My oil is actually slimy sludge K75 - Water eek what next?

[bluebossa]

So - I picked my K75 from the shop up yesterday and rode it 8 miles home.

It was getting late and England were playing Columbia on TV, so I nipped out and I checked Oil level window and couldn't see any level - I tried to top up but still couldn't see any level appear and it was getting dark - hey ho, wait till the morning.

When on the drive it seemed like it had very low/non existent coolant, Off to the shops and I topped up with Anti Freeze and Distilled 60/40 - eek it took 3 litres, so it was bone dry? How the hell did it run home?? Garage had run the Bike for 2 hours as they had replaced Fuel Pump...

Next I thought I'd change Oil so undid the Sump and Eek - a Gloopy mess promptly swamped my Drive... Grrrr
Now frustrated and depressed after a 1 year restoration I guess it's a Gasket of some sort or is the Engine shot?

What next - pics attached, thanks in advance...
 :musicboohoo:

[Scott_]

The only 4 ways I can think of:
Both seals bad in the water pump, though the oil pressure would be higher than the water pressure, and more likely to push the oil to the coolant side.
Cracked block.
Cracked head.
Bad head gasket.

Has any work been done on the motor during your restoration?
A head gasket can be replaced easy enough(if you are mechanically inclined), but if it is beyond that, you may find that a good used motor may be more cost effective.

[bluebossa]

The only 4 ways I can think of:
Both seals bad in the water pump, though the oil pressure would be higher than the water pressure, and more likely to push the oil to the coolant side.
Cracked block.
Cracked head.
Bad head gasket.

Has any work been done on the motor during your restoration?
A head gasket can be replaced easy enough(if you are mechanically inclined), but if it is beyond that, you may find that a good used motor may be more cost effective.

Thanks Scott - no, nothing done to Motor during restoration, new paint, electrics and Fuel pump fitted which killed it last week on it's original return home... It was running sweet, seemed to run fine home.
I suspect it's stood around for the last few years, been off the road for the last 12 months with me and guys at the workshop reckoned they had checked levels yesterday, and ran it down the road, so it ate the water on the way home - the 8 miles.

I hope it's the Water/Oil Pump seals, seen a couple of threads on that... and a Video on YouTube for a K1100 - seems like same Pump design.

Motor has 52.5k Miles on the Clock...
Looks like kit is £30 from Motorworks
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=GA&SbCt=BA_15_40_GA_75

I'd hate it to be the Head or Gasket... don't fancy that job

[Chaos]

what was it in the shop for?  having 3 liters of coolant in the oil makes me wonder if someone confused the oil and radiator caps :mbird

[Laitch]

Garage had run the Bike for 2 hours as they had replaced Fuel Pump...

At least you've established that this garage should be avoided.

• They didn't check bike's condition—especially the condition of the oil—before work was started on it.
• According to you, they claim to have found it necessary to run the bike for two hours as part of a fuel pump installation. Two minutes would have been enough.

+1 to Scott's observations.

There could be another source and condition governing this mess though. You haven't indicated that you had analyzed the engine's condition after you bought it; you assert it hadn't been run for years. Nobody knows if that low coolant level was caused by boil-over just prior to its storage and subsequent years of neglect. Depending upon the conditions of its storage, a bike neglected for years could have sludge form in the crankcase caused by significant condensation occurring intermittently within it. Cleaning the sump, flushing the engine with clean oil and running it after a second oil change might be all that is needed, if you're lucky.

Feeling lucky? :yes

[Laitch]

. . . pics attached . . .

What's the labeled capacity of that fluid catch-pan?

[bluebossa]

4 litres

What's the labeled capacity of that fluid catch-pan?

Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

[bluebossa]

It was back in for Fuel issues, stopped running shortly after getting it back.. new fuel pump

Thanks Scott - no, nothing done to Motor during restoration, new paint, electrics and Fuel pump fitted which killed it last week on it's original return home... It was running sweet, seemed to run fine home.
I suspect it's stood around for the last few years, been off the road for the last 12 months with me and guys at the workshop reckoned they had checked levels yesterday, and ran it down the road, so it ate the water on the way home - the 8 miles.

I hope it's the Water/Oil Pump seals, seen a couple of threads on that... and a Video on YouTube for a K1100 - seems like same Pump design.

Motor has 52.5k Miles on the Clock...
Looks like kit is £30 from Motorworks
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=GA&SbCt=BA_15_40_GA_75

I'd hate it to be the Head or Gasket... don't fancy that job

Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

[bluebossa]

I don't think Bike had sat for years... it was on the road in 2016
Just a few months... Been in for paint though since late 2017 so not run for 8/9 months I guess.

I filled up with water and antifreeze this morning...

Garage are Bike restorers and specialists here..

At least you've established that this garage should be avoided.

• They didn't check bike's condition—especially the condition of the oil—before work was started on it.
• According to you, they claim to have found it necessary to run the bike for two hours as part of a fuel pump installation. Two minutes would have been enough.

+1 to Scott's observations.

There could be another source and condition governing this mess though. You haven't indicated that you had analyzed the engine's condition after you bought it; you assert it hadn't been run for years. Nobody knows if that low coolant level was caused by boil-over just prior to its storage and subsequent years of neglect. Depending upon the conditions of its storage, a bike neglected for years could have sludge form in the crankcase caused by significant condensation occurring intermittently within it. Cleaning the sump, flushing the engine with clean oil and running it after a second oil change might be all that is needed, if you're lucky.

Feeling lucky? :yes

Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

[Laitch]

4 litres

In my experience, that bike probably should have been smoking like a crackhead on the way home if a head gasket was involved. It should have overheated on the way, triggering the light in the instrument cluster. There should have been fluid leaks on the surface beneath the pump if it were compromised.

It was back in for Fuel issues, stopped running shortly after getting it back.. new fuel pump

Is this comment in reference to the two-hour run at the garage? The timeline still isn't sensible.

I don't think Bike had sat for years...

Right. You wrote that it stood around for the last few years. Was it running in place? :giggles

Clean the sump and crankcase, do two oil and filter changes, review your coolant change, start it up and see what happens.

[bluebossa]

Yeah, no smoke, white or otherwise on the way home... no major overheating or lights, ran like a good un.

Mate followed me in a car and said he saw quick oil puff on gear change but I pushing 60mph and Hugh revs..
Garage test drove it too and all was well.

Certainly nothing like a head gasket blow.

Garage says they had it running and all pipes got warm, levels fine water and oil and fan was kicking in... So sounds all good before I rode it home..

I think the 3 litres I put in got dumped straight into sumo. Filled up under Tank.
Pipes feel empty again..

When I restarted it gurgled to a halt after 30 seconds..

Would water pump seal failure allow this?

In my experience, that bike probably should have been smoking like a crackhead on the way home. It should have overheated on the way, triggering the light in the instrument cluster. There should have been fluid leaks on the surface beneath the pump if it were compromised. Is this comment in reference to the two-hour run at the garage? The timeline still isn't sensible.Right. You wrote that it stood around for the last few years. Was it running in place? :giggles

Clean the sump and crankcase, do two oil and filter changes, review your coolant change, start it up and see what happens.

Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

[bluebossa]

Nah, I filled both and know which is which!

what was it in the shop for?  having 3 liters of coolant in the oil makes me wonder if someone confused the oil and radiator caps :mbird

Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

[Laitch]

I think the 3 litres I put in got dumped straight into sumo.
Would water pump seal failure allow this?

This is all easy to determine, including your questionable hypotheses. Remove the oil pan, if you haven't already. You'll need to do that anyway to clean up the mess in there. Lift the tank and dump three liters of distilled water into the radiator. If it flows out of the crankcase, you're brilliant.

[bluebossa]

greetings...

its the 4 pin... trust me on this...

fixt the 4 pin... drain all fluids and renew with oe spec... do the engine oil and filter twice...

ride dangerously...

j o

Hey Johnny - what do you mean 4 Pin? Non comprendi?

[Laitch]

its the 4 pin... trust me on this...
fixt the 4 pin... drain all fluids and renew with oe spec... do the engine oil and filter twice...

Hey Johnny - what do you mean 4 Pin? Non comprendi?

When you did all the cleaning of all the connectors of your malfunctioning bike in this thread, it was the connector under the right side of the tank that operates the fuel pump, among other things, so you should be able to find it. In that thread you claimed the problem was discovered to be the ignition switch and that it was resolved. Is this a different bike?

[bluebossa]

When you did all the cleaning of all the connectors of your malfunctioning bike in this thread, it was the connector under the right side of the tank that operates the fuel pump, among other things, so you should be able to find it. In that thread you claimed the problem was discovered to be the ignition switch and that it was resolved. Is this a different bike?

Different bike buddy... Another K75, mates bike had the ignition problems

Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

[Laitch]

Different bike buddy... Another K75, mates bike had the ignition problems

Well, you were there cleaning it buddy, so that should jog your memory about the location of that connector.

[bluebossa]

Well, you were there cleaning it buddy, so that should jog your memory about the location of that connector.

Hmmm, what has a Fuel pump connector got to do with water getting into the Oil?

Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

[bluebossa]

greetings...

you thought it was the fuel pump... you even took it to a dealer to replace your fuel pump... it was the 4 pin and still is... the dealer has everything f-ed up...

so fixt the 4 pin and clean up their fluid mess... do it now... or take it back to the dealer that f-ed all up...

tell them ideling a brick for 2 hours with no coolant is brilliant... they deserve a wanker award... you gotts wankers over there donts ya...

j o

Greetings Johnny

Thanks for the input... I didn't know it was the fuel pump... Garage diagnosed that.. it conked shortly after coming back and filling with fuel..

They had an Electrician check everything out and landed on Fuel pump... I haven't got a workshop or garage or even tools here so am using a reputable Bike garage to get it running.

Can you spare the time to explain what the four pin has to do with the water and oil mess?

What else does the four pin control and why would cause it lose all its coolant?

Just do not understand how they are related...

Apologies for my ignorance here, just want to understand the diagnoses you give...

Thank you for patience and always responding I value your and other forum users input very much.... I am very much a learner when it comes to K ownership

Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Let me take a whack at this:

Shop gets non-running bike.  No fuel pressure and pump isn't running because the infamous four pin connector is loose.  Mechanic pulls tank and replaces fuel pump.  Re-installs tank and connects four pin connector.  Connector now powers pump.  Starts engine and idles for 2(YIKES!!!) hours.  Exhaust pipes and head get dull red.  Head warps.  Coolant gets into oil returns from head.  Oil/coolant sludge too thick to show in oil sight glass.

[bluebossa]

Let me take a whack at this:

Shop gets non-running bike.  No fuel pressure and pump isn't running because the infamous four pin connector is loose.  Mechanic pulls tank and replaces fuel pump.  Re-installs tank and connects four pin connector.  Connector now powers pump.  Starts engine and idles for 2(YIKES!!!) hours.  Exhaust pipes and head get dull red.  Head warps.  Coolant gets into oil returns from head.  Oil/coolant sludge too thick to show in oil sight glass.

Would a K with a full cooling system and a working thermostat and fan - cutting in and out - run in-definitely without any damage?

It was empty this morning... but apparently was full when checked at garage...

[The Mighty Gryphon]

The exhaust system needs airflow to cool it.  A stationary bike has none so the pipes get very hot.  There are photos of bricks with glowing pipes.  Some of that heat will go into the head.  Very bad practice to idle a brick for more than 15 minutes without at least a little airflow.

I would guess that most good shops will put a fan on the engine and exhaust system.  Maybe these guys forgot or figured with the radiator fan they didn't need to.

[bluebossa]

Makes sense, so you're synopsis is Warped head? Sh1t means replacement Engine..

I was hoping water oil pump seals had blown..

I've asked garage to collect tomorrow and see what they find, they are good guys...

The exhaust system needs airflow to cool it.  A stationary bike has none so the pipes get very hot.  There are photos of bricks with glowing pipes.  Some of that heat will go into the head.  Very bad practice to idle a brick for more than 15 minutes without at least a little airflow.

I would guess that most good shops will put a fan on the engine and exhaust system.  Maybe these guys forgot or figured with the radiator fan they didn't need to.

Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk

[Laitch]

Hmmm, what has a Fuel pump connector got to do with water getting into the Oil?

You'd need to ask johnny about that. I was just responding in English to your query in Italian.  :yes

[johnny]

greetings...

the mighty gryphoon eloquently answered that question...

j o