16 V ignition switch overhaul

[Filmcamera]

I was riding on the highway the other day when the motor just totally died and all electrical power with it.  After coasting to the side of the road and getting a tow truck home I looked into the issue and discovered the ignition switch was dead.

Here is a quick guide as to how to clean and repair a 16 V ignition switch.

Firstly disconnect the ignition switch under the tank -  it is the orange connector in the photo



Secondly remove the dash pad and the two big screws either side of the ignition switch (the ones on my bike did not match but not much does!)



That will make the whole key and ignition unit loose.  To get it out I found the easiest thing to do was to remove a allen bolt on the right hand side of the head stock , it is one of the bolts holding the fairing mount bracket in place.



With that removed and extraneous cabling move to one side put the steering full lock to the right and it is fairly easy to slip the unit out.



You will then have the unit off the bike



To remove the ignition electrics from the main unit there is a tiny grub screw you need to undo



Then pry off the cover of the switch using a jewellers screw driver or something similar

You will then see these pieces including some very small springs so be careful taking it apart.







There are a total of five small springs, four on the top side and one underneath which holds a mini ball bearing which moves into one of four holes as you turn the key giving you a satisfyingly solid switch position feel.



If you happen to lose a spring (like I did) take the spring out of a disposable lighter - they are identical in width (thanks Gazman for the great suggestion)

Now you have everything apart clean thoroughly with deoxit and sandpaper to get everything shiney again.

Putting everything back together is not instantly obvious so I did it like this.

I took the bottom part of the unit and fitted it into the main housing, lining up the two grooves with the holes in the housing and the hole for the grub screw lines up with the hole in the body.



I then fitted the portion with the ball bearing facing down into the holder so it fits snugly with the tongue that turns as you turn the key.

I then added all the bits as shown in the photo



Then I slipped the top cap of and pushed it snug.  Put the grub screw back in place to keep everything solid and test with the key to make sure everything moves smoothly then remount it on the bike.

From being totally dead my switch now seems to be as good as new.

I hope this helps, if anything is not clear let me know and I will try and clarify.

[Laitch]

 :clap: :2thumbup:

[Martin]

 :2thumbup: When working on things that tend to fire springs and balls into the ether, I do it in a large Tupperware container with high sides. As an added precaution I line the bottom and sides of the container with one of those Chux  type cleaning cloths. The cloth hopefully absorbs Rick O'Shaying parts most of the time. Years ago I dropped a small ball bearing in my workshop searched everywhere and it could not be found. A mate proceeded to drop another on the assumption that if he observed it, it would seek out it's mate. I actually found both five years later together.  :hehehe
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

:2thumbup: When working on things that tend to fire springs and balls into the ether, I do it in a large Tupperware container with high

Is there room for a chair and table in that, Martin, or just the chair?

[Martin]

Both like Texas things are bigger in Queensland.
Regards Martin.

[K100Pilot]

Nice work 👍🏻