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Electrical Diagrams ~ Schematics / Motogadget M-Unit Wiring
« Last post by sooprvylyn on Today at 05:07:20 PM »
I have this one for wiring the motogadget m-unit to a k1100. 

Thank you to my friend Erick for putting this together

Once I polish up my vector art version I'll update this post.
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Project Motobrick 3d Printing Emporium / Rear main seal tool
« Last post by sooprvylyn on Today at 04:51:56 PM »
Here is a 3d file for the rear main seal tool.  Found on thingiverse:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4459988/files


admins, feel free to move this file and link elsewhere if more appropriate. I just want to make this available for people.
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You can see the air temp sensor cord sticking out behind pod 4 in this photo....the sensor sits right between pods 3 and 4. 

If anyone puts pod filters on their bike, make sure you oil them so they can do their job.  Also, know the environment you ride in.  If its a dusty area, probably dont use pods.

You cant do a similar setup on a 2V K bike.
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How do the custom brick modifiers bypass the air flow sensor?
I've seen some builds that only have velocity stacks attached to the throttle bodies.

They are 4v K1100s.  There is no airflow sensor, just an air temp sensor, and the earlier jetronic EFI was replaced with a motronic EFI.  I made a bracket that holds my air temp sensor right between the pod filters I put on mine when I did my airbox delete.  I notice no real difference in performance with this method, and I assume the Motronic is able to adapt to the small difference this setup makes.


BTW- V-stacks are a BAD idea on a bike you actually plan to ride regularly.  Zero filtration is pretty dumb.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Valve clearance too tight on exhaust
« Last post by sooprvylyn on Today at 04:17:54 PM »

The notion that you need to replace any clutch hardware is wives tale nonsense.

My sheared clutch stretch bolts when torqued to spec suggest otherwise.  You may be able to get away with it, but you are literally deforming the bolt further than it is intended to be. Personally I'd rather KNOW that my bolts arent going to shear or have the heads pop off under load or come lose in the bell housing spinning at 2000+ RMP at 80mph. Thats just me tho


On another note, I have a bag of pre-stretched clutch assembly bolts if anyone is interested.


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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Valve clearance too tight on exhaust
« Last post by Laitch on Today at 09:57:40 AM »
The BMW manual makes no mention of replacing that or the six clutch bolts.
The notion that you need to replace any clutch hardware is wives tale nonsense.
The only hardware I look at as one time use in the clutch area(outside of the main shaft lock nut) would be the star washers. I've reused the bolts with no issues.
+1  I think I replaced the clutch nut once.
Duly noted.  :laughing4-giggles:

frankenduck's observation about what's not in most manuals he's scanned is accurate; however, BMW's, Clymer's, and Haynes don't caution against reusing head bolts, rod bolts or crank bolts during repair either yet it is often considered best practice during repair on used equipment with unknown histories. I understand why BMW's abridged manual online might leave that out because the original manual was used by techs in training with supplemental instruction, and by professional mechanics. I'm okay with wrenchers reusing those items because it adds excitement to hum-drum modern life. It's the same reason I travel with only a tire patching kit, an air pump, and the stock tool kit.

As far as duck's reference to wives tales and clutch bolts goes, wives really didn't seem to start participating in automotive mechanics to a large extent until the 1990s, but if the US Census has compiled figures declaring how many wives are actually in the trade, I haven't run across them yet. It's fair to say that they aren't old wives, the marital category commonly considered the greatest source of questionable information. At least I wouldn't call them old to their faces. The accuracy of considering wives tales—from old or young wives—as being inaccurate is also questionable. There just isn't enough quantifiable data being compiled on that subject because grant money for research these days is being redirected to AI, the ultimate outcome of which is likely to be bot tales or old bot tales.

I'm in the enviable position of only having one Brick to ride and maintain so a $13 expenditure once every ±80,000 miles on clutch bolts is small potatoes. The only written source I have that recommends replacing clutch bolts or the clutch nut is Max BMW, the source of most of my replacement parts and the only source of free M&Ms I know of outside of Halloween, so I'm all in. Happily, I'm not plague by rumination that villainous plots are afoot in business and everywhere else to control me, dominate my health, and my hold my spending hostage because I accepted those notions long ago and work around them. After all, many of us are engaged in the desire to influence others for advantage, profit, esteem, or just plain fun—every now and then. It just makes sense to me to replace parts that lead a hard life when the occasion seems appropriate and affordable: however in my case, peace of mind doesn't come from replacing parts; it comes from learning to be peaceful.


A used Brick isn't a used Toyota Corolla. It's likely to have lived a life of neglect in maintenance and purpose while its guts have been exposed to ravages from weather and humidity, at least that's how it seems to me and from what I've gathered here and elsewhere online. The Brick was built within a culture where precision is revered but some of us seem to believe it can be maintained like a bicycle with whatever tool is laying around. Free will allows that strategy. Free will is a gift but delusion and ignorance often extract large fees. If you invested in Bitcoin early, you'll probably be okay regardless.
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The only hardware I look at as one time use in the clutch area(outside of the main shaft lock nut) would be the star washers. I've reused the bolts with no issues.

+1 

I think I replaced the clutch nut once.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Valve clearance too tight on exhaust
« Last post by Scott_ on Today at 06:39:56 AM »
The only hardware I look at as one time use in the clutch area(outside of the main shaft lock nut) would be the star washers. I've reused the bolts with no issues.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Installing a Temp gauge in a K75S
« Last post by Batan on Today at 03:42:26 AM »
The K75T isn't even a "real" K bike. All K75Ts are K75Cs from the factory if you look up the VIN. BMW North America had them modified with a K100 standard headlight and handlebar mounted windscreen in order to make a K75 more suitable for touring before the K75RT came out in 1990.

Handlebar pod mounted gauges were available for K100RT, K100LT and K75RT with high handlebars.

Parts fiche:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0514-USA---K589-BMW-K%20100%20RT%2084%20(0504,0505,0514)&diagId=62_0239

Oh. Wow. I did not know that.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Valve clearance too tight on exhaust
« Last post by frankenduck on Today at 02:23:52 AM »
The only manual that recommends replacing any clutch hardware is Clymer which recommends replacing the clutch nut. The BMW manual makes no mention of replacing that or the six clutch bolts.

I've never taken numerous clutches apart for decades and always reuse ALL of the hardware. It has never caused any issues.

The notion that you need to replace any clutch hardware is wives tale nonsense.
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