K75S (1995) Frame, engine and transmission paint

[Ian T]

Hi everyone

Just starting a complete refurb of my K75s and despite about a million searches I think I’m going nuts because I can’t find a definitive answer, if indeed there is one.

My questions are if I may:

Was the frame originally painted Gloss or Satin, I’ve stripped my frame and can’t remember.

Same for the engine and transmission when I give it a good old rub with WD40 it looks gloss but that may must be the shine from the lubricant, also looks a little wrinkly but don’t think it is. So again is it Gloss or Satin.

Being over here in Blighty I don’t think we have access to the usually stated paints in cans like Rustoleum or Duplicolour, but I want to get everything as solvent resistant as I can as I don’t want to be doing it again. So I intend to use either 2K Single stage or Clear over Base. Probably Single stage as it is quicker.

So again have any of you any experience of Single Stage on the above bits and if so did you use Gloss or Satin.

I hope this makes sense and thanks again

Cheers

Ian

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Satin/semi gloss.  Many paint manufacturers make a heavy duty paint specifically for frames and under the hood applications.

[Laitch]

Satin/semi gloss.

All this seems eerily familiar. 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Deja vu all over again. 

[Ian T]

Ha ha
Yes it is familiar because I can’t get an answer. I would not use a rattle can on a bike, why would you. They are crap, thin paint and non solvent proof.

I am trying to establish if anyone has used proper paint and what finish they used to replicate the original.

I do not want to start mucking about with matting agents I just want to do a simple job with a proper 2k paint.

I thought, perhaps wrongly, that someone would have done it.

It seems I am chasing a unicorn so I will not bother anymore.

No offence meant even if my frustrations are showing through.

Cheers

Ian

[The Mighty Gryphon]

With all due respect, I have very successfully used rattle can paint on my frames and engine cases.  I have used it as touchup as well as when doing frame up restorations.

If you apply a good enamel over a properly prepped surface it will last as long as any fancy high end paint, and have the added benefit in that is much easier to repair physical damage.

Proper prep involves degreasing, rust removal, application of rust converter and a self etching primer and final application of several light coats of finish.  If you are really concerned about solvent resistance, use an automotive satin finish engine or frame enamel.

As I mentioned in replying to you in another forum, I have used basic hardware store rattle can enamel with great success.  Going to special 2k formulas gets you into the realm of diminishing returns and much greater expense.


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[Ian T]

Thank you and I sincerely apologise if I have caused any offence, it was not my intention just my frustration.

I do intend to use an automotive 2k single stage paint and an epoxy primer. That was never a concern I just wondered if anyone had used any other 2k approach with good results.

I will use a satin finish and see how it goes.

I think I’ll leave the subject there and I’m sure it will all come out fab.

Does anyone happen to know the RAL code for PINK as it is Barbie season is it not.  Sure it will zing

Cheers

Ian

[Laitch]

Does anyone happen to know the RAL code for PINK as it is Barbie season is it not.  Sure it will zing

My fellow Americans, be forewarned! Contemplation like this is the result of watching too much Bush Barbie on an empty stomach!

[sooprvylyn]

Thank you and I sincerely apologise if I have caused any offence, it was not my intention just my frustration.

I do intend to use an automotive 2k single stage paint and an epoxy primer. That was never a concern I just wondered if anyone had used any other 2k approach with good results.

I will use a satin finish and see how it goes.

IMO both parts are better served to be powder coated.  Powder is much more durable, and heat resistant.  Im not sure how well 2k paint will hold up to the heat from an engine.

[sooprvylyn]

Also, the OEM engine cases may have been anodized, but not entirely sure.