saying Honda was a better choice. I used to do rear spline lubes  at 30,000 K's this one at 20,000 K's. The Honda lube was a bit of a rip off, the tube was only half full. Splines looked fine very little wear if any. :riding:
Regards Martin.

[K1300S]

My tube of Honda came the same way.

Ok though...even that amount is like a life time supply!

[Laitch]

. . . the tube was only half full.

That's an admirably positive attitude, Martin. :2thumbup: The old Vermont woodsman's proverb applies here, I think. Contents will settle during shipment.

[Martin]

How does grease settle? Must be aerated fizzy grease, and it's gone flat.  :dunno
Regards a puzzled Martin.

[Christopherguzzi]

Took my brick to lunch today, and when I went to return, pushed the starter button, and nothing.  I knew that the broken starter button that had been working up until today would have to be addressed sooner than later.  But it finally stranded me today before I had a chance to come up with a suitable repair.  But the good news is that I found out that you can bump start these bikes.  Wasn't sure given the fuel injection.  Running start, pop the clutch in 3rd gear, the fuel pump kicks in, and vroooooooom!!!

[Martin]

I'm lucky just being able to push mine around the garage, let alone giving it a running start.  :hehehe
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I'm lucky just being able to push mine around the garage, let alone giving it a running start.  :hehehe
Regards Martin.

Same here.  If the starter doesn't spin, I'm walking.

[Laitch]

Must be aerated fizzy grease, and it's gone flat.  :dunno

You win the coconut! Go outside and collect it. Congratulations! :clap: