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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: Bassv on March 02, 2013, 12:03:59 PM
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Hello fellow brickriders!
Last week I bought a K75 RT. Build in 1991 and 134.500 km driven. It's my second bike since I got my license two years ago. My previous bike was a Yamaha FJ600 from 1990. I must say this BMW is a MAJOR upgrade :yes
I've done some small maintenance jobs already and I want to share some stuff with you people.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img195/6254/dsc01270pb.jpg)
Today I went to my local BMW dealer and bought the oval plastic rings for the windscreen. There are eight of them in the windscreen and they had all disformed on my bike.
Before
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/811/img1236fz.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/img1236fz.jpg/)
After
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/69/img1237m.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/img1237m.jpg/)
I also wanted to replace the gasket of the fuelcap, because it was in a very bad state. So the dealer searched in the computer for the partnumber and said: "Hmm, that's too bad. They are out of production." For the kit that is btw. But then he found one last gasket kit on the shelve. The very last one :eek:
So I was very lucky and replaced the main (foam) gasket, two blue gasket rings, a metal ring and another rubber ring. Really easy job. This video on youtube helped me a lot!
BMW Service - K75, K100, K1, K1100 Fuel Cap Rebuild (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mwpt9IumBCc#ws)
Total costs 20 euro (about 15 dollar?). 14 for the kit, 6 for the windscreen rings.
Look at that gasket! It's made of some kind of foam, which doesn't last forever.
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/819/img1238sd.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/img1238sd.jpg/)
After. Nice :yes
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/189/img1239ye.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/img1239ye.jpg/)
I've also tried to clean the windscreen. It is all yellow and faded. I bought Turtle Wax Headlight Restorer and gave it a try. Well, at least the surface of the screen has become very smooth, but it's still very hard to look through. Too bad. Since I had the stuff, I also cleaned the headlight. Which helped! Nice.
Screen after the Turtle Wax Headlight Restorer treatment. No big difference.
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/94/img1234yb.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/94/img1234yb.jpg/)
Bye for now!
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I was thinking, maybe this has to be moved to the lieberry section...?? It's not a project that I'm going to modify my bike in any way...
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Nah, it's fine here.
Is that a BMW windscreen? If it is then the reason it's hard to polish is that BMW puts some sort of coating on them. It's not the actual windscreen that yellows but the coating. At least that's what I've heard.
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Welcome. Thanks for the pics and the stories. Enjoy.
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Is that a BMW windscreen? If it is then the reason it's hard to polish is that BMW puts some sort of coating on them. It's not the actual windscreen that yellows but the coating. At least that's what I've heard.
Yes, it looks like an original one. Thanks for the info. Didn't know that! So better stop polishing...
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Couple of years ago I bought some Megurs (sp) fine polish, along with a lambs wool ball that attaches to a drill. Those two and some very fine 2000 grit sandpaper took a old Windjammer plexiglass and turned it new. Takes lots of time and polish, but it turned out great. Not sure of the BMW windshield, but you got nothing to lose now?
Also try headlight restoring products.
Bob
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A new screen is around the same price as a new tire.
I got one from Cee Bailey's. They make airplane windshields and can make a stock shield for $100.oo.
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A new screen is around the same price as a new tire.
I got one from Cee Bailey's. They make airplane windshields and can make a stock shield for $100.oo.
That's interesting that you say that because they don't list the K75RT or 100RT in their on-line catalog. (are you sure?)
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A new screen is around the same price as a new tire.
I got one from Cee Bailey's. They make airplane windshields and can make a stock shield for $100.oo.
That's interesting that you say that because they don't list the K75RT or 100RT in their on-line catalog. (are you sure?)
Cee Bailey makes a windscreen for the electric windscreen used on 94/95 K75RTs and K1100LTs. Not applicable to RT/LT bikes with a fixed windscreen.
Twisted throttle has some for the fixed windscreen: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/shop-by-bike/bmw/k75-k100-k100lt-k100rs-k100rt-k1100lt-k1100rs-90-97 (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/shop-by-bike/bmw/k75-k100-k100lt-k100rs-k100rt-k1100lt-k1100rs-90-97)
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Today I changed the oil and the oilfilter at km 134.600. What a messy job this is! Mainly because the oilfilter is in the oilpan and covered in oil. This is new to me. My previous bike (Yamaha) was a lot easier and less messy.
(http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/6698/img1244jh.jpg)
Anyway, I managed to drain the oil and got the oilfilter out with the special tool (right side of the picture). The oil was very dark and a lot of grit or sand was in it. I wonder what year the oil was changed of this bike... But what really concerns me is the fact that I found a chip of metal (or stone?) lying on the oilfilter cover! :eek2:
(http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/4406/img1245b.jpg)
Any palm readers here? :laugh
I have absolutely no idea what it can be. I don't think it's metal, because it's black (or it is painted black). Maybe the previous oil change was done in a dirty environment and it got in while doing the job. As you might see it's quite big and thick. Hmm, not happy with this! Actually, I discovered that the whole bottom of the filtercover was covered with small black pieces. Maybe it's just dirt or gravel. The drain plug itself was clean.
I replaced the o-ring of the cover, the ring of the drainplug and the rubber o-ring of the oil top up plug at the top. I topped the engine up with 15W40 semi-synthetic oil. We'll see how it goes. I topped it up just under the top of the circle of the glass, because the oilfilter has to fill with oil too. And of course I'll check again the next time I'll ride the bike.
Toptip: the oilfiltercover can only be placed back in one position. So don't do like me, turning one screw almost all the way in and then find out that the second one doesn't fit... haha!
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What with getting out a lump like that and other gritty stuff I would've been tempted to remove the sump/oilpan to see what else was floating around in there. In any case, it might be worth doing another oil change sooner than the service interval and draining through a fine sieve (I always drain through a sieve anyway) just to check nothing else is waiting for you...
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I'd be tempted to take the pan off too. No need to remove the entire sump, just the pan on the bottom. It's not a big job.
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If the PO used Fram oil filters then the black stuff could be from that? Just a thought.
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I'd be tempted to take the pan off too. No need to remove the entire sump, just the pan on the bottom. It's not a big job.
There's that terminology thing creeping in again :laugh
This is the bit I meant, and I assume you do too, part no.1:
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/e/a/9.png)
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You have a couple of choices for new windshields. Parabellum, Clearview and BMW are the 3 that I checked out before replacing mine. The other big name windshield companies didn't stock or didn't/wouldn't make them. Aeroflow told me they never made a shield for the RT. Cee Bailey never responded to my inquires by email or telephone. I chose the Parabellum and have been pleased with the coverage and look.
Here's another source MRA http://www.twistedthrottle.com/mra-touringscreen-arizona-edition-windshield-for-bmw-k75rt-k75lt-k100rt-k100lt-w-inst-console (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/mra-touringscreen-arizona-edition-windshield-for-bmw-k75rt-k75lt-k100rt-k100lt-w-inst-console)
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Re: Windscreen: I do not know the seller but this post has been online for a while. Bet he'd take less $$.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mcy/3639102705.html (http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mcy/3639102705.html)
My RT windscreen was also foggy and I decided to have it cut lower so that I could look over it rather than through it. Ended up being a good solution. Cost about $50.
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Just got back from a ski vacation (not with the K75), but I will drain the oil soon and check it again. It also might be a good idea to remove the oilpan too. Wish I'd thought of that before topping it up with oil again :zzz:
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Front tire was deflating very fast. In two days time pressure has dropped from 2,3 to 0,95 bar. So I started to look for a leak. I put some handsoap mixed with a little bit of water around the valve and guess what: bubbles immediately. Well, leak found I guess. So today I went to a local BMW mechanic and had the valve replaced. Hope this keeps me from inflating the tyres twice a week.
I also bought a cover for the rear brake caliper, since I found out that it was missing. Causing a lot of dirt getting onto the brakepads :eek2:
Total cost: 18,50 Euro :yes
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/841/img1277nq.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/841/img1277nq.jpg/)
Front tyre removed at the BMW garage. Feeling quite at home with the other BMW's around (like the red one in the back)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img844/8936/bra54120.jpg)
New cover installed at the brake caliper
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Clutch Interlock Switch
Recently I found out that I can only start the bike when it is in neutral. When the bike is in gear and I apply the clutchlever, nothing happens. So I suspect the clutch interlock switch to be faulty.
I removed the c-clips from the back of the tank, wedged the tank up and opened the relay box. I found the starter relay and also thought I found the connector for the clutch switch. Wrong! Pics on the internet showed a different type of connector. Hmm.... Then I moved the tank backwards and saw some connectors just below the steering bar. Aha! :2thumbup:
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/811/img1311vt.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/img1311vt.jpg/)
Clutch switch was connected to the left connector. No idea what the other switch is for. The front brake switch was more to the right (not in picture).
I took my multimeter to check the switch. Pulled the clutch with a tie wrap and checked the switch. No beeping multimeter, so switch has probably died. To remove the switch from the left handlebar I cut the wires and pulled the rest of the rubber cover of with a plier.
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/521/img1310sx.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/521/img1310sx.jpg/)
Handlebar is upside down. Wires cut, before removing the rest of the rubber.
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/6/img1312mo.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/img1312mo.jpg/)
After removing the rubber cover I could slide a 11 mm socket over the nut and got it out with a spanner easily.
All I need now is a new switch. I'm planning to pick one up tomorrow.
Alternator
Another thing I noticed recently is that my bike rattles a bit. Searching the Internet I read that it could be the alternator. So let's check! Easier said than done though... I had to remove the seat cover (was already removed), the fuel injector controller box under the seat and the battery. I had some issues removing the controller box, but after reading the "how to remove the battery" tutorial at this forum, it was easy :yes
Got the alternator out and here are the rubber dampers. They look kind of alright I suppose, but since I have it all apart, I'll replace them too. I hope to pick them up tomorrow too.
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/850/img1313g.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/img1313g.jpg/)
More soon!
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Nice set up, :drool:
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Went to my local BMW dealer today and picked up the parts. Total costs: 43 euro. Compare the new silent blocks to the old ones. Hard to see the difference...?
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/818/img1314af.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/818/img1314af.jpg/)
New and old silent blocks / dampers or whatever they are called :loopy:
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/834/img1315vv.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/834/img1315vv.jpg/)
New silent blocks in place
I putted some grease on the new blocks to keep them in place when installing the alternator (not in picture). Little fiddling, but easy job. Since I was messing with the battery, I cleaned the negative connection down below the battery also. Corroded negative/earth connections sometimes will cause all kinds of electrical problems. Removed the (minor) rust and greased up the connection with a little white petroleum grease.
After installing the alternator I went on with the clutch interlock switch. Screwed the switch in the handlebar and locked it handtight. Then I connected the plug on the other side under the front of the tank and tried if the bike would start in gear, engaging the clutch. Success! :2thumbup:
Disconnected the plug so I could attach the cable with tiewraps to the handlebar and other cables. And of course reconnected the plug under the tank again :tongue Job done!
I don't know about you guys, but I always end up cleaning all kind of parts when I'm wrenching. Not a bad thing to do of course and sometimes you discover nice (or bad) things. Since I'm quite new to these bikes, I took off a plastic cover just out of curiosity and found this:
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/545/img1316f.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/545/img1316f.jpg/)
Now, doesn't that look great? Three ignition coils lined up together. I love BMW engineering! :bmwsmile
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I noticed that the hose of the crankcase breather was cracked and there was also some oil around it. So I drove to another BMW dealer nearby and bought a new hose (12,70 euro / about 16 dollar). On the way to the dealer the fuel warning light started to light up, so I pulled into a gasstation to buy some fuel. I could only get 15 liters in the tank, so the warning light shows up pretty early. Had done about 270 kliks (168 miles) so that adds up to a fuel usage of 1 liter every 18 km (11 miles). Not bad in winter conditions I guess.
Anyway, on the way home I noticed something else. The tachometer got stuck at about 2.000 rpm. After a while it worked again. Reading some articles on this forum I found out is has something to do with the warping of the backplate in warm weather conditions. The sun was shining yesterday, so it could be that. We'll see how things work out in the future. Not too much of a hassle.
Now, changing the breatherhose:
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/37/img1322.JPG) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/37/img1322.JPG/)
Compare the old with the new one. I've seen pictures of these hoses that were in a more worse state, but it's still bad
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/843/img1323dk.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/843/img1323dk.jpg/)
Bending the hose a little reveals a big crack
The hose is held in place by two hose clamps. One of them fell down onto the engine below the airfilter box. Noooo :yow Tried to get it out with a magnetic stick, but some moron decided to use non magnetic clamps... So it took me literally half an hour (!!!) to get the clamp out with a long screwdriver fiddling along. ARGH! But I got it out at last. Top tip: be sure not to drop it when you remove the hose!
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/694/img1321jo.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/694/img1321jo.jpg/)
There it is (red arrow), that sneaky b*stard! Getting it out was a real struggle
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/545/img1327f.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/545/img1327f.jpg/)
But finally I got the new hose clamped up again. Nice!
Riding through my hometown I spotted this old BMW. Not sure what type it is, but it looks like an oldy :wave:
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/18/img1317sk.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/img1317sk.jpg/)
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Is it me or do the new silent blocks fill up the space more fully?
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/834/img1315vv.jpg)
Be interesting to see if that fixed your rattle.
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Yes, they do fill it up more. The old ones had obviously worn out. And no, I didn't notice the rattle the last time I rode the bike, so it seems to have fixed that too :-D
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The ignition switch was a real struggle on the bike. I had to wiggle the key, moving it up and down to be able the turn it. I was afraid I would break the key one day. So I bought a second hand switch on the internet for 18 euro, including a key.
Getting the old switch out was kind of easy. I also loosened the two allen screws that hold the panel with the switches etc to gain better access. I moved the tank to the back and turned it leftwards so I could reach the connector of the ignition switch, just before the relay box at the right side of the frame. But then, bummer: the connectors of the old and replacement ignition switch were different :(
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/690/img1347ms.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/img1347ms.jpg/)
Left: the old connector, right: the replacement one I bought. Anyone knows what bike the right one is from? :dunno2:
Hmm, so what to do? First of all, I wanted to know that the new switch would work. So I just connected the wires using two terminal blocks. Ignition worked! :yes
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/248/img1348rg.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/248/img1348rg.jpg/)
Connected the wires using two terminal blocks. Not the most durable solution, but it works for now
I wrapped some electro tape around the terminal blocks to keep it all together and put the tank and the switch panel back etc. I'll reconnect the wires another time with heatshrinks or something like that. Didn't have that in my workshop at the moment. At least the bike can be started without jiggling the key for a minute and the risk of breaking it. Job (almost) done. :riding:
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I was looking for bigger tragkorbs. I have the City ones that came with the bike when I bought it, which are very nice. But for a holiday or other short trip they are a little small. So I searched on the Internet and found a secondhand touring pannierset just 15 km away from my house. Picked them up yesterday.
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/22/img1351qn.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/22/img1351qn.jpg/)
Yes, they are red. I know. And my bike is black. I know. :falldown: BUT.... they were cheap. And maybe I'll respray them black someday. For now, I polished them and gave 'm a good cleanup.
Inside the tragkorbs, it's very empty. No strings or nets, not even a rope to prevent the lid from falling all the way down. Have to do some modifications. I read something about upgrading tragkorbs on this forum.
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/521/img1350e.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/521/img1350e.jpg/)
Rather empty inside :dunno
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/20/img1352v.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/20/img1352v.jpg/)
My City and Touring tragkorbs together
I also bought another seat. Since the cover of the previous seat was torn at some places. Now I have a good one where no rain will get in.
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/59/img1353zw.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/59/img1353zw.jpg/)
Will keep you guys posted of future updates :yes
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"Connected the wires using two terminal blocks. Not the most durable solution, but it works for now"
I've changed that yesterday. Bought some crimpconnectors and connected the wires with a crimptool. And I put some self-vulcanising tape around the connectors to make it all waterproof. Job done :yes
I also bought some new gadgets:
- blind spot mirrors (just arrived today from China)
- RAM Iphone mount (ordered in the USA (much cheaper as in Europe :clap: )). Expected next week.
More about these things soon!
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Time for an update!
I installed the RAM Mount and it works out very nice. I also bought the RAM X-grip to hold my iPhone. Now I can charge my phone while riding and use it to navigate or listen to music. :yes Still looking for some kind of bluetooth remote to control the volume and skip tracks etc. Any recommendations are welcome!
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/339/img1379es.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/img1379es.jpg/)
I also installed the blind spot mirror. Really recommend these! I still do watch over my shoulder, but it's nice to have some kind of double check. BTW, I bought to different pairs, but the square type sucks. It's not a wide angle mirror, it zooms. So changed it with the circle one, which is a true wide angle mirror.
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/803/img1365ov.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/803/img1365ov.jpg/)
Bad one, no wide angle
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/542/img1378b.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/542/img1378b.jpg/)
Wide angle!
I made a Youtube video of the installation. BMW K75 RAM Mount and X-Grip installation + blind spot mirrors (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMNlw0Oyigo#ws)
I also have a channel on Youtube about my bike and doing some vlogs. You can check it over here:
BMW K75 Rider (http://www.youtube.com/user/BMWK75Rider)