This Is The EPIC Soggs 92K75 MAGA Thread

[natalena]

Superior results Soggz!

[Soggz]

Wow that's clean,  I can't even get mine clean with oven cleaner. Did you have any difficulty with the lower triple clamp bolts,  or tips? I will when I eventually get to it.

wire wool and elbow grease.

[Soggz]

Superior results Soggz!

thanks, just got to try and make the pos run now. It’s decided to only fire on one cylinder.Im sure these are great bikes when they run right, but at the moment, it’s just an expensive paper weight!

[daveson]

Trace it back to the cause,  fuel to three cylinders? Spark to three cylinders? Two leads swapped around?

[Soggz]

Trace it back to the cause,  fuel to three cylinders? Spark to three cylinders? Two leads swapped around?

had a quick look yesterday. Plugs spark fine, all plugs are wet. Leads in the right places. Battery is back on charge. I’ll try later, as I’m off to a classic bike show in a couple of hours time.

[daveson]

Overfueling again? Clean the return valve again.
Maybe swap both fuel tanks for one at a bike shop.

[Soggz]

Overfueling again? Clean the return valve again.
Maybe swap both fuel tanks for one at a bike shop.

there are no bike shops around here, and k75 bikes are even rarer!

[Soggz]

Anyway... Degreased and oiled cables today, not that you can see, but throttle opens and snaps shut nicely now. Before, the TPS didn’t ‘click’ for the shutting position very well, but fine now.Also, started thinking about making one good front light cowl from 2 bad ones. Shouldn’t be too difficult. Fibreglass work, filling and spraying.

[Soggz]

Installed the Reynolds Rack, purchased right here on MB shop-o-rama.
Take away: The rear bolts are a pain, as the spacing to install is very tight and mounting a Z-bracket means making custom length bolts. I only wanted 1 sidecase, so it was only a 2 day job. Super heavy duty once installed, and I would not hesitate to belt the baby seat carrier to it and run errands at highway speeds.

Seriously considering a smoke array for the horrible tailgater's here, 4 on each side would do. I also have a small metal tube to deploy a phosphorous flare spread that could cover about 2 lanes, not much, but attention getting. Has anyone done this mod without cutting the rear loop, or interfering with the rear gunner swivel?

lol. Very ‘Bond’...

[stokester]

In a word, Maintenance. 

My RT has over 92,000 miles on it.  The previous owner took good care of it, and I have as well.  Splines looked new when I got the bike, and they still do.

That's the word.  I've got 75K on my '93 K75S, purchased with about 40K on it.  The importance of this maintenance was unknown to me at the time, being an Airhead guy I was just concerned about clutch splines.  Fortunately the PO had it done at least once as documented in the Haynes manual he gave me and I do it every rear tire change using either Honda Moly 60 or Guard Dog.

[daveson]

Is that 75,000 Kays or 75,000 miles?

[daveson]

I've got 75K on my K75, and that's Kays to boot,  which means less mileage.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I've got 75K on my K75, and that's Kays to boot,  which means less mileage.

Shoot!  That bike ain't even broke in yet.

[stokester]

Is that 75,000 Kays or 75,000 miles?

That's 75,000 miles.

[K1300S]

LOL!  ain't bricks great?

[daveson]

Soggz:     "mine aint"

Come on soggz,  your fuel return valve is choked with rust. Actually you have limited access to cleaning from inside too. This bike has incredible access for repairs and you can get your hand inside the tank. Maybe cut that jb weld off.

Do you have swap meets over there? There must be somewhere you can get parts. The bike wrecker near me can sell me any part for a brick,  new or used, except fuel tank caps are only available used from that shop.

[Soggz]

Come on soggz,  your fuel return valve is choked with rust. Actually you have limited access to cleaning from inside too. This bike has incredible access for repairs and you can get your hand inside the tank. Maybe cut that jb weld off.

Do you have swap meets over there? There must be somewhere you can get parts. The bike wrecker near me can sell me any part for a brick,  new or second hand.  The only exception is fuel tank caps are only available used from that shop.

lolBy what I mean today is that I tried to start it and actually start it and it sounded okay rievs were high, around 1,1000. I let it run for around 10 mins. Fan never came on. Changing the ‘choke’ setting from high to low, I noticed from choke start, to midway, not much change. Then from midway to full, 4000 revs, then back Down to halfway, 2000revs, then to closed,1,100 revs. But it didn’t go straight to 1,100, it sort of slowly dropped down to it. Fan still never came on. Pulled the plugs. Sooty,apart from the tips. So too much fuel? Dodgy engine thermo/fan on sensor? I ordered a new one yesterday, to replace it with. See what that does. And no, tbh, no breakers around here and the parts are just stupidly overpriced! The cheapest thing on one of these bloody things, is the rider!

[daveson]

Yeah the return valve was blocked, causing overfueling, you half cleaned it, so it's half running now, so not surprising if it's still running rich.

 At the front of the return valve,  near the top you can feel an opening. You can scratch around there with an Allen key,  then try with something finer.  Try air pressure, maybe water pressure sprayer, clean it well.

You can probably even use a tank from a different bike,  I had a commodore external pump for one of my bikes. Another one had a falcon pump from the previous owner who had a fleet of falcons.

[Soggz]

Be nice to see what I’m ‘ blindly scratching at’ with an Allen key. You got a pic? The search bar dosnt recognise any description I put in of it...

[daveson]

Come on soggz, I like saying that, and I'll say it again too,  come on soggz.

You can't see it but you can feel it with your finger to guide something in to clean it.  It's a small opening so it will test your patience. I'm pretty sure you have patience because you havn't thrown a hammer at it three weeks ago.

[Soggz]

So as it’s a ‘valve’, I’m imagining like one one a push bike, sort of valve, it could be not opening fully?
I’ll have to take it out and look properly.

[daveson]

Mine was easy to remove and clean,  I don't remember if it was spring loaded. My memory of it was like a PCV valve.

By the way I don't think your being nice to your bike,  deliberately trying to overheat it, and high revs, and choke on, maybe adding to running rich. Come on soggz, be nice to your ride and she will be nice to you.

[K1300S]

Mine was easy to remove and clean,  I don't remember if it was spring loaded. My memory of it was like a PCV valve.

By the way I don't think your being nice to your bike,  deliberately trying to overheat it, and high revs, and choke on, maybe adding to running rich. Come on soggz, be nice to your ride and she will be nice to you.

the "Fuel return valve" you may be referring to is called a "Fuel Pressure Regulator".  test it using a fuel pressure gauge.  you can't clean it by sticking anthing in it.  replace if bad.  (and if it "needed" cleaning, whatever crap was in it had to have gotten through the fuel filter in the tank and the crap would be in the injectors too.)

the "choke" does not enrich the mixture.  all it does is open the throttles to raise the idle. 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Soggz,  As a test, take the fuel return line off the spigot on the tank.  You might need to block the spigot off with a piece of hose and a plug to stop the fuel from running out.

Get a couple feet of fuel line, (it doesn't have to be the fancy stuff, even cheap PVC tubing will work) and add it to the return line.  Stick the end of the return line in the filler opening and try running the engine.  That will bypass the check valve in the return spigot and give you an indication if that is the problem.  If indeed the valve is the problem, the engine should run better with this setup.  That will tell you that the valve is the problem.  Re: the valve, I see they are $8.62 here in the U.S.

Marshall, early model tanks had a check valve in the return line spigot to prevent fuel from siphoning out of the tank when the fuel return line was disconnected.  I guess the internal plumbing of the tank was changed on later tanks so the check valve wasn't needed.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Soggz, I don't have the time to review the epic thread relating to your earlier efforts, but were you the one with the cutoff return line inside the tank? 

I also think that you should perhaps start a new thread about this problem to avoid adding another hundred pages to this thread.