What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[Laitch]

Replaced bad valve stem.  Ahhh, my mechanical and carpentry talents combine to make a PITA job a 2 beer minor chore

Excellent and helpful post, Chaos!

[TrueAce]

Look at you getting all clever! Neat idea!

[BlitzenGruv]

Now that is sure nuff red neck engineering! Very clever! :clap:

That's just the prototype. Production model will feature a color-matched anodized aluminum tube with chrome clamps.
If I sell them only at dealerships I can charge at least $200.

[thecableguy]

Tried fixing the speedo...

Pulled the cluster, cleaned connectors with DeOxit, dabbed a bit of copper anti-seize on each pin and reassembled. Did the same for the connector under the side cover.

Put it all back together and took a test drive.  Works great so far!!

Best part of the day...

[moto949]

Tested new experimental-size rear tire today. Nice improvement!

Background; I spent the first 1k miles of my new-old 93 K75S on stock bias Metzelers. Then I just had to fit an 18x4.5 rear wheel (that came with an almost new 160/60 18 Pirelli Strada radial).  I did the center/side stand(s) upgrade with all the spacer/grinding hassle but the new look was worth it to me. Not wanting to mix radial with bias, I then fit a front 110/80 18 Pirelli Angel. Honestly, I barely noticed much difference to the previous bias ply tires; maybe a slight ride/steering improvement, plus a different, but certainly not improved, "feel" in the corners. 

Rode these for 3k miles with no issues, then chanced ordering a new rear tire that I'm unaware anyone's tried on a K75 18 inch rear conversion; a 140/70 18. I noticed Bridgestone approves their BT54 radial for a 4.5 inch rim, and this combo matches the height of the stock 130/90 17 better than the 160/60 18, which is certainly shorter.

Okay, first ride with the new 140/70 18; the rear rode so cushy that I actually pulled over to see if it was down 10 or even 15 psi - it wasn't. After I got used to this happy improvement, I tried a few corners and was pleasantly surprised again. I suppose there's something about the way this more rounded profile matches the front (unlike the squat 160/60 which visibly looked flat and very different in profile to the rounded front) that the steering is now much more fluid and the grip feels far more confidence inspiring. It's better at higher speeds and even in parking lots. Apparently the taller profile puts the right amount of rubber on the pavement when leaning. 

So this was a win-win-win. Ride, steering feel, and grip. I can't wait till the front Angel wears out so I can test a front BT54R.

BTW, I ordered the BT54 model 'cause nobody had the touted T30 Bridgestones unless I wanted to order thru Ebay-Japan and pay crazy $$.
Oh, and if you're hoping that by using a narrower tire in a new 18x4.5 conversion you can get away with not upgrading to the K1100 centerstand, no such luck - there's almost no difference in the clearance. The 1100 centerstand you'll need for the conversion will still have to be ground away some.

[TrueAce]

Wait.....is the short version "modify your centerstand so you can use a 140/70/18

[moto949]

Hi.
Not exactly sure what you're asking, but when I originally changed to the 160/60 18 tire on the 18x4.5 rim it of course required not only a k1100 center stand, but some grinding on the left 'foot' and 'leg' to clear the wider tire. Now, once I changed to the 140/70 1 (on the same rim), I thought there would be so much clearance that I'd possibly pass on this new info of a 140 tire on the 18 maybe not needing the 1100 center stand, therefore creating a clever shortcut - but once I mounted the wheel and 140/70 18 on the bike and rolled it off the same 1100 center stand, I saw the clearance difference where the grinding was done compared with the 160 was minimal. In fact, since the center stand legs taper more tightly towards their mounting points, the 140 tire with its taller profile comes even closer to rubbing at a different point on the center stand's inner left leg. In other words, changing your k75 to an 18 inch k1100 rim will require a k1100 center stand and some grinding no matter what tire you use.
 Hope that helps.

[TrueAce]

Little bit clearer now.....thanks :euro

[herseyb]

Got the cheapy plastic welder from Harbor Cheapskate and a router controller..

Did a pretty decent job on the crack in my luggage, all things told.

Reinforced with the metal cloth inside and sealed the top outside... Didn't wind up using any filler rods.

[Martin]

My submersible fuel line yesterday afternoon from South Australia, it took 5 days local price was a $100.00 a Mt S.A price $50.00 a metre including freight. So I decided to replace all the lines all the way back to the regulator. Removed the air cleaner element and gave it a blow out still really clean. I have only ever replaced one in 19 years, and only did that as I had a spare, removed the upper and lower air cleaner housings. Emptied the fuel tank and removed it, I had some doubled sided reflective foam sandwich insulation that I decided to fit to see if it reduces the heat in the tank. Cut and fitted the foam with spray adhesive, where the tunnel in the centre of the tank ran I just used aluminium reflective tape. Tried to get a picture of where to fit the insulation, off the site and the net but I gave up. It was a tight fit on refitting so I probably put some insulation in the wrong place. Replaced the external lines and took the opportunity to replace the "Z" hose as it was staring to show signs of deterioration. On removing the internal lines I found as I suspected that the hose was not rated as submersible, it was SAE 30 R7 and should be SAE 30 R10. This was sold to me by a local bike shop as submersible, the hose had started to delaminate. Replaced the internal lines and have worked out I can get three changes out of a metre. All up job took about 4.5 hours.
Regards Martin.

[Filmcamera]

Started the daunting task of sorting out the wiring loom which is gonna be ongoing I suspect.



Managed to get the FPR back in its proper place



Used zip ties as a temporary measure on the throttle bodies because clearly the PO used the non reusable clamps one time then decided he could do without..



Oh I also discovered the infamous crankcase breather hose is toast as are the fuel hoses.  Time to go shopping at MaxBMW.

Looking at these photos make it very clear to me how totally filthy the bike is - any tips on the best way to make it all nice and shiny?

[Vespa no more]

Wow!
That wiring looms looks interesting.
Lots of fun and games ahead there.
And the filth... there is a school of thought that embraces the patina.
This could be the beginning of an ongoing and, at times, fraught relationship.
Aren't they all?

[Chaos]

Harley forums probably have lots of info on making stuff shiny.  But I ain't gonna go there  :hehehe

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I'm not going to get into any debates over the virtues of patina.  Having spent a few years working on customer's filthy boats and machinery,  I personally prefer to work on my machines when they are nice and clean.

To that end I have found a product that does an amazing job of getting stuff squeaky clean.  It is S100 cycle cleaner and I get it at, you guessed it, the local Hardly Ableson dealer.  The BMW dealers sell an S100 cleaner, but it is a spray foam that works about as well as window cleaner.  What you need is the liquid in the hand pump bottle. 

Armed with the S100, some cheap paint brushes, rags, a sponge and a hose or even better a laundry tub with warm water I can easily do a cleaning job that equals the best any detailer can do.  A bottle of wheel cleaner also comes in handy for getting wheels and really stubborn dirt off. 

First step in any restoration is to remove all the easy stuff like seat, tank, side panels and fairing.  Parts I can take to the tub get a good cleaning and rinse with warm water.  Everything else gets cleaned one section at a time.  Spray the S100 on a small area after you wet it slightly with the hose.  Then work it around with the sponge and brushes for a minute or so followed by a good rinse.  Go over the whole bike a section at a time, and then after it dries go back and hit any areas that still look a bit dirty. 

Not only will it be a lot more pleasant working on a clean bike, but it will look so much better after you clean it that you will be more eager to work on it.  Also when you are looking at really clean parts it's a lot easier to see what kind of condition they're in and figure out what you need to do to restore them if they need it.

[Filmcamera]

Great thanks for the tip, I have already got the body panels pretty good it is just every single part of the bike seems to have years of dust and oil and dirt embedded in it - you are right though, it would be great to work on a clean bike, right now changing a fuse leaves me black from head to foot.

I have it fairly well stripped down for now



I don't have a great big garage to work on the bike like some of you - I got very jealous at some of the photos - but I do have a great view to enjoy when I take a break



I think today's task is going to be stripping an cleaning the brake calipers, they are covered in fork oil...

[The Mighty Gryphon]

That looks like it is ready for a really good preliminary cleaning.  Just make sure that you have all the opening to the engine internals sealed. 

[Laitch]

Oh I also discovered the infamous crankcase breather hose is toast as are the fuel hoses.

Don't forget to buy a new coolant hose and perforated clamp for the fuel rail. :hehehe :laughing-on-ground:  Nomex riding gear would be a good purchase if you intend to follow that path, and a supplemental insurance policy for "final expenses," too.

[Filmcamera]

Yes all hoses are on the list to be ordered - I am pretty certain this bike has not been anywhere near a dealer or 'real' mechanic for 15 years or so (I am no 'real' mechanic btw but I do my best and follow the wise words of the sages at Motobrick.com)  Honestly I think the fact that it sat for two years and needed very minor encouragement to start up again and has been running more or less ok is a real testament to bricks.

[Laitch]

Honestly I think the fact that it sat for two years and needed very minor encouragement to start up again and has been running more or less ok is a real testament to bricks.

I think you were lucky it was degraded in storage or else you might have been blissfully riding around on this bomb.

[Inge K.]

Have you paid money for this????

Do see on the picture of the wiring that the relays is mixed up a bit.
You have two relays for the ABS warning lamp, it should be only one....none of these two is in the correct
socket.
These relays is NC, while all others is NO.

[Laitch]

This could be the beginning of an ongoing and, at times, fraught relationship.
Aren't they all?

Mine has been idyllic except for an hour during my second day of ownership when the bike quit operating completely three miles and 900' below the house.

[Filmcamera]

The ABS system has been completely removed for the moment, I plan to reinstall it at some point.

My knowledge of the electrics of this bike is very limited so I know I will be looking for help to get it sorted.

So far the only issue I have had is that the fan didn't turn on ever, since then it was been wired to be ALWAYS on which I don't like either so I will be adding a manual switch and trying to fix the temp control so it comes on as it is supposed to (which will be a lot since it is pretty hot down here most of the time)

Inge which relays are wrong? Here is a better picture of the relay box as it is



Sadly yes I paid $1250 for the bike and another $2500 to get it legal however vehicles here cost a fortune. I went into the BMW dealer last weekend to ask about spares (they looked at me blankly and said you have a what??) While I was there I sat on a brand new R1200RS which actually felt pretty good and was nice and low - so I casually asked how much it cost.  With a totally straight face the salesman told me $35,000, it is good I didn't have a drink in my mouth or I am sure it would have ended up all over him!

[Laitch]

My knowledge of the electrics of this bike is very limited so I know I will be looking for help to get it sorted.
Sadly yes I paid $1250 for the bike and another $2500 to get it legal however vehicles here cost a fortune.

It is encouraging that your bike could run at the beginning, and it has the potential to be useful and enjoyable with diligence and patience during its restoration.

[Laitch]

If you haven't started a Projects page, now's the time. All these procedures and their progress seem more helpful if compiled into one thread.

[Filmcamera]

There seems to be a large hole where the temp sensor relay is supposed to be....  that might explain why the fan doesn't come on

If you haven't started a Projects page, now's the time. All these procedures and their progress seem more helpful if compiled into one thread.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8992.0.html

I guess that thread will work.