What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[conybeare]

Very interested to find out how the K75F performs on radials.  Should be much better if the performance improvement on my K1100LT when I switched from bias to radials is any indicator.

Let us know how you like them - I'm about due for a new rear.

[sh00ter]

Installed the CATZ orange fire from hell lights (love them)
Put the LT left-hand switch on the RS in preparation for the upcoming cruise control install.
Added quick release fuel connectors to the 2 fuel tank lines (worth the price of admission, best mod ever)

[mystic red]

Added quick release fuel connectors to the 2 fuel tank lines (worth the price of admission, best mod ever)

Metal or plastic?

[sh00ter]

Metal, w/ chrome finish.  They are fantastic.



When you pop them you only get about 6 drops of fuel  - even under pressure.    Took a bit of planning to get them in just the right place.  I also went ahead and reversed one of them, so as to not accidentally hook the tank up wrong.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html

[mystic red]

I was hoping you were going to say that! Those do look nice but damn, they are proud of them.

[sh00ter]

I was hoping you were going to say that! Those do look nice but damn, they are proud of them.

you're not lying there.  but, for the money it is the mos useful  upgrade to assist in the wrenching dept.

[healthy]

replaced all of my coolant hoses. i bought my replacements when i got my bike but put off installing them because everything was "fine" (small drip from the a small tear i "took care of" with a few zip ties and duct tape.)

well, on wednesday the other end of the same hose opened up and dumped coolant. so the bike was out of commission until this morning.

I also changed the rear tire, from an old but usable metzler to a new bridgestone spitfire. i'm going to give it a couple of hour ride tomorrow and see how it goes once it gets up to temp.

[mystic red]

I also changed the rear tire, from an old but usable metzler to a new bridgestone spitfire. i'm going to give it a couple of hour ride tomorrow and see how it goes once it gets up to temp.

What's the born date on that metzler? Good tread is not good if the tire is more than 3 or 4 years old. I'll climb off my soapbox now.



This tire was born on the 51st week of 2007. Not good when you only have two.

[BillyMac]

Replaced the gaskets on the valve cover(my first bit of 'wrench turning' on the bike) and it seems to have fixed my leak problem. Granted I only got about a 10 min test drive after the fix, but so far so good... got the gasket for the crank case as well so that'll be the next fix. Going to clean out the grime around the spark plugs and replace those while I'm at it.

Just wanted a double-check that I got the correct BOSCH plugs as I notice the part number and gap are different(but within range) of others I've seen recommended:

[mystic red]

Micki does a nice job of loading that now. You trained her well....

[robleyd]

Out with the old, in with the new. And whilst  I was down there, new pads (supplied with the exchange disk assembly), new rear rubber and a new rear brake hose which my local brake shop made for me while I waited - five minutes or so and $37.50! I declined the option of braided stainless steel at around $85.

[Inge K.]

Just wanted a double-check that I got the correct BOSCH plugs as I notice the part number and gap are different(but within range) of others I've seen recommended:

The spark plugs is the correct ones, the part# on the box is Bosch...not BMW.

Inge K.

[georgethegoat]

Got radials (BT023 Front and Avon Azaro rear) installed on a spare set of K1100LT wheels so I can move the wheels from the K75F with the Mac 50s over to the other K75 when I give it a K1100 front end and brakes.  Very interested to find out how the K75F performs on radials.  Should be much better if the performance improvement on my K1100LT when I switched from bias to radials is any indicator.

Also got a new license plate for the K75F today.  When I transferred title on the frame three years ago the gal at the licensing office set it up as a collector vehicle (no annual registration fees) and even though the bike isn't 30 years old as required the computer there accepted it. A couple of months ago I got a love letter from the WA DOL telling me that they were canning my collector vehicle title and sending me a normal one where I have to pay annual registration($53) on the bike.  Oh well, at least I got about three years for free.....

Got this exact same set up about a month ago. The first 50-100 were a little weird because it was such a stark difference from the overdue metzler's i was riding. But now I love them. The bike really feels like it wants to go into turns.

[BillyMac]

The spark plugs is the correct ones, the part# on the box is Bosch...not BMW.

Inge K.

Awesome, thanks, didn't want to foul it up. It was throwing me off because the Bosch X5DCs on Beemer Boneyard's site had a different part number and were 0.6mm. Wasn't sure why my Bosch X5DCs were "off"  :dunno2:

[Inge K.]

I`ll guess the different preadjusted openings is the reason to different part numbers.
BMW specifies 0,6 +0,1mm, so both is within the range....
won`t be any problem to adjust it to the tighter opening if you want.

Inge K.

[Duc750]

What did I do to my motobrick today ..... got that sinking feeling thats what.

Replaced the gear indicator and all was going well until re installing th ABS II unit. The thread for the Master cyl to the unit has died in the unit. Time to hunt around for the tap kit and see if I can repair it enough to tighten up !

Bugger !

[Duc750]

Well for what its worth if you ever have to re tap the threads in your ABS II unit keep in mind they are an incredibly rare pitch and diameter combination!

So after about 5 hours of winding in and out some "spare" loose brake nuts the threads are back in some kind of shape without needing to chase them with a tap, all the swarf has also been painstakingly removed. By loosening all of the lines off and fitting them to the unit first I've got them all back in and I hope never to have to remove the unit again !

So just rear wheel, final drive oil and brake bleeding to go and I have a mobile bike again !  :laugh

[Inge K.]

Well for what its worth if you ever have to re tap the threads in your ABS II unit keep in mind they are an incredibly rare pitch and diameter combination!

M10 x 1,0 , quite common on brake fittings.

Inge K.

[sh00ter]

sync'd the throttle bodies with a shiny new carb-o-matic-er-something

at idle - ain't she a beaut? (it was way outta whack when I first plugged 'er in



Pretty simple hook up process.

[sh00ter]

Finished LED'fying the turn signals and tail/brakes.   Had to reverse the polarity of the wires into the front turn signals (bizarre, but it's backwards from the tail turn signals) in order to get the front LED signals to work (the rears worked no problemo). 

Took the BMU apart and did the wire jumping; in the original box (just ripped out the circuit board and kept the pins for the 5 needed wires).

In the bike, just put the box back on and all done!


The Jumpers

[healthy]

cleaned out my front master cylinder. had a slow persistent leak that i didn't think much of until i found all sorts of little holes in my pants from off spray at speed.

seals looked good, just full with crud. cleaned that stuff up and lets see if that is good enough. It will be nice to not have to actually order anything new.

I also got around to actually wrestling out my crankcase breather hose. Got the new one in after a bit of work. didn't think there was a hole, but i am now pretty sure there was (beyond what i broke while trying to yank the old one out.) seems to run/idle more consistently.

next step is to build up the beer bottle TB syncing tool. i'll try to get the materials at a science surplus store, i'll let you guys know how it goes next weekend.

Step after that is to pull off the rear and asses/lube those splines. (and possibly change this clutch nut o-ring that has seemed to heal since i got her started.)

[ok75]

FINALLY replaced the fork seals and added some awesome looking (and super cheap) Rancho RS1952 fork boots on my 1994 K75S. Also, installed new tires (Bridgestone Spitfires - cheap and long lasting).

Going to buy an Odyssey battery tomorrow.

[RockyMountainRider]

Finished my retrofit from a salvaged '97 K1100LT to an RS.  All new fairings, tank, handlebars, instruments, mirrors, wheels, heated grips, LED's, fork seals, lubricants, etc.  Took it for a ride for the first time - I guess these bikes like to cruise along the highway.  Felt nice.  And now I'm moving and the bike's going up for sale.

[Chaos]

FINALLY replaced the fork seals and added some awesome looking (and super cheap) Rancho RS1952 fork boots on my 1994 K75S. Also, installed new tires (Bridgestone Spitfires - cheap and long lasting).

Going to buy an Odyssey battery tomorrow.

Wish I'd seen those boots before I did my seals.  Hate to pull the forks again but I just might spring $7 for the pair.  Almost as good of a deal as I got on my Spirtfires.  And I just scored an Odyssey cheap on Amazon.   :2thumbup:

[BillyMac]

Changed out the rear tire(WOW! What a difference it made in the ride), detailed the bike(toothbrush in all the nook and crannies), and changed out the old BMW grips for some ProGrip 699's as recommended(and that hairspray trick worked like a charm). During the grip change I noticed a bit of a surprise:



 :loco: I assume these are heated grips? It was the same on the right grip as well with wiring running from each. I tried the switch in the past and got nothing, so I'm guessing they've been disabled or there's some other fault  :dunno Any recommendations on where I should check for the culprit first? I traced the wiring as best I could and didn't really see any disconnections(short of dismantling the console).