Classic K valve adjusting procedures are well described in several sources here. Here are two useful videos.
There are also several useful text descriptions as links in the
Workshop by members here, and instructions in Clymer, Haynes and BMW workshop manuals. What I show here are the tools
I need to use to get the job done.
1) A drawing of each valve location is used to record measurements and calculate what, if any, shim thickness may be needed to get my final measurement.
2) The valve cup (tappet)/shim compressor hook and the cup hold-down are from Ken at
polepenhollow@yahoo.com and work well at a small fraction of the BMW custom tool cost
3) The four feeler gauges are from my tool roll.
4) The 19 mm end of a combo wrench from my tool roll is used on the flats of the camshaft to rotate the shaft and position the cam lobes for clearance measurement.
5) My tool roll's angled pick is poked through the notch in the cup to lift the shim.
6) My tool roll's extension magnet is used to remove and replace shims.
7) The digital vernier caliper is used to measure each shim because some of the shim's stamped measurement number is usually obscured. Look at the one held by the magnet in the closeup. Is that a 2.25, 2.50 or 2.55? The digital caliper solves that riddle as well as verifying the replacement's measurement.
8) Needle nose pliers are used, when necessary, to help with removal and replacement of shims and to ensure the shim is level with the cup before releasing the hold-down tool.
That's it.
