Author Topic: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS  (Read 45122 times)

Offline rbm

  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 2283
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #25 on: December 05, 2013, 08:31:46 AM »
I couldn't find your user name.
Would you mind linking me?
Sure.  It's not my username; it's Mike P.'s.  He does amazing restoration work on K-bikes.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=814211
http://www.k100-forum.com/t6604-will-i-never-learn
http://www.k100-forum.com/t5243-1990-k75s-spruce-up
  • Regards, Robert
Toronto, Ontario

1987 K75 - Build Blog @http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/

Offline Shoganai

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #26 on: December 05, 2013, 08:48:01 AM »
 :clap:

Thank you.

Offline Shoganai

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #27 on: December 05, 2013, 12:34:27 PM »
Making a wiring harness from scratch would be madness.
I'll making something like this, but not as fancy.





I like this guys pegboard idea a LOT!

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1706/PageID/2642/Project-Miatabusa-Part-6--The-Wiring-Job-From-Heck.aspx


All I'll be doing is making a mirror image of the busted one I have minus messed up parts.

.

Offline billday

  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1341
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #28 on: December 06, 2013, 07:41:59 PM »
Shoganai,

Some inspiration for you, maybe: Here's how a guy made a new harness for a much smaller and simpler machine, Yamaha XS400:

http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5934
  • New York State, USA 10977
  • 1985 K100

Offline Shoganai

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #29 on: December 06, 2013, 09:14:31 PM »
I cannot thank you enough for that link.

I have drive and mechanical understanding coupled with no fear but I truely have no idea how to get from "X" to "Y".

Any thoughts on the process, what's first, what's last, pit-falls and experience I am ALL EARS!



Shoganai,

Some inspiration for you, maybe: Here's how a guy made a new harness for a much smaller and simpler machine, Yamaha XS400:

http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5934

Offline Grim

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 494
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #30 on: December 06, 2013, 09:16:38 PM »
Not sure of your ultimate goal on the harness but This might interest you. Its designed for the Custom bike builder and basically a control module that runs all the basic bike functions.  It would eliminate fuse box and has built in diagnostics.
Motogadget M-unit Electronic Controller
http://store.revivalcycles.com/collections/motogadget-instruments-and-electronics/products/motogadget-m-unit-controller
1995 Morea Green K1100LT

Offline Shoganai

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #31 on: December 09, 2013, 03:46:25 AM »
Dude! That is AWESOME!

My only real goal in this process is to learn.
I sent the company an email about the product as it might relate to my project.

I think it will be fun to learn how to make a wiring harness.


Not sure of your ultimate goal on the harness but This might interest you. Its designed for the Custom bike builder and basically a control module that runs all the basic bike functions.  It would eliminate fuse box and has built in diagnostics.
Motogadget M-unit Electronic Controller
http://store.revivalcycles.com/collections/motogadget-instruments-and-electronics/products/motogadget-m-unit-controller

Offline Shoganai

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #32 on: December 12, 2013, 10:08:33 AM »

I've given up trying to fine a non-BMW alternative pin release tools.
I'm going to make one last ditch effort and post in all my threads and the LD Mailing list to see if someone has them I can borrow or lease.



This is what I need.
Sparks has the best prices, but they are still pretty damn spendy.

These are the kind of tools that are so narrow on size tolerances that the wrong ones can make this already tedious project a real PITA.



http://www.sparks-shop.lv/v3/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=11121&category_id=845&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7&lang=en

1501+1511 = $45.28

1504+1514 = $51.79

1502+1512 = $49.90

 

************

This is the OEM supplier for BWM with part numbers and all.


88 88 6 611 131
Stahlwille 1501+1511

Kabelex Round Pin Release Tool, Small. Pin release tool for round receptacles with locking tongue and contact size of 1.5mm. Bushing size 2.9mm inside, 3.3mm outside. This tool has an ingenious feature to protect the tip. A sliding cover is built into the handle. Also used on BMW, Mercedes, Fiat, Opel and VW-Audi. (Note: the factory tool can be marked number 610 301).
Special Order   $73.55


88 88 6 611 132
New Number: 83 30 0 495 385
Stahlwille 1504+1514

Kabelex Round Pin Release Tool - Medium. For contact size 2.5mm, Bushing size 4.0mm inside, 4.4mm outside. With sliding cover.
Special Order    $84.31


88 88 6 611 133
New Number: 83 30 0 492 708

Stahlwille 1502+1512
Kabelex Round Pin Release Tool - Large. For contact size 3.5mm, Bushing size 4.4mm inside, 5.0mm outside. With sliding cover.
Special Order   $79.99





Today I have to clean house, pay bills and wash clothes but I hope to free up enough time to finish the wiring harness table/board. If I can get that done, I'll start pinning the OEM harness to it and begin to split it open, trace and label wires.


This will help me learn to read and understand wiring schematics.



.

Offline Shoganai

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #33 on: December 13, 2013, 09:38:53 AM »
The first is the Official BMW tools.
The second where I found them WAY Cheaper


**************************************************************

Stahlwille 1501+1511
For contact size of 1.5mm. Bushing size 2.9mm inside, 3.3mm outside. $73.55
http://www.toolsource.com/15011511-kabelex-ejectiontool-p-104402.html

Stahlwille 1504+1514
For contact size 2.5mm, Bushing size 4.0mm inside, 4.4mm outside. $84.31


Stahlwille 1502+1512
For contact size 3.5mm, Bushing size 4.4mm inside, 5.0mm outside. $79.99

 ************************************************************

contact size of 1.5mm.   
http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-07.html
Sale Price: $11.19

contact size 2.5mm,
http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-06.html
Sale Price: $11.19

contact size 3.5mm,
http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-02.html
Sale Price: $8.39

.

Offline Shoganai

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #34 on: December 14, 2013, 01:35:59 PM »
Today I finally get the wiring harness board put together and hung.

This is the original 1993 fuel injection harness. I found a couple of holes and a cluster of cut wires.

I don't have a clue what those cut wires went to, but I'm sure I can find out. Clearly the bike run fine without them because these were not cut by me and I've had it since 1999.





















Offline mystic red

  • Retired Professsional Driver
  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 2922
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #35 on: December 14, 2013, 07:46:23 PM »
Cut as in severed. .. not spliced?

Offline Shoganai

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #36 on: December 14, 2013, 09:40:02 PM »
Cut.

Steve reminded me I cut it months ago scavenging for parts.

FYI. I started with this harness because I bought an intact replacement for $35 in case I screw this one up.

Cut as in severed. .. not spliced?

Offline Shoganai

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #37 on: December 15, 2013, 04:13:22 PM »


The following posts represent the deconstruction of the fuel injection wiring harness.

Some of the pics will have notes. All of the pics are intended to help me remember of what it looked like. After I make this post I'll take it off the board and set it aside for now. I'll leave all the zip ties holding the wires together to keep each cluster together for now.

Then I'll start on the main harness.







I did this to avoid cutting any wires while removing the covering.









Steve reminding me I cut this off while trying to scavenge parts for another project. I still have to connector.









.

Offline Shoganai

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  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #38 on: December 15, 2013, 04:14:08 PM »
.















As far as I can tell, the joining of the green/white wires and the yellow/brown wires must have been done this way due to assemble needs, not function needs.





























I have a couple of observations.

One: If stupid is as stupid dose then I'm fairly stupid.

Two: Anything that hurts that bad should look worse.

Three: 18 year old electrical tape feels like baby snot mixed with contact cement.

Four: #11 Exacto blades rammed under thumb nails when Stupid forgot about not cutting towards one's self SUX!

.


Offline billday

  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1341
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #39 on: December 15, 2013, 09:02:54 PM »
Thanks for all the great pictures, I feel like I'm learning just by watching.
  • New York State, USA 10977
  • 1985 K100

Offline Shoganai

  • ^ Proficient Motobricker
  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #40 on: December 16, 2013, 12:17:33 PM »
Main wiring harness mounted on the board. Due to the large number of connections, I'm going to identify and tag each one before
cutting it open.

At least it can't hurt, might help and looks good on paper.


I keep thinking this is one of those times where you might hear, "Hold my beer and watch this".

Offline Shoganai

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  • Posts: 253
Re: How to butcher a 1993 K1100RS
« Reply #41 on: December 17, 2013, 11:20:10 AM »
Posting on phone difficult.
Only gonna put up a couple of pictures.







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