1987 K100LT Resto - from bits to brick

[SpecialK]

The covers required some sanding, careful masking the paint and clear high temp semi-gloss.  I think they came out OK but not perfect.  A little dust flew into the garage and shows in the picture but they were dry and cured at that point. 

How do you get the silver aluminum parts to come out after painting them black? Just wipe off the silver parts after the black goes on?

[FlatSix]

How do you get the silver aluminum parts to come out after painting them black? Just wipe off the silver parts after the black goes on?

Good morning.  My process for painting these was to do all the sanding first.  I had some imperfections which I sanded down to minimize but I didn't do any fill on them.  But with the semi-gloss black they don't show very easily.  I sanded all the black but not down to bare metal, just mostly scuffed for adhesion and to smooth things out.    I also sanded with 120 in one direction all the bare aluminum sections that won't be painted.  I then masked off all the aluminum parts with blue painters tape and probably spent an hour with a scalpel trimming the mask.  After that three coats of black high-temp semi.  Once that dried I carefully removed all the masking from the bare aluminum and then put three coats of high-temp semi clear over everything.  Then let it cure overnight.  Turned out OK, but like I said before not perfect.  If I wanted perfect I would have filled the few small imperfections (mostly from rubbing of the fairings) and then painted but I like it as it turned out.

Hope that helps.

[SpecialK]

I then masked off all the aluminum parts with blue painters tape and probably spent an hour with a scalpel trimming the mask.  After that three coats of black high-temp semi.  Once that dried I carefully removed all the masking from the bare aluminum....

Hope that helps.

Sounds like you went to some length and a great deal of patience with the masking tape. Looks good from the photos.

[FlatSix]

Perhaps you could go into more detail about how you installed the foot pegs to help the next person who is assembling them from a box of parts. Thanks for the update.

Following up on this request:

Initially all my footpegs and brackets were in parts.  So I had no experience with taking them apart and was staring at the stack of parts thinking, " how difficult could it be?"  Looks easy enough. 

I had ordered new rubbers for the footpegs along with some of the small parts from BMW necessary to refurbish with new, including new springs.  I also ordered some stainless pivot pins, washers and cotter pins.  I had to sand a little with sandpaper wrapped around a round file to get all the new stainless pins to push thru easily but with no slop.  They ended up being tight but operated smoothly when everything was installed.

I tried to assemble everything then using a pair of needlenose pliers attempt to force the springs for both front footpegs in place with the vertical portion of the spring behind the peg, in essence to keep the peg extended but with the ability to flex back toward the bracket.  That proved to be very difficult and I knew something wasn't right.  No way would it be designed like that.  So examining the parts I realized there was a small hole in the bottom of each footpeg which appeared to be the same size as the spring.  If you look at the picture you can see where the vertical portion of the spring goes into the footpeg.  So I assembled everything then tried again to install the spring in the small hole in the footpeg.  This was also difficult but I thought doable.  However my sense was this still wasn't probably how it was intended to go together. 

So what I did was I put the stainless pin thru the bracket and footpeg but didn't install the small plastic bushing or washer or cotter pin yet.  I just put the spring loosely on the pivot pin and was able to get the spring lined up with the hole in the footpeg with the other side resting against the bracket.  I was then able to rather easily work the plastic bushing in place under the spring and install the washer and cotter pin.  All done.  I never did find instructions anywhere on the web on how to do it but my guess is that was how it was intended. 

Hope that makes sense for anyone dealing with the same problem.

[FlatSix]

The tools from Ken Lively arrived yesterday.  The tools plus the instructions Ken sent made it quick work to get the shim out of the bucket. 

The markings on the shim are worn.  All I can read is the number 5.  Mic reading shows 2.55 and I am .10 under on the valve clearance.   

[billday]

Ken's tools are the best. When you said you were doing your valve clearances, I started racking my brain to remember his name but then it was clear you already knew all about him.

[FlatSix]

Ken's tools are the best. When you said you were doing your valve clearances, I started racking my brain to remember his name but then it was clear you already knew all about him.

Thankfully an internet search helped me locate Ken's contact information and I sent him a message.  He responded quickly and I got the tools on order and delivered within a few days. 

[Laitch]

Thankfully an internet search helped me locate Ken's contact information and I sent him a message.

I'll post his contact information here for convenience. It's been on Motobrick since 2012. It's in the Repair Guidance section. Please review it, Dave and update it if it isn't current.

Kenneth Lively
318 S Hart St
Palatine Il 60067

polepenhollow@yahoo.com
847-561-855

[johnny]

greetings...

and here since 16...

dont waste mobil 1 and techron... adjust your valves every august 9th... more on that later...

j o

[FlatSix]

While I wait for a new shim to arrive I spent a little time painting and cleaning.  The intake tubes (manifolds) appear in good order, just in need of some cleaning.  Before and after attached.  Thankfully, because they about $50 a piece!  More parts arrived as well.   

The wheels came back from powdercoating and they look great.  I dropped off the frame to have it done as well, they say it will be only a couple of weeks 

Question regarding rear brakes:  I have the stock rear cylinder and reservoir.  It's pretty crusty but may be in perfect operational condition, I just don't know yet.  I also see discussion about a cheap Chinese one as a good alternative.  Is the stock part perfectly serviceable if it is in good order or if I rebuild it?   Which performs best?

[FlatSix]

I'll post his contact information here for convenience. It's been on Motobrick since 2012. It's in the Repair Guidance section. Please review it, Dave and update it if it isn't current.

Kenneth Lively
318 S Hart St
Palatine Il 60067

polepenhollow@yahoo.com
847-561-855

Correct, Ken is "da man!"

[FlatSix]

greetings...

and here since 16...

dont waste mobil 1 and techron... adjust your valves every august 9th... more on that later...

j o

I'm a sucker for a teaser.

[billday]

The intake tubes (manifolds) appear in good order, just in need of some cleaning.  Before and after attached.  Thankfully, because they about $50 a piece!

The price on those manifolds for the early K100s is crazy. When I did mine I put some red liquid gasket stuff where they meet the engine block. That didn't hurt and may have helped.

When you reassemble the manifolds, the screw clamps need to be arranged *just so* for everything to fit. Be prepared for some fiddly jiggering.

Question regarding rear brakes:  I have the stock rear cylinder and reservoir.  It's pretty crusty but may be in perfect operational condition, I just don't know yet.  I also see discussion about a cheap Chinese one as a good alternative.  Is the stock part perfectly serviceable if it is in good order or if I rebuild it?   Which performs best?

You know how the price for the manifolds is crazy? You can get a brand new BMW rear brake fluid reservoir for practically nothing. Others have used aftermarket but I like the shape of the OEM.

[FlatSix]

When I did mine I put some red liquid gasket stuff where they meet the engine block. That didn't hurt and may have helped.

There must be an o-ring or gasket that goes there, right?  I can see a groove in the bottom of the manifold where it mounts to the block.  I can't imagine there not being a gasket.

[billday]

There must be an o-ring or gasket that goes there, right?  I can see a groove in the bottom of the manifold where it mounts to the block.  I can't imagine there not being a gasket.

Mine looked like some sort of O ring was permanently bonded in, and the fiche doesn't show an O ring as a separate part.

[FlatSix]

Mine looked like some sort of O ring was permanently bonded in, and the fiche doesn't show an O ring as a separate part.

Looks like there is:

Manufacturer Part # : 11 61 1 465 169

[Laitch]

Manufacturer Part # : 11 61 1 465 169

Illustrations for the location of a part with that number indicate that it belongs in a 16-valve (4V) engine, not in an 8-valve (2V) engine. Your moto has a 2V engine. Go with billday's strategy; don't let your imagination run wild. Your parts holding plates are festive!

[FlatSix]

Illustrations for the location of a part with that number indicate that it belongs in a 16-valve (4V) engine, not in an 8-valve (2V) engine. Your moto has a 2V engine. Go with billday's strategy; don't let your imagination run wild. Your parts holding plates are festive!

Aha!  I stand corrected, thank you. 

[Laitch]

This is a K100 2V intake manifold stub.It is part number 11611460408. The ridge indicated by the arrow fits into the groove machined into the cylinder head intake port. More parts get clamped onto the top of it and finally connected to the plenum.  Use a parts fiche for clarification—like this one. The part is in one of the 11-Engine section's diagrams. You might recognize it as a virgin specimen of the subjects in the second photo.

[FlatSix]

This is a K100 2V intake manifold stub.It is part number 11611460408. The ridge indicated by the arrow fits into the groove machined into the cylinder head intake port. More parts get clamped onto the top of it and finally connected to the plenum.  Use a parts fiche for clarification—like this one. The part is in one of the 11-Engine section's diagrams. You might recognize it as a virgin specimen of the subjects in the second photo.

Thank you, I thought I recalled a groove in mine however it could have been a ridge instead.  MaxBMW has been a helpful resource and the source for many parts. 

[FlatSix]

OK, here is what I have on the mating surface side of the manifold.  I am pretty sure I am going to follow billday's recommendation and use some red liquid gasket sealing material on the mating surface to prevent any air leaks.  No need to overthink it.

IMG_3590.jpg (43.7 kB . 768x576 - viewed 859 times)

[Rcgreaves]

Nice work- carry on!

[FlatSix]

Productive weekend for the bikes in the garage.  Managed to get the Triumph tagged which is always a little stressful that everything will work when at the inspector and the usual having to explain why a '71 bike doesn't have a 17 number VIN.  Moving on, the K100 gained some ground toward becoming a working member of the family. 

Got the proper shim in the mail, installed and rechecked all the clearances and we are a GO!  Buttoned up the covers, boy I was thinking there must be a trick to getting the gaskets installed in situ without them dropping out of place but followed the manual and got 'er done.  Gapped and installed the plugs and wires.  Cleaned all the connections with DeOxit and put the coils back on.  Overcome with excitement as to having made it this far I couldn't resist putting the intakes and injectors on the motor.  She is a beauty when put together.

It was then that I realized the FLAPS in my area don't carry the proper size vacuum line for the bike.  Heck probably don't carry any proper hoses that I will need so I will work on securing all those.  Any suggestions are welcome.   Probably more money for MAXBMW.

Should be able to get the tires mounted this week.  If the frame comes back any time soon from powdercoating we can really start to look like a road worthy bike again.

 

[FlatSix]

I have had quite the saga regarding getting my tires mounted so I am going to attempt to do them myself.  Shouldn't be too difficult as I have installed them on other bikes.  I really don't want to scratch the freshly done wheels.  My attempts to have a shop do them this week:

• Shop one is the shop I used to have my rear tire removed a few weeks ago and prior to having the wheels redone.  I just drove over there and they were closed.  Thought it might have been just a Monday that they were closed but when I tried to call the number was out of service.  I have driven by a few times and they are definitely gone.
• Shop two was Cycle Gear.  They were very helpful and friendly but a little nervous about the fresh powdercoat and recommend I take them elsewhere.  They gave me a number of a shop that was too far away and I didn't have time to make it over there.  Still don't really want to drive there.  Reality is it's a big city and I can find someplace but I am trying to not spend hours driving around to get two tires mounted.
• Shop three was the motorcycle dealership next door to Cycle Gear.  Multi-dealership including BMW.  Service department had a couple of big signs stating they don't install tires that aren't purchased at the dealership.  I tried to talk them into it a little but I could tell quickly it was going nowhere.
• Shop four was the mobile tire installer I have used previously on two cars.  He was nice enough and said he wasn't sure he could do motorcycle tires but he would try.  I told him I will call next time I need tires on the SUV.  BTW, great deal...kinda like Discount Tire coming to your house or work and putting on new tires.
• Shop five...speaking of Discount Tire.  Called them on a lark and well, you know the answer there.
• Shop six.  Cycle shop about 10 minutes North of my house.  Would be the ideal location except I work an hour away and not easy to get there before they close at 6pm.  But I called them anyway and they answered.  "Wish you would have called a few weeks ago.  Owner is retiring and we are closing up shop and not accepting any new work"  Darn.

At this point I am kinda giving myself an F in tire installation.  So I am going to do it myself.  As for balancing I will probably just do a hillbilly balance or use balancing beads.  Not sure.

Later

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I have four of these guys that I use when changing tires.  They do a nice job of protecting the finish on the rim.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-Motorcycle-Rim-Protectors-08-0357/282821124897?epid=1442392898&hash=item41d973e321:g:edkAAOSw0g1akYko


s-l500.jpg (17.17 kB . 500x377 - viewed 1255 times)