The Rusty Brick - '92 K100RS

[MaraudeRS]

Ha - just had a set of those ship today.  They will be here end of next week so I will let you know if I have the same issue.  Meanwhile I am struggling with knowing that all three discs are below minimum width (3.1 - 3.3 mm) but not having a handy $700 to replace them for EBC discs - anyone know any cheaper options?

Yes, please let me know your findings. I thought it may have had something to do with powder coating the calipers but any dimension that would have effected the pad were not changed.

In my search for a new rear disk I was unable to find a less costly option than the ebc. I ended up finding one on eBay that a guy bought a duplicate of by mistake so I got it at a bit of a discount.

TMG swears by them. If I could get them in OZ I was considering them for my next change. However they are a different model pad, but apparently according to TMG his are easy on rotors and cheap as chips.
Regards Martin.

Yes, TMG was the one who recommended them to me in this thread. Hopefully he can shed some light on whether or not he's had to modify them to fit his bike.


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[The Mighty Gryphon]

I have the Volar pads on three bricks.  Yes, I have had to do some fiddling to get them to fit.  Part of the low cost is that they seem to be made with old tooling.  One of the things that happens with stamping dies that punch out parts like the backing plated for these pads is that as they wear out, the parts will grow in size, and holes will get smaller. 

Because of this, I have found that I sometimes need to spend a couple minutes with a file or grinder trimming a few thousandths off an edge to get a pad to fit.  I have had to do this on pads not only for my bikes, but also my automobiles.  Been doing this for at least 25 years, so I have probably gotten used to the pads needing it and it's no big deal to me.  When they go in easy it's kind of like a bonus. 

I figure that 10 minutes taking a little off an edge or two is not a bad trade off for pads that only cost me $6/caliper and will last upwards of three years.  Maybe that isn't a practical trade off for some of us. 

[MaraudeRS]

I have the Volar pads on three bricks.  Yes, I have had to do some fiddling to get them to fit.  Part of the low cost is that they seem to be made with old tooling.  One of the things that happens with stamping dies that punch out parts like the backing plated for these pads is that as they wear out, the parts will grow in size, and holes will get smaller. 

Because of this, I have found that I sometimes need to spend a couple minutes with a file or grinder trimming a few thousandths off an edge to get a pad to fit.  I have had to do this on pads not only for my bikes, but also my automobiles.  Been doing this for at least 25 years, so I have probably gotten used to the pads needing it and it's no big deal to me.  When they go in easy it's kind of like a bonus. 

I figure that 10 minutes taking a little off an edge or two is not a bad trade off for pads that only cost me $6/caliper and will last upwards of three years.  Maybe that isn't a practical trade off for some of us.

That's a perfectly good trade-off for me. I just wanted to be sure that I wasn't sent a couple of wrong pairs. I also wanted to make sure I wasn't compromising the integrity of the pad. 10 minutes is about all it took to make them work, as you said. Thanks for the confirmation.


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[MaraudeRS]

I have a feeling I left the o-rings out of my front calipers but I can find a darn parts fiche for them anywhere! Even the clymer manual only has the single pot calipers for the fronts!


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[bmwpyro]

Here at the supplemental...
it mentions the same for rear as front...

[Filmcamera]

You can buy them at motobins for £1.25 each [size=78%]part no [/size][/size]

23290

[/size]

https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series&bikeref=K100

[MaraudeRS]

Yup, that's what I was afraid of, I left out the o-rings. Grrr! Thanks for the info guys. Two steps forward and one step backwards every time.

The fuel tank is at a metal shop right now getting the hole repaired and the little body mounting tabs removed.


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[MaraudeRS]

Has anyone tried the braided stainless steel hoses from motobins? They're a good price and I only want to replace 4 of them at the moment. Unfortunately, they don't provide a fiche for where each hose goes so I'm having to guess as to which ones are the ones I need. Tia!


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[MaraudeRS]

I couldn't find any info on the motobins lines but during my search I found a post where someone mentioned ordering a set from Rennsportautoparts on eBay. I found their website (because they don't have any K100 lines on eBay) and sent them an email regarding what I need. They just need pictures of the lines and measurements and they can make them for around $20/ea. Score! So if I wanted to do all 6 it would be around $120, which is half the price of Speigler! Thank you Motobrick!!


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[MaraudeRS]

'nuff said


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[John Lang]

I bought SS brake hoses from Motobins for my '87 K75 (no ABS; rear drum). The two lower front hoses attach to the existing downpipe/splitter. I ordered the incorrect top hose (for different handebars than I have) and Motobins exchanged it at no extra charge for shipping. Can recommend.

[MaraudeRS]

Thanks for the info John.


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[MaraudeRS]

I'm trying to drain the coolant but I can't find the drain plug. I feel like an incompetent fool right now. I've scoured the clymer manual, even the supplemental, and the oil/water pump isn't the same as mine. There are two wires that go to the bottom left side of the pump. One is the warning light switch but I don't know what the other is. Here are a couple pics


Is the lower one the drain plug? Even the fiche has a plug there and not a wire.



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[Laitch]

One is the warning light switch but I don't know what the other is.

The lower electrical connection is for a temperature gauge. Bikes without a gauge have the plug. The gauge  can be a tender piece to remove so many brickers just remove the lower coolant hose to drain the radiator and backflush through the block and pump.


With the neglect your bike has experienced, I'd be tempted to remove it just to see what comes from that passage but many apparently don't view that as necessary.

[Filmcamera]

I removed the lower of the two sensors to drain the coolant, worked fine.

[MaraudeRS]

The lower electrical connection is for a temperature gauge. Bikes without a gauge have the plug. The gauge  can be a tender piece to remove so many brickers just remove the lower coolant hose to drain the radiator and backflush through the block and pump.


With the neglect your bike has experienced, I'd be tempted to remove it just to see what comes from that passage but many apparently don't view that as necessary.

I had a feeling. Thank you! I'll take your advice and remove it just to see what comes from the passage.

I removed the lower of the two sensors to drain the coolant, worked fine.

Thank you!


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[MaraudeRS]

Bonus! I removed the plug and drained the coolant. No green goo. The coolant looked good and the plug looks good.
Thanks again guys!


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[Filmcamera]

Flush the system a good fews times before refilling with coolant mix.  I also found that my hoses were 'crunchy' when squeezed.  So I squeezed a lot and tons of gunk came out, there again it was obvious the PO had been using regular tap water not distilled.  After lots of flushing and squeezing I filled it with a 60/40 mix of water and coolant and she runs great.

[MaraudeRS]

Will do. Thank you!


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[MaraudeRS]

Good call on flushing out the system really well, Filmcamera. I removed the reserve coolant tank and found this inside yummy! Got that cleaned out and it's ready for fresh mix.

I also got a little something in the mail today woohoo!

Here's what it looks like compared to the Showa that was on there Big difference!

So at this point I'm just waiting to get the gas tank back from repair and the new brake lines. Can't wait!


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[Filmcamera]

Nice! Getting close, can't wait for your first ride after all this work.

[MaraudeRS]

Nice! Getting close, can't wait for your first ride after all this work.

Me neither!

I forgot, I still need to replace the transmission fluid, also. At least the list is getting shorter ;)


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[The Dude]

Are my eyes fooling me or is the new nice looking shock shorter?

[MaraudeRS]

I believe it is a smidge shorter. My wanted to stick with the stock height so I'll have to measure them both to see the difference. I might have to lower the front a bit, which I don't mind doing


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[MaraudeRS]

The neutral light doesn't come on when in neutral. Is that a common problem? Could it simply be the light bulb in the cluster or might it be something else?


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