Back on the Back,…brakes again.

[KCinSB]

After the Jan 2 post, RE: Rear brake hose replacement, which turned out to be a long search for a SS line supplier, I have it together again. So now to bleed this ABS1 system:  http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1135.0  Is very helpful, but since it’s 10 years old was curious if there is any additional info or cautions that’s been gathered? I expected to bleed the system like my ‘56 Chevy, but  as others have found when you look at the book, … “Take it to the dealer, have them bleed the brakes” ! Got concerned. So, looking at the tech page referenced, if it’s OK to use a Vacuum bleeder, what was the concern that recommended a dealer visit? Even if I wanted to hauled the bike to the dealer, my experience there has been sideways looks if you don’t have a newer bike.
  Are you guys bleeding the ABS1 rear system with a vacuum bleeder assist?  Also, the speed bleeder size question was not answered on the tech page. Got a nice chart posted, but too much information! Does anyone have that size info handy?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Bleeding the rear ABS1 system is pretty easy.  Empty the reservoir and put some fresh DOT4 in it.  Start at the modulator, crack the bleeder, push the pedal, close the bleeder, SLOWLY raise the pedal.  Repeat until you have clear fluid at the modulator.

Then repeat at the rear caliper.  Whole job shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes.

I tried using a vacuum bleeder, but it sucked air in around the threads of the bleeder fitting and I could never be sure I had all the air out of the system.  Bleeding took longer with it.

[Laitch]

Also, the speed bleeder size question was not answered on the tech page. Got a nice chart posted, but too much information!

I believe I understand now why procedures seem so complicated out there.  Regardless, the following information is on the Speed Bleeder tech page. When the category in the header at the red arrow was clicked, I chose BMW in the menu that opened, then the table appeared below it and could be scrolled down to the information in the red box; of course, neither the arrow nor the box was there until I dragged that page into my laboratory. 

[frankenduck]

I'm with MG.  Just bleed the normal manual way. No need for speed bleeder or vac tool.

[KCinSB]

Thanks for the replies!!
Will report results,……. If interested….    🙄

[Laitch]

No need for speed bleeder or vac tool.

Speed bleeders just make a tedious job less tedious for some people, therefore likely to be performed more often.   Vac tools just suck. 

[Past-my-Prime]

Speed bleeders just make a tedious job less tedious for some people, therefore likely to be performed more often.   Vac tools just suck. 

I thought I was being very smart, using a vacuum sucker with a shop vac. That is until I fried the electric motor of the shop vac because there was insufficient airflow.
So they suck until they stop sucking. And then they only suck money out of your bank account as you go and buy another shop vac. In my experience at least.

The front brakes are a bit harder to bleed. I used a bungy cord on the brake lever and opened the bleeder for the ugly brown gunk to come out, then release so fresh fluid flowed in and repeated about 25 times until the fluid was clear. Not neglecting to keep refilling the reservoir

[The Mighty Gryphon]

The front on ABS1 is the pain in the butt.  You need long arms to reach the bleeder on the modulator and the front brake lever. 

The front caliper is a little easier, but still a reach.  Realizing that negligence regarding brake maintenance can lead to costly master cylinder replacement provides me the incentive to do the job.

[Laitch]

You need long arms to reach the bleeder on the modulator and the front brake lever.  The front caliper is a little easier, but still a reach.

That's why I've used speed bleeders for nine years. Stretching is used on the exercise mat, climbing out of spruce traps on snowshoes, and truth-telling.

[KCinSB]

Done, working, anti-skid functional checked OK. Whoopee!
Used the jiffy Ajax vacuum bleeder on the ABS unit, for hose from MC to ABS. That worked OK as bleeder has O-Ring.
The caliper bleeder fitting does not have the O-Ring like the ABS bleeder, so it did suck air from around the threads as mentioned above. Still, vacuum system did pull fluid, and discounting the air after the bleeder, was a help. THEN, finished with the pump pedal method. Good hard pedal.
(had a thought later, after finished: maybe a careful wrap of thread tape on that bleeder would help with the air suck?)
Still waiting on one order of 2 hoses. Guess I’ll post them for sale if they ever do get here…..  Thanks for the info help above here!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

NEVER use Teflon tape on brake systems.

[KCinSB]

Amazing …,

[frankenduck]

NEVER use Teflon tape on brake systems.

What he said. Don't use it.