main seal and o-ring

[yurman]

this may already be out there somewhere,I am replaing the main seal and o-ring on the clutch tomorrow on my K1100rs,is the seal installed dry or grease it,also the o-ring,,thanks

[Rick G]

Some will say a little smear of sealant around the outer of the seal but I just put them in dry and have had no problems if the surfaces are clean. Leave the seal proud of the rear face by 0.5mm, this is to be sure it gets a new surface to run on and not the old surface it used to run on. As for the O ring just a bit oily is the go and make sure you tighten it as per the manual. Tighten to 140Nm then back off till loose and then tighten to 100Nm

[frankenduck]

Is the main seal actually leaking?  Or is it just a dried up clutch nut O-ring?  Once you get the transmission off it's very easy to determine the cause of the leak.

I belong to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school and don't understand why someone would replace a seal that's not actually leaking.

[rbm]

I belong to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school and don't understand why someone would replace a seal that's not actually leaking.

I agree with you in most cases.  One replaces rubber parts after so long because the rubber deteriorates.  We accept this and don't question replacing a rubber part that is still performing. For the main seal, if you're uncertain of when the seal was last replaced (if ever), by replacing it, you set a milestone in the service history of the bike that lets you know a part that can deteriorate has been replaced.  New seals are better designed and built so replacing a very old one that is not leaking brings along the benefits of improved technology.

[yurman]

hexagon nut in the manual says torque-140nm,then re-torque to 50nm,,any idea if this is correct since the memo regarding the new seal position

[Rick G]

hexagon nut in the manual says torque-140nm,then re-torque to 50nm,,any idea if this is correct since the memo regarding the new seal position

The new seal position is ok with that but my BMW factory manual says retighten to 100Nm+14 -10 so check that.

[frankenduck]

BMW's K1100 Repair Manual published in May of 1999 says 140 Nm, loosen, then 50 Nm.

[Rick G]

Well that is very interesting I was going by the K100 factory manual and silly me thinking that just because they are the same that the wise ones at BMW would not have changed things.
I wonder why they did change their minds.

[frankenduck]

When was that one published? I'd go with the most recent one but I'll bet the bike won't fall apart either way.....

[Rick G]

I would go with the later one for sure. I am not sure when it was published but it came from the flyingbrick site recently.
But then who are we, just mere mortals?  how dare we question the BMW gods. :laugh

[Rick G]

i aints gotts no tourque wench and my ch1t aints falled apart...

j o

Do you just keep heaving on the wrench till your elbow goes click or pull it up till it goes loose and then back it off a half turn. :giggles

[DRxBMW]

i aints gotts no tourque wench and my ch1t aints falled apart...

j o

torque is an aquired feel, if it feels snug, it probably is and more.

I ONLY use a torque wrench on critical fasteners.

Some people should simply NEVER pick up a wrench period. Tighter is better, I may as well really hammer it on for good measure. "George the Gorilla" mentality process.

Other than the clutch lever pivot pin nut, nothing has ever fallen off my bricK so far.

lefty loosey, righty tighty LOL

[Inge K.]

X Tightening torques:
1. Tighten hexagon nut .............................. 140 Nm
2. Loosen hexagon nut again
3. Tighten hexagon nut ................................ 50 Nm
4. Tightening angle .......................................... 50 °

The K11 manual also says another 50^o after the 50 Nm.

Inge K.

[Rick G]

Inge to the rescue once again. Thanks all is explained, now if I had bothered to enlarge Ducks picture all would have been revealed then.

[Inge K.]

It has become more common to provide tightening specifications with a specified degree of turning after a given preload, as this will provide a more accurate tensioning than using only a given torque alone.

Inge K.

[frankenduck]

X Tightening torques:
1. Tighten hexagon nut .............................. 140 Nm
2. Loosen hexagon nut again
3. Tighten hexagon nut ................................ 50 Nm
4. Tightening angle .......................................... 50 °

The K11 manual also says another 50^o after the 50 Nm.

Inge K.

Thanks.  I always wondered how that 50 ° was supposed to be interpreted....

[yurman]

I got the torque all set,now the next thing is the lube points on the plate and various contact points,and if honda grease will do,

[conybeare]

Is the main seal actually leaking?  Or is it just a dried up clutch nut O-ring?  Once you get the transmission off it's very easy to determine the cause of the leak.

I belong to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school and don't understand why someone would replace a seal that's not actually leaking.

Duck, how do you determine which it is? I have leak that I can see externally, and was planning to just replace both seals... but if I can tell it's just the clutch nut o-ring I would probably skip the main seal...

[frankenduck]

When you pull it apart you can tell.  If the oil is inside the clutch basket then it's the O-ring.  If it's dribbling down the back of the engine block then it's the main seal.