Thank You!

I know its probably not this easy but...is your battery nice and charged?  Should read over 13v w a multimeter if it is.  Bike wont even crank if your battery gets too low, but your headlight would still turn on.

If its low, you'll need to figure out if your alternator is charging your battery, or if you just have a bad battery.

It's a computer coolant reservoir.  You have to build them yourself.  Luckily, I just did it and can give you all the details:

1. You need the reservoir.  You can use any you like, but if you want one with metal caps on them, they can be hard to find, and you need one that is about 6" tall(might be 6.5" total room available with the hoses installed) or less in order to fit in the location you are looking at in your photo.  I used this one by  bykski(this seller has a few colors)...it was 200mm x 50mm in size....which it too tall, but it has the nice metal caps that are hard to find
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293215153268

Then I had to order a shorter one from the same manufacturer at 150mm x 50mm like this one, and swap the acrylic tube to make one small enough to fit the location:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801135139112.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller.1.1f5dkHP6kHP6oH&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=f2552485-4403-4485-b445-8888d369876c&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:f2552485-4403-4485-b445-8888d369876c,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238112%231997&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2116.15%2114.21%21%21%2116.15%2114.21%21%40210318ec17374903196041473ecb1a%2112000029289928690%21rec%21US%21%21ABX&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A


2. After this, you need is fittings.  The fitting size is g1/4.  I used the plugs I got with the 2nd 150mm tube I ordered on aliexpress for most of the holes.  For the very top hole, I drilled a very small hole in one of the threaded g1/4 plugs.  YOu can buy g1/4 pressure valves, but I dont trust them as they are 1-way valves and will allow for a vacuum  to build in your system when the bike is cool.  Its better to have a small hole similar to how the OEM reservoir was so the system can breathe properly.  You will also need a g1/4 to 1/4"(or 6mm)  hose barb to connect it to the hose barb that comes off the OEM fill spout(next to the coolant cap). I recommend a straight barb fitting instead of the 90 degree one I used.  Use any water hose you want to connect them.  I have a clear braided pressure hose on mine in the pic below.

3. You will  need to fashion a bracket to hold this.  If you buy the 50mm reservoir, you can use this round bracket I found on ebay...it requires a little minor modification: https://www.ebay.com/itm/222530274748

-in addition, you will need to fabricate a small flat bracket to connect the round bracket to the frame.  I have a file you can send to sendcutsend.com if you want to do something pretty, or you can just make it in your garage out of 1/8" thick alloy sheet metal.

Here is what mine looks like


You can build it however you like, there are a lot of of these computer coolant reservoirs out there.  Most of them are 100% plastic, which is fine and they'll work, but finding a nice metal cap one like this is hard. Most of the metal cap ones look cheesy like some gamer nerd made it "tacticool". 

BTW, no, the acrylic will NOT overheat and crack or have any damage at all.  The overflow tank will ONLY be hot very briefly when the coolant initially enters the reservoir.  It will cool off VERY rapidly if there is already some coolant in that reservoir, and the metal caps will act as heat sinks to further cool it down.  After the coolant is in there, no more coolant will go in there, and it doesnt circulate with the coolant as the bike runs.  It will be 100% cool to the touch within minutes of filling up. Many people have used these computer cooling reservoirs as radiator pukes on custom builds.



The entire cost to build the one I build was probably about  $60 including the brackets and fittings.


Edit: BTW, I note that the pic you used has green coolant.  You'll see I used blue.  Dont mix them, use whatever your bike already has in it.  If you want to change the coolant color, you need to completely flush your system with distilled water a few times...nd make sure you remove the thermostat so you can flush the entire radiator(put it back once flushed).  I completely rebuilt my cooling system (including redoing pump seals and impeller), so my system was brand new when I chose the blue coolant(engine ice).

K75 spark plug leads have a "resistive gap" in them. They're an open circuit if you apply an ohmmeter to them.

A little voice told me to hold off on ordering those cables. I did a search for troubleshooting the ignition system (obviously from some "lesser" website) and that's where I got those ohm readings from, but I also found it strange that all three cables were equally "bad". While it's good news that I didn't waste money on unnecessary new parts, now I'm going to have to dig deeper as to why I'm not getting any spark. I already disconnected and cleaned the connectors for both the ignition and fuel injection control units, I did the same to the ground lug under the tank. I know there's voltage going to the coils, but if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly (a challenge as the aviation-grade schematics I'm familiar with use a very different format), the ICU controls the ignition pulses via the ground using data from the HES.

I guess it's back to the drawing board, I have a copy of Bert's troubleshooting guide and I'll have to patiently go through each step. Tedious but certainly better than just firing the parts cannon, especially considering how much the ammo costs.

Thanks as always Duck for the heads up, I appreciate how everyone has been patient with this newbie and keeping me from doing something stupid. Believe my I'll need all the help I can get in that department!

Start button rehab:
https://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/startkillrehab/startkillrehab.htm