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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: Shoganai on November 24, 2013, 05:41:18 AM
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When we met by chance in the summer of 1999, she was a one owner commuter; garage kept and well cared for. It was a love at first site that would change my life forever. I named her ichimokusan but a year later I would start calling her The Shop Whore because she like to be on her back on a lift letting the mechanic fuck with her. She didn’t blink a headlight as I forked out almost $10,000 over 18 months and what’s worse, neither did I. Who know you could have an S&M relationship with a motorcycle? She kept hurting my wallet and I kept coming back for more. She owned me.
After 181,000 miles shared together, making her carry WAY more than her makers ever designed for and trying hard as hell to convince her she was indeed a dirt bike and just needed more practice, the toll was too great. I put her out to pasture in hopes that one day I would have the time and money needed to do a full restoration.
Instead, one day never came and years pasted and she became an edifice to my desire exceeding my resources.
Last week as I looking for ways to save or create funds to make ends meet, I thought I could sell her for parts because she was worth more dead than alive.
It was killing me to think about it. I stared at own failure to honor my trust to take good care of her. I felt guilty for sitting on the potential resources she could provide for my family.
I was crying while trying to pulling The Shop Whore apart but I Jim Beam will ease any pain…for a while.
You can't know what this bike has meant to me and you can't know how deeply I have loved it. I don't expected anyone to understand how I feel about my K11's not even my husband. He dose try though, or at least doesn’t dismiss my feelings.
The next morning we talked and it was agreed we would find the money somewhere to make ends meet.
This has been her sad tomb for over three years
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-PjWMpxS/0/L/IMG_3498-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-cQqBFrt/0/L/IMG_3500-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-vTsWXF4/0/L/IMG_3499-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-CxhVpNW/0/L/IMG_3501-L.jpg)
After skinning her, I started gutting her.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-ghg59w2/0/L/DSCF0647-L.jpg)
I disemboweled her.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-4C3Rngk/0/L/DSCF0653-L.jpg)
Bleeding it out is best done before gutting, but in my distressed state of mind I forgot this.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-psdc4q8/0/L/DSCF0654-L.jpg)
Next hang it up but I would suggest not using suboptimum string, even if it’s all you have laying around; smashed fingers will delay proceeding
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-CCWmPWM/0/L/DSCF0655-L.jpg)
Now It’s mostly apart
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-PXtSGNc/0/L/DSCF0656-L.jpg)
And the wiring harness is mostly intact.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-ZsbvkVL/0/L/DSCF0658-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-7nbsg52/0/L/DSCF0661-L.jpg)
Remember the bleeding before gutting part…just sayin’
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-TDp6t3B/0/L/DSCF0663-L.jpg)
This week I’ll start cleaning, bagging and tagging parts and making a shopping list.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-JWJmhv5/0/L/DSCF0667-L.jpg)
Tomorrow I’ll mount the engine.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-NTMqhg9/0/L/DSCF0665-L.jpg)
My basement aka workshop when I last saw it.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-Wq5NHf8/0/L/DSCF0668-L.jpg)
After the New Year I’ll start by powder coating the frame dark blue.
Anton has always been so kind to me and supportive of my wrenching. When I spoke with him this week he offered to help show me how to do a complete top end, rings and water/oil pump rebuild.
I’m glad to be owning my responsibility to The Shop Whore and I hope with the extra hours I’m working at the hospital and possible second part time job I could be done in 1 year.
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Looking forward to this read...... :popcorm
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+1
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I enjoy following ur projects and rides. :popcorm
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Man that was a great read. Thanks a ton for taking the time to take the pics and upload them with your story. Your experience makes me appreciate my bike even more.
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Soon, "as fast as one can go" will go back together and it will be a wonderful and frustrating experience.
very respectfully,
mikealso
69 BSA T-Bolt (from boxes)
74 Honda 750 (saved from scrap)
91 K100RS (begging for rebuild)
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Thank you all.
Yes Mike that's what it means, good catch.
Today I cleaned up the parts pile and organized the parts onto 6 shelves and 6 small parts . Tomorrow I'll mount the engine on a stand, remove the fork brace from the frame.
Next week I'll start prepping the frame for powder coating.
Soon, "as fast as one can go" will go back together and it will be a wonderful and frustrating experience.
very respectfully,
mikealso
69 BSA T-Bolt (from boxes)
74 Honda 750 (saved from scrap)
91 K100RS (begging for rebuild)
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File under "thinking out loud"
I need to get my hands on a BMW pin out tool to start taking the wiring harness apart.
It's cut and patched in several places and I've decided to remake a wiring harness from scratch.
I understand the process in theory, so it shouldn't be too difficult. The HARD part is salvaging the OEM molex-like connectors.
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So I got all the parts kinda organized.
I skipped cleaning anything and I only labeled a few things. I may regret that later, but what the hell, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Here's all the small parts.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-nm6gCcW/0/X2/DSCF0699-X2.jpg)
And here's all the big parts.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-XfBC7Nq/0/L/DSCF0703-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-txgtqZw/0/L/DSCF0702-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-sX6fH3Z/0/L/DSCF0704-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-7Cddprd/0/L/DSCF0705-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-KkW599H/0/L/DSCF0708-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-6sJrDfK/0/L/DSCF0706-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-2bCvv9P/0/L/DSCF0707-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-qdMRfnH/0/L/DSCF0709-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-Cr8ZJxd/0/L/DSCF0700-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-Q2vmT2k/0/L/DSCF0701-L.jpg)
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Next, get the engine off the floor.
Using the intermediate housing bolts hole for the engine mount seems natural however the bracket I'm using is for car engines. That is to say it's real big when compared to the back side of a k1100 transmission housing.
I took some measurements and determined I needed (4) 8M x 1.25 x 80 bolts.
Ace Hardware, Auto Zone, Advance Auto and Lowes didn't have any but NAPA did.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-pRSsXLf/0/L/DSCF0691-L.jpg)
Steve showed me how to use washers to provide a good contact surface, shim the bolts and help center them in the bracket.
After 30 min. of trying several combinations of bolt locations I found one that would work. I didn't want to use the mounting pin locations but found I had no choice.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-n5H2Z47/0/L/DSCF0710-L.jpg)
So I shimmed it with a pair of washers to help transfer the force to the housing.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-Gv4HkLZ/0/L/DSCF0714-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-3Mz4BLq/0/L/DSCF0716-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-KG573SL/0/L/DSCF0717-L.jpg)
I did much better using this home made lifting system this time and things went smoothly. Especially considering I've never done anything like this.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-v8RpNFB/0/L/DSCF0720-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-GgGBgdM/0/L/DSCF0719-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-FB9x9DG/0/L/DSCF0718-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-WsjBBSK/0/L/DSCF0721-L.jpg)
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I enjoy following ur projects and rides. :popcorm
Thank you Ron.
Man that was a great read. Thanks a ton for taking the time to take the pics and upload them with your story. Your experience makes me appreciate my bike even more.
Thank you. Keep in mind the pics serve my purposes as well. I use them later when I'm putting things back together to help remind me what things looked like before.
I cannot express how useful doing that is and once you start doing it with your projects you'll wonder why you never used a camera to take visual notes.
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Next, remove everything from the frame.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-pvZrZNp/0/XL/DSCF0723-XL.jpg)
The red circles are to help me remember where these parts go later.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-jZMcCdj/0/XL/DSCF0724-1-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-VP5VJfj/0/XL/DSCF0725-1-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-XmS7SLQ/0/XL/DSCF0728-1-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-sFSwgMd/0/XL/DSCF0730-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-HCkH4XK/0/XL/DSCF0731-1-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-FBNKMVJ/0/XL/DSCF0734-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-g6sL6RG/0/XL/DSCF0733-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-ctX4Sgp/0/XL/DSCF0735-1-XL.jpg)
The BMW Service Manual said to mark these so I did. The Clymer did not.
Can anyone tell me why?
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-zXpbPRg/0/XL/DSCF0738-XL.jpg)
This needs 'splainin'.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-XqRCxXg/0/XL/DSCF0739-XL.jpg)
I could not loosen the nut on top of the steering head with a ratchet or a ratchet AND a hammer. I kept doubting myself and read and re-read both the Clymer and the Service book.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-zt2hP2X/0/O/RTFM.jpg)
So I used a ratchet and the pipe for leverage to turn the nut and a crescent wrench to hold the big nut.
I'm sure now I still did it wrong.
What I was calling a 'nut' (number 3) was in fact a screw. I think I was supposed to hold that screw still and turn the real nut (number 4) below it.
Oh well, I'll deal with that later, what is done is done.
(http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/Diagrams/B0000626.png?v=04302013)
I had no problem tapping out the lower bearing race and the top was a SERIOUS PITA.
I've done steering head bearings and races before so this was not my first rodeo. But after 2-1/2 hours I gave up. I knew I did this without a race puller but I think the difference was that I didn't have the weight of the bike to help.
When Steve came home we went to the basement. He flipped the frame upside down and using a slide hammer to hook the race lip he used a real hammer to strike the slid handle.
In the future I'm going to get this awesome tool.
http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_33_50&products_id=64&zenid=dd24e28b80aabab215b09df4b355fbec (http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_33_50&products_id=64&zenid=dd24e28b80aabab215b09df4b355fbec)
BMW R90S Steering Head Bearing Race Removal (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBdC8IkwfL4#)
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I did much better using this home made lifting system this time and things went smoothly. Especially considering I've never done anything like this.
I have a 440/880 lb electric cable hoist for that. Also comes in handy when I need to do some real work on the bench ... just put the brick up on the mezzanine.
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In the future I'm going to get this awesome tool.
I thought you already had one of them, or borrowed one the last time you did steering head bearings.....
Basically you use a combination of 3 & 4 to set the pre-load torque of #7 then after that is set, you have to hold #3 when installing the triple upper(#2) between #7 and #4.
Like you said it will all come later when you assemble the triple tree.
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Great reading, thanks again.
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I know I set HM VII as the dead line but Steve and I talked about the reality and the depth of this project last night.
If I only had $200 a month, that's only $2400.
The truth of the matter it will cost several thousand dollars.
Steve estimates $6000
Let me break it out as far as I understand this process.
(just off the top of my head)
1. Powder coat frame - Cobalt blue
2. Powder coat all of the following black.
Final Drive
Drive shaft housing
Intermediate housing
Exhaust protection plate
Exhaust bracket left
Both foot peg brackets (black with cobalt blue raised areas)
Transmission housing
shift lever
Triple clamp
fork tubes
handle bar (minus where the controls attach)
Clutch and brake handles
rear brake lever
brake caliper housings
"H" bracket
Rims with cobalt blue pin stripe
Center and side stands
alternator housing cover
Satin Black Velvet Ceramic coated exhaust headers
ChromeX bright polished aluminum ceramic coating exhaust can
Black Gloss Ceramic coating the following
Engine block
Oil sump
Oil pan cover
Timing chain cover
Crack case cover
Cylinder head cover with cobalt blue stripe
Assess every nut, bolt, washer and screw for stainless steel replacement
New wiring harness (I'll make this from scratch)
Rebuild the water/oil pump
Rebuild the top end
Rings and assess cam tolerances
Create functional crash/drop bars for front fairing
Create functional crash/drop bar for tragkorbs
Replace tragkorbs with NEW ones
Repaint the entire bike (color yet to be chosen)
Keep in mind to paint power train (front to rear) they will have to opened and gutted so there'll be a mess of one time use things that'll need to be bought.
Anton said he would help me with the deep engine work.
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Shoganai:
Quite the project you have set up for yourself!
I am in the middle of a '75 RD350 ground up myself that will have a tricked out RD400 engine in it, so have an idea of what you will be going through w/the much more complex BMW.
If I may, I'd like to ask a few questions about your ceramic coating the engine parts - and PLEASE do not take any offense that I certainly do not intend.
While I realize that the engine is water cooled as compared to the air cooled bikes that I have had in the past, it is my understanding that both ceramic coating and powder coating are thermal barriers, and as such are appropriate for intake systems and exhausts to keep heat out/in as desired.
I realize also that the more heat retained in the engine the more theoretical efficiency.
I have heard a great deal about air cooled engines that have been powder coated coming to untimely ends because they simply could not shed the heat (cylinder heads and barrels powder coated).
While I don't imagine this is anywhere near the problem on a water-cooled engine, I would like to ask, knowing that 4V engines have a bit of a cooling problem around the valves as compared to the 2V, is keeping the heat in what you want to do? Will you be adding an oil cooler to help offset the additional heat kept in the engine?
Once my RD project is on the road, I intend to do some serious upgrading of my '85 K 100. I already have a k100-4V engine/tranny/paralever rear/final drive, 4V forks and K1100 tripletree and brakes and wheels, and will be tearing it down to the frame for paint.
I personally like the idea of painting frames and anything else that can get rocks thrown up against them, as once powder coating gets chipped it is a major effort to get fixed, whereas paint is a much easier process - not sure how ceramic is in this regard.
I do have bits powder coated (switch assemblies come to mind) and my exhaust/expansion chambers ceramic coated. so I am definitely not against either process, just wondering if it is the best decision for your engine....
Since I have some idea of what such projects mean to the individual (I sweat every detail, but then again I'm a programmer/engineer and therefore very anal), I just want to make sure that you have everything taken into consideration as far as the coatings you will be using on the engine....
I look forward to seeing more of your project and have enjoyed reading what you have done and where you are going with it.
When I finally have time I will be posting pics of my RD project on another forum and will post some pics of my '85 and a link to the other forum thread on this forum so you can see what I have done/am doing, because I love reading about others builds to get ideas and learn.
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Cool post and food for thought.
I'm busy today, but reply in more detail later.
Thank you.
Shoganai:
Quite the project you have set up for yourself!
I am in the middle of a '75 RD350 ground up myself that will have a tricked out RD400 engine in it, so have an idea of what you will be going through w/the much more complex BMW.
If I may, I'd like to ask a few questions about your ceramic coating the engine parts - and PLEASE do not take any offense that I certainly do not intend.
While I realize that the engine is water cooled as compared to the air cooled bikes that I have had in the past, it is my understanding that both ceramic coating and powder coating are thermal barriers, and as such are appropriate for intake systems and exhausts to keep heat out/in as desired.
I realize also that the more heat retained in the engine the more theoretical efficiency.
I have heard a great deal about air cooled engines that have been powder coated coming to untimely ends because they simply could not shed the heat (cylinder heads and barrels powder coated).
While I don't imagine this is anywhere near the problem on a water-cooled engine, I would like to ask, knowing that 4V engines have a bit of a cooling problem around the valves as compared to the 2V, is keeping the heat in what you want to do? Will you be adding an oil cooler to help offset the additional heat kept in the engine?
Once my RD project is on the road, I intend to do some serious upgrading of my '85 K 100. I already have a k100-4V engine/tranny/paralever rear/final drive, 4V forks and K1100 tripletree and brakes and wheels, and will be tearing it down to the frame for paint.
I personally like the idea of painting frames and anything else that can get rocks thrown up against them, as once powder coating gets chipped it is a major effort to get fixed, whereas paint is a much easier process - not sure how ceramic is in this regard.
I do have bits powder coated (switch assemblies come to mind) and my exhaust/expansion chambers ceramic coated. so I am definitely not against either process, just wondering if it is the best decision for your engine....
Since I have some idea of what such projects mean to the individual (I sweat every detail, but then again I'm a programmer/engineer and therefore very anal), I just want to make sure that you have everything taken into consideration as far as the coatings you will be using on the engine....
I look forward to seeing more of your project and have enjoyed reading what you have done and where you are going with it.
When I finally have time I will be posting pics of my RD project on another forum and will post some pics of my '85 and a link to the other forum thread on this forum so you can see what I have done/am doing, because I love reading about others builds to get ideas and learn.
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:popcorm
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File under "thinking out loud"
I need to get my hands on a BMW pin out tool to start taking the wiring harness apart.
It's cut and patched in several places and I've decided to remake a wiring harness from scratch.
I understand the process in theory, so it shouldn't be too difficult. The HARD part is salvaging the OEM molex-like connectors.
During the process of the mechanical stuff, why not also keep your eyes open for a complete harness from a breaker. Potentially not butchered and then you would have more extra parts......
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Ok Brad, I've re-read your post and done some research and I agree with you re: ceramic coating the block.
However, powder coating is still on the table.
BTW - check out this page with 100's of powder coating colors. http://boneheadperformance.com/color-charts/ (http://boneheadperformance.com/color-charts/)
I like the Hawaiian Blue for the frame.
Scott, I was thinking the same thing.
I found and bought a un-molested complete 1994 K1100RS fuel injection wiring harness just yesterday.
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I'm currently keeping my eye open for a supplier of wire.
I think I should be looking for GXL 18g.
Any thoughts on that?
These are the wire colors I need based on the Service Manual wiring diagram.
W = White, R = Red, G = Green, L = Blue, Y = Yellow, O = Orange, V = Violet, B = Black, Br = Brown, Gr = Gray
B/R, B/G, B/L, B/Y
W/B, W/R, W/L, W/Br, W/R, W/L, W/Br, W/Gr
R/B, R/W, R/Y
G/B, G/W, G/R, G/L, G/Y, G/V, G/Br, G/Gr
L/B, L/W, L/R, L/G, L/Y, L/Br
Y/B, Y/R, Y/G, Y/Br, Y/Gr
V/B, V/W, V/G
Br/W, Br/R, Br/Y
Gr/W, Gr/L
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So I got all the parts kinda organized.
I skipped cleaning anything and I only labeled a few things. I may regret that later, but what the hell, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Challenging project but nice to see you're trying to restore a loved machine.
I think you are right ... that you may come to regret that later. When I did a teardown of my K75, I put all the parts into zip lock bags. Then I labelled the bags with the parts and parts count that the bag contained. I tried to group parts by the region of the bike from where they came. Even so, one year later, I still have a few parts that I can't quite remember where they go. I do figure them out in the end eventually. Your partitioned boxes might be organized now, but how about 6 months from now?
As for cleaning, you might find that cleaning the parts now before storage is a time saver in the end. This is borne out through experience; read through posts by A.T.T-W. on advrider.
Food for thought.
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Thank you.
I couldn't find your user name.
Would you mind linking me?
As it turns out I currently have more time than funds for this project.
I was I little rushed to clean up the mess I made of the basement and the house for Thanksgiving.
There is no cleaning sink/tub in the basement at this time. That means I'll have to take everything upstairs, thru the house and kitchen to the laundry sink.
I'll take your advice on the cleaning and labeling things.
As for cleaning, you might find that cleaning the parts now before storage is a time saver in the end. This is borne out through experience; read through posts by A.T.T-W. on advrider.
Food for thought.
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I like that color!
It's an awful lot like the Karibic Blau that I have on a set of side panels, fender and gas tank that I may use instead of the Polaris Silver that came on my bike.
I suppose that if a professional does it and puts it on thin that you would be okay with powder coating the engine, but as I said earlier, I like paint where rocks can chip something.
I am looking forward to your build.
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I couldn't find your user name.
Would you mind linking me?
Sure. It's not my username; it's Mike P.'s. He does amazing restoration work on K-bikes.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=814211 (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=814211)
http://www.k100-forum.com/t6604-will-i-never-learn (http://www.k100-forum.com/t6604-will-i-never-learn)
http://www.k100-forum.com/t5243-1990-k75s-spruce-up (http://www.k100-forum.com/t5243-1990-k75s-spruce-up)
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:clap:
Thank you.
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Making a wiring harness from scratch would be madness.
I'll making something like this, but not as fancy.
(http://www.e-z-hook.com/product_ovr_vw_imgs/large/breadboard02.jpg)
(http://www.precmfgco.com/Fecon%20Board.gif)
I like this guys pegboard idea a LOT!
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1706/PageID/2642/Project-Miatabusa-Part-6--The-Wiring-Job-From-Heck.aspx (http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1706/PageID/2642/Project-Miatabusa-Part-6--The-Wiring-Job-From-Heck.aspx)
All I'll be doing is making a mirror image of the busted one I have minus messed up parts.
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Shoganai,
Some inspiration for you, maybe: Here's how a guy made a new harness for a much smaller and simpler machine, Yamaha XS400:
http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5934 (http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5934)
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I cannot thank you enough for that link.
I have drive and mechanical understanding coupled with no fear but I truely have no idea how to get from "X" to "Y".
Any thoughts on the process, what's first, what's last, pit-falls and experience I am ALL EARS!
Shoganai,
Some inspiration for you, maybe: Here's how a guy made a new harness for a much smaller and simpler machine, Yamaha XS400:
http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5934 (http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5934)
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Not sure of your ultimate goal on the harness but This might interest you. Its designed for the Custom bike builder and basically a control module that runs all the basic bike functions. It would eliminate fuse box and has built in diagnostics.
Motogadget M-unit Electronic Controller
http://store.revivalcycles.com/collections/motogadget-instruments-and-electronics/products/motogadget-m-unit-controller (http://store.revivalcycles.com/collections/motogadget-instruments-and-electronics/products/motogadget-m-unit-controller)
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Dude! That is AWESOME!
My only real goal in this process is to learn.
I sent the company an email about the product as it might relate to my project.
I think it will be fun to learn how to make a wiring harness.
Not sure of your ultimate goal on the harness but This might interest you. Its designed for the Custom bike builder and basically a control module that runs all the basic bike functions. It would eliminate fuse box and has built in diagnostics.
Motogadget M-unit Electronic Controller
http://store.revivalcycles.com/collections/motogadget-instruments-and-electronics/products/motogadget-m-unit-controller (http://store.revivalcycles.com/collections/motogadget-instruments-and-electronics/products/motogadget-m-unit-controller)
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I've given up trying to fine a non-BMW alternative pin release tools.
I'm going to make one last ditch effort and post in all my threads and the LD Mailing list to see if someone has them I can borrow or lease.
This is what I need.
Sparks has the best prices, but they are still pretty damn spendy.
These are the kind of tools that are so narrow on size tolerances that the wrong ones can make this already tedious project a real PITA.
http://www.sparks-shop.lv/v3/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=11121&category_id=845&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7&lang=en (http://www.sparks-shop.lv/v3/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=11121&category_id=845&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7&lang=en)
1501+1511 = $45.28
1504+1514 = $51.79
1502+1512 = $49.90
************
This is the OEM supplier for BWM with part numbers and all.
88 88 6 611 131
Stahlwille 1501+1511
Kabelex Round Pin Release Tool, Small. Pin release tool for round receptacles with locking tongue and contact size of 1.5mm. Bushing size 2.9mm inside, 3.3mm outside. This tool has an ingenious feature to protect the tip. A sliding cover is built into the handle. Also used on BMW, Mercedes, Fiat, Opel and VW-Audi. (Note: the factory tool can be marked number 610 301).
Special Order $73.55
88 88 6 611 132
New Number: 83 30 0 495 385
Stahlwille 1504+1514
Kabelex Round Pin Release Tool - Medium. For contact size 2.5mm, Bushing size 4.0mm inside, 4.4mm outside. With sliding cover.
Special Order $84.31
88 88 6 611 133
New Number: 83 30 0 492 708
Stahlwille 1502+1512
Kabelex Round Pin Release Tool - Large. For contact size 3.5mm, Bushing size 4.4mm inside, 5.0mm outside. With sliding cover.
Special Order $79.99
Today I have to clean house, pay bills and wash clothes but I hope to free up enough time to finish the wiring harness table/board. If I can get that done, I'll start pinning the OEM harness to it and begin to split it open, trace and label wires.
This will help me learn to read and understand wiring schematics.
.
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The first is the Official BMW tools.
The second where I found them WAY Cheaper
**************************************************************
Stahlwille 1501+1511
For contact size of 1.5mm. Bushing size 2.9mm inside, 3.3mm outside. $73.55
http://www.toolsource.com/15011511-kabelex-ejectiontool-p-104402.html (http://www.toolsource.com/15011511-kabelex-ejectiontool-p-104402.html)
Stahlwille 1504+1514
For contact size 2.5mm, Bushing size 4.0mm inside, 4.4mm outside. $84.31
Stahlwille 1502+1512
For contact size 3.5mm, Bushing size 4.4mm inside, 5.0mm outside. $79.99
************************************************************
contact size of 1.5mm.
http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-07.html (http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-07.html)
Sale Price: $11.19
contact size 2.5mm,
http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-06.html (http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-06.html)
Sale Price: $11.19
contact size 3.5mm,
http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-02.html (http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-02.html)
Sale Price: $8.39
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Today I finally get the wiring harness board put together and hung.
This is the original 1993 fuel injection harness. I found a couple of holes and a cluster of cut wires.
I don't have a clue what those cut wires went to, but I'm sure I can find out. Clearly the bike run fine without them because these were not cut by me and I've had it since 1999.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-PgVDssw/0/L/DSCF0772-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-3QC4NBn/0/L/DSCF0773-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-fPbZJdH/0/L/DSCF0776-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-NJxcwKm/0/L/DSCF0777-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-gN6HVzf/0/L/DSCF0779-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-XrngcK6/0/L/DSCF0780-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-Wmkt9TM/0/L/DSCF0781-L.jpg)
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Cut as in severed. .. not spliced?
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Cut.
Steve reminded me I cut it months ago scavenging for parts.
FYI. I started with this harness because I bought an intact replacement for $35 in case I screw this one up.
Cut as in severed. .. not spliced?
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The following posts represent the deconstruction of the fuel injection wiring harness.
Some of the pics will have notes. All of the pics are intended to help me remember of what it looked like. After I make this post I'll take it off the board and set it aside for now. I'll leave all the zip ties holding the wires together to keep each cluster together for now.
Then I'll start on the main harness.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-wvkXdsf/0/XL/DSCF0788-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-nV5C9S5/0/XL/DSCF0786-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-fQ82R4t/0/XL/DSCF0783-XL.jpg)
I did this to avoid cutting any wires while removing the covering.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-Mh5cQTP/0/XL/DSCF0791-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-mF2JVXK/0/XL/DSCF0794-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-wLwMb5k/0/XL/DSCF0797-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-34CsP5j/0/XL/DSCF0798-XL.jpg)
Steve reminding me I cut this off while trying to scavenge parts for another project. I still have to connector.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-zbghpB6/0/XL/DSCF0801-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-j8J6vS8/0/XL/DSCF0805-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-cbTw8hN/0/XL/DSCF0808-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-hHPL4tV/0/XL/DSCF0809-XL.jpg)
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.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-qr3PWVc/0/XL/DSCF0810-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-cJwdLLZ/0/XL/DSCF0813-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-5ThHTmS/0/XL/DSCF0811-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-cLPzZM2/0/XL/DSCF0812-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-cC6svnk/0/XL/DSCF0817-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-NvHZN3P/0/XL/DSCF0816-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-WV5KK8T/0/XL/DSCF0819-XL.jpg)
As far as I can tell, the joining of the green/white wires and the yellow/brown wires must have been done this way due to assemble needs, not function needs.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-mVhnkkv/0/XL/DSCF0818-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-zFk3Z5m/0/XL/DSCF0829-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-bWkCDZg/0/XL/DSCF0830-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-4D38zJT/0/XL/DSCF0832-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-7XgfFK8/0/XL/DSCF0834-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-XsSQRR3/0/XL/DSCF0835-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-qNpzgGH/0/XL/DSCF0838-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-mNrmk2W/0/XL/DSCF0839-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-W9cxxHv/0/XL/DSCF0841-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-grJ3jn3/0/XL/DSCF0840-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-Mnqg3Kj/0/XL/DSCF0842-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-CGShKT4/0/XL/DSCF0847-XL.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-MWsRMgb/0/XL/DSCF0850-XL.jpg)
I have a couple of observations.
One: If stupid is as stupid dose then I'm fairly stupid.
Two: Anything that hurts that bad should look worse.
Three: 18 year old electrical tape feels like baby snot mixed with contact cement.
Four: #11 Exacto blades rammed under thumb nails when Stupid forgot about not cutting towards one's self SUX!
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Thanks for all the great pictures, I feel like I'm learning just by watching.
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Main wiring harness mounted on the board. Due to the large number of connections, I'm going to identify and tag each one before
cutting it open.
At least it can't hurt, might help and looks good on paper.
I keep thinking this is one of those times where you might hear, "Hold my beer and watch this".
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Posting on phone difficult.
Only gonna put up a couple of pictures.
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-LV4BSGL/0/L/DSCF0898-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-NR9hrdd/0/L/DSCF0896-L.jpg)
(http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Shop-Whore-Restoration/i-LgLhKWF/0/L/DSCF0899-L.jpg)