Replacing the Roller Bobbins on Front Floating Disks

[Scott_]

As far as the tinny rattle goes, you might double check the torque on the exhaust header stud nuts. Not uncommon for them to be able to loosen over time.  More often than not, the stud is working it's way out of the head, as the nuts themselves are a locking type nut.
Also check to make sure that your rubber bump stop for the side/center stand is not gone.
There is also the small plate on the left side below the transmission shift lever, I call it a "toe heat shield", see if it is loose or touching the exhaust below it.

[beemrdon]

Thanks for those suggestions Scott.

[alexis291]

Well my bobbins are due for replacement judging by the rattling and movement of the disk so I've been reading frankenduck's excellent post at


http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,1132.msg4745.html#msg4745


but I'm confused...


My bike is a 1995 K1100RS with ABS2 but it is currently set up like a non-ABS model. It has the 34 11 2 310 995 bobbins with the snap rings (3 per disk), which according to all the parts diagrams is non-ABS spec.


My guess is that these are an anti-rattle device, to locate the disk and it doesn't do any harm to have them fitted but I'm curious as to whether anyone else's bike is the same (ie ABS with the snap ring bobbins) ?

[Scott_]

As far as I know, the 1100's with 4pot brake calipers(early abs1 or late abs2) all use these bobbins.
3 spring type and 9 non-spring type per rotor(1 on each side) total of 12 per side.
The only thing that I know of that is ABS specific(verses a non-abs bike) is the sensor tooth ring that mounts to the left side carrier.

I have noticed that both Realoem and Max's missed the spring bobbin listing in the individual part breakdown for the ABS diagram. If you read further details of the item #3 it only says qty 9 required-----but since you have to have 12 total per side you do need 3 of the spring type per side.

[alexis291]

Thanks for the reply Scott.
My plan is to rebuild the brakes as they are, with the 3 spring bobbins per disk, and 9 standard. I've done 10,000 miles on the bike with that setup, and it seems better engineered in any case.

[alexis291]

So the final update if anybody is interested is that I replaced all of the bobbins with the non-spring versions, using wave washers on the back with new clips. There is very little play in the disks as a result, time will tell if that's going to cause any problems. However, right now the brakes are about the best they've ever been since I fitted braided hoses. Changing the bobbins has also stopped pad knock-off, which had been causing free play in the brake lever.


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[beemuker]

Check where the bottom end of the clutch cable is relative to the muffler.  I can't speak for the 1100, but on the 75 the arm can just touch the top of the muffler and will make a clanking sound like a loose heat shield.  On the 75 you can hear it with the engine off by pulling the clutch all the way in and then letting the lever snap out.  You can hear the arm clank on the muffler.  Take up a couple millimeters on the cable and readjust the clutch pushbolt for the correct freeplay.  That fixed it on my bike.

My K75 clanks. I'd like to adjust mine. Where is the clutch pushbolt. ?

[Laitch]

Where is the clutch pushbolt. ?

[jessezack]

I replaced the roll pins on my 95 rs and none of the old ones had the springs that were mentioned. I put in 12 non-springed ones and it seems to have done the job. Very little play in the disc/carrier interface and no rotational play at all. No rattling now either. I chose to take the front wheel off, then remove the disc to replace the pins. Very easy job, 90 minutes or so start to finish. WAY cheaper than buying new rotors (which otherwise were in fine shape).

[CTDOM!]

This spring I realized that one of mine was missing.. I ordered one and replaced it.  I guess I should have changed them all since my disc definitely "clanks around" a bit.

As it stands now I have a nice new deep black one on there, haha..