K75s midlife refresh

[K1300S]

starting a project thread rather than keep posting in "what did you do today" area...

the original pics when i got in sep15



about 35k miles.

seat is a Corbin "rumble seat".  flip up back rest.









did compression check
temp fixed cracked crankcase breather hose (new one on the slow train from maxbmw)
TB's synched
choke and idle adjusted

then added new lic plate, not very original, but...


matches this one in seattle, owned by brother..



moved it to the shop for some maint..


first up...spark plugs.  same plugs as an S14.
old ones not too bad, but had been in there a long time.  the caps that go into the wires were totally corroded.


noticed one of the reasons the idle may be off, cracked crankcase vent hose...unmetered air going into airbox.


main airbox to manifold hose needs replacing also.


on to the brakes...full fluid flush front and rear.  this had not been done in a while either.  no way to use a pressure bleeder, but you can squeeze the brake lever/pedal with one hand while working the bleed valve with the other.  ez.  Moto MC's sure don't push much fluid.

rear abs


rear brake


front MC on handlebar


nasty old fluid


then took the "barbacks" off.  these aftermarket devices move the handlebars up and back about an inch and a half for a more upright riding position.  not my style.


done


then i changed the final drive oil to redline 75w90 and the transmission oil to redline MTL.

everything is so small!  not used to working things other than cars.

i understand the need for motorcycle lifts now though.  even sitting on the floor it is a pain in the knees and back to work on this thing!

will get to the throttle body adjustment next.

[K1300S]

removed every light fixture front and back, cleaned inside and out, cleaned all connections, replaced all bulbs with new and tested.  it is amazing what just this simple maintenance does for brightness....on a bike or a car.

found that a PO had done an early upgrade to make the tail/brake light more visible.  changed all the bulbs and sockets to use dual filament  1157 bulbs.  took me a few minutes to figure out the wiring and compare to shop manuals to see what was going on.

these were actually added lights in an unused part of the tail lens for the brakes.




and of course, while i was in there, i added a Skene Design P3 rear LED light.  light is a "third brake light" that flashes on brake application, then goes solid really bright.  it is also an always on tail light at lower intensity.
http://www.lights.skenedesign.com/P3_Features.shtml

I also have a Skene "photon booster" amber LED setup i will be installing on the front forks.  Visibility is a good thing!
http://www.lights.skenedesign.com/Photon_Booster.shtml

started replacing the alternator drive bushings.  ya gotta take a bunch of the middle of the bike apart to pull the alternator out.



it is buried down deep.
20151206_171039.jpg

here are the rubber drive bushings which in K bike slang are called "monkey nutz".  here is alternator side.


these look original to the bike and are dead. there are no belts to drive the alt.  the alt is drive by gears through two three pronged couplers with the monkey nutz absorbing the shock between the two.

 

here is the engine side of the coupler


finished the alt bushing replacement.  of course had to paint all the parts that were removed.






after changing the dead monkey nutz, made a mount for my NUVI traffic GPS.

some aluminum i had laying around, a hacked up garmin car dash top mount, cig lighter socket, paint and some bolts.

[K1300S]

valve lash check time.




procedure is just like on an S14, just fewer valves and different special tools.  unfortunately all the exhaust valves were way too tight.  ordered a bunch of shims, put it back together and went for a ride.

  valve bucket tools from Ken (Kenneth Lively [polepenhollow@yahoo.com])  work great!  the one on the left rotates to depress the valve bucket, the one on the right holds the bucket down so you can R&R the shims. 

[K1300S]

took it apart.  dang that is easy.



a bit dirty in there


evidence of cracked crankcase breather hose mess.


these are going to RC Engineering for cleaning


some quality time spend in the laundry room sink.


original project goal is to replace all fuel and cooling hoses, and replace the brake soft lines.

more progress today.
TB going back together.  replaced all the hoses.  did initial setting of the TPS


 added the little switch for the choke light.  not much room for it..


cut all the wire ties, wiped down all the wires, took apart and cleaned all the connections.


then drained coolant and removed all the coolant hoses.  or tried to.  looks like i will have to cut the one that goes through the crankcase cover to get it out.  will new one slide in?  waiting on the new ones to arrive.

[K1300S]

changed the original clutch cable (30k miles).  old one didn't seem bad, i just had a new one available.  wow!  new one is so much smoother!

then replaced all the coolant hoses (they too were original).  the combo of dish soap and lengthwise folding made getting the crank cover hose in easy!




then reassembled the throttle bodies and installed.


front brake line replacement and some wiring tomorrow.  injectors due back from RCEngineering this week.

front brake lines replaced with Spiegler braided.




finished cleaning and straightening up the wiring.  choke light works!


airbox and AFM reinstalled


"while i was in there" ran unswitched power and ground from battery to fairing to drive light relays.


the pile of 1993 dated hoses...


now that front of bike is done, time to take apart the drive line and pull tranny for spline lube.
ok, back of bike came apart today.  need to lube the splines on both ends of the drive shaft and the tranny input shaft.


rear brake system off




diff off


yep, driveshaft splines need some help



then up on the lift so that the center stand can come off for the tranny pull



tranny before, clutch splines were DRY.


tranny after


clutch looks ok.



shop with pieces everywhere


tranny and driveshaft back together

[Martin]

Marshall really a thorough job, you have done yourself proud, and well documented. I use a home made vacuum bleeder, it is on the forum but you can buy them. As far as the lift table goes I couldn't agree more. I just finished building my own version really makes life easy, don't know how I did without it. You will definitely benefit with one, or your back & knees will. Nice bike great colour.
Keep up the good work Martin.

[Scud]

Fantastic. That bike looked good to start with, but you're getting it close to factory-fresh.

[billday]

Great thread, thanks for taking the time!

[Glacial]

Serious garage envy going on here. I have no garage in which to work on the bike, let alone a spacious, well-ordered place like yours. Thanks for documenting your work so well, it really helps to demystify jobs when people do that.

[Chaos]

luv the 2002.  1974?

[K1300S]

luv the 2002.  1974?

close....1975.  massively modified track car.  massaged M3 engine, full custom race suspension, wildwood brakes on all corners, etc.  I use it when I am instructing track schools.

[Gio]

Great write-up and pics ... thanks for sharing. I was interested in the infamous monkey-nutz as I had not seen, but read a lot about these. Strange that there are 6 rubbers but only 3 fins ... so presumably could be rotated to the next 3 slots if worn ..?

[K1300S]

Three fins. ....on each side of the connection.   Six total.  Can't rotate.

[Gio]

Of course ... that makes sense! Pleased to have the opportunity to ask one of my six lifetime stupid questions - thanks for answering.

[K1300S]

Lol....only six per lifetime?   I am way beyond that,  ooops!

[Laitch]

I think the battery clamp should be flipped, Marshall, which would also necessitate removing and reinstalling the rubber coolant tank hold-down. The clamp's flange doesn't touch the battery.

If only Clymer's photos could be as clear as yours instead of their halftones with white arrows pointing into black holes indicating "details."

[F14CRAZY]

I think I like owning a C. No ABS in the way (though I like the safety provided by it), no rear brake caliper...trans removal is pretty easy

[K1300S]

I think the battery clamp should be flipped, Marshall, which would also necessitate removing and reinstalling the rubber coolant tank hold-down. The clamp's flange doesn't touch the battery.

If only Clymer's photos could be as clear as yours instead their halftones with white arrows pointing into black holes indicating "details."

Thanks for the tip!

[K1300S]

need a ruling here....if SWMBO is on vacation with her sisters, does that make it ok to clean greasy parts inside the house?    :dunno

[Laitch]

There should be enough room in the dishwasher for most of those so I'd say it's ok, Marshall.

[Elipten]

You flirt with danger!

[gazman]

If you aint livin on the edge your taken up to much room. . . . . . go for it. (but clean up afterwards) :hehehe

[Martin]

Most definitely I had  a Honda 500T in the spare bedroom while wife was in Melbourne, I was living in the Latrobe valley and it was winter and no garage. So what's a guy to do when you have a nice warm spare bedroom. A word of warning put down lots of newspaper, and if anything goes wrong blame the dog ( even if you don't have one It should confuse her ).Old saying  it is easier to ask for forgiveness than to ask for permission.

[Glacial]

It is amazing how much the tinkering productivity goes up as soon as the tail lights disappear down the road....

[K1300S]

more old rubber and hoses to replace.
coolant fill cap...old gaskets on left, new ones installed.


refreshed the rear brake MC.  new pressure hose and new feed hose from reservoir.


putting stuff back together.  final drive and shock in place.