K100 maintenance advice - output shaft

[jetpoweredmonkey]

Already got a new washer on the way thinking I'd lost it!

Here's my poor man's output shaft seal installation jig.  It's a yogurt tub lid, cut out with a circle cutter.  The plastic is .46mm thick, as opposed to the .5mm spec on the factory tool.  Close enough for me.  Now all I need is to drill a hole in a block of wood and mash the seal in while this spacer is taped up to the back of the crankcase.

The new and old seals are dimensionally exactly the same but the design of the seal is different.  Does anyone know why BMW changed the install depth spec?  It seems like the seal is going to be awfully close to rubbing on the back side of the clutch housing.

[ReneZ]

I think there is a change in diameter (IIRC) that the seal almost runs off on, therefore having a reduced pressure on the seal. If you are worried about the rear of the flywheel, why don't you fit the thicker spacer? 1.25 mm instead off the 1mm one?

[jetpoweredmonkey]

I thought about that, I wonder if the 1.25mm washer is made for the revised seal depth...but then again, the book says to replace the washer with whatever thickness was in there to begin with.  I haven't heard anyone else chime in about their seals getting wiped out on the back of the clutch housing, so maybe I shouldn't worry about it!

[jetpoweredmonkey]

Lots of progress this week!  I got my new "stop disk" (thrust washer) from A&S and had a fun time putting the gearbox and rear end back on this weekend, cleaning every part to perfection, lubing and obsessing the whole way.  New clutch cable and cleaned out bearings, ohhh maaaan that is a smooth pull!  Shop therapy.  But holy $H!T, the thrust washer is $23.11, made of plastic!  I swear someone messed up when they entered it in the BMW fiche, and it's supposed to be $2.31.  Oh well...

Unexpected setback - could not get the dang oil filter out.  The wrench just skipped over it.  Took off the sump plate, cleaned out all the old grunge, manhandled the stupid filter out, resealed.  Grrrr.

Tonight I managed to get the tank back on, all of the plugs reconnected, for once everything worked right first try, and although the rear end is still flying with no wheel attached, I had to have a go at starting up.  A few cranks to prime the fuel lines and PURRRR...no more output shaft rattle!  AWESOME!!  She's never sounded so good, I'm sure of it.  AND, I haven't even synched the throttle bodies or checked the valves yet.  That's for tomorrow night.

Unexpected bonus #1 - the EME starter cable kit I put on is SWEET.  The starter cranks 100% faster now!  Totally worth it.

Unexpected bonus #2 - THAT NEW ENGINE SMELL.   :2thumbup:

I'm hoping someone can do a spot check on their bike for me.  I got the exhaust back on and *barely* clearing the sidestand, but it's still not quite right.  I was having trouble before with the stand banging/rattling on the muffler.  I see on the fiche that there are four washers, one for each bolt that holds the centerstand bracket to the bottom of the gearbox.  I have no washers at all.  It looks like they are supposed to be between the gearbox and the bracket rather than under the bolt heads.  That would probably give me my missing clearance.  Could someone verify that these are on your bike?

[frankenduck]

Too late for you but if your oil filter wrench is skipping over the flutes on the oil filter what I've found works to get a good purchase on the oil filer is to put some steel wool in the oil filter wrench and then pound it onto the oil filter.

[Niemand]

Looking good, jpm.  And thanks for the info on the spendy plastic washer.  That is one piece I accidentally left off the shopping list for my planned clutch inspection, seal and o-ring replacement.  It looks to be the same part numbers and thickness options for the 1100 models too.  I suppose I will just wait to measure the existing one since the price isn't conducive to just ordering both to be safe.

Enjoy the wrenching.

[rbm]

Does anyone know why BMW changed the install depth spec?

I understood it was to have the new seal's wiper contact a new area on the shaft, as there was the possibility that the area swept by the old seal may be worn (allowing oil leakage).

[jetpoweredmonkey]

Good input guys, thanks.

Got her all back together and rode to work yesterday.  Man, what a difference!  I think that broken thrust washer was really putting some sand in the vaseline.  The bike had a pretty unpleasant band of vibes at 60-65.  Luckily it was smooth at my normal 80mph cruising speed.  Now it's smooth everywhere!  The mirrors are crystal clear at all speeds and really no vibes at all in the bars.  I think I have a good one.

I replaced the o-rings on the throttle body air bypass screws and put the screws back where they were.  I wish I'd checked the balance before I took the bike apart, just to see if it made much difference.  They needed very little adjustment to be in sync.

I had new tires mounted while I waited and ogled new bikes at A&S (actually, I'm always more excited to see what's in the used section!).  Stared at an R1100S for a little while.  I bet it's fun, but I like my K.  Tires are Michelin Pilot Activ in the OEM sizes, it's hard to compare them to the old, cracked Dunlops they replaced...1000% better, of course.

Rebuilt forks, slick clutch, way nicer gearchange thanks to those clean splines...she feels like new again.  I swear I can't feel a single bump through the forks, it's amazing what an oil change can do.  Can't wait to see if I picked up any MPG benefit with the cleaned injectors.

Before the tear-down, the handlebar was really mushy in its mounts.  I took things apart and compared them to the fiche, and found that there was supposed to be a washer on top of the upper rubber mount (under the handlebar clamp), mine were missing.  Maybe someone took them out to try to tame some vibes, maybe the factory forgot.  I bought new ones and the bars are so much more solid, no flex, much nicer steering response and the vibration is less than before, if anything.

I flushed the brake fluid but could not get more than a few drops out of the rear caliper.  I played around with it for a while only to discover that the dealer-installed reservoir update (mounted behind the side cover) was done wrong.  The reservoir has two outlets, one is blocked, the other isn't.  The feed hose to the master cylinder was connected to the blocked outlet!  Whoops.  Fixed that and had the brake bled in two minutes.  If you want it done right...