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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Fuel pump does not stay energized while cranking
« Last post by daveson on Today at 08:14:12 AM »Bonus. It's good to see an occasional thread that has a quick fix.
Community of BMW K75 K100 K1 K1100 Indestructible Flying Brick Riders
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Fuel pump does not stay energized while cranking
« Last post by Bigtater on April 27, 2024, 11:31:34 PM »Thanks for the reply daveson.
I did figure out the issue. It was a two part issue.
First, I re-did the fuel pump connector. At this point, the fuel pump would run constantly. It would run whether the key was on or off, but would lose voltage when attempting to start the bike.
After reviewing the wiring diagrams some more I found I determined to pull the fuel pump relay and preform resistance checks. I found the load side of the relay had continuity constantly. I swapped the relay with a spare relay and boom! Problem solved! The bike now has voltage on the green/white wire while cranking and running.
I did figure out the issue. It was a two part issue.
First, I re-did the fuel pump connector. At this point, the fuel pump would run constantly. It would run whether the key was on or off, but would lose voltage when attempting to start the bike.
After reviewing the wiring diagrams some more I found I determined to pull the fuel pump relay and preform resistance checks. I found the load side of the relay had continuity constantly. I swapped the relay with a spare relay and boom! Problem solved! The bike now has voltage on the green/white wire while cranking and running.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Fork rebuild - parts list
« Last post by BaneMaker on April 27, 2024, 05:22:23 PM »Thank you much gents - I’ll try the cleaning. What do you think about the parts - provided I DO get in there. Bushings?
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Fork rebuild - parts list
« Last post by frankenduck on April 27, 2024, 02:39:19 PM »Just get the OEM fork seals.
The factory springs are progressively wound. (for 4 valve Ks) You only need new springs if you want stiffer springs.
You can make your own fork seal cleaner out of a thin piece of plastic like a plastic business card.
The factory springs are progressively wound. (for 4 valve Ks) You only need new springs if you want stiffer springs.
You can make your own fork seal cleaner out of a thin piece of plastic like a plastic business card.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Valve clearance too tight on exhaust
« Last post by The Mighty Gryphon on April 27, 2024, 01:43:28 PM »I would suspect that part of the reasoning for replacement is that the manufacturer has no control over how the machine is operated. Are shifts being done without benefit of clutch disengagement, or is the operator riding like an old fart?
I can see the shock loads when bang shifting being pretty tough on clutch bolts(as well as splines and transmission bits), as opposed to smoothly disengaging and re-engaging the clutch when shifting. Shifting gently makes it possible for me to save a bunch of cash when I service my clutch.
I can see the shock loads when bang shifting being pretty tough on clutch bolts(as well as splines and transmission bits), as opposed to smoothly disengaging and re-engaging the clutch when shifting. Shifting gently makes it possible for me to save a bunch of cash when I service my clutch.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Fork rebuild - parts list
« Last post by The Mighty Gryphon on April 27, 2024, 01:30:37 PM »Welcome, frequently, the cause of leaky forks is s bit of dirt caught on the lip of the seal. A little hook made from the plastic of a water bottle can be slipped into the gap to pull out the dirt that is causing the trouble. It doesn't work every time, but often enough to make it worthwhile trying.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/152264097610?
Once you have forks working without leaks, it is wise to install fork boots to keep the seals clean. In the U.S. we use Rancho 1952 shock boots.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/235522168984?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/152264097610?
Once you have forks working without leaks, it is wise to install fork boots to keep the seals clean. In the U.S. we use Rancho 1952 shock boots.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/235522168984?
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Rear luggage racks and top cases
« Last post by spencer802 on April 27, 2024, 09:15:10 AM »Thanks much!
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Photographic Ride Reports / Re: Motorbike museum visit
« Last post by K75user1979 on April 27, 2024, 08:50:16 AM »Installed the engine cowl as I have just done an oil change. I should fit the tragkorb and get some photos of it complete.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Valve clearance too tight on exhaust
« Last post by daveson on April 27, 2024, 02:20:59 AM »The bloke with a beard in the sky, If your'e wondering what he looks like (and turn up the volume) since we're not even worthy of casting an optical nerve in the general direction of his supreme perfectness, this is what he looks like:
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The Motobrick Workshop / Fork rebuild - parts list
« Last post by BaneMaker on April 27, 2024, 01:58:08 AM »Greeting and salutations - and thx for the membership. I’m new here, so a little background.
Chemical engineer, Denmark, 48 yo, got my motorbike license late in life (thank god), have 6 years of experience on my first bike (2018 R nine T). Ok competent for anything mechanical, but haven’t been wrenching on K bikes - ever.
I am going to pick up a 1993 K1100LT with 68000 km on the odo, and it has a leaky front fork that needs fixing asap. One issue is the obvious brake issue, but another is that it cannot get its MOT with it - and that is required for ownership change in this country. Well so I have to move fast.
Anyway - as I am going in, I want to make sure I change the parts that makes sense. I was planning on:
CLYMER MANUAL
Seals (what quality to get in EU if not OEM?)
Dust boots
Progressive springs (looking at RSK speedworks or Wilbers)
10w oil
What else? The copper/teflon sliding bushings for instance? Would you put gaters on it?
Appreciate any help for a noob.
Chemical engineer, Denmark, 48 yo, got my motorbike license late in life (thank god), have 6 years of experience on my first bike (2018 R nine T). Ok competent for anything mechanical, but haven’t been wrenching on K bikes - ever.
I am going to pick up a 1993 K1100LT with 68000 km on the odo, and it has a leaky front fork that needs fixing asap. One issue is the obvious brake issue, but another is that it cannot get its MOT with it - and that is required for ownership change in this country. Well so I have to move fast.
Anyway - as I am going in, I want to make sure I change the parts that makes sense. I was planning on:
CLYMER MANUAL
Seals (what quality to get in EU if not OEM?)
Dust boots
Progressive springs (looking at RSK speedworks or Wilbers)
10w oil
What else? The copper/teflon sliding bushings for instance? Would you put gaters on it?
Appreciate any help for a noob.