The Blue Streak Gets New Clothes

[Shoganai]

Back to the drawing board...

I've identified depth problem and the pin/clip crowding issue. I've mastered using the dremel to route the asymetrical pins. I understand I really need to use the whole spring and nothing else. I now understand nothing stick to nylon but I now must find a product that I can crave and is waterproof.

I wandered the isles of Lowes and choose a board of PVC 'lumber'. I wasn't worried about the non-stick problem because I thought I had solved that thru this process.


Here's a peice I start working with.






















Before I install it for the last time I check the bulb in the new setting.








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[Shoganai]

Now to work on the front TS's.















I had to remove the (-) pin to deal with the deeper bulb base.
(note the access hole I cut to do this)








This wasn't w/o some drama.





I so badly messed up one of those holders I cut one out of the SW mirror to replace it.





So there!





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[Shoganai]

I wanted a way to open the fuel tank w/o having to pull the key out of the ignition so I can up with this.


I found a knob use to lock down some old metal saddle bags and cut the threads off of it.





Then drilled out the rest.








Still too high...





Better.





Glueing it in place using two part puddy epoxy.












It works great!


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[Shoganai]

Ok...back to wiring and stuff.

(L) OEM headlight / (R) HID wiring.







I decided to paint and few things.

These are the PIAA 910's and mounting brackets.









Now sanded, 2 coats of primer and 4 coats of rattle can Hammer Metal.





Steve hooked everything up for me because I was having a hard time understanding how it all went together.





And I painted the windshield to match.











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[Shoganai]

The front after I cleaned up some old wiring.





This is where I mounted the 50W resistors for the rear of the bike.





The relay that the PIAA's will be piped thru.
The wires are too short, so I made all these wires longer so I can mount thr relay under the fuel tank.





HID mounted in main head light.








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[Shoganai]

Remember - I'm posting this in no particular, so bare with me.


The following is the process for wiring and routing the wiring for the GPS and fairing mounted LED.



































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[Shoganai]

Random pics of what the rest of the bike looks like at about that time.














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[Shoganai]

Next...I wanted a way to easily control a few devices so this is what I did.
































































Since that last pic I replaced the (L) lower switch with a Power-let.


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[Shoganai]

Ok, back to the wiring stuff...

Now a disclaimer...I don't have a damn clue how hurd electrons. I struggle with it more than anything else when it comes to bikes.


So keep that in mind...:D

At first I thought I wanted to control the 3000 lumen CREEs independently and I tried to reflect that in this pic.





I was utterly stalled at this point and had to rely on Steve to help wire this system up.


The System:
A. One HID headlight
B. Two CREE LEDS
C. Two HID PIAA 910's
D. GPS
E. Internal tank bag LED light
F. Gerbing heat
G. CPAP charging system
H Oil sight glass LED
I. Tank bag power
J. J&M Motorcycle CB

A fairing mounted LED controlled via a commandeered OEM heated grip switch.


All through the new switch panel and a Eastern Beaver 8 position fuse block.
What gets switched?
What doesn't get switched?
Where and how to snake the wires through the bike?
What can double up?
Where to mount the 3 HID ballests?
Where to mount the 50W resistors?

These pictures cannot capture the angst, trial and error, soldering, cutting, testing, re-cutting, pulling apart, putting together, blown fuses and burnt fingers!


Main lining 24 volts HURTS! :eek1


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[frankenduck]

Jeebus. Your Dremel is dirtier than mine. :yow

[BobZ(IL)]

I really like that gas cap thing!

[Uffda]

Love the spirit of your posts and the ingenuity shown in the pictures.  For a new rider/wrench-wannabe like me, it's sometimes hard to figure out what's going on behind the scenes with various modifications described in posts by other knowledgeable riders.  Your pictures make it clear....even to me.  Thanks for taking the time to document and post.   :2thumbup:

[Shoganai]

Tapping for the running LED lights. (yes, they were soldered and wrapped)




Wires in this pic include, both turn sigs, both horns, temp gauge, speedo, running light, both PIAA's and main headlight





Enter the intrepid, bull-by-the-horns, Git-R-Done, damn the torpedos and awesome husband Steverino.





To mount the PIAA's on the custom brackets I have to drill out the center hole.
















In the center is the relay I re-wired.






:lol3















Eastern Beaver relay mount.




First location of PIAA HID and LED resistor.




What we're doing here using some pre-wired 6 pin connectors so that the fuse block stays on the bike and the switch panel can be removed easily when needed.

































I could not have done what Steve did, or if I could have figured it out it would have taken me 3 months.

He did it in an afternoon.

Thank you dear.



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[Shoganai]

Thank you.
Here's the finished cap.

I really like that gas cap thing!

[Shoganai]

Thank you.
Yes, pics are worth a 1000 words. It's way I don't say much.
If anybody has a question from the pics, I always do my best to answer.

-Gwen

Love the spirit of your posts and the ingenuity shown in the pictures.  For a new rider/wrench-wannabe like me, it's sometimes hard to figure out what's going on behind the scenes with various modifications described in posts by other knowledgeable riders.  Your pictures make it clear....even to me.  Thanks for taking the time to document and post.   :2thumbup:

[Shoganai]

This is how I routed the power feed to the CPAP charging system.








Steve and I tapped the main fuel tank together.





Test placing CREE's and running wires.




I didn't like the first placement of the ballasts because they severly crowded the instraments.

So I cut a small block of aluminum to act as a spacer and attachment point and moved them deeper into the nose of the fairing.


Right side.



Left side.







To feed the wires from the front of the bike to the fairing mounted fuse block I drilled a hole and lined it with tubing.





Little touches.








Time to upgrade these.








I also ordered new grips. (not here yet)


New turn sig.





LED ready for placement in the fairing so that I can flip a switch on my new switch panel and I can see my oil sight glass in low light.

This K1100RS does it's own oil changes, I just change the filter.








Nearly completed wiring.












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[Shoganai]

New gauges for the 1996 K1100RS are no longer available.
This works fine, but it looks bad.

So I made a lens for it.

This is the first time I've ever done anything like this.




Pulled it apart.










Got a free "drop" from Lowes.




I shaped it a dermal then 200 grit followed by 600 grit sandpaper.




Put it back together.




Because the "drop" was 1/16" thicker, it wouldn't close as tightly as I wanted, so I first ran a bead of gel-super glue around it, then nested in a this gasket, then ran another bead of gel-super glue.





All done.





This is the delaminated OEM lens.




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[Shoganai]

That's all for now.

This is how it looks tonight.





Tomorrow, I'm going to rebuild the AUX fuel cell monting system.
And go for a ride on the K1200S to Morton's BMW to pick up some things I ordered.


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[Crapdealerbob]

WOW !!    :mbird

[Shoganai]

Hey, I saw you guy's in the BMW ON last month.  :2thumbup:



Steve bought me this for Christmas.



So I to figure out where I want to mount it.  :yes

WOW !!    :mbird

[Shoganai]

AUX fuel cell mounting system.

This was our first incarnation.



We agreed that the weight was too far back, so is what Steve suggested I do.
(or did today)


First, the reason it was mounted so far aft was that the bottom of the cell is not flat. To adderess this I was a 1"x3" aluminum tube in place of the stacked 1"x1"s.


Steve also suggested the way I put it on the mounting plate.





Test layout.





























More test fit.











































I might have time to finish putting this together tomorrow, not sure.


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[rbm]

Thank you.
Here's the finished cap.

Interesting solution.  Do you leave it in the gas cap permanently?  Or do you remove it when not in use and store it in the bike?  In the first case, I could see it as a security risk.

[Shoganai]

Ok...I couldn't stop with it so I finished the fab work.



































Tomorrow I'll take it apart and begin painting it.

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[Shoganai]

The way I made the key will not allow it to seat deep enough to turn the ignition.
At best they could steal some fuel.
But to answer your question, while riding, it stays there. If I'm done for the day, I pull it.

Interesting solution.  Do you leave it in the gas cap permanently?  Or do you remove it when not in use and store it in the bike?  In the first case, I could see it as a security risk.

[frankenduck]

Gwen:

If you had any real originality then you'd modify the gas cap so that you could open it with a "church key." (Beer opener.)