Should I go for the K Bike?

[technostructural]

Hello All,

I am chiming in from Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.

I have been planning a cross country/continent tour in April/May, 2015 for a couple months now. The trip would be leisurely - spanning nearly 3 weeks 38 days, with lots of camping and sight-seeing. My original plan was to do it on a very small displacement engine bike (2008 Honda CBR125r, with modified tragkorbs and rear rack), for a number of reasons, including (but not limited to):

(1) it creates for more of an adventure when you're thumping away on a minimal 125cc honda on secondary roads and camping
(2) it's cheap
(3) I have a 2008 Honda 125cc that has proven itself worthy for such insane adventures
(4) I am a senior law student, and I have been far too responsible for many years, and I have earned the right to do something stupid.
(5) The little cbr125r bikes are actually incredibly reliable and very easy to work on should I need to do some roadside maintnenace

My cousin will be joining me. We have laid out a basic route plan, and started to collect necessary equipment, safety gear and read up on towns and sights to see, etc.

So what does any of this have to do with K bikes?

Well, the other day my uncle said that he would gladly donate his k75 for my journey. :yes

I am not sure of the year, but it has rear drum brakes, and it has been sitting for over a year. Before sitting, it did have the splines lubed, rear tire and suspension replaced. He bought it, had a few bits of work done to it, but only rode it a few hundred kilometres. From my assessment, it will need some cosmetic TLC, but it appears to be mechanically sound. I noticed a tiny paint bubble on the lower gas tank - being aluminum, is it possible that it has corroded somewhat!?

All of this has led me to ask you, the K Bike experts, what I should do. I suppose this could be indirectly answered via the following questions:

(1) what kind of horrible things seem to happen to these bikes from sitting?
(2) what sort of work do you suspect would need to be done to take er' on a big journey like this? (besides routine maintenance)
(3) if I needed repairs thousands of miles from home, are parts readily available? Do many mechanics know how to work on these bikes?

I am fairly mechanically inclined. Despite being a young guy, I have done a lot of maintenance to my '81 Suzuki GS450T. I am prepared to get the wrenches out, but I am on a budget.

Thanks for your thoughts all. Merry Christmas and happy riding.

[johnny]

greetings technostructural...

welcome to motobrick.com...

id empty the gas and fill it full of fresh gas with some stabil in there... start it up and idle it till the radiator fan comes on... then i would ride at around the block or farther if the roads are clear and make sure everything works... if it feels good id put it on a battery tender and put it away till spring...

then id replace all the fluids... all of them... fork brake radiator engine gear box final drive... then i would ride it as much as possible to figger out if the ergos and handling are acceptable before the long ride... if so... good brakes and good rubber and im outta here for a 3 week tour... yeeeeeeehaaaaaaaa...

j o

[Chaos]

If it sat for a year with gas in the tank there could be issues. Drain the old gas out now and put some fresh in with stabil. 

[drut]

Although it may be an age issue I would vastly prefer touring on any K bike rather than a 125,unless their characteristics have changed.I owned an Aprillia AF1 125 for a few years and it was a blast on back roads:superb handling,fast,light and flickable etc. to the point of greatly embarrassing larger bikes.However for covering distance and longer rides minus points:small size(I am 6'1"),need for constant gear changing to suit corners/inclines would put me off.However the first priority is reliability,from what you say after standing the K will need fluids changing but after that it's your call.

[TimTyler]

2008 Honda CBR125r, with modified tragkorbs and rear rack

Well, you certainly won't have to worry about getting any speeding tickets.

But seriously... what Johnny said.

[bocutter Ed]

The trip would be leisurely - spanning nearly 3 weeks, with lots of camping and sight-seeing.

Methinks your concept of leisurely, at 600 odd kilometers a day, would be hard to do on a 125cc.

[F14CRAZY]

Depending on the mileage on the bike I would check all the splines, which could be part of lubing them all (clutch included).

Rumor has it that any BMW car dealer can order you bike parts if you have the part number, if that helps with maintenance along the way. There are plenty of brick fans everywhere that I'm sure would be willing to assist along the way

[Elipten]

Open the gas tank, check the hoses for condition, and touch the rubber support for the fuel pump, they turn to goo with age and the type of fuel available these days.  I would check that paint blister and external fuel hoses.  Also second what Johnny said. Far better trip on the Kbike than a 125 Honda.

[Chaos]

The paint blister is pretty common. Water settles to the lowest corner of the tank and the aluminum corrodes there.  If it starts leaking Permatex gas tank patch or JB weld will take care of it.

[Gio]

Yes you should (go for the K bike) !

I've had mine over in the UK since 2006 (just brought her back to Canada) and so the bike spent most of that time just sitting in a shed. Always started first sniff of the key! Even after a truck /ship/truck journey of several weeks (with no battery tender) - still started first sniff after opening the crate. I have also done a lot of longer distance trips around northern England / Scotland and can assure you that with the possible exception of a 6th gear for the higher speed highway parts of those trips, the K75 is an awesome bike for the job. I get ~50 mpg out of the K75s so it is (relative to the Goose anyway) quite economical.

As said earlier - bubbles on the tank seam are not unusual and my bike has them, but doesn't leak. If you prepped that bike (per other advice) my guess is that for a longer haul trip you may only need an oil/filter change or two  - and those are easy enough.

Parts are readily available (not always the cheapest) and may be able to help you out there as I am in your neck-o-the woods. PM me if you know what you might need as am putting in another order to my supplier early in the new year. I'm just up the road.

+1 on other comments - a 125 is not the right bike for your plans!

Gio

[technostructural]

Thanks everyone for all of your advice, help and support.

I will be going to rescue the bike tomorrow. I'll be taking with me (in addition to riding gear - too optimistic?)

(1) various tools
(2) siphon hose & jug
(3) jerrycan of fresh gas
(4) battery booster pack

While I'm tempted to change the oil right where she lays, it's currently parked in an underground parking garage and I don't have permission to spill oil all over the place; if that happens.

I'm hoping that she'll fire up and I can at least get her back to my garage (~6km) where I will begin the process of making her road ready. Any suggestions or advice? I'll eventually start a new thread and document the process - when that happens I'll post the link to that thread in this one.

I've already picked up an oil filter and some JB Weld "waterweld" that will eventually fix that blister/corrosion on the tank. I'm still on the hunt for a fuel filter, though, and it's turning out to be a bit of a pain. Apparently there are no BMW dealers (for motorcycles) in Nova Scotia; I have to order parts from a dealer in New Brunswick. I might give the car dealerships a ring on Monday to see if the rumours are true.

Anyhow - more to come on a thread in the technical issues project bikes section.

Thanks again all.

[rbm]

For the fuel filter, go to a Napa Auto store and buy a Napa Gold 3032 fuel filter for $5.  Works great and is going to be much cheaper than the OEM.

[technostructural]

For the fuel filter, go to a Napa Auto store and buy a Napa Gold 3032 fuel filter for $5.  Works great and is going to be much cheaper than the OEM.

Thank you! That's very helpful advice.

[Gio]

ts - rather than siphoning, maybe disconnect the fuel-rail on left side whilst on sidestand and see if gravity will do the work (that line goes to filter then pump so am not sure if will free flow or not) - I'm thinking you would get more of the old gas out that way?Alternatively at the return hose from pressure regulator? I would also add a shot of injector cleaner in the fresh gas.

Hope you manage to get her fired up - 6km would be just enough time to warm/stir-up that old oil before changing.

I have the same problem as you re no local dealer so have been getting parts from motorworks in the UK (where bike used to live) ... have another order pending (fork parts, clutch cable, brake lines) if you want to compare pricing / combine an order. They offer both new and used parts. I would be interested to know which dealer in NB so I can look at that alternative also ...

Gio

Edit - on second thoughts, if you have a battery pack I'm wondering if you could use the fuel pump to expel the old gas (at the fuel rail - there would be some pressure ...) and then flush a little clean gas through the same way - others with more experience of the K bike may be able to advise as I have not done this personally.

[technostructural]

ts - rather than siphoning, maybe disconnect the fuel-rail on left side whilst on sidestand and see if gravity will do the work (that line goes to filter then pump so am not sure if will free flow or not) - I'm thinking you would get more of the old gas out that way?Alternatively at the return hose from pressure regulator? I would also add a shot of injector cleaner in the fresh gas.

Hope you manage to get her fired up - 6km would be just enough time to warm/stir-up that old oil before changing.

I have the same problem as you re no local dealer so have been getting parts from motorworks in the UK (where bike used to live) ... have another order pending (fork parts, clutch cable, brake lines) if you want to compare pricing / combine an order. They offer both new and used parts. I would be interested to know which dealer in NB so I can look at that alternative also ...

Gio

Edit - on second thoughts, if you have a battery pack I'm wondering if you could use the fuel pump to expel the old gas (at the fuel rail - there would be some pressure ...) and then flush a little clean gas through the same way - others with more experience of the K bike may be able to advise as I have not done this personally.

Hi Gio.

I was at ProCycle in Dartmouth where I found a K&N Oil Filter for the bike. They told me that they used to deal BMWs, but stopped doing it about 10 years ago. They told me that the nearest BMW parts dealer is "Atlantic Motoplex" in New Brunswick. The website link is:
http://www.atlanticmotoplex.ca/index.htm

I called RPM Cycle in Halifax to see if maybe they had a lead on some parts, and they told me, "We can probably match up whatever you're looking for with what we've got here, but otherwise we'll have to get it from New Brunswick".

With that comment, I figured that this is the place that all of the local shops get their BMW parts.

[rbm]

Not sure about K&N but Fram replacement oil filters have a grip coating that tend to breakdown and cause problems with oil distribution.  Check the K&N that any adhesive paper labels are removed before installation and that it is only painted, not coated like the Fram.

[richarddacat]

BTW,  Fram filters are junk, made with very cheap filter material.
For oil filtration buying the most expensive filter will usually get you better filtering materials.

[johnny]

greetings...

bonerbeemyard... i would getts the kit with filter wrench 6 filters some other stuff... and getts enough crush washers and o rings to do 6 changes... and getts some extra 0 rings for the gear box and finale drive... this way you are good for 6 years for about $60 total...

i have put over 20k on one of these filters without an oil change... just adding mobile 1 20w50 as i motoed... the oil looked like it just come outta the bottle at 20k... good stuff...

j o

[rbm]

Johnny, unfortunately, very expensive option for Canadians (shipping, exchange, import fees).

[johnny]

i know... i getts that canadian weed... the shipping and import fees are killing me...

j o

[kris]

Johnny, you are a pistol, man!! A bona fide California original. I love reading your comments! But I digress!! Back to technostructural...I've heard folk talk of getting some Seafoam product (for cleaning out the fuel system and injectors). I think you can get it a Crappy Tire, Partsource or other suppliers. People say it works wonders. Johnny also mentioned Chevron Techron for cleaning out any cobwebs. Don't know if you have Chevron in NS. Many comments on other sites seem to swear by that stuff. I am currently running some Marvel Mystery Oil (that's it's real name!) through my '99 Sienna that I've had since new. Check out the testimonials on that stuff, too. Supposed to be great. I think I'm feeling a difference in performance...you can buy this stuff at Walmart, at least where I am in Hamilton. Don't think I'd be too concerned about her sitting a year. It's not that long. Johnny, I'm about to join the K1100RS set...pick her up this week...finally. A late 1992 build with just over 30k miles on her...she looks pretty good. Took her for a short spin. Can't get over how smooth and quiet the engine is. It's a bit cool up here now (although no snow). Prudence suggests that I be patient until we go north of freezing and warsh the salt off the roads. Guess I'll just stare at her till then! Oh ya'...get on the damn Beemer for a ride like that. What were you thinking!!

[technostructural]

Thanks everyone for your thoughts.

So, an update - pretty unbelievable - the bike almost fired up on her own steam without any extra help, but the battery was just a little weak. I gave it a boost and it started without any trouble. A good deal of black smoke came out.

I checked in the fuel tank before starting it, and the fuel was noticably old. It had a yellowish tinge to it, but all of the rubber parts seemed to be clean and not disintegrating. The rubber gasket/bottom to the fuel pump hasn't expanded or turned into the "doughnut" that I've heard it often does after sitting.

After letting the bike idle for a bit, here are a few photos of er:







After running for about 10 minutes, I did hear this odd faint knocking sound. It was odd to me, because it wasn't in time with the engine necessarily. I thought that it may be the water pump? Perhaps it is having some trouble moving? The knocking sound was not very fast, maybe once every second or two. Regardless, the bike made it home fine.

The K&N filter (thankfully) seems to be much better than a FRAM. I agree; I would never put a fram filter on anything I own. The K&N filter seems to be alright - it looks like this: http://nzairfilter.co.nz/images/DT/t-17837-KN-163-01.jpg

I don't expect it to be on there long. I will certainly be changing the oil again before setting out on any journey.

Kris - Seafoam is a great idea. I was going to toss some STABIL in there, but I think that Seafoam might help get rid of any crud that has started to clog the injectors that hasn't made itself permanent yet.

Anyway - as I said, I'll be starting a new form in the project bikes section. Stay tuned!

EDIT: I've created the Thread in the project bikes section - check it out here http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=6447.msg43555#msg43555

[kris]

Some nice shots. That bike is a thing of beauty, no doubt. The only caveat re the Seafoam (or any other de-gunking product) is that so much crap may be dislodged that you plug an injector(injectors). Might be worth checking out injector-cleaning/ testing services in your area. Most diesel shops will also check gas injectors. They usually test/clean/re-test and outfit the injectors with new o-rings and sometimes fresh paint (?) if appropriate. There is reference to a guy in the US midwest who does it. I checked a shop just outside of Toronto but I'm sure you wouldn't have to go that far to get the service. If she doesn't run too smoothly after the fluid changes, etc., there is great info on this site re air leak issues through throttle body boots (or whatever they're called) and some kind of 'z' or 's' shaped air-intake pipe. The plastics/ rubbers dry out and cause performance problems. If you pull the injectors be sure to use compressed air to clean out the area around the injectors and be very careful even as you remove them (maybe have a shop vac going while you unscrew them) so stuff doesn't fall in the ports. Best of luck to you...make your uncle an offer!!

[Mongrel]

A bit late on my part, but I've used the Quaker State QS3614 oil filters available in any Canadian Tire for near a decade now and they work just fine. No need to buy pricey ones, nor the crappy Fram ones.

Also, you should stop by here if you go through Toronto! There's a number of us miscreants with K's in town and I know I'd love to see another K rider.

[technostructural]

A bit late on my part, but I've used the Quaker State QS3614 oil filters available in any Canadian Tire for near a decade now and they work just fine. No need to buy pricey ones, nor the crappy Fram ones.

Also, you should stop by here if you go through Toronto! There's a number of us miscreants with K's in town and I know I'd love to see another K rider.

Thanks Mongrel,

You haven't noticed any of the paint coming off? Those quaker state ones are usually painted white, are they not? I've been told to only use filters without a finish (e.g., hiflo, OEM). If you've been using them for 10 years though, I'll certainly take your word for it.

The route is still being determined. As the Canadian dollar drops a bit more each week, I've been considering more and more staying in Canada for a bit longer, potentially as far as Toronto/Windsor. The only trouble there is that it is still pretty cold in April/May, and there may be good reason to head South sooner. I'll keep you posted!