Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Just got my injectors serviced.  Only 5-10% flow loss across injectors so the problem is definitely not in the injectors.  Will install next week in addition to the temp gauge and report back on the fix. 

Will likely look at coils next. 
2
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Dash Plate Alignment on 1991 K75s?
« Last post by jad01 on Today at 10:29:54 AM »
I'm a big fan of only using DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid in these brake systems, instead of ATF, Mr. Clean, maple syrup or some other concoction.
Let's not be too hasty here and discount maple syrup... it has a low boiling point but IS acceptable if you have waffles for knee grip pads. :laughing1: :lets-eat:
3
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Metal shavings in gear oil
« Last post by moto1337 on October 18, 2021, 10:47:24 PM »
It's possible that the previous owner replaced the oil seal if that was required during re-installation of the grub screw in the shift lever. That's the one repair I'm aware of.
4
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Transmission Problem or Just clutch?
« Last post by daveson on October 18, 2021, 09:07:40 PM »
 I had problems upshifting gears when I got a brick, partly cause I rode mostly Japanese bikes, and mostly cruisers, where you tend to change gears at low revs. At higher revs and a few other changes, before long it will be a thing of the past with difficult changes.

If engagement is too late on everything manual you've owned, that sounds like a symptom of being born frustrated. Bike riding could be one of the cures.
5
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Transmission Problem or Just clutch?
« Last post by Laitch on October 18, 2021, 08:31:37 PM »
. . . upshifting is where I usually saw more difficulty. Sometimes it won't go all the way in gear and I need to "re-upshift" for the gear to engage.
Your description squares with a worn out clutch disc and/or worn clutch cable. It depends partially on whether the moto has been regularly given a competent by-the-BMW-book clutch adjustment. Inspecting the clutch pack would be helpful, after you locate the source of the screaming first.

A transmission input shaft spline lube can be good for 40K miles—perhaps longer—if was done on a cleaned splines with the appropriate paste and technique.

Keep us posted.
6
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Electrical gremlins
« Last post by Filmcamera on October 18, 2021, 07:45:15 PM »
When did you last check the condition of the heat sink paste on the ignition amplifier? If it has deteriorated, it can cause power problems. The mating surfaces of both the ignition amplifier and its retaining plate (green arrows) should be clean, a thin coating of paste is applied to both of them then they are bolted together.  Here's a thread for reference.


I replaced the heat sink paste two years ago so it should be good, but I will keep it in mind if other things do not fix the issue, thanks
7
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Electrical gremlins
« Last post by Filmcamera on October 18, 2021, 07:44:09 PM »
If the throttle position sensor is mis-adjusted it can affect performance.  Normally it messes up the idle along with it, but it's worth checking.

Do you know how to set the idle position on the throttle position sensor by grounding the pin on the diagnostic plug?   

Here's how you can do it.

http://www.largiader.com/articles/motronic.html

 "We can do a quick check of the TPS setting on Motronic 2.2 (and I think 2.1) using the 3 position diagnostic connector. I've tested this on my '96 R1100RT and it works.  I'll check my '93 K1100LT (MA 2.1) one of these days and let you know but I'm pretty sure it works the same and in addition, it lights the TEMP lamp so you don't even need the LED.

Ignition OFF
Ground Pin #3
LED + on Battery + terminal
LED - on Pin #1
Ignition ON

Now you should see the LED lit.  Slightly opening the throttle should make the LED go out.  If so, your TPS is within factory range."


Hello,


Yes I have done that, the last time was maybe 18 months ago but it was fine then.  I shall recheck it, good idea, thanks.
8
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Metal shavings in gear oil
« Last post by The Mighty Gryphon on October 18, 2021, 07:32:05 PM »
Got it! 

My money is on the metal being from an oil seal.  So, is there any leakage or oil seal replacement in this bike's past?
9
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Metal shavings in gear oil
« Last post by moto1337 on October 18, 2021, 07:02:54 PM »
Apologies, I’m new to the site and still figuring out how to best post photos — if you click the “imgut” link above there is a quarter for scale.
10
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Transmission Problem or Just clutch?
« Last post by bornfrustrated on October 18, 2021, 06:33:36 PM »

Does the noise sound like this and are the circumstances that produce the noise the same?


That's pretty close to what it sounds like and under the same conditions. Great video by the way for what I was describing. I guess I'll pull the rear shaft and the transmission this weekend to see what those splines look like. Clutch spline lube I've read is good for about 40k? At least that's what I've heard for '90+ bricks.

I was referring to free play in the gear shift lever.

No freeplay in the gear shift lever. Also, downshifting isn't usually an issue unless I've stopped and I'm going into first. I've usually chalked this up to manual transmission stuff just being slightly out of alignment and a quick/short engage/disengage of the clutch lever remedies any difficulty.

Also I don't know if this is part of it or a separate issue, but upshifting is where I usually saw more difficulty. Sometimes it won't go all the way in gear and I need to "re-upshift" for the gear to engage.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10