TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. > Project Classic Motobricks
Restoration: 1995 K1100RS for under a grand?
Rcgreaves:
So last weekend several gagged and coughed up their coffee when I posted my Craigslist find, a $500 Brick.
The world seems a more lovely place knowing a Motronic equipped, 4 puck Brembo, liter + brick can be had and potentially road/track worthy for under a grand.. Anyway that’s my goal.
Did I mention the near complete tool kit, pristine (French bread basket luggage...) tragkorbs..tragborgs,whatever, and Michelin Pilot radials with plenty o Tread? “Score!”.
I’m scratch building a hack BTW, see the sidecar forum, maybe once sorted this will end up married to my creation. I’m hard pressed to consider carving up my K75S fairing for a hack. Some own sculpture, I appreciate these sculpted fairings, and the RS is no slouch, great profile!
So the battery was toast as per normal. Online Amazon Westco source was only $80 but I spotted a sealed unit at Walmart $95. Unearthing the battery is a project: it’s buried under the Motronic fuel injection controller, connectors require time, coffee and patience. At nearly 25 years of age, I found a couple harnesses with worn out, UV degraded sheathing. One fits tightly behind the battery base so I removed it all and added a layer of Tygon fuel line then wrapped with electricians tape. The Motronic ground connector was very loose a few crimps and that was tight. Shiney battery connector terminals and voila... fire it up already...
So I bought it sight unseen from a phone call. 5 minutes later the PayPal funds were gone...I would have missed out otherwise. So the first twist of the key was ....key. It fired right off. Engine sounds sweet, tranny snick snick snicks...nicely. See me twist the key here:
So first the positives:
I rode it a few miles and checked all the systems. Shifts felt fantastic, solid, nice. Steering, handling...it feels really planted and predictable, better than my K75 in need of head stock bearings and a shorter overall seat height...Overall, as advertised.
So the negatives: I bought it knowing it needs a engine to tranny Input/output seal. It leaked on the trailer but so far nothing on the garage floor. The clutch started to slip when I gave it some abrupt twist. Clearly the clutch in contaminated with oil.
Front brakes were unremarkable so I jumped off for a closer look. Right front strut leaking and drooling all over the caliper and rotor. So the front struts need a rebuild Seat is starting to tear at the stitching in the usual spots. Aft compartment cover under seat has a broken tab. Rear ABS seemed to be activating too strongly.
Reviewers describe this bike as “buzzy” at high revs and I sensed that,. At 5000 rpm it sounded mechanical. Valves maybe? Anyway my K75 spins right up to redline very smoothly...Hopefully this will too though I recognize
These to be very different animals. What does yours do?
So that’s about it, for first impressions.
Input shaft seal: what’s the right source? Is this OEM only, have improvements been made? Ive read EVERY K1100 eats this seal at 80k.
Clutch, o. Ring will get replaced
Spline service of course.
All the fluids are dated so I’ll probably do the brakes and final drive before tackling the big job.
I have a hectic summer family vacation schedule that Includes completing resto to our camper so this may sit several months before I strip it down. I imagine the clutch will deteriorate if I drive it. I may sort the other Stuff and just do that nevertheless. Worst case is the clutch slips a lot right. PO added a nifty manual on off for the fan. Just tooling around it was two ticks below the red.
Think I can keep the parts list to $400? Make that $350 as I bought all the necessary fluids. Cheers all.
Scott_:
Unless you are going to be riding this bike before you take out the transmission, I wouldn't worry about flushing the brake fluid. As this bike is ABS 2, you will find the transmission removal way easier by removing the ABS controller. I've done it both ways, for me personally I'd remove again the next time.
Rcgreaves:
--- Quote from: Scott_ on June 23, 2019, 08:30:04 AM ---Unless you are going to be riding this bike before you take out the transmission, I wouldn't worry about flushing the brake fluid. As this bike is ABS 2, you will find the transmission removal way easier by removing the ABS controller. I've done it both ways, for me personally I'd remove again the next time.
--- End quote ---
T
Scott hi, so admittedly this is my first dance with this model so what you mean then is— space wise it’s easier to get at the tranny by removing the abs controller right? So when I do that I guess the fluid is drained so no sense swapping fluid now.. right? Thanks for the tips
Scott_:
Yep, that's what I'm saying..
There are a few things that need/should come out to facilitate the removal of the transmission.
One being the cross brace between the foot-peg side plates. The battery tray is bolted to this cross brace, and there is a fastener for this tray under the ABS unit. Trying to move the ABS around and working around it all the time, in my opinion, puts extra stress/strain on the steel brake lines as you are flexing them around, as well as the point that this thing is not a featherweight part to keep hanging somewhere.
My 1st venture in removing the transmission from my '97 I tried to leave the ABS connected as I didn't want to mess with draining the brakes nor did I want to try and unwire the sealed electrical box(that's another issue that is addressed with pictures in the service manual). I also tried to leave the swing arm and FD connected to the tranny as well.... All I was trying to do was a simple spline lube...
In the end I spend more time f-ing around trying to leave stuff connected and undamaged than if I had just taken it all apart in the 1st place... I learned this the next time when I did my '95 a few years later.
billday:
The tires may have plenty of tread, but check the manufacture date on the sidewall before you take them out on the road.
Great find, looking forward to following this project!
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