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Author Topic: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist  (Read 2697 times)

frankenduck

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K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« on: January 12, 2012, 07:03:24 PM »

Two attachments:

Notes:  A write-up with pictures.

Checklist:  One page for taking it apart, one for putting it back together.


Disclaimer: I make no claim that anything in either of the attached PDF files is the correct “BMW” way to do
this, that it’s in the correct order or that it’s complete and I take no responsibility for it’s
contents. It’s merely some pictures and notes I took when I recently spline lubed my 1994
K1100RS and I’m publishing them in the hope that others might find this information useful.
If you choose to undertake this task then you do so AT YOUR OWN RISK and I take no
responsibility for anything that breaks or malfunctions or if you crash your bike because you
didn’t put everything back together properly. Assume that these documents are worth exactly
what you paid for them – nothing.
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mikeinwis

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2012, 08:09:15 AM »

Thankyou, thankyou.  Was hoping you'd document ABSII.
One question: It appears you do not remove hard lines from ABS unit to move it aside???

thanks again 'duck..you da man
Mike
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frankenduck

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2012, 08:48:50 AM »

No, I did not disconnect any of the brake lines.  (I'd experimented with this before when I parted out a 96 RS so I knew it was possible.)

I used a ratchet strap to hold the ABS control unit to the left frame rail up out of the way.

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93 K11LT
94 K11RS- "Kato"
86-97 K75F (K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/ paralever, high perf. cams,TURBO!
91 K1
86 custom K100
and 2 more
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)

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TaosBrick

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #3 on: April 13, 2012, 11:08:00 PM »

Whew - this looks mildly daunting. Guess I can call myself a MotoBricker after accomplishing this task. :k75x
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'92 K75
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billday

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #4 on: April 14, 2012, 08:29:21 AM »

Reading all this makes me glad I have a primitive 100.
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frankenduck

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #5 on: April 14, 2012, 08:55:57 AM »

Reading all this makes me glad I have a primitive 100.

Until you put the exhaust back on and have to get all of those header clamps attached...
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93 K11LT
94 K11RS- "Kato"
86-97 K75F (K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/ paralever, high perf. cams,TURBO!
91 K1
86 custom K100
and 2 more
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)

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TaosBrick

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #6 on: April 14, 2012, 10:07:54 AM »

So I presume for the K75 as well, both the 12mm allen and the 27mm box wrenches are required. Does one actually need to remove the fenders, or does it just make the whole bizness easier?
  Ordered the Guard Dog Moly grease. It'll prolly be here by Wednesday or Thursday. Supposed to be cold and snowy anyway for the next few. Might as well go skiing, then start rippin' into poor ol' Chile Red.
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Flog It Every Day - I mean, the BIKE!
'92 K75
'73 R75/5 Café
'96 F650 Funduro
'89 Yam XT350
'96 Yam Virago 750 (Wife Brenda's)

Expect Nothing, Be Ready For Anything.
- Samurai Maxim

frankenduck

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #7 on: April 14, 2012, 10:27:11 AM »

No 12mm Allen required - that's for the paralever pivot.

What do you think you need a27mm wrench for?

One thing you will probably need is the more or less one-use gasket where the exhaust can hooks up to the header collector. 18121457142
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93 K11LT
94 K11RS- "Kato"
86-97 K75F (K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/ paralever, high perf. cams,TURBO!
91 K1
86 custom K100
and 2 more
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)

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TaosBrick

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #8 on: April 14, 2012, 10:49:00 AM »

Just quoting from your list:

TOOLS: Aside from the tools in the factory tool kit you’ll need the following:
1. A 12mm Allen wrench (for the left final drive pivot)
2. A torque wrench capable of being set to 7.3 N-m (65 in-lbs, 5.4 ft-lbs) for the “floating”
final drive and swing arm pivots (Note that you can probably “get by” without having a
torque wrench. There’s a note about this topic at the very end of this write-up.)
3. A 27mm box wrench or a crescent wrench that will adjust to 27mm for the lock nuts on
the floating pivots
4. Drain pan for draining the final drive and transmission
5. Sawhorse to hold up the rear of the bike when the center stand is removed
6. And beer, lots and lots of beer.

So I'm guessing I don't have "floating pivots", as I don't have a paralever?

Guessing also that the exhaust can gasket needs to come from the dealership rather than bike bandit. And speaking of gaskets, if I decide to take a lookie at my valve clearance situation, should I have a new valve cover gasket on hand?
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Flog It Every Day - I mean, the BIKE!
'92 K75
'73 R75/5 Café
'96 F650 Funduro
'89 Yam XT350
'96 Yam Virago 750 (Wife Brenda's)

Expect Nothing, Be Ready For Anything.
- Samurai Maxim

frankenduck

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2012, 11:06:20 AM »

Just quoting from your list:

TOOLS: Aside from the tools in the factory tool kit you’ll need the following:
1. A 12mm Allen wrench (for the left final drive pivot)

That's for a paralever final drive, a K75 is a monolever bike.  If you can find anything on a K75 that requires a 12mm Allen wrench then I'll buy you a pizza.


Quote
3. A 27mm box wrench or a crescent wrench that will adjust to 27mm for the lock nuts on the floating pivots

I use a crescent wrench.


Quote
So I'm guessing I don't have "floating pivots", as I don't have a paralever?

Not on the final drive but you do on the left side of the swing arm.

Quote
Guessing also that the exhaust can gasket needs to come from the dealership rather than bike bandit.


I've never bought from them but I assume that since they use the BMW parts fiche that they're selling OEM parts so it shouldn't matter.

Quote
And speaking of gaskets, if I decide to take a lookie at my valve clearance situation, should I have a new valve cover gasket on hand?

Yes, probably a good idea.
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93 K11LT
94 K11RS- "Kato"
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86 K75C w/ paralever, high perf. cams,TURBO!
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voodooskin

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #10 on: July 29, 2012, 07:02:11 PM »

Question for anyone who's been able to do this procedure on an ABSII bike:

I'm stuck at page 13 of Duck's (excellent) writeup, not sure how to get enough movement out of my ABS modulator to get the tray pivoted out of the way.

Any suggestions would be great.  I've gotten the holddown nuts off so the tray can move, and I can get some movement out of the ABS modulator, but w/o undoing some brake lines (which I'd prefer not to do - unsure how to get it all out of the way.  I'm almost inclined to cut the tray where the brake line travels through it then on reassembly just pop riven that section back onto the tray using some scrap metal to hold it all together.  Anyway, suggestions from any of you guru's very appreciated !
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frankenduck

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2012, 07:50:16 PM »

Why not just cut it and leave it that way?  I did have to bend mine a little.
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93 K11LT
94 K11RS- "Kato"
86-97 K75F (K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/ paralever, high perf. cams,TURBO!
91 K1
86 custom K100
and 2 more
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)

Buy parts HERE

BuffaloRider

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Re: K1100 ABS II Spline Lube Notes and Checklist
« Reply #12 on: July 31, 2012, 03:13:53 AM »

I was very hesitant to drive into the rear on my recently acquired K75 non-ABS but it wasn't as bad as feared.
The bike was secured on the center stand.
Rear shock was removed
Rear caliper was simply unbolted and tied out of the way.
Rear wheel was removed (I earned my noobie ID10T badge for not figuring out I should REMOVE the muffler until I was putting the wheel back ON the bike :bang-head:)
I used a jack stand to set the drive shaft tube parallel to the floor.
The hardest part was getting the rear drive housing off since it had never been pulled since new, 36K miles ago.
I drained & serviced the final drive at the same time.
My splines were rusted a bit but NO deformation and decent shape. I lubed the crap outtta them with the Honda Moly60 and put it all back together. :2thumbup:
Now that I know how important it is and  how basic the operation is every 10K miles is not that bad.
The only other K I had to look look at was an ABS model and I see no reason why the rear caliper can not be tied off in the same way.
 


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