What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[TimTyler]

those are professional superbike motogp pads... not amateur rt ratbike pads...

My bike IS a superbike, goddammitt.

[bizzaro]

Drained and replaced the fork oil.  Man was that shit nasty. Only 4k on it at most. I used Johnny's  bag trick to drain the old oil out. For the refill I used a measuring beaker, and a turkey baster. Worked pretty well over all.  I replaced it with Honda SS-8 10Wt.  Between my new Ram Shox I put on last week, and the refreshed fork oil my bike is transformed.  Took her out for  a very quick 100 miles today and it was GREAT!  Handling is much improved.  I am still not crazy about the"feel" of the Bridgestone T30"s, but they do grip like a M F.  And at the rate I am going, I should be switching them out by mid June or sooner.

Hey Tim, Is that you peg dragging in you avatar fully loaded? Great shot.

[jensk]

Installed new 10w driving lights on the bolts that holds the front fender. Use two 5 cm pieces of stainles tubing as spacers.
Bought an used on/off switch and installed it in the top row of the RT fairing so i can turn the driving lights of at night if they blind oncomming trafic

[TimTyler]

Hey Tim, Is that you peg dragging in you avatar fully loaded? Great shot.

It's my toe.

[jensk]

Changed the alternator cup because one of the fins was broken off. That's why the was a rattle between 1500 rpm and 2000 rpm.
Got a used one from motorworks in UK.
Took the bike out for a ride up to my friend Flemming to see his new calfs - a 250 km roundtrip

On the way home i met a guy on a bike i have never seen before. It was a Calthorpe from 1939 - 500 ccm english ohv twin with belt drive

[NEEDtoRIDE]

finally trying to rehab my '88 k1oors se. new tyres, shinko 712s front and rear from the good reviews of this group. and then tried to pull the old oil filter. Of course it was stuck, tried to drive screwdrivers into it and no luck turning those. back into it tonight after work... Update: Pulled the pan, got the filter off, cleaned it all up, replaced, lubed and yeeehaww!

mike

[billday]

Fork oil change. Did the right hand fork first, first thing I noticed was the fork oil really didn't really need changing. OK. Left hand fork, some DPO's bad thread repair came out with the plug. Off to Autozone, got their version of Helicoil, the included tool basically crumbled on me but I thought I had the coil in OK. Got everything buttoned up, pump the forks, red stuff oozing out of fork number 2. Grrr.

[johnny]

greetings billday...

every 11 hundert i have had... one of the fill plugs was whack... what i did was take rubber tape and put on the plug and then screwed it on in there until i had a air tight and suspension fluid tight fit... not one of them ever leaked again...

after the 2nd one i started taking off the entire spring retainer with a 30mm socket... the 1 hundert may not be the same size... butts taking the whole top off may be an alternative for you...



j o

[billday]

Thanks JO but my problem is on the other end -- the drain -- the one that's famous for getting stripped.

I think the problem is there's a little bit of Helicoil protruding from the hole -- keeping the washer from seating 100%. Will try grinding it off with the dremel. It's just a hassle to have to drain the fork again.

[johnny]

you f-ed then... gonna have to do a proper drill and tap with upsize bolt... id lend you my harbour freight tap kit butts the tap would just break off in there like all the rest did...

j o

[jllphan]

Thanks JO but my problem is on the other end -- the drain -- the one that's famous for getting stripped.

I think the problem is there's a little bit of Helicoil protruding from the hole -- keeping the washer from seating 100%. Will try grinding it off with the dremel. It's just a hassle to have to drain the fork again.

Had the virtually the same thing happen to me a few weeks ago, the previous owner had stripped both of the drain plugs and managed to get them in just tight enough not to leak.  As soon as i decided to do a fork oil change, when i unscrewed the drain plugs some of the threaded screw hole came out with it -- not good.  Went to fastenall to scoop up some M6x6 hex head bolts, rubber gaskets and washers.  The new thread pattern seemed to grip well (with the help of one round of nylon tape around the bolt thread) and the rubber gasket compressed w/ two washers seems to be doing the trick.  All things people tell you not to do, the lazy way, yada yada yada.



I'm sure most would recommend against this, and a drill/tap is likely in my future, but I've gone a few weeks of steady driving w/ no leakage as of yet --- and the street out of my driveway is a true torture test for my suspension and fork drain bolts.  Once the weather is hot as balls down here I'll do it right, just don't want to be sidelined during this amazing weather we're having right now.

[johnny]

greetings...

id getts my affairs in order... 300ml of suspension fluid aints much... butts all at once max lean off camber decreasing radius apex wacking throttle... sliding is riding... yeeeehaaaaaa...

j o

[F14CRAZY]

Can you use a helicoil/thread repair insert for the fork oil drains?

[jllphan]

greetings...

id getts my affairs in order... 300ml of suspension fluid aints much... butts all at once max lean off camber decreasing radius apex wacking throttle... sliding is riding... yeeeehaaaaaa...

j o

help me out Johnny:  if the oem spec on a bolt w/ a very small thread count calls for an extremely low torque setting, than what's the massive alarm w/ using a longer bolt w/ fresh threads and a seal?  If anything, I've improved upon a poor design.  If I wasn't able to get a good bite on the fork drain hole, sure, but it's in there tighter than the oem bolts ever were.

Not trying to sound combative, just looking for knowledge in an area I could use it.  I've put at least 600miles of hard riding on this set up w/ not a drop out of either side.

[johnny]

greetings  jllphan...

$149 living will power of attorney last will and testament...

j o

[jllphan]

Thanks for not being overly technical on your reply. I'll continue to soldier on with my better than oem repair and ride confidently with 600miles of trouble free riding to back up my claim :)

[Laitch]

If anything, I've improved upon a poor design.

It's not clear to me that the design is poor, but it's definitely not foolproof. Using heat, penetrant, and patience while attempting to remove the bolts, using anti-seize when installing them, and torquing them to their specified low values instead of reefing on them are all strategies that might prevent these inconveniences.

[jllphan]

If anything, I've improved upon a poor design.

It's not clear to me that the design is poor, but it's definitely not foolproof. Using heat, penetrant, and patience while attempting to remove the bolts, using anti-seize when installing them, and torquing them to their specified low values instead of reefing on them are all strategies that might prevent these inconveniences.

Your absolutely right Laitch, I misspoke. The PO is the culprit, partially stripping the bolt holes. I was just speaking to my use of longer bolts and a seal to better prevent leakage, but to be fair, only time will tell.

[jllphan]

.

[Laitch]

to be fair, only time will tell.

I agree, and it's useful that these alternative methods get trial, safely.

To belabor this moot point further because it's raining here and I've misplaced my dictionary for my daily meditation— :beatdeadhorse: —will the compression of a rubber seal by a bolt tightened "more than the oem bolts ever were" exert an outward force on the bolt that eventually damages all the threads of an admittedly low thread-count hole and thus allow the bolt to be ejected by fluid compression?

The trial is now underway.

[TimTyler]

if the oem spec on a bolt w/ a very small thread count calls for an extremely low torque setting, than what's the massive alarm w/ using a longer bolt w/ fresh threads and a seal? 

One of my fork drain holes was stripped too when I got the bike. I found that their are more threads in the drain hole than the super-short OEM M6x6 bolt uses so often you can just use a longer bolt.

There's not much worry if the bolt goes too far, even protruding out into the inside of the fork, since there is room there and no movable parts (at least on the Sport fork).

I switched to longer bolts and use Loctite and the tiny OEM aluminum sealing washers and its been fine. I try to drain the fork oil through the M8 hole in the axle area when possible too.

[tsnap]

Well, I picked up the bike Friday evening at 7pm, as the previous owner was storing it for me since Presidents Day.  He is moving soon, so I fetched it.

On the way home I saw an old R90 stalled on I35 out near Olathe KS/Lenexa KS.  about 815pm, I was in a lane thaT i COULD NOT HELP HIM, SO i HONKED, AND HE WAVED AT MY NEW bmw k1100rs bLACK in the trailer.

So I tear into the problem, previous owner had used wrong battery and rubbed hole in ABS line and battery. His wife said he was not spending any more money on the bike, so up for sale it went.. Manufactured 8-93. Title 1994, 48k miles.

 This line is about 14 inches long, and runs from the ABS unit to the coupling on the rear shaft and mates to the black rubber line that runs to the rear caliper.  My brothers say they use a product like this on their old Porsches called "Metric Bubble Thread Tubing" available at auto parts stores.

The battery tested completely flat.  My other brother says, "put it on the charger".

Tested today, still O volts.  So I start my Ford Explorer, and hook it to the jumper cables for about 30 minutes, checking about every 10 minutes, and the voltage slowly climbs, eventually to about 12 volts.

I put it in the bike, gave a shot of starter thru the fairing air inlet, and she starts right up. Yes, fuel pump in nearly empty tank is noisy, added new fuel and it is quieter now.

Bike had been sitting for about a year.  Restarted several times, seems to work fine, fan came on after about 10 minutes running in trailer. Lots of smoke initially fron side stand use, cleared after a few minutes.   :foto:Will check again tomorrow, as I am going for a ride with just front brakes.

The seat is a corbin, no backrest included.  That seat feels very hard.  May rub it with neatsfoot compound, works on old holsters and boots.

The tires appear to be new Michelin Radials, could not see any other tire designation/name/number while it sits in the trailer.

If rain had not moved in, I would be out on it all afternoon today.

Overall, a double yeehaww day for me.

tom :foto: :foto: :foto: :foto: :foto: :foto: :usa2: :usa2: :usa2: :yippee: :yippee: :yippee: :beer: :beer: :beer:

[johnny]

thats tremendous there tsnap... at least your tior rotation is proper... some of my best times were on a black 94 rs 11 hundert...

the herseyb 90 k75c getts new cannaboil suspension fluid...



and a full on valve job and tune up after lubing the sparkplugs with cannabutter...

[bizzaro]

I synced my throttle bodies with my home grown bottle throttle synchronization tool.  I also replaced the the throttle cable which was old, (probably original with 35k on the bike). The adjustment screw was rusted tight to the nipple on the end of the cable.  When I went to take up the throttle lash, after the throttle sync, it got kinked in the throttle housing.  Better to do replace it now, than on the road! I wanted to get the sync done before the hot weather comes in for the Summer.  Much easier to keep the engine at the right temp.  I did try and download photos, (from an iPhone to my photos on a P C.) several times.  Many times :falldown: :dunno and got the same error.........................would not pass site security checks, contact MB administrator...........................ah which one?  I have downloaded other photos to this site in the same way? :dunno2:

Thanks j o! worked that time.  :clap: Hey is the guy work n on the bike just before this related to you??  I have my suspicions :mbird

[johnny]

greetings bizzaro...

try those attachments again... had high security turned on because tim tiorler was trying to upload photos of seafoam and techron and valve shims... i think you are in the clear now...

j o