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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Stock Rear Shock Dissection
« Last post by The Mighty Gryphon on Today at 09:48:11 AM »
For what they need to do, the factory shocks are more than adequate.  A bike like a ours is sold to people of many sizes and requirements.  Large people who want to ride aggressively, smaller people who want to commute back and forth to work, passengers, luggage and camping gear.  Smooth roads, and terrible roads.  The interstate and canyons.  The factory has to find some kind of happy medium, and not spend a ton of money doing it.

Factory marketing types know that there is a large aftermarket for suspension upgrades with a range of performance and price points that will meet most riders requirements.  It makes no sense to the factory to add more cost to an already expensive machine to include a rear shock that many owners will replace as soon as possible.  A good middle of the road unit that will last 4-5 years is all the bike needs to get off the showroom floor.  Then the owner can replace it with something that makes his a$$ happier.
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Years ago I had the water temp sensor on my K100 fail by telling the computer that it was super cold and needed more fuel to run.  It would spit raw fuel out of the exhaust pipe.

Frank
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Stock Rear Shock Dissection
« Last post by Martin on Today at 01:20:32 AM »
RAD Shock Absorbers in Brisbane QLD does rebuild the OEM shocks and they are improved. However switching to a YSS was a bigger improvement.
Regards Martin.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Stock Rear Shock Dissection
« Last post by lmiklosy on May 17, 2022, 10:44:21 PM »
Has anyone here disassembled a stock shock absorber from the K75/K100's to understand why their performance is so mediocre ?  I mean a dissection of the damper to examine parts and materials causing the sticktion and top-out behavior of this shock.   :idunno: There are posts here about Worx shock rebuilds but I'm interested in why the standard parts are so poor compared to Progressive, FOX, Worx and others.   

Danke Schoen!
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Project Custom Motobricks / Re: Buzzing when turn signal.
« Last post by Steviescumbag on May 17, 2022, 10:06:41 PM »
Update:
This worked, my blinkers work fine and are even blinking again normal rate.
Thank you for the help. It was so easy to do.

I even found a video the helped me get into the relay . Here it is


Thanks again
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: 1993 K75 fuel level float o-ring
« Last post by daveson on May 17, 2022, 08:00:28 PM »
In other words, and a shaky memory, remove the sender, place the o-ring in its location on the outside of the tank, then replace the sender. Therefore it doesn't have to be stretched over the base.

With the tank upside down on something soft to protect the paint, if you feel any resistance when installing the sender, stop. Look to make sure the float isn't on the wrong side of the drain pipes or other obstructions. Make sure the o-ring contact surfaces are clean and smooth.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: 1993 K75 fuel level float o-ring
« Last post by Martin on May 17, 2022, 07:25:18 PM »
And, what's wrong with spewing fire???? And I also refuse unconditionally to speak or spell American.
Regards Martin.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: K75 running worse when warm but fan kicks on fine.
« Last post by X5acob on May 17, 2022, 07:00:39 PM »
Yea, changed it last year. And it's running rich. I don't think a clogged fuel filter is my issue.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: 1993 K75 fuel level float o-ring
« Last post by frankenduck on May 17, 2022, 06:56:19 PM »
Empty and remove the tank. Remove the fuel filler cap assembly. Disconnect the wiring to the fuel pump. Remove the four Phillip's head mounting screws, be careful not to strip the heads. Once the screws are removed with a bit of wangling the sender unit can be removed. It helps to observe with a torch which way you have to orientate the sender as you remove it. Remove the old "O" ring and fit the new one making sure as you reassemble it that the "O" ring is properly seated. A small dab of silicone grease can help keeping it in place. Tighten the screws evenly.
Regards Martin.

In the US we call a flashlight a flashlight, not a torch. A torch is something that spews fire. :laughing4-giggles:
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: 1993 K75 fuel level float o-ring
« Last post by Martin on May 17, 2022, 05:25:39 PM »
Empty and remove the tank. Remove the fuel filler cap assembly. Disconnect the wiring to the fuel pump. Remove the four Phillip's head mounting screws, be careful not to strip the heads. Once the screws are removed with a bit of wangling the sender unit can be removed. It helps to observe with a torch which way you have to orientate the sender as you remove it. Remove the old "O" ring and fit the new one making sure as you reassemble it that the "O" ring is properly seated. A small dab of silicone grease can help keeping it in place. Tighten the screws evenly.
Regards Martin.
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