Conventional but unconventional- My k100 build

[jjs1234]

Thanks Johnny will give it a go. The tires 10 years old so no risk there.

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[prtymrty77]

Any updates on the build?

[jjs1234]

I have a bunch of posts I need to do on the teardown. Hopefully will post a couple soon!

[Laitch]

Any updates on the build?

Looks like six photos and four posts within the last 24 hours aren't enough to meet the demand, jjs. :hehehe

[jjs1234]

Random question:

I have an ebay seller who has 2 k1100 forks and was willing to sell (inc shipping) one of them for $150. I wanted to know based on pictures what might need to be replaced? I see bearings and that center spline (where the bearings rest). Can I use my k100 bearings and center-spline in place of these?

Pictures:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeUVM4Qk1KVUdFMHc&usp=sharing


I will post pictures though, of the build. It takes awhile to upload to photobucket. Unless you want me to just post a google-drive link??


Thanks!

[johnny]

greetings...

do you know how to look up the part numbers for the parts that fit your motobrick... and then with that information look up what motobricks that part fits...

its amazing how mamy parts are interchangable not only with k bikes butts r bikes f bikes and many others...

j o

[rbm]

The bearings on the forks will need to go as will the races in your headstock.  The stem (not spline; that's something different) is ratty but serviable.  It looks like it will clean up.  The photos are low resolution so it's hard to tell the condition of the stanchions but they look like they are clean, no pits in the chrome, no oil from worn or blown seals.  Hard to tell if they operate properly from a set of photos.

All the other stuff posted in the photos looks OK.  You're missing the fender and fork brace cover.  He's including the ignition switch, fork brace and union, axle and hardware.  That's a decent price for what's pictured.

[jjs1234]

They were stored outside, and the fork caps (the plastic) on the top were missing...

Thanks Johnny, I took a look. The only thing that is interchangeable is the bearings it looks like...

[jjs1234]

A little teaser today, what I've done.

[jjs1234]

I tell ya, that VHT paint comes out great!

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[jjs1234]

LOTS OF PICTURES HERE. JUST CLICK ON THE LINKS BELOW
Much easier to post links than to upload every-single picture to photobucket. I posted some pictures. The FULL ALBUM can be seen by clicking on the Google Drive Link...

 :clap: :neener: :eek: :riding: :yes :mbird

Continuing from a few posts back before I got sidetracked.

If you have issues following the link- please let me know!

THANKS!

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JAN 30 2016:
TANK OFF


So in this album, I pretty much do an overall evaluation of what needs to be done.

I drain the oil. Its got a green color if I remember (foreshadowing to a failed seal in the OIL/Water Pump). Pictures of under the motorcycle show its extremely dirty. Also the weep hole was draining some form of liquid (Motor-oil, bud didn't know that at the time) and the O-Ring/Seal had failed (it was the O-ring).


Pictures of inside the gas-tank too! The black debris is the remnants of the old pump gasket/anti-vibration dampener.

Overall very dirty.




LINK:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeTUNsQXdpUVFlRTg&usp=sharing


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JAN 31 2016:
TANK INTERNALS DISASSEMBLY:


A continuation of the last post, I was pulling out the internals of the tank. The screen had a hole, and as you can see- the lines were as hard as a rock!





LINK:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeZ19JMXdFQVl1b0k&usp=sharing


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FEB 01 2016:
WATER/OIL PUMP REMOVAL:

Starting the Water-pump removal. Note the dirty- leaking looking part on-top of the timing-chain cover. The coolant was leaking from the corrosion that occurred around the coolant-hoses and the metal. It was happening at the entry-point to the block, where the coolant temp sensor is.

Also the impeller was of the old-design. That needed to be replaced. Also again, the coolant/oil is of a green color.





LINK:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeeWtmeE5GQkZOa2M&usp=sharing


***************************************************

FEB 02 2016:
DISSECTING THE WATER/OIL PUMP:

Some great pictures of the rust, that caused the seal to practically explode...

Lots of rust and corrosion here.

Also you can see the green corrosion as was mentioned above around the coolant-hoses and the metal.

Lots of cleaning too!








LINK:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeUHJsejJRQTdmUHM&usp=sharing


******************************************************

FEB 03 2016:
OIL CHANGE + SPARK PLUGS:

Changing oil and spark plugs. More green colored oil and pictures of the pistons through the spark-plug hole.




LINK:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeWldGdWw2Zl8zcms&usp=sharing


**********************************************************

FEB 06 2016:
FINISHING THE TANK:


Got the new parts in for the gasktank. The rubber vibration damper and the screen. Installed those.





LINK:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BebUFMRko1WWdUOU0&usp=sharing


************************************************************

FEB 07 2016:
CRANKSHAFT:


If I remember correctly, someone was asking me on the k100 forum to open the crankcase cover to check for bent rods. All looks good though!





LINK:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3obtViHR9BeZ01JUHVsV1d5djQ


******************************************************************

FEB 10 2016:
WATER/OIL PUMP REPAIR AND COOLANT HOSE INSTALLATION:


Got the new parts in and installed the water/oil pump. Later on I remove it again to get it powder-coated (which I am waiting for). :eek: :riding:

NOTE: Im told the Pentofrost is the right coolant. The green stuff can cause corrosion- which may have been witnessed as to the leak, or the oil got into the coolant and caused the corrosion...










LINK:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3obtViHR9BeMWY2T2tpRlM2dFE

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FEB 17 2016:
SPLINES AND DISASSEMBLY (THE "REAL" START OF THE REBUILD):


Started dissasebly of the k100. I finally had access to a full garage to work in. Before I had a space no bigger than a bathroom to work on it. Realistically, I wanted to take the whole thing apart- piece by piece and touch/inspect and renew any worn items. I made a conscious decision to paint everything. This is the actual START to that. Everything before was getting it in order. I could of said "she runs- I'm happy with that." But I want more. I dont care if I drop more money on this build and it would of been cheaper to buy a new bike.

Once its finished, truly finished, nothing like it will be on the road. And its not a cafe- nor will it ever be.








LINK:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeSXpvcFVnc1RhS1k&usp=sharing

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FEB 21 2016:
FINAL DRIVE AND SWINGARM REMOVAL:


Dissasembly pt2. Removing the final drive and swingarm. Super Dirty. Anyone know how the back of the gearbox gets so dirty and filled with oil/grease? I didn't see anything leaking (minus the boot). Also got new parts. Mostly for the installation of the MAIN OUTPUT SEAL and O-RING. Also made a nice wooden stand for the engine, which worked really well!











LINK:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9Beck91QU81S0txOTg&usp=sharing


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FEB 24 2016:
CLUTCH PRESSURE ARM REMOVAL:


Removal of the Clutch arm and bearings. Also stripped the Gearbox/Transmission fill plug... That was fun! :clap:






LINK:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeUmI2Y25qNHFZbzA&usp=sharing


**********************************************************************

FEB 26 2016:
SWINGARM BEARINGS:


Removed the swingarm bearings. Had to cut one out, didn't have the correct tools either... :(
Unsure if I can use this grease?







LINK:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeNG1yWDJldU80QkE&usp=sharing


**********************************************************************

FEB 27 2016:
GEARBOX REMOVAL & CLUTCH VIEW:


Removed the Gearbox and got a nice dirty view at the clutch. Leaking O-Ring.









LINK:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeckoxQ2JJR1dYVFk&usp=sharing

[jjs1234]

Another random question:

I was under the impression brake calipers reach 350+ degrees when operating.


If I were to have them powder-coated and baked @ 350, do I need to worry about the rubber/seals in them?


Thanks

[jjs1234]

So I got the K 1100 Forks today, here are some pictures:

240$ total

[jjs1234]

Anything I need to worry about?

[johnny]

greetings...

braille... those forks were assembled by visually impaired...

unless i had a violent shimmy above 120mph... i wouldnt give it another thought...

j o

[jjs1234]

Hey Johnny, what do you mean by this?

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[jjs1234]

Are they good to go? I am going to disassemble to sandblast and paint. They didn't come with races but they're the same size as my K100 and I have those.  Is there an easy way to read grease them?

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[johnny]

greetings...

what i meant was if at 120+mph... when you take your hands off the bars... if there is a violent shimmy... you gotts issues... if not... you are good to go regardless of the braille on the stemm...

j o

[rbm]

jjs,

They look good to go.  The tool marks on the stem won't interfere with the steering, but one would wonder why they're there in the first place; hence JO's remark.  While you have the forks out of the triple tree, test the straightness of the stanchions and ensure their freedom of movement in the down tubes.

You could thoroughly clean the existing ball races and test their freedom of rolling.  If they feel gritty or have flat spots, you're best to replace them, as well as the races in your headset.  If they check out, just repack the races with a good quality GP grease.

You'll want to do something with the key cylinder casting on the upper triple tree.  It's not going to work visually.  You could do what I did and have a machine shop lop off the tower then enlarge the hole to accept the K's ignition switch from the bottom.

[jjs1234]

Thanks Johnny, RBM.
I will use your photos to help me show the shop how to cut it. I'm going to assume I will need a bearing puller to pull the lower bearing off. I'm thinking I should probably replace the oil and seals too...

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[rbm]

No need for a bearing puller.  Just break apart the race to expelled the rollers.  Then take a Dremel cutoff wheel to the race.  Take care not to nick the stem.   Cut most way through it then break it open with a hammer blow on a screwdriver or cold chisel.  The race will fall off.  Clean and simple.

[Scud]

Another random question:

I was under the impression brake calipers reach 350+ degrees when operating.


If I were to have them powder-coated and baked @ 350, do I need to worry about the rubber/seals in them?


Thanks

You can buy rebuild kits with new seals. I'm not sure I would risk powdercoating, because they will sandblast first. You don't want any errant sandblasting in the cylinders.  I used VHT's brake caliper paint and was pleased with the result.

[jjs1234]

No need for a bearing puller.  Just break apart the race to expelled the rollers.  Then take a Dremel cutoff wheel to the race.  Take care not to nick the stem.   Cut most way through it then break it open with a hammer blow on a screwdriver or cold chisel.  The race will fall off.  Clean and simple.

[emoji4] is there a way I can save them? I'm familiar with taking the rollers off the plastic race on the swing arm bearings to grease them. But how do I grease them when they're metal?

More photos of painting :

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[rbm]

is there a way I can save them? I'm familiar with taking the rollers off the plastic race on the swing arm bearings to grease them. But how do I grease them when they're metal?

So, two different choices you have. 

1)  leave the races on the stem and adjuster cap.  Clean them with spirits and / or brake cleaner, and repack them with grease.  Only go this route if you're sure the K1100 races and your K100 bearing sleeves are in great condition and don't need either one to be replaced.  To grease the bearings, pack you hand with grease and push it into the rollers as you rotate them.  Eventually they will fill up.

2) pull all the bearings, upper and lower, and replace them.  This is a one way street and you can't go back.  Buy a new set of replacement bearings, destroy the old ones to get them off if you have to and put on all new parts.

[jjs1234]

So my rim sizes are both 18.

R: 160/60 r18
F: 110/80 r18

Alternate sizes for these rims? I ask because I am having great difficulty finding a dual-sport tire.

I know probably not the right bike, etc. but unless regular tires can handle a 80% Street 20% light dirt id like to get Dual Sport.

Alternates?

R: 150/70 r18
F: 140/80 r18
 
Im looking here to compare: https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=140-80r18-150-70r18