Dash Plate Alignment on 1991 K75s?

[KappoBrick]

Hello, recently I decided to bring my 1991 K75S back to stock as I have owned it for over a year now as my first bike and want to enjoy it the way BMW intended. On my list is the handle grips and aligning the dash pod which I cant seem to get right. Also is there a proper angle in which the S bars are to be installed? I feel like my wrists are dying when I ride and I dont think it should be that way. Any help is appreciated!

[Chaos]

You mean the instrument pod? They're infamous for bouncing around a lot in their mount, some owners brace the pod with foam but that shouldn't mess with the alignment.  As for the handlebars google some K75s images, it's pretty much adjust to your preference kind of thing.  Photos would help diagnose your dilemmas.

[KappoBrick]

I mean the plastic pad under the gauge cluster that goes over the handlebar blocks.

[Laitch]

I mean the plastic bad under the gauge cluster that goes over the handbar blocks.

That S-style pad is mounted on L-shaped channel brackets that can be bent slightly forward or rearward to accommodate change in rotation of the handlebar—which you might need to do to get comfortable. Like Chaos mentioned, posting some photos would help us better understand the situation. Photo posting instructions are in the Photo Guidance section.





I use a Flanders Clubman sidecar handlebar on my moto. It has negative rise and less than 3" of pullback. I steer with the bar lightly gripped; wrist pain hasn't been a problem. What has been on your moto up until now?

[KappoBrick]

I mount the standard “S” short bars. I attempt the deflect the bars further down but the plate does not permit the switchgears to get into a comfortable position. I will post pictures tomorrow as its 12am and I have left the garage.

[frankenduck]

Why do you want to push the handlebars down as far as possible? Are you TRYING to cause wrist pain?

The first thing to do is make sure that the bars are centered in the handlebar clamps.  You can eyeball it or what I do is use fingers from each hand on each side to get them centered.

Leaving the handlebar clamps slightly loose, sit on the bike (on the center stand) and rotate the bars to a position that is comfortable for you. Then tighten down the handlebar clamps on the fork tree.

You can then rotate the clutch and throttle perches:

Then read the second post in this thread:
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=11295.0

[KappoBrick]

Im trying to give myself further arm stretch. Sportbike style handles are far more comfortable to me and dont cause nearly as much pain as other more relaxed leaning positions. Another issue is that even though I loosen the switchgears, the right side brake hose gets cinched (pictures to come) and wont allow it to get into proper angle.

[KappoBrick]

Maybe what I should be asking is what is the factory spec for the handlebars, then go from there? I read that I take a 1/4” material and pin it between the tank and handlebars and adjust til its snug?

[KappoBrick]

Brake line impeding moving the switchgears any further up the handlebars and angling them any further down.

[frankenduck]

Im trying to give myself further arm stretch. Sportbike style handles are far more comfortable to me and dont cause nearly as much pain as other more relaxed leaning positions. Another issue is that even though I loosen the switchgears, the right side brake hose gets cinched (pictures to come) and wont allow it to get into proper angle.

Why do you want further arm stretch? Your handlebars should be positioned so that you can bend your elbows and are putting as little upper body weight as possible, ideally none, on your hands.  A K75S is not a sport bike, it's a sport-touring bike.

[KappoBrick]

Why do you want further arm stretch? Your handlebars should be positioned so that you can bend your elbows and are putting as little upper body weight as possible, ideally none, on your hands.  A K75S is not a sport bike, it's a sport-touring bike.

Its simply uncomfortable for me to bend my arms with the bikes handlebars further forward past the center of the blocks. Im aware its a sport tourer but it’s uncomfortable how the PO has the handlebars. It seems as if they wanted to push the bars as far up and forward. It was awkward with my height and position as I would rather have my arms straight rather than in the more sphinx like position (first thing that came to mind).

[KappoBrick]

Why do you want further arm stretch? Your handlebars should be positioned so that you can bend your elbows and are putting as little upper body weight as possible, ideally none, on your hands.  A K75S is not a sport bike, it's a sport-touring bike.

I now understand what youre saying to an extent, but here is the issue im trying to describe. I mount the handlebars at 0* relative to the barblocks as a base fit. I cannot maneuver the switchgears, specifically the throttle side as the brake line is bending and blocking any further movement up the bar and rotation forward, but I am unsure what bolt I should loosen and how much air will get into the system when I do, permitting a future bleed which I am hesitant to do on a motorcycle. Attached is an image describing my problem, I apologize for being so vague or confusing.

[Laitch]

I am unsure what bolt I should loosen and how much air will get into the system when I do, permitting a future bleed which I am hesitant to do on a motorcycle.

You'll probably need to loosen both of them to determine a position suitable for adjusting the switch block. You'll need to learn how to bleed your brakes anyway, if you intend to be a serious rider because brakes should be bled every year. It's a relatively simply taske. If those are the original hoses, they're overdue for replacement.

Brake fluid will destroy paint so cover the tank and work carefully with rags ready to wipe up spills. For comparison, here's how another rider has configured that hose. Adding some length could be helpful. There are enough S owners here that one or two are likely to show other examples. Here's a link that shows an example at frankenduck's site, but according to him, he's just a shade-tree mechanic so watch out. 

[KappoBrick]

I know how to bleed brakes, ive done it many times on cars and 2 dirtbikes, but being as this is my 2nd form of transportation, having it out of action and working on it is cautionary for me. Also im young and I do all my wrenching so my confidence is slowly building but brakes scare me man, and I can’t exactly afford sending my bike to my local shop all the time as labour is expensive. Im sure you understand where im coming from here.

While im here, the bike has 11000 miles and its my first bike, I got it as a grad gift and it sat for 10 years, bjt its pristine. I put a stock exhaust as it had a loud Luftmeister and ordered stock handgrips. What else should I look out for as it sat so long? Forks? I did oil, FD and GB recently aswell. 

[Laitch]

Also im young and I do all my wrenching so my confidence is slowly building but brakes scare me man, and I can’t exactly afford sending my bike to my local shop all the time as labour is expensive. Im sure you understand where im coming from here.

I understand where you're coming from—a confusing place of self-professed experience governed by fear that you're allowing to stop your progress. If you have bled brakes on motorcycles that you have been able to stop by using the brakes after bleeding them, and if you can follow written instructions, you can bleed these. You don't have a choice apparently because money is in short supply. I'm not interested in how old you are. If you have a riders license, insurance and a fair degree of intelligence, you should do it. Because your butt and economic wellbeing are both on the line, I'm sure you'll do a good job with these. 

If you haven't taken the Motorcycle Safety Foundation basic rider course, register for the next one available. If you already have, get on with the work. Fear shouldn't stop you; it should make you a more careful and methodical worker. You'll get plenty of help here.

[KappoBrick]

I understand where you're coming frame—a confusing place of self-professed experience governed by fear that you're allowing to stop your progress. If you have bled brakes on motorcycles that you have been able to stop by using the brakes after bleeding them, and if you can follow written instructions, you can bleed these. You don't have a choice apparently because money is in short supply. I'm not interested in how old you are. If you have a riders license, insurance and a fair degree of intelligence, you should do it. Because your butt and economic wellbeing are both on the line, I'm sure you'll do a good job with these. 

If you haven't taken the Motorcycle Safety Foundation basic rider course, register for the next one available. If you already have, get on with the work. Fear shouldn't stop you; it should make you a more careful and methodical worker. You'll get plenty of help here.

I actually got my license in the MSF! I will take up the brake bleed shortly but also, how do I flush out the orange goop with non seal degrading chemicals? Ive heard many different takes from running brake fluid through over and over again to someone putting ATF through, any takes?

[Laitch]

I'm a big fan of only using DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid in these brake systems, instead of ATF, Mr. Clean, maple syrup or some other concoction. It will take a lot of flushing and you'll likely need to remove the pistons and seals, too, for a thorough job. The hose might be collapsing internally too. You'll find out.

You should download the BMW shop manual from this site, the Hayne's manual from here and get a Clymer manual. Between the three of them, you're likely to get a better understanding of procedures and you can ask for clarity at Motobrick.

[KappoBrick]

I'm a big fan of only using DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid in these brake systems, instead of ATF, Mr. Clean, maple syrup or some other concoction. It will take a lot of flushing and you'll likely need to remove the pistons and seals, too, for a thorough job. The hose might be collapsing internally too. You'll find out.

You should download the BMW shop manual from this site, the Hayne's manual from here and get a Clymer manual. Between the three of them, you're likely to get a better understanding of procedures and you can ask for clarity at Motobrick.

Much appreciated.

[frankenduck]

Per the BMW manuals, only use DOT 4 brake fluid.

If you loosen those brake hose bolts just enough to rotate the hoses a little then you can do that without introducing air into the system.

When you retighten them be sure not to exceed the BMW specified toque of 11Nm as going much beyond that can strip the threads and make it so that you have to replace the master cylinder.

I'm not a fan of that setup where the brakes go through the steering head so I came up with a simpler, fairly inexpensive, way to redo the K75 front brakes:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/2vbrakes/2vbrakes.htm

[Past-my-Prime]

To bleed my brakes, I set up a suction / vacuum (for oil changes) that connected directly to the calipers, and let it suck the fluid from the MC down with the shop-vac. A bottle of DOT-4 fluid isn't very expensive, and it'll clean things out nicely.

If you have ABS, you'll want to drain it at the ABS pumps first, then down at the calipers.

Bleeding the ucky gunk out of the brake lines was very satisfying!!

[KappoBrick]

To bleed my brakes, I set up a suction / vacuum (for oil changes) that connected directly to the calipers, and let it suck the fluid from the MC down with the shop-vac. A bottle of DOT-4 fluid isn't very expensive, and it'll clean things out nicely.

If you have ABS, you'll want to drain it at the ABS pumps first, then down at the calipers.

Bleeding the ucky gunk out of the brake lines was very satisfying!!

Havent got any of that equipment besides a shop-vac. Usually I do it by hand except once where I used a vac-gun and it was awful.

[Past-my-Prime]

I think it was about 20 bucks for the plastic jug that has one end that connects to the shop vac and the other end has a plastic hose that you can slide onto the brake bleed fitting. I've used it for changing oil on generators, lawn mowers, and the like but it's great for sucking out old brake fluid. It's called the Flon'go oil extractor system

https://www.ebay.com/p/1266903122

Here's one!

[Laitch]

Per the BMW manuals, only use DOT 4 brake fluid.

That's true; however, DOT 3 will make a suitable flushing fluid and any minuscule remainder would be compatible with DOT 4.

Usually I do it by hand except once where I used a vac-gun and it was awful.

Consider for a moment that you could have misunderstood how to use the system. Regardless, the main thing is to understand what you're doing, to understand why you're doing it, to get underway doing it, and to do it thoroughly with no short cuts or assumptions clouding the process. There are a couple of excellent illustrated threads here about brake system rehabilitation. There is also a guide here for how to search this site effectively.

If your moto doesn't have ABS, bleeding is uncomplicated; it's only slightly more complicated with ABS. The job will only be finished once the fluid is clear and the brake action is reliable.

[frankenduck]

There's really no need to vacuum bleed.  I have a Might-Vac but bleed the brakes manually unless I have some issue to address where the vacuum might help.  Manual bleeding on a bike is actually much easier than a car since you don't need two people.

For the front, squeeze the lever SLOWLY.

Before you start bleeding remove the reservoir cap and get all of the old fluid out with a syringe or paper towels. Then refill it with fresh DOT 4. There's no sense in running all of that old fluid through the system.

Do not worry if you get brake fluid on paint.  Yes, it's bad for paint but if you just wipe it off with a water soaked rag or paper towel then the paint will be fine since brake fluid is water soluble. It does not eat through paint as quickly as the blood of the creature from the movie Alien would.

[Past-my-Prime]

It does not eat through paint as quickly as the blood of the creature from the movie Alien would.

Hahahahaha