Post by: Filmcamera on September 22, 2016, 06:36:55 PM
I plan to take some tools with me, jumper cables, a set of wrenches and some screwdrivers etc, maybe some WD and electrical spray but was wondering if anybody has some tips for an essential mobile brick toolkit so I don't end up sitting there going damn if only I had ___ with me.
By the way the tax they decided I had to pay ended up being basically double what I paid for the bike!
Nonetheless onwards an upwards, time to start the process of making this bike great again.
Post by: K1300S on September 22, 2016, 06:45:44 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on September 22, 2016, 06:47:54 PM
Ever the optimist I will turn up with good vibes, fingers crossed and some jumper cables.
Post by: Chaos on September 22, 2016, 08:01:08 PM
Post by: stokester on September 22, 2016, 08:01:28 PM
Some fresh gas and a way to siphon or drain what is in the tank may be necessary as well.
Post by: Filmcamera on September 22, 2016, 08:23:11 PM
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Post by: kioolt on September 22, 2016, 08:49:39 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on September 23, 2016, 07:15:01 AM
Post by: Laitch on September 23, 2016, 08:05:00 AM
I plan to take some tools with me, jumper cables, a set of wrenches and some screwdrivers etc, maybe some WD and electrical spray but was wondering if anybody has some tips for an essential mobile brick toolkit so I don't end up sitting there going damn if only I had ___ with me.In addition to the previous members important suggestions, I affirm your bringing WD 40 and electronic cleaner, with their narrow application tubes. Bring some rags with you and a full complement of fuses. Bring a flashlight. Bring a wire coat hanger.
You might need to spray WD into the ignition key and fuel cap locks. Clean the main plug and be certain it is installed tightly. Look into the air box intake pipe. Open up the air box and take a look at the filter. Critters may have nested in those places and you might stall on the road when the nest and debris clogs the filter. Look into the exhaust pipe for the same reason. A coat hanger wire can be inserted in the pipe to extract debris. If anything is clogging air intake or the exhaust, you might drain your battery trying to start the bike. Check the rear wheel lugs for tightness and the front axle too.
If the battery has sufficient charge—I doubt it will if it hadn't been disconnected during the storage—once it lights up, ride it as long as you can, especially if the weather is fair. Put an hour or two on it to help dry all the components and elevate your mood!
Post by: Filmcamera on September 23, 2016, 07:25:16 PM
The battery was super flat of course but I connected jumper cables and gave it 20 mins then it did start if very reluctantly. When I parked it I had left it on the center stand but at some point someone moved it and left it on the side stand. That meant when I did get her going there was huge amounts of smoke to start with.
A big thanks to stokester for suggesting a pump - both tires were at 15 psi...
It is running kind of rough but running.
Now I can finally start the process of making it all new again.
The bad news is that they had put paperwork covered with scotch tape on the tank. Over the months water has got in behind it and the tank if pretty badly damaged.
They do, in theory, have insurance so I will start the process of a claim but don't hold out much hope.
Luckily I had already planned on repainting anyway so...
[/img]g]https://www.dropbox.com/s/91gec6bdhelvn6p/e2e204dc-1935-48ae-89af-c3718cec5b82%20%281%29.jpeg?dl=0[/img]
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/aoqsyhypsw4c1fr/ed15fab7-c6b9-4d6b-be89-0140c6a278dd.jpeg?dl=0)
Post by: stokester on September 23, 2016, 07:33:05 PM
Now it is time to put in new fluids, filters and clean the connectors... and RIDE!
Post by: Laitch on September 23, 2016, 09:48:52 PM
Post by: Revrdmark on September 27, 2016, 11:56:18 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on September 29, 2016, 02:46:19 PM
I will try and consolidate all my posts issues in here from now on
Basically I am waiting for the screw extractor set to arrive http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9005.msg71170.html#msg71170 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9005.msg71170.html#msg71170) because tehre are tons of busted allens on the bike.
So in the meantime I have been putting together my shopping list from MaxBMW
(http://imageshack.com/a/img921/4980/YmkCnf.png)
Any other essential stuff I should replace? The air filter I had already ordered and also the oil filter. My fuel gauge doesn't work but at $200 the gauge in the tank can wait.
The oil pressure switch is because I discovered this yesterday
(http://imageshack.com/a/img924/9986/8GWEUH.jpg)
Post by: racket on September 29, 2016, 02:56:09 PM
Have you looked at BeemerBoneyard or some other online retailers for those parts?
Post by: Filmcamera on September 29, 2016, 02:59:55 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 29, 2016, 03:07:17 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on September 29, 2016, 03:09:39 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on October 01, 2016, 07:20:08 AM
I found this thread on the site http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=3758.0 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=3758.0)
But I am not exactly clear how much of the fairing he got with it. The one I am buying does not have the side parts so I have to either find some or use my existing one
These are the bits I mean
(http://imageshack.com/a/img924/7266/DRyhbb.jpg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 01, 2016, 11:18:50 AM
The knee pads are not interchangeable between the two fairings. The attachment at the bottom is different for the 1100 and when I did mine I couldn't figure out a good way to make the old ones work.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 01, 2016, 06:26:25 PM
Quote
The knee pads are not interchangeable between the two fairings. The attachment at the bottom is different for the 1100 and when I did mine I couldn't figure out a good way to make the old ones work.
So Gryph did you manage to find some for a K1100RS or do you just do without? If you did find some, where?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 02, 2016, 10:53:39 AM
Post by: 84K100RT on October 02, 2016, 03:52:54 PM
Hose clips should really be screw type so you can remove them for maintenance. Make the new ones at the front of t tank a bit longer so you can slide the tank back for access to the radiator cap and for lifting the rear to access the electrical box.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 05, 2016, 11:02:56 AM
There are two empty connectors, one either side and also a cut black and brown wire combo up near the dash. I am thinking they are the ABS connections? It has been removed and the ABS switch on the dash has no wire connected to it.
Can anyone confirm?
Post by: Inge K. on October 05, 2016, 02:11:23 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on October 05, 2016, 02:12:56 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on October 11, 2016, 08:14:48 PM
Fingers crossed for Saturday
Post by: stokester on October 11, 2016, 08:23:04 PM
The extractor set has finally arrived - and it would be the week I cannot do anything to the bike until the weekend...Looks just like my MATCO set with left-hand drill bits and the extractors to fit.
Fingers crossed for Saturday
Take it easy and be patient. Breaking off an extractor brings all kinds of trouble.
Post by: Inge K. on October 11, 2016, 08:54:28 PM
The extractor set has finally arrived -
Not really needed, as you just could have drilled the head of the screw.
Be aware that it's a special screw with a shallow head, if using a ordinary allen screw you
need to grind down the head.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 11, 2016, 09:06:36 PM
Post by: Inge K. on October 11, 2016, 09:08:56 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on October 11, 2016, 09:17:47 PM
Post by: Inge K. on October 11, 2016, 09:30:10 PM
On early version seems to be M10, late version M8....both is special bolt, which you gonna need
the OEM part.....especially if you have the early version which have a integrated valve.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 11, 2016, 09:43:14 PM
31 42 2 310 804
but to be honest it isn't very clear
just my luck it is a $65 part and the later on is $8...
I guess I will take it out and see
The set switches from one size extractor to another at M9 so I might play is safe and use the one for M8 just in case..
Post by: Inge K. on October 11, 2016, 09:52:52 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on October 16, 2016, 09:58:00 PM
A largely but not totally successful weekend to report.
I had discovered a total of six wrung out allens on the bike when I started to work on it. This weekend I managed to get five of them undone using the extractor kit. The one that got away... yep the bottom of the fork leg. I cannot get it undone. I have drilled a decent hole and the extractor bites great using the tap wrench I have but it just will not turn. I have so far avoided getting all butch and putting some kind of extension bar on the tap wrench because I don't want to break the tool off in the fork. For now I think I will take both forks to a specialist BMW shop near me and let them have a try...
I DID manage to get the second fork off the bike (there was a threaded nut in the lower triple tree). I also got the rear brake off and gave it an overhaul - there is a hole in the pipe from the master cylinder hence zero back brake. I also took the discs off the front wheel so I can swap them round and mount the wheel the right way. I took off the rear wheel so I can prepare it and the front for powder coating.
Lastly I tackled the fuel tank, to get it ready for a respray.
I drained it and was going to dismantle it when I saw how the filler looks.
I guess I am going to have more work with the extractor but they are such small screws i wondered if I should do anything different?
The inside of the tank doesn't look too bad but isn't great and the electrics have been hacked about (of course). The sender unit for fuel level is a total wreck but we run ethanol free gas here so the rubber etc seems ok. I can almost guarantee the hoses inside the tank are the wrong ones but wanted to get some input before messing the filler cap up to get everything out and check.
Post by: kennybobby on October 16, 2016, 10:56:20 PM
A small carbide drill bit should open up the gas cap screws--hopefully you can get in there to get it squared away.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 16, 2016, 11:02:20 PM
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Post by: Martin on October 16, 2016, 11:20:15 PM
Regards Martin
Post by: rbm on October 17, 2016, 05:44:22 AM
... My fuel gauge doesn't work but at $200 the gauge in the tank can wait.The sender must just need some refurbishment to bring it back from the dead. Check my article (http://www.k100-forum.com/t9265-messing-with-the-in-tank-fuel-sender) on K100-forum for the process.
Post by: kennybobby on October 17, 2016, 09:40:40 AM
Post by: Martin on October 17, 2016, 02:11:38 PM
Good luck Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 23, 2016, 09:47:01 AM
The bad news is it is a mess in there.
The seals seem to be very well stuck in there and before I just hack at them with a screwdriver or something I wanted to ask if there is a specific method used to get them out?
They also seem different from the replacements I brought from MaxBMW. It seems the ones in there are part number 31 42 2 312 928 which MaxBMW says were superseded by 31422310345 which are the ones I got as replacements. That makes it hard for me to work out exactly what is going on under all that old grime and grit etc.
So can anyone tell me the best way to get the old ones out?
Post by: The Dude on October 23, 2016, 07:37:13 PM
So the good news is - the allen is OUT!Should be easy enough with a screwdriver working round.I seem to remember puting two blue seals in mine and original BMW gaiters many miles ago.
The bad news is it is a mess in there.
The seals seem to be very well stuck in there and before I just hack at them with a screwdriver or
So can anyone tell me the best way to get the old ones out?
Post by: Laitch on October 23, 2016, 07:47:30 PM
So can anyone tell me the best way to get the old ones out?When the springs and seal circlip have been removed, on my K75 I use the absorber tube as a slide hammer and bang the seal out of there. Check Delboy (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30#t=395) at 10:00. I can't say whether that's the best way on a K100RS but it works on a K75.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 23, 2016, 08:18:27 PM
Yet it is very well stuck in there
Post by: kennybobby on October 23, 2016, 08:33:44 PM
google snapring and snapring pliers to see pictures.
A pick can be used in the hole to pry the ring out and a small screwdriver to work the edge around to get it oot if you don't have the right pliers.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 23, 2016, 08:52:40 PM
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on October 27, 2016, 08:09:02 AM
Post by: kennybobby on October 27, 2016, 09:27:42 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on October 27, 2016, 09:58:38 AM
Post by: The Dude on October 27, 2016, 04:22:18 PM
If it's paint then no heat involved but is an inferior coating.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 27, 2016, 06:00:35 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on October 30, 2016, 05:15:46 PM
We also examined the bits from inside the tank because one of the few remaining issues from the PO and the loom is the fuel pump connection.
So it seems to me the fuel level sender is toast, also that the fuel filter is not oem which makes me think the pump isn't either. I don't know whether to cut into the new loom - wich I am obviously loathe to do - or try and fix it so it uses the original connectors etc.
How much should I worry about this?
I am looking for a used fuel level sender but they seem to be as rare as rocking horse doodoo...
Post by: The Dude on October 30, 2016, 05:51:00 PM
So the bearings are a standard type? That makes it a lot cheaper if I don't have to buy OEM from BMW in the US.In '86 they certainly were.I presume yours are also similar but I have heard of more recent designs having bullshit added complicated weird tapered roller different either side bearings,which caught me out when trying to post authoratively about it....I could still be wrong.Replacing mine was easy.They fail slowly in my experience whining and getting hot untill the last bit and then they sieze or the cage colapses and shag out the housing.You'd deserve what you get if you didn't notice all that in time.
Proceed with confidence!..but use a reputable bearing supplier.
Post by: Filmcamera on November 01, 2016, 06:59:14 AM
Post by: kennybobby on November 01, 2016, 07:56:48 AM
i use pine-sol cleaner to soak motorsickle carburetors--it loosens and cleans all the grime and residue, plus it smells good. Vinegar might work too although i've never tried it.
It looks like you have a hole developing in that problem area below the fuel pump--and it looks like it's been welded or repaired before. That left side lower seam area is prone to develop leaks over time.
Post by: Filmcamera on November 01, 2016, 08:05:57 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on November 06, 2016, 12:37:17 PM
Can any 1100RS owner please confirm for me that this tapped hole on the rhs of the engine is for a fairing mount?
Post by: Filmcamera on November 06, 2016, 12:40:22 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 06, 2016, 07:35:25 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on November 07, 2016, 03:59:50 PM
The one on there is all cracked and the end has rotted away completely.
Post by: Laitch on November 07, 2016, 04:19:58 PM
Does anyone know the part number of the hose in the top of the air box? On MaxBMW the fiche just has the whole thing as one very expensive piece when all I need is the one hose.Can you post the diagram and indicate the "one very expensive piece?" I see a hose for around 27USD in the MAX diagram.
Post by: Filmcamera on November 07, 2016, 05:30:42 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 07, 2016, 05:41:32 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 07, 2016, 05:42:38 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on November 07, 2016, 05:47:13 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on November 07, 2016, 05:48:41 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 07, 2016, 05:51:04 PM
Laitch that is it! The crankcase hose - but I can't find a part number for it...What is it? Let's see an arrow.
Post by: Filmcamera on November 07, 2016, 05:53:47 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 07, 2016, 06:05:56 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 07, 2016, 06:11:26 PM
There should be a number molded into it. Can you see one?All right, everyone, the part is available. Go to the Engine Mounting Parts diagram. Look at number 10. After you say, "That's not it!" Click on the diagram then scroll down the menu to number 10. Enlarge the photo and you'll see that is the part. 46USD plus change plus shipping and it's yours. The diagram is generic.
Post by: Filmcamera on November 07, 2016, 06:14:35 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 07, 2016, 06:16:39 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on November 07, 2016, 06:17:26 PM
Thank you very much
Post by: Laitch on November 07, 2016, 06:21:34 PM
Hat's off to you Laith - that certainly looks like it - what a strange place to have it listed.My hat's off to you for working so ardently on Lazarus!
Post by: Filmcamera on November 13, 2016, 02:35:22 PM
In the process of doing that I find the modulator mount that came with my bike is super weak for the weight of the modulators.
I think I have the earliest version of ABS meaning only the first two battery plate mounts are used to secure the ABS modulator mounting plate.
Looking at MaxBMW I see a plate with four mounting holes. not two like mine, DOes anyone know if that four hole plate will fit my bike?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 13, 2016, 06:46:19 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on November 13, 2016, 08:11:07 PM
I will see if I can get a used mount with four mounting plates.
Thanks for the help
Post by: Filmcamera on November 19, 2016, 07:15:21 PM
On top of that I also managed to use my new tap and die set to make the thread for the K100RS fairing mount
I hope to have everything pretty much finished and on the road in three weeks, just as the dry season kicks in.
Post by: Filmcamera on November 21, 2016, 01:08:41 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on November 23, 2016, 11:43:16 AM
I was thinking maybe it was a California model and this pipe went up to the tank vent or something?
Post by: Martin on November 23, 2016, 12:22:15 PM
Post by: F14CRAZY on November 23, 2016, 05:29:15 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on November 23, 2016, 05:35:38 PM
I did dry fit the fairing yesterday and it is looking pretty good...
Post by: Inge K. on November 23, 2016, 06:53:29 PM
I was thinking maybe it was a California model and this pipe went up to the tank vent or something?
You're correct, it have been a check valve in between those two hose ends.
Usually this vent system is blinded and a small plastic funnel is mounted between the
frame tubes under the spigots for tank vent and rain water drain.
Post by: Filmcamera on November 23, 2016, 07:06:18 PM
Post by: Inge K. on November 23, 2016, 07:47:46 PM
as is, or remove it from the spigot under the tank.....but it must be open as it is the vent for the tank.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 24, 2016, 09:57:14 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on November 25, 2016, 03:33:26 PM
I think I can safely assume it isn't a good thing when the radiator hoses make a crunchy sound when you squeeze them??
It also goes without saying there was just tap water in there... sigh
So I have flushed it though five or six times - by lucky accident the hose I was using fits quite snugly into the end of the fill pipe allowing me to build up a little pressure. Tons of what looks like rust etc came out - I am wondering whether I should remove the pump and dismantle it or to just ride and see how it goes...
I did notice it seemed quite hard to fill the system if just pouring water in to the top once the drain nut was back in place - it kept making 'I am full' noises at me after only half a liter or so. I had to keep on squeezing the pipes to get more to go in.
Post by: Laitch on November 25, 2016, 04:11:39 PM
I am wondering whether I should remove the pump and dismantle it or to just ride and see how it goes...Use of a coolant flush product—if you haven't used one yet—might help rinse out whatever scum is hanging on in the coolant passages. If it were my bike I'd do a couple more flushes with a product like that. You run the engine using them. Then I'd ride it to see if the pump leaks, if it's at the riding stage. Otherwise, ¿Quién sabe? You can always rebuild the pump, which is what you'll need to do anyway, if you compromise any seals. That means new seals and a new impeller, among other things.
I did notice it seemed quite hard to fill the system if just pouring water in to the top once the drain nut was back in place - it kept making 'I am full' noises at me after only half a liter or so. I had to keep on squeezing the pipes to get more to go in.
The radiator needs to be filled slowly; I use a funnel. The squeezing technique is normal procedure and expected.
Post by: Filmcamera on November 25, 2016, 04:40:38 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 25, 2016, 06:40:24 PM
Then, it might be a good idea to remove the radiator to run a lot of water through it. Clean out all the bugs and dirt in the fins. Where you are riding you are going to need all the cooling efficiency you can get. I wouldn't take any shortcuts on this sytem.
I would suggest that the water pump can be serviced after the bike is back running. No need to tear into it before you know if it has any problems.
Post by: Filmcamera on November 26, 2016, 04:55:33 PM
Instead i though I would just remove the rear drive and have a look at the splines there - expecting to find them dry as a bone and worn as heck.
In fact I had a fairly pleasant surprise
The splines did have lube on them - though i suspect it was just regular grease and when cleaned up they looked in pretty good shape.
The only thing I am not sure about is in the top shot you can see a band around the middle of the shaft, like a cut, doesn't look too bad but I am not sure if I should be worried about it.
The final drive oil was pretty bad and very smelly so i will be changing that for sure.
Post by: Martin on November 26, 2016, 05:02:34 PM
Wouldn't worry splines look great just lube them up with one of the recommended high moly greases.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on November 26, 2016, 05:28:37 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K1Sm2xfAyw
Post by: Filmcamera on November 26, 2016, 06:00:51 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on December 08, 2016, 10:59:23 AM
I am getting pretty experienced at removing these bolts but this one has me worried.
The screw plug is pretty shallow and goes directly into the transmission so I don't think drilling it an using an extractor is a very good idea.
I was thinking maybe I would have to buy a sacrificial 8mm allen and weld it into the hole?
Anyone got any other ideas?
Post by: Laitch on December 08, 2016, 11:16:20 AM
Anyone got any other ideas?Remove the drain plug to relieve pressure from heat. Using a heat gun, heat the filler plug and area around it. Pound a slightly oversized socketed torx or hex bit into the plug. Heat the area around the plug again. Apply penetrant. It'll probably smoke. That will reduce the insect population and impart a cloyingly sweet aroma to your coveralls. Return in 15 minutes and give a hard reef on the socket with an extension handle on the wrench or breaker bar. Instead of the socket bit technique, you can pound a notch into the hex opening with a cold chisel and hammer it out counterclockwise using the chisel. Or you can carefully weld something to it, as you suggested.
Enough heat, penetrant and patience, it is going to unscrew.
Post by: kennybobby on December 08, 2016, 11:28:37 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on December 08, 2016, 11:35:05 AM
Needless to say the transmission was dry as a bone. I don't have the special dipstick but Clymers shows it and the lengths in mm of the handle and oil measuring levels. So I used those and it took 400 ml before even registering.
I am going to order a new screw plug and washer and will see if I can also find the correct dipstick - the washer wasn't even there on mine which is no doubt why the PO gorilla'd the nut hoping to stop leaks.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 08, 2016, 11:59:16 AM
Post by: Laitch on December 08, 2016, 12:10:36 PM
there are other bits I should swap out while I am in there?El resorte.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 08, 2016, 12:21:50 PM
Post by: MaraudeRS on December 08, 2016, 12:47:07 PM
I tried that no luck but then I got lucky - I tried a T 50 torx bit and that gave me enough leverage to crack it and get it out :clap:
Needless to say the transmission was dry
Nice job!
Reminds me that I need to check my trans fluid...thanx!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on December 08, 2016, 12:51:07 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 08, 2016, 01:13:52 PM
No need to spend time aand money trying to source a transmission dipstick.
Get a piece of coat hanger wire about 8" long.
Bend a 1 1/2" loop in one end.
Measure down the specified length for the oil level from the bottom of the loop.
Cut the wire of about 1" below the oil level measurement.
With a hammer flatten the wire for the bottom 1 1/4". The flat will make it easier to see the oil level on the stick.
On the flattened part of the wire mark the oil level by tapping with a chisel or scratching it in with a file or fine hacksaw blade.
You now have a lightweight dipstick that will take up nearly no space in your tool kit.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 08, 2016, 01:32:34 PM
Progress has been painfully slow recently - largely due to the fact that every time I start somethign it reveals more parts needed which is 2 to 3 week process to get them down here.
Having said that I am supposed to get the parts back from powder coating tomorrow which is very exciting. That means I can finally reassemble the forks, front brakes and get the front wheel back on.
After that it is just waiting for the tank etc from paint (now) the clutch boot, a quick spline lube, rebuild everything and off we go...
Post by: Filmcamera on December 08, 2016, 03:00:21 PM
I am pretty sure I can get the header welded but wanted to ask about the much blacker colour on the same pipe. Is that possibly an indication of that cylinder burning oil? Should I be worried or put it down to the fact the pipe was cracked?
Post by: Martin on December 08, 2016, 03:09:40 PM
It looks like it has been repaired before, Gryph I believe had problems with cracking header pipes, I believe he changed to a different model. Apparently earlier model didn't crack. The black could also be one cylinder running rich.
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 08, 2016, 04:07:43 PM
The early model exhaust fits with a bit of fussing to get the stands to retract properly, and sounds the way I like my bikes to sound(not loud). The only thing different is that because of the different foot peg mounting plates the pipe sticks out a bit further than the original exhaust. No big deal unless you're a peg dragger in which case the end of the pipe will drag a bit before the pegs. On the other hand, it does make getting the rear wheel out a bunch easier.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 08, 2016, 05:11:01 PM
For the grand sum of $5.50 I have to say I am happy...
Post by: Martin on December 08, 2016, 05:24:25 PM
Gryph do they crack roughly in the same place, and if so do you think a 2'' gusset between two pipes would be beneficial.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 08, 2016, 05:27:40 PM
Post by: Martin on December 08, 2016, 05:29:36 PM
http://www.k100-forum.com/t10630-k-series-exhaust-headers-cracking-a-possible-prevention#125768
Have a look might help regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 08, 2016, 05:49:05 PM
When I replaced the Remus i was reluctant to use the original model exhaust based on the earlier problems. Since a lot of parts are interchangeable between years and models, I decided I would take a chance on an early model exhaust. Was very pleased to find that it worked.
Post by: Laitch on December 08, 2016, 05:54:11 PM
http://www.k100-forum.com/t10630-k-series-exhaust-headers-cracking-a-possible-prevention#125768 (http://www.k100-forum.com/t10630-k-series-exhaust-headers-cracking-a-possible-prevention#125768)That's a great find, Martin, and bound to help those looking for a solution or attempt at prevention. :2thumbup:
Have a look might help regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 08, 2016, 06:08:13 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on December 09, 2016, 06:54:25 PM
They look in great condition except... when removing them from the bike he couldn't be bothered to disconnect the plugs so he CUT the wires.
At first glance there is no way to get into the modulator and try and switch out the wires. Has anyone ever tried to open one up?
I am pretty upset - he kindly gave them to me for free but it has cost me the best part of $200 in tax and shipping to get them here.
Post by: Martin on December 09, 2016, 07:37:49 PM
Probably wouldn't be pretty, but you could carefully cut off the rubber boot on your new modulator exposing the wires. Try to cut off close to the modulator and slide it off over what remains of the wires. Do not damage the wires while you are doing this. Carefully strip back the wires enough to solder them try to stagger the joins also keep the joins short. You are staggering the joint so as to keep it as slim as possible.Then cut off the harness from your old modulator, again try and remove the boot you might need it if you stuff up the other one. Then stagger the wires to match the new ones, make sure you match the colour coding. Slide on some heat shrink to cover the individual wires and the boot, also put a large piece of heat shrink over in case you can't get the boot to fit over. Keep the solder joins as fine as you can you need to keep the join as slim as possible.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 09, 2016, 08:16:06 PM
So install, test, gingerly, and revisit if necessary is my plan for now.
Post by: Elipten on December 09, 2016, 09:17:58 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Martin on December 09, 2016, 09:23:00 PM
I don't know whether you have ABS 1 or ABS 2, http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,538.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,538.0.html)
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1631.0;attach=850;ts=1367445150 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1631.0;attach=850;ts=1367445150)
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1631.0;attach=851;ts=1367445151 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1631.0;attach=851;ts=1367445151)
http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/
Might be worth a read.
Post by: The Dude on December 09, 2016, 11:11:45 PM
I think, on semi-mature reflection, I will install everything with the old modulators and the new brain before I start cutting wires. I suspect that one of the parts least likely to fail is the modulators, that when things on the ABS system fail it is more likely to be the brain ad or sensors before the modulators (this may well be pure wishful thinking on my part).Good plan to hope it's just the brain first of all.
So install, test, gingerly, and revisit if necessary is my plan for now.
I use a short length cut from copper plumbing tube with heat shrink on top to make good electrical cable connections I crimp the tube with vice grips.
Yes,I know it's a Bodger's way of doing it but Bodging used to be a legitament trade when I was growing up,er when I was a lad.. :musicboohoo: you would use a Bodger who could fix anything with whatever was lying around!A great loss to our instant gratificated throw away society IMHO. :dunno
Post by: Filmcamera on December 10, 2016, 06:16:35 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on December 10, 2016, 07:46:16 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 10, 2016, 08:56:11 PM
Can anyone confirm that?Have you looked at the diagram that's found if you scroll down here (http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/abs/abs.htm)?
Post by: Filmcamera on December 10, 2016, 09:01:39 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 10, 2016, 09:02:49 PM
Yes. I did, in fact that is the ONLY place I found a clue as to which goes where, I was just looking for confirmation from elsewhere.Go with it.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 11, 2016, 10:44:24 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on December 13, 2016, 03:44:28 PM
Now, have a question about the three hard lines., Two long and one short. As far as I can tell so far one of the two long lines one is shorter than the other and has a wider thread at one end. I think this is the line that goes from the modulator to the caliper. The other long line is therefore for the line to the brake lever. The third short, curved one seems to be an extension for the line to the caliper. I am having a little trouble working out the exact routing of the that pipe so I can connect it right. I have searched but can't find any photos on line. Can anyone tell me how I should route the lines? Thanks
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 13, 2016, 04:23:34 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on December 13, 2016, 04:29:47 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 13, 2016, 10:08:15 PM
Does this help?It is a cause of confusion because it varies from the BMW ABS I Users Manual regarding the positions of the lever lines and the caliper lines. What is its original source, Gryph?
If this were my bike, I'd follow the manual and fit the parts accordingly. Somebody here must be able to make a photo layout of the assembly to help move you forward, Filmcamera, if the manual isn't enough for you.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 13, 2016, 10:36:41 PM
The two long ones run to the modulator. The one with the hose and the hard line goes from the master cylinder to one of the long lines. The hose connects to the master cylinder, and the hard line connects to the long line that has the matching fitting. The long line that connected to the hard line from the master cylinder goes to the inlet of the modulator. The other line connects to the modulator outlet and is connected by a hose(not provided) to the fitting on the fork brace between the fork tubes.
As near as I can remember the two long lines run from somewhere above the right hand side of the radiator, back above the air box to the modulator.
Post by: Laitch on December 14, 2016, 07:42:56 AM
It's the parts fiche for the bike he's working on.In the fiche diagram you supplied and your description from memory, that would make their positions reversed from the manual's schematic drawing as I understand it.
The two long ones run to the modulator. The one with the hose and the hard line goes from the master cylinder to one of the long lines. The hose connects to the master cylinder, and the hard line connects to the long line that has the matching fitting. The long line that connected to the hard line from the master cylinder goes to the inlet of the modulator. The other line connects to the modulator outlet and is connected by a hose(not provided) to the fitting on the fork brace between the fork tubes.
I'm slightly disturbed that although my safety is compromised by not having this ABS system on my bike, I'm happy about that—classic approach-avoidance.
:yippee:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 14, 2016, 08:34:47 AM
Upper fitting goes to the master cylinder and the lower goes to the caliper.
The connections for the front modulator are configured differently from the rear modulator. In that case I would follow the manual or the fiche illustration in lieu of better documentation. I suppose it was a screw up to assume that the internal passages of the two modulators were the same even though the line connections were in different locations.
I guess that Filmcamera will have to sort this out on his own. The more I post the more confusing this gets.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 14, 2016, 08:52:50 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on December 16, 2016, 12:52:51 PM
Post by: Martin on December 16, 2016, 04:47:44 PM
Cylinder compression nice and even within 10 Psi, some compression gauges can read high or low. I would not worry until you have some miles it's belt. As stated numerous times Bricks do not like being idle and benefit from being used.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 19, 2016, 01:07:44 PM
One Friday I did finally get the parts back from the powder coat - take two steps forward...
I got them home and discovered they had ignored everything I said and powdercoated the brake calipers completely. That meant powder coat on the insides where the two halves are supposed to meet - that meant powder coat on the banjo bolts and bleed nipples they couldn't be bothered to remove, that means lost o-rings - oh and btw the way they 'misplaced' all the brake pads and mounting hardware but are sure they will turn up.
Take four steps back.
Much sanding and cursing later the brakes calipers look ok, though I am super concerned about how much powder and crap has go into the system - I am going to be bleeding these three or four times at least before I try actually using them in anger.
Take one small tentative step forward.
I was able to FINALLY replace the fork seals and rebuild the forks.
Take a big satisfied step forward.
I then set to work with my tap and die set and have managed to clean up all the threads that got powder coated so I have been able to totally rebuild the front end and the rear brake and install the foot pegs mounts and rear wheel.
Two steps forward.
Of course the front wheel bearings got powder coated and I cannot get them out...
One step back.
Phew after what feels like a square dance I guess some progress has been made
In theory I get the tank and the rest of the painted parts this week.
I had one question about the rear wheel. I know they came with four and five bolts. I have five - on ebay I had got hold of a hub cap but it turns out it is meant for a four bolt wheel - it doesn't fit with my five bolt set up. How big a deal is it if I leave the fifth middle bolt out so I can use the hub cap?
Post by: The Dude on December 19, 2016, 01:32:19 PM
I'm a bit confused about the fith bolt being in the middle...(Disclaimer)
I believe I'm far enough away to avoid litigation.4 bolts is ample for all the stresses involved....actually one would be enough not if it's the one in the middle though but don't quote me. :yow
(Disclaimer)Best sort it out properly.The inspector may take the cap off?
The powder coated in wheel bearings,just scratch out the offending film on the wheel housing,carefully, and bash them out with a drift (solid bar)?and well aimed brute force.
Square dancing is par for the course.You will do better next time...won't you?
Post by: Laitch on December 19, 2016, 01:48:02 PM
I know they came with four and five bolts.The five bolt configuration is news to me too. What's your source for that info?
Post by: Filmcamera on December 19, 2016, 02:01:45 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 19, 2016, 02:09:59 PM
Well apart from the fact there are five holes and my bike came with five bolts, the Clymer shows five bolts for the three spoke wheel - in chapter 14 - supplemental info on 1990 and later models - the only part of clymer that seems to be right for my bike most of the time.Well, the fact that your front wheel came with its spoke orientation reversed doesn't make your bike's appearance a particularly sound reference for how things should be, does it? If the wheel calls for five bolts, it ought to have five bolts holding it; otherwise, you're heading down the maintenance path of the previous owner.
I questioned you because there's no reference in MAXBMW's fiche from a 5-bolt patterned wheel. Onward!
Post by: Filmcamera on December 19, 2016, 02:13:57 PM
Post by: Martin on December 19, 2016, 04:07:34 PM
Is the five bolt pattern counting the one in the centre as shown in your picture. I have a 92 K75S with 3 spoke wheels and it does not have the centre bolt. Does this centre bolt actually retain the wheel? :dunno I have looked at a Haynes manual and a few parts sites and can not see any reference to it I will continue to look it is a bit of a mystery.
Regards Martin
Post by: Filmcamera on December 19, 2016, 04:10:03 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on December 19, 2016, 04:17:25 PM
Here are excerpts from my Clymer page 616
Post by: Martin on December 19, 2016, 05:44:53 PM
Must pertain only to a couple of models. I would not do away with it, must be there for a reason for fitting it. As for the hub cap you should be able to find one that fits with a bit of hunting. The one from a K75 will not fit due to the centre bolt, one of the inmates might have one.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on December 19, 2016, 07:14:19 PM
Part 36132311276 was found on the following vehicles:
- K589 (K1, K 100 RS) (08/1988 — 09/1993) (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?id=0533-USA-07-1991-89V1-BMW-K_100_RS_0523,0533_&mg=36&sg=31&diagId=36_1536&q=36132311276&series=89V1)
- K589 (K 1100 RS, K 1100 LT) (06/1989 — 04/1999) (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?id=0533-USA-07-1991-89V1-BMW-K_100_RS_0523,0533_&mg=36&sg=31&diagId=36_1536&q=36132311276&series=89V2)
Post by: Filmcamera on December 19, 2016, 07:18:58 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 19, 2016, 07:26:18 PM
Thanks. I will see if I can track one down, looks like it isn't available from a dealer. Alternatively I might try and mod the one I have to make it fitThen there's this (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,6108.msg40284.html#msg40284).
Post by: mystic red on December 21, 2016, 12:17:44 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 21, 2016, 12:19:55 PM
I didn't know there were 4 bolt wheels. Must be a K75 thing....Five bolts are a paralever thing.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 21, 2016, 05:42:15 PM
The bottom hole on the modulator is for the calipers as Drake had it in his diagram. The top one is for the brake lever.
So the fiche is wrong
Post by: MaraudeRS on December 22, 2016, 10:53:51 AM
So the fiche is wrong
Say it isn't so!
Post by: Laitch on December 22, 2016, 11:50:39 AM
So the fiche is wrongRegardless, the schematic from the BMW ABS1 Users Manual available in the Technical Library here has been accurate.Say it isn't so!
Post by: MaraudeRS on December 22, 2016, 11:53:08 AM
Regardless, the schematic from the BMW ABS1 Users Manual available in the Technical Library here has been accurate.The tech library here on motobrick has been invaluable. It's helped me so much already and I haven't even done much yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on December 22, 2016, 12:10:22 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on December 23, 2016, 07:12:35 PM
I am pretty sure I needed four banjo to banjo - one for each caliper to the Y joint and one from the rear caliper to the ABS modulator and another from the the ABS modulator to the rear brake master cylinder.
Other than that a good day - I got the tank back painted and it looks great - also the tragkorbs and the mirrors and lastly a bunch of bits from MaxBMW.
Basically one good push over the next three or four days and I should be on the road!
All in all a good day - especially since it is my birthday! 52 today.
Happy Holidays to you all.
Ride safe!
Post by: Laitch on December 23, 2016, 08:55:28 PM
. . . it is my birthday! 52 today.:birthday:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 23, 2016, 09:36:13 PM
Post by: Martin on December 23, 2016, 11:01:57 PM
Happy Birthday Merry Christmas yours is even closer to Christmas than mine 21st. I used to hate it as a kid, the old combo present trick. :musicboohoo:
Ho Ho Ho.
Post by: MaraudeRS on December 24, 2016, 01:03:57 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on December 27, 2016, 03:01:17 PM
Hmm I tried to post a video but it didn't seem to work
Let's try again
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEa_74KRWOE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEa_74KRWOE)
I also wrote more in the post.
New fuel gauge works, temperature gauge works, fan comes on when it is supposed to.
It seems to be running a little rough and I need to balance the TB's etc but I would appreciate any feedback on how it sounds etc. I am pretty new to K's so my ear isn't attuned to the good and bad sounds they make...
Post by: Martin on December 27, 2016, 03:14:32 PM
:2thumbup: Nearly there this is where it starts to get exciting.
Regards Martin.
Post by: MaraudeRS on December 27, 2016, 04:39:39 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Laitch on December 27, 2016, 04:51:01 PM
I would appreciate any feedback on how it sounds etc. I am pretty new to K's so my ear isn't attuned to the good and bad sounds they make...It sounds butch.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 27, 2016, 06:46:28 PM
MaruadeRS quick update on the Spiegler lines. Firstly they are a bit of a pain to install, not too bad but even so. My main complaint with them so far though is that the lines are so short and so stiff I have not been able to take a front caliper off with the lines attached. That means the only way is to unscrew the banjo either at the top where it hits the three way joint or on the caliper itself before removing the caliper from the wheel. That, inevitably leads to quite a lot of spilled brake fluid. My other observation is about the banjo bolts that come with the kit. They are VERY soft aluminium and I threaded two of them due to powdercoat residue - I do not mean I threaded them at the top of the hole when starting the bolt I mean I had the banjo 3/4 of the way into the hole and going perfectly - it then hit the powder coat residue and instantly threaded as I tightened it. The kit may say use only their bolts but I would ignore that and use the BMW ones or at the very least proceed with extreme caution using the Spiegler banjos, I guess you can take them in and out four times maximum before they are junk.
In theory they are sending out the correct missing hose this week. Meanwhile I just installed one of the old ones for now.
So now to the big question that I have been avoiding. On this forum there are a million threads and posts about valve clearances and shims on the 2v models. Mention 4v though and there is a collective sharp intake of breath and lots of sideways glances. As far as I can gather it is ok to check the 4v engine's valve clearances but unless you are a wrenching God do not attempt to shim them. Is that fair? Are the valve clearances as critical on a 16v? Should I check them and them take them to BMW if they are wrong or just take it to BMW to check and fix if necessary?
Post by: Laitch on December 27, 2016, 09:23:10 PM
Mechanical procedure at the level most of us practice is nothing more than following instructions carefully using the appropriate tools and paying attention. That includes adjusting valves on 16v Bricks. It's more complicated than on 8v Bricks only because there are more steps and parts involved in the procedure. Regardless of whether a procedure is simple or complex, only one step can be done at a time—one step after the next until it is finished. Once the valves are correctly adjusted on 16v Bricks, their reputation seems to be that they stay that way. If you've got the money to pay somebody else to do it, pay them and accept the outcome.
It is pointless to raise this deal to a mythical level. Getting a less complex bike would be a better strategy.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 27, 2016, 10:25:07 PM
OK, here is my experience from a sister brick to yours.
My bike has over 114,000 miles and came to me with no service records, but judging from it's condition I'm guessing the valves were never done. I say this because the word on the 4 valve engines is that the valves hold their clearance. Thus, they wouldn't have needed adjustment during the early part of it's life, and I'm pretty darn sure they weren't addressed in the last 50-60,000 miles.
So, assuming they were never done, here is what I found. Out of 8 exhaust valves, all were still in spec, however, several were at the tight end. All the intake valves were in the middle. I could have left them alone, but since I was pulling the head and replacing the valve guide seals I decided to get all the exhaust valves as close to the wide end of the spec as possible. I wound up changing 4 exhaust shims. Had to buy 3.
On the 4 valve engines it's a royal pain in the ass to do the shims, about on a par with changing the clutch o-ring. You need to pull the cams, and the timing chain to change the shims on this engine. On the bright side, at least I was able to get the job done without needing any special tools. Figure at least a day(a long one) start to finish. I was lucky(!?) in that I was able to do it as part of a head reassembly. Still, it's not something I want to do again soon.
My advice is to check them, record the clearances and store them. Unless a valve has totally gone out of spec I would leave everything alone. A complete check should take less than an hour start to finish. If you absolutely have to do them, get a firm quote on having the shims changed from a reputable mechanic. That should convince you that it is a job you might want to learn how to do.
Post by: Filmcamera on December 28, 2016, 05:29:14 AM
Post by: Laitch on December 28, 2016, 07:19:15 AM
Ok great thanks. I will check them at least. Needless to say I don't have a valve feeler gauge, will any type do or should I be looking for a particular type/size/range?Don't you have a manual yet?
Post by: Filmcamera on December 28, 2016, 07:51:11 AM
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Post by: Laitch on December 28, 2016, 08:02:35 AM
Yes I doGreat! It should show the types and sizes of the feeler gauges and how to use them.
So does this video that is accessible in the Technical Library.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFkPnLVkxWQ
Post by: Filmcamera on December 28, 2016, 09:08:52 AM
Lastly a quick brake update for MaraudeRS.
I am an idiot...
The hose on the rear master cylinder that I was replacing was attached via a banjo bolt so I was looking for another banjo to banjo in the kit. On the way back from the gym today I had an epiphany - maybe the male screw in the hose I have left from Spiegler IS a built in Banjo. So I got home and checked and indeed that is the case. So the kit is complete. Doh!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 28, 2016, 09:25:22 AM
Post by: MaraudeRS on December 28, 2016, 02:30:48 PM
Lastly a quick brake update for MaraudeRS.
I am an idiot...
The hose on the rear master cylinder that I was replacing was attached via a banjo bolt so I was looking for another banjo to banjo in the kit. On the way back from the gym today I had an epiphany - maybe the male screw in the hose I have left from Spiegler IS a built in Banjo. So I got home and checked and indeed that is the case. So the kit is complete. Doh!
Thank you for the info! Santa didn't bring me a set of hoses so I'll have to get them. I'm planning on replacing the rusted handlebars with either a set of clubman bars or clip-ones so I don't want to buy any yet because they'll end up being too long.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on December 29, 2016, 01:33:41 PM
Yesterday I flushed the radiator and added a 60/40 mis of distilled water and coolant, I also balanced the TB's and bled and fixed the rear brake.
Today I put on all the tupperware for real for the first time.
I still have things to do (like find some vinyl paint so I can paint the backrest on the top box for example) and fix the front brakes but do feel I am getting very close now.
Here are a few pictures
Post by: MaraudeRS on December 29, 2016, 03:26:52 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on January 04, 2017, 10:50:02 AM
According to this post http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2883.msg16783.html#msg16783 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2883.msg16783.html#msg16783) it is either the input shaft seal or the clutch pushrod seal and that I have to pull the tranny either way.
So I am assume I might as well go ahead and replace both while I am in there - as well as doing a spline lube.
My question is, is there anything else I should do while I have the tranny dropped? Also how urgent is this? If I keep it topped up with gear oil can I ride for three or four months till the rainy season starts or should I take of this right now? (I know, I know, I SHOULD do it now but I want to ride it a little before it rains again for six months...)
Ouch - I have been reading up in my Clymer's on how to do this and it looks very tricky.
This thread http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4542.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4542.0.html)
Scares me, am I crazy to even think of doing this myself?
Post by: The Dude on January 04, 2017, 04:19:49 PM
Post by: Dennis de Vries on January 04, 2017, 09:10:56 PM
Bike turned out great! :2thumbup:
Post by: Laitch on January 04, 2017, 09:22:17 PM
I'm surprised you hadn't done the input splines yet. Replacing seals and lubing the input spline shaft is just like everything else. Get your procedure in order first, then follow it step-by-step.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 05, 2017, 11:03:09 AM
A good time to change that o-ring is when you are in there to do the splines. If that's the problem, which I think it is, unless you are leaving puddles when you park, you should be ok enjoying your brick until the rainy season.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 05, 2017, 11:14:28 AM
I will order the parts and maybe when they arrive I will feel the urge to just get it done.
I freely admit that I have been putting off do a spline lube. I had zero wrenching experience before I got this bike and just the fact that it is a six part video watching Chris Harris to a spline lube has me more than a little intimidated. Still I have no doubt I can do it, I have managed everything else so far.
First thing I have do it is manufacture some kind of front wheel vice so I can jack up the bike and get it onto the Chris Harris box I made. So far the bike has been on the center stand for the entire project but I know I have to take that off to do the spline lube. I am sure with some 4x2 and some mdf I can knock something together that will hold the front wheel well enough to be able to jack the back of the bike up.
Post by: Laitch on January 05, 2017, 11:36:55 AM
I am sure with some 4x2 and some mdf I can knock something together that will hold the front wheel well enough to be able to jack the back of the bike up.Look through the Projects section. There is plenty of inventive maintenance rigging in there.
Post by: Martin on January 05, 2017, 12:07:43 PM
I got carried away with mine made mine out of 3" box section with multiple bracing. The definitive over engineering and overkill. :hehehe
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 05, 2017, 02:14:43 PM
My setup consists of a stack of 2 x 8 pieces about 10" long under the oil pan. I notch the top piece to accommodate the drain plug. I have made a saw horse that goes under the rear frame loop to support the bike when the centerstand is removed. I made the horse just high enough that the front wheel is just off the ground.
Another stack of wood helps to support the transmission when you pull it back. I use a floor jack with wheels and a pair of 8mm x 4" bolts with the heads cut off the slide the transmission in and out of the clutch pack.
A handful of 12" long cable ties holds things like brake calipers to the frame after they are removed.
As far as the leak, I found that after 24 years/116,000 miles my rear main seal was still ok, and that the oil was coming from the o-ring that had hardened to where it was so brittle it crumbled when I pulled it out.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 11, 2017, 12:38:34 PM
All in all it felt good, though they were a couple of niggles. The speedo and odometer don't work, has anyone ever had that before?
Before I get harangued that was a joke... I know all about the numerous threads on the subject and will dive into them and see how it goes.
The brakes are kinda mushy - I will rebleed and see if that helps. The ABS does appear to work, at least I get the warning lights when I start up but it goes out once I get moving so looks good.
One of the side cases is loose and rattles a lot, I think I have seen threads on that as well.
Basically I am very very happy. It was great to get it out on the road after so many months, even if only for a five mile shake down ride. My plan now is to go all over it and check everything is still tight then take it to the government test center on Saturday to get it certified road worthy.
A huge thanks to all of you for your help and guidance, I could not have done it without you! :clap:
Post by: Laitch on January 11, 2017, 12:44:01 PM
The speedo and odometer don't work, has anyone ever had that before?Very funny! I'm glad you still have your sense of humor. :clap:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 11, 2017, 01:20:00 PM
DEOXIT...
Otherwise, congratulations on getting another brick on the road. I am very relieved to hear the ABS is working.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 11, 2017, 01:25:36 PM
Post by: Martin on January 11, 2017, 01:26:40 PM
Post by: The Dude on January 11, 2017, 02:39:01 PM
Post by: Laitch on January 11, 2017, 05:38:01 PM
Yep, I did deoxit it once but will take it apart and try again...The odometer problem has gear replacement solution as a likely solution. Check the speedo sensor connection near the side panel for corrosion and good fit. The sensor itself can be removed and inspected, too.
First though, ride it to hell and back, which would be Honduras, I guess.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 14, 2017, 09:23:10 AM
Still nothing.
The odd thing is that on the short shake down drive I did the speedo needle moved from 0 to around 22 mph and has stayed there - it hasn't moved again - either up or down.
Is there any test to see if there are pulses coming from the speedo sensor in a attempt to narrow down where the error is?
The problem is I discovered that as part of the RTV (road worthiness test) they put the bike on a rolling road and test the speedo, if it doesn't work you don't pass so I have to get this resolved before I can make the bike legal.
Other than that it is riding great, the brakes have bedded in now I have ridden it a bit more, it is smooth and comfortable and the gear changes are pretty good, as long as you blip the throttle on a down shift anyway. I did a 20 mile or so ride yesterday, some in the city, some in traffic and a little bit of open road. I am gonna love this bike, that much I can tell for sure!
Post by: Laitch on January 14, 2017, 09:30:56 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on January 14, 2017, 10:00:44 AM
I am going to see if I can take the instrument cluster apart further to get to the actual clock and see if it is rubbing anywhere (it doesn't appear to be on a visual inspection but it is hard to be sure)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 14, 2017, 10:25:01 AM
When you get into the instrument cluster, it will be a good time to calibrate the speedo. There are a lot of good threads and information here and on other forums. If you have the skills with a soldering iron and good eyes, you can also change the clock to 12 hour display. Then there is the opportunity to change the bulbs in there to LED's.
Also, Before you do anything with the cluster, check the speed sensor connector that is located on the right side of the bike near the rear brake fluid reservoir. Clean it and do some continuity checks down to the sensor and up to the cluster.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 14, 2017, 10:55:32 AM
The connection IS broken at the sensor end but as far as I can see the spades connect up well.
I took the instrument cluster apart and reset the needle to 0, it seems to move freely and isn't touching the plastic faceplate or the speedo backing.
Put it all back together and still nothing.
When I cleaned the pins in the cluster they were totally corrosion free so I am thinking my next step is a new (to me at least) speedo sensor and take it from there.
Meanwhile I will put the fairing back on and continue to ride and rely on a GPS speedo from my phone.
BTW I am blind as a bat and a gorilla in boxing gloves can probably solder bet than me so I will leave the clock alone....
Post by: Laitch on January 14, 2017, 11:01:47 AM
The connection IS broken at the sensor end but as far as I can see the spades connect up well.The sensor can have an internal break so replacing it makes sense. Your cleaned and checked instrument cluster is certainly ready to utilize it.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 14, 2017, 11:45:31 AM
I checked the numbers and it's a fit. P/N 61 31 2 305 839
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-BMW-K1200-RS-Speed-Sensor-160044-/322350237151?hash=item4b0d9245df:g:uacAAOSwj85YRdTv&vxp=mtr
Post by: Laitch on January 14, 2017, 12:36:24 PM
The sensor can have an internal break . . .but it could also just be a break in a wire somewhere between the sensor and the connector.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 14, 2017, 01:17:46 PM
BTW, I would pull the sensor and clean the face of any metal particles and then look in the hole to confirm that the signal disc is turning with the rear wheel.
Post by: Laitch on January 14, 2017, 01:21:03 PM
With the molded in pickup coil, the problem, if it is a broken wire it is much less likely in the molded in coil.There is a length of wire going from the pick up to the connector, right? He's already cleaned the pick up, reply #197.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 14, 2017, 01:53:56 PM
Exactly. My post was meant to reinforce your hypothesis that the break was most likely in the cable. It is possible that there is a lot of metal bits in the oil, and wiping the sensor will reveal if anymore was picked up.
The main thing is to check that the slotted ring is indeed turning to generate a speed signal. It's unlikely that it isn't, but it's easy to check and eliminates another possible problem.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 14, 2017, 03:38:50 PM
I am hoping very much it is the sensor, if not I might have to buy a whole instrument cluster which is going to be much more expensive.
I ordered a sensor but as always as I live way out like I do I am not going to get it for three weeks or so so until then I will just continue to ride and enjoy the bike (and hope not to get stopped by the local constabulary) :bmwsmile :riding:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 14, 2017, 03:42:46 PM
Must be nice to have a brick in a world of bumblebees. ENJOY!
Post by: Laitch on January 14, 2017, 04:07:58 PM
and hope not to get stopped by the local constabulary) :bmwsmile :riding:If you've got a speedo app on your phone that has a large display, your phone is in a cradle that allows a fairly heads-up view and you have a pocketful of expendable paper money, that will show them that your intentions are good, and so are their prospects. It's a winning situation for everyone.
speedo app.png (129.42 kB . 576x398 - viewed 360 times)
Post by: Martin on January 14, 2017, 04:12:44 PM
Bicycle speedometers can be had cheap, and if installed correctly are accurate.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on January 14, 2017, 04:24:29 PM
http://www.k100-forum.com/t1026-rear-wheel-speed-sensor#5669 (http://www.k100-forum.com/t1026-rear-wheel-speed-sensor#5669)
Hope it helps at least in testing the sensor, voltage output between .5 and 5.5 V AC depending on speed.
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 14, 2017, 05:58:38 PM
Has a function that will test your speedometer as well as make it possible to calibrate it.
http://www.k100-forum.com/t2038-karamba-speedometer-calibration-program-tutorial
Post by: Filmcamera on January 15, 2017, 07:26:35 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 15, 2017, 08:51:02 AM
http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/karamba.htm
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 15, 2017, 09:04:44 AM
All you need to add is a 3.5mm stereo plug with two wires with flat blade connectors. The instructions for the cable are in the first link I posted.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 15, 2017, 12:14:22 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on January 17, 2017, 04:08:25 PM
That is the good news, the less good news is that the bike feels pretty under powered and when I pointed a laser temperature gauge at the exhaust headers I noticed that number two was significantly cooler than the others. Not cold and I would say too warm to be simply ambient heat from the other headers. The rest were reading about 190 C and two was reading 140 C.
I will take off the fairing this weekend and delve deeper but any suggestions of what I should look for what would be appreciated.
Post by: Laitch on January 17, 2017, 04:25:21 PM
I will take off the fairing this weekend and delve deeper but any suggestions of what I should look for what would be appreciated.That cylinder might be running rich. Compare plugs. Did you ever adjust valves and balance throttle bodies?
Post by: Filmcamera on January 17, 2017, 04:29:05 PM
The valves I didn't, I watched a Chris harris video on how to do it and he says very clearly - if you have 16v K bike you are wasting your time don't bother with the valves, they never get tight.
So I took his advice and didn't, though i think I will during the rainy season just to increase my knowledge of the bike.
Post by: Laitch on January 17, 2017, 04:49:37 PM
. . . if you have 16v K bike you are wasting your time don't bother with the valves, they never get tight.I'd usually go with what Harris is saying but your bike was in such a sorry state, I'd be compelled to check the clearances. I'm not one who goes looking for something to do either. I'd rather be riding.
Anyway, the plugs might have something to tell you and that's easy enough.
Post by: Martin on January 17, 2017, 04:50:13 PM
www.k100-forum.com/t1526-how-to-balance-the-throttle-bodies-solved
It is possible to rebalance the TB's.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on January 17, 2017, 05:05:39 PM
www.k100-forum.com/t1526-how-to-balance-the-throttle-bodies-solvedSt. Paddy's day come early this year in OZ, Martin?
It is possible to rebalance the TB's.
Regards Martin.
Post by: bocutter Ed on January 17, 2017, 05:06:57 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on January 17, 2017, 05:17:27 PM
Anyway I thought I had them quite close but apparently not. I will have another go over the weekend. At least it does run, it just feels a little sluggish on the pick up and kinda lumpy over 4500 revs or so.
I am not too worried, I expected some teething troubles, this is, after all, the first time it has been ridden for a couple of years or more. There are bound to be some cobwebs to be blown out. Loving the bike though and getting LOTS of admiring looks and thumbs ups, it is nice to be back in the fold of the biker community!
Oh btw the speedo needle shifted a little again when I rode it. I checked the GoPro footage and it slowly creeps up from 0 to close to 30 mph once I get passed 60 KPH but then stays there. I am waiting to go and buy a 3.5mm stereo jack so I can try the Karamba program and will report back my findings.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 17, 2017, 05:37:27 PM
Have you run any Techron through the bike? I would get a couple bottles and dump a half bottle in each of the next 4 fill ups. Old fuel glues things together, and it sometimes takes as much as a couple thousand miles to get things running properly. I know, been down that road with my K100RS and a couple other dormant engines.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 17, 2017, 05:40:44 PM
Not sure I have seen Techron here but there has to be something similar available so I will try that as well.
Thanks for the tips.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 17, 2017, 05:47:04 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on January 17, 2017, 05:49:07 PM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00092893E/ref=twister_B009SPGRQ4?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00092893E/ref=twister_B009SPGRQ4?_encoding=UTF8&th=1)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 17, 2017, 06:03:49 PM
Post by: Martin on January 18, 2017, 02:02:03 AM
I saw the post as I was about to go out so you are lucky to get it in any colour. Besides I am red green colour blind and the Honorable Minister for Finance and Recreation is half Irish, and Palm trees keep the snow away. Any more complaints please send to my complaints department.
:neener: :neener: :neener:
Post by: Laitch on January 18, 2017, 10:24:54 AM
Any more complaints please send to my complaints department.Complaints? Certainly not! I wanted to be in the loop. OZ is a happening place! :yippee:
Post by: bocutter Ed on January 18, 2017, 10:32:55 AM
and Palm trees keep the snow away.... not a complaint. Just noting that up here in snow country moss (green stuff) grows on the north side. :yes
Post by: Laitch on January 18, 2017, 10:50:18 AM
Just noting that up here in snow country moss (green stuff) grows on the north side. :yesI'm lichen that response!
Post by: Filmcamera on January 23, 2017, 05:57:15 PM
To say she liked it would be going too far but she didn't get off a quivering nervous wreck nor did she scream the entire time she was on board so there is hope! :2thumbup:
Meanwhile as previously mentioned I seem to have developed a major rear master cylinder leak. I took it apart and cleaned everything but if anything that made things worse. Time for a rebuild kit I guess... sigh
Still the bike gets lot of comments wherever I go on it and I am starting to discover there is more of a classic bike scene than I had previously thought :riding: :bmwsmile
Post by: Filmcamera on January 26, 2017, 03:13:56 PM
What can be making the needle move a bit but then stay put, not drop back down to zero even with the power off? I have checked and it isn't the needle touching the plastic cover, even out of the cover altogether it stays where it was. I can move it back to to zero myself and it seems to move fairly easily but there is a some resistance.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 31, 2017, 02:26:42 PM
There doesn't seem to be a replacement part available. Has anyone ever taken off and refitted this part? I really don't want to buy a new MC... and that includes the chineses alternative youngengineer posted about.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 01, 2017, 06:45:31 PM
Now I can insure it tomorrow and planning beach, volcano, rain forest trips and cloud forest with my wife!
Post by: Martin on February 02, 2017, 04:54:51 AM
Have a look at this its supposed to be brake fluid proof. http://eclecticproducts.com/_tds/sealall_tds.pdf then click on products then click on Seal All. Or type in brake fluid proof sealant on the net.
Regards Martin
Post by: Filmcamera on February 02, 2017, 06:28:48 AM
Post by: Laitch on February 02, 2017, 06:40:13 AM
:giggles
Post by: Filmcamera on February 10, 2017, 05:19:01 PM
It has been getting steadily worse and now is very noticeable. Not only does the clutch not engage till the last 1/2 inch of travel on the clutch lever if I accelerate hard the revs rise but the speed doesn't, it takes a while to catch up.
Looking at Max BMW just a clutch plate is the best part of $220 :musicboohoo: (part number 5 in attached diagram)
Does any one know if there are non OEM alternatives?
Also is it JUST part no 5 I need to replace or should I be looking to replace part no 4 the pressure plate as well or any other bits?
Is there any chance the clutch is fine and something else is making it slip ( i did have a transmission fluid leak from the clutch boot recently)
Lastly has anyone ever put in a use clutch?
Help, funds are kinda tight right now but I really want to get the work done before the rains start... so any tips that might save a few bucks would be great
I see Motobins has one for £72 for the standard or £85 for the heavy duty and even an Italian one for £44, that is already a good start compared to $218, has anyone tried any of these?
Post by: Laitch on February 10, 2017, 05:53:02 PM
Today I found out that I am not so much down on power from the engine more that the clutch is slipping...First, be certain that all your lever and cable measurements and adjustments are correct, and that nothing is impeding clutch arm travel. If there is no engine oil leaking from the transmission weep hole, and all adjustments are correct, you might only need part 5. The compression ring, o-ring, clutch nut and cover bolts are also candidates for replacement but if there is no sign of leakage and the bolts weren't a problem, it's a coin-toss. Because shipping is problematic, you might want to do it all at once.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 10, 2017, 06:05:43 PM
As to the o-rings etc yes it says all over Max BMW replace if you do any clutch work so I assumed I needed those but they are luckily cheap parts not hundreds of dollar like the pressure plate etc.
Thanks, as always, for the help
Post by: Laitch on February 10, 2017, 06:10:18 PM
I have purchased but not yet installed a replacement clutch cable (the one on the bike isn't a BMW one). Maybe the best thing to do is install that and make sure it is all correctly adjusted and see if the problem persists?That's definitely the strategy. Measure carefully. Lube the handlebar lever pivot on the cable end, follow the adjustment procedure in sequence.
That might be all there is to it.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 10, 2017, 06:39:26 PM
Here's a clutch from a K1100 with only 35k miles on it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-assembly-K1100RS-BMW-95-may-fit-k75-k100-s-rt-lt-K10-/122273593739?hash=item1c7812f98b:g:H10AAOSwux5YViP6&vxp=mtr
Post by: Filmcamera on February 10, 2017, 06:58:17 PM
Good find, thanks
Post by: Laitch on February 10, 2017, 07:16:15 PM
only 35k? What would you expect to get out of a clutch normally? 70K? If it is half life and it is all the parts yes it is a good deal and I will probably jump on it...I think you're jumping the gun but on a well-adjusted and intelligently ridden bike with no transmission fluid or oil leaks into the clutch area, a 70K or more is not uncommon.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 10, 2017, 07:42:07 PM
Bottom line, at 35k the friction disc should be almost new. I would figure that you should get at least 5-6 years at 10k per year, probably a lot more. A lot depends on how you ride and how you keep things adjusted.
Post by: MaraudeRS on February 10, 2017, 07:47:49 PM
I'm pretty sure you don't need to disturb the clutch nut, compression ring and the o-ring to do the clutch as long as you leave the housing in place.Thanks for this link, Gryph! I'm gonna buy a part off of him.
Here's a clutch from a K1100 with only 35k miles on it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-assembly-K1100RS-BMW-95-may-fit-k75-k100-s-rt-lt-K10-/122273593739?hash=item1c7812f98b:g:H10AAOSwux5YViP6&vxp=mtr
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 10, 2017, 07:50:00 PM
Post by: MaraudeRS on February 10, 2017, 07:55:02 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on February 10, 2017, 08:12:47 PM
On another note I have changed out the speedo rear sensor, cleaned the pins ad nauseum and nada.
I am thinking the gauge unit needs changing.
I have the possibility of buying one from a fellow motobricker but the photo he sent it looks slightly different to mine.
Mine is the first darker ratty looking one...
Apparently his comes off a 89/90 K100LT - as far as I can tell it should fit fine with my 1991 K100 RS but a little confirmation would be great.
Post by: MaraudeRS on February 10, 2017, 08:14:37 PM
Those clusters are $1151.00 new!! What do the sell for used?
Sent from my mind using telekinesis
Post by: Filmcamera on February 10, 2017, 08:16:32 PM
Post by: MaraudeRS on February 10, 2017, 08:19:37 PM
Looks like yours is part # 62 11 2 305 258
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on February 10, 2017, 08:43:12 PM
Now I am confused - if I put that part number into Real OEM - 62112305018 it says it was on the K589 K1 and K100RS as well as K1100's
But if I get the part number for the k100LT - 62111459901 it says it was also on the K589 K100RS
So one side says it is the same and the other says it is different.
I am fairly sure it would work with my bike.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 10, 2017, 10:06:54 PM
On the surface, it is easy to see that the meter movement is different between the two different models as far as the angle the needle swings through. To me this raises a flag that says there may also be something different behind the panel that will affect how the instrument works.
IMO, unless someone else has used a 2v K100 cluster successfully on a 4v model I would avoid setting myself up as a guinea pig.
On the other hand, there are a number of clusters on my favorite source for used parts. There is a cluster there for $60 or best offer. If you have good glass in your cluster, this could be a very attractive, cost efficient option.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-BMW-K1100-LT-Instrument-Cluster-151013-/221793400100?hash=item33a3eab524:g:rLcAAOSwpDdVccQ~&vxp=mtr
If you are interested confirm with the seller that it is a working cluster before making an offer. That will be an important point if you need to file a claim through eBay.
Post by: Martin on February 10, 2017, 11:01:40 PM
If it's just the glass that is crazed they can be cut out and duplicated. But it is not a job for the faint hearted, you need a Dremel and a very steady hand ( I made up a jig to make mine into a router so I could not cut too deep). Had a plastic Perspex specialist shop make me up a couple of sets. a full glass including all the markings . And a left and right side necessitating leaving the middle portion, this is the easiest way. Cost me $20.00 for the three pieces. Once cut out you need to glue it back in with acid free silicone.
Regards Martin.
Post by: billday on February 11, 2017, 09:59:38 AM
One exception: The odo/trip odo unit can be serviced or replaced, and that can be worth doing. And there are a couple of tricks for coaxing flakey speedos back into service, but mostly that involves chasing gremlins, which is not my thing.
The units are as far as I can tell are interchangeable across all the K100s and K75s. The very early units should be avoided because they lack a modification that allows moisture to vent. The early units have two distinguishing marks: (1) they have two low-fuel lights on the face, and (2) they lack two circular openings on the back, which is the crucial moisture ventilation mod.
Flakey instruments can also be caused by worn/abused connectors at the end of the wiring harness (two oblong blocks of connectors that go into the back of the instrument box). Flood those connectors with Do-Oxit or the like but DO NOT use any kind of grease on them. Each one works through a very delicate spring. I actually spliced a new pair of connectors onto my bike's harness. It was a lot of soldering but it's held up fine. In retrospect I might have been better off swapping the entire harness but for whatever reason I wasn't up for doing that much disassembly that winter. Can't remember why.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 11, 2017, 10:11:06 AM
Post by: kennybobby on February 12, 2017, 01:13:37 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on February 18, 2017, 03:35:51 PM
One bad thing, I removed the exhaust and the exhaust outlet for number two cylinder (which was always running cooler than the others) has oil on it (see photo) is this seriously bad news? Are we talking pistons rings? When I did a compression test it was lower than the others but still 125 compared to 135 for the rest so in theory not too bad.
Anyway I have also attached some pictures of the splines, I would like to hear some opinions on them, I am not experienced enough to be able to tell a good one from a bad one...
Post by: The Dude on February 18, 2017, 04:06:26 PM
The oily exhaust stub suggests a possible weeping exhaust valve guide/seal.I personally would just let it be for as long as possible.Get a follower to report on any blue haze from the exhaust silencer.That valve will be the first to die.Now,Don't ask me how I know...(half a million km on old triumphs:(
"Excessive"Oil consumption and status amongst the Friends of the Earth are some reasons to rectify early.Otherwise,keep on trucking.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 18, 2017, 04:22:56 PM
Meanwhile I am struggling with a wrung out bolt on the clutch pack - I mean really how the heck did anyone manage to wring out that bolt? PO was clearly a total body building type or something.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 18, 2017, 05:21:31 PM
I did notice that the inside of the clutch housing is filthy dirty, covered in oil etc. Maybe a leaking rear main seal? I also found some oil residue on the clutch plate which would probably explain the slipping.
Not sure what my next step should be, any ideas?
Post by: Elipten on February 18, 2017, 07:48:36 PM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post by: thecableguy on February 18, 2017, 08:01:43 PM
Not sure about clutch for your model but sounds like rear seal and the o-ring need replacement
+1 Do it while you are in there...
Jim
Post by: Filmcamera on February 18, 2017, 08:07:01 PM
Post by: Elipten on February 18, 2017, 08:12:20 PM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post by: riots100 on February 18, 2017, 08:26:40 PM
I had a similar issue with my K75, where the number three cylinder exhaust pipe had oil on it. And the number three cylinder compression was lower than the other two. It turned out to be a bent connecting rod caused by hydrolock. I outlined my process of discovery and repair in this thread (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7661.0.html).
The lower compression resulted is less fuel (and oil) burn. The unburnt oil escaped out the exhaust valve and fouled the exhaust manifold and pipe.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 19, 2017, 04:31:22 PM
Thanks for the advice.
I am going to change the o ring and clutch seal as a well as the nut etc. I also have the main seals for the transmission so I will do that as well.
Not decided what to do about the clutch but with 7mm left on it there is no way it is worn out. So I am planning to change the clutch cable, give everything a good clean out reassemble it and see how it goes.
Meanwhile I am going to respray some of the bits I have off the bike like the swing arm etc since it seems like a good opportunity to do so.
Post by: Laitch on February 19, 2017, 04:47:18 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on February 19, 2017, 05:03:33 PM
Trying to clean up the back of the transmission case (my word it is a mess back there, all the black gunk on the floor in the photo came out of there - I am amazed the GPI still works) I see that the boot that goes on the end of the swing arm is crushed and at a guess has not been connected for years. I am going to try and rescue and reuse it but how vital is it?
Post by: Laitch on February 19, 2017, 06:53:23 PM
I am going to try and rescue and reuse it but how vital is it?All boots should be in good condition to repel infiltration of moisture and grit.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 19, 2017, 06:59:03 PM
Post by: Martin on February 19, 2017, 07:46:57 PM
While your at it fit a grease nipple to the clutch arm and waterproof the gear position switch with something like Plasti Dip.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 19, 2017, 07:59:59 PM
Quick question, if I cover the opening in the tranny where the swing arm attaches with a plastic bag is it safe to go at the rest with a high pressure spray gun or is that asking for trouble - there is SO much gunk in there I am having a tough time cleaning it out
Post by: Laitch on February 19, 2017, 09:14:36 PM
Apart from anything trying to work out the spanish for grease nipple will be a fun challenge!Grasera (http://www.lubricom.com) would work in Miami.
Post by: Laitch on February 19, 2017, 09:24:58 PM
. . there is SO much gunk in there I am having a tough time cleaning it outWhat are you using for crud removal? Surely somebody here has a favorite concoction to recommend.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 19, 2017, 09:45:31 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 19, 2017, 09:46:28 PM
Follow with an old hair dryer to soften what is left so it can be wiped up with more paper towels.
Follow that with mineral spirits brushed on with a cheap paint brush. Let it soak for a few minutes, keeping the surface wet, then wipe with even more paper towels. If you cut the paint brush bristles to about half their length will make them a little stiffer and better for working the spirits into the goo.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 19, 2017, 09:52:19 PM
Post by: Martin on February 19, 2017, 10:35:26 PM
Both the GPI and the clutch arm are subject to water and road crud. The GPI's were never waterproof and benefit from a clean and waterproofing it will extend it's life expectancy. The grease nipple on the clutch arm allows for lubrication, and allows for the crud and water to be kept out. Any crud that does get in will be pushed out when you grease it. There is a post on fitting the nipple.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 21, 2017, 01:27:41 PM
As stated before in this thread I was leaking some transmsission oil out othe the bottom of the tranny. Research suggested that it was either Input Shaft Seal or the Clutch Pushrod seal. Since I have the tranny out I decided to go ahead and replace them both.
The input shaft seal was pretty easy and is installed no problem.
The Clutch pushrod seal however is another story...
In the thread about it Frankenduck says "This seal has a metal collar with a very tight tolerance and it takes some work with small tools to pick the old one out"
I have been been working at it for 45 minutes and have totally destroyed the old one but cannot get it out.
Any suggestions would be very gratefully received - at the moment my only thought it to take the tranny to a BMW mechanic and say "I screwed up"
Post by: Filmcamera on February 21, 2017, 06:54:06 PM
Post by: Laitch on February 21, 2017, 07:31:07 PM
It is hard to take a good pic but this is what I mean - it is the part ending 1159 in the ficheIt can be an ordeal working around a seal and moving it slowly out of its seat. Are you using tools like these or something else?
Post by: Filmcamera on February 21, 2017, 08:05:28 PM
I also repainted the swing arm and paralever but am not happy with the results. I used a matt black and it is too matt, doesn't really match the OEM so I am going to keep hunting for a semi matt or something. I remember someone mention a rustoleum product that was a goo d match?? Can't buy it here but maybe I can have someone bring some down for me.
Lastly I tried to install my new clutch cable only yo discover the cable adjuster on the bike isn't original so I cannot fit the cable. A quick $7 order on MaxBMW fixed that but now it is another week to get it. Sigh - I do envy you guys who can jump on the bike and ride round to your nearest dealer.
Post by: mystic red on February 21, 2017, 08:23:52 PM
Quote
Lastly I tried to install my new clutch cable only yo discover the cable adjuster on the bike isn't original so I cannot fit the cable. A quick $7 order on MaxBMW fixed that but now it is another week to get it. Sigh - I do envy you guys who can jump on the bike and ride round to your nearest dealer
Our local dealer, before he went out of business, didn't have K bike parts ten years ago. Had to order them and then I got to drive back in to pick them up. Think I did that twice.
Post by: Elipten on February 21, 2017, 08:27:03 PM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on February 21, 2017, 08:28:34 PM
Still at least it IS possible to get parts still - long may that last. Also - joy of joys - I came across another K bike owner here in CR- he has a K1100 LT he is looking to turn into a cafe racer. I have the chance to score his old 35l top box to add to my iconic 22 l but I am in two minds about it.
My two picks are cheap CR ones, I have basically blunted the tips already so I may have to go to a better tool shop and get some decent ones
Post by: Filmcamera on February 22, 2017, 10:54:49 AM
OMG if that seal ever needs replacing again I swear I will buy a whole new tranny rather than go through that 2 hours of misery again!
It seems the new seal is an upgrade on the old one so the design is slightly different. Before I try and install it can I confirm which way up it goes?
I am pretty sure the side with the internal circular spring faces out towards the rear of the bike and the side with the flat portion face intowards the transmission.
Can anyone confirm this?
Thanks a very relieved noob mechanic...
Post by: The Dude on February 22, 2017, 01:41:29 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on February 22, 2017, 02:01:59 PM
Post by: The Dude on February 22, 2017, 07:06:08 PM
The other way round and you'd get the opposite.
I've never had to deal with my pushrod seal so .....
Post by: Filmcamera on February 22, 2017, 07:12:33 PM
Meanwhile today I installed the new clutch (uggh it is a struggle without a clutch centering tool but I got there eventually).
I also joined the cool kids club and added a grease nipple to my clutch arm!
Lastly I got everything cleaned up and ready so tomorrow will be lube the splines and then reinstall everything.
Post by: jimboknowsit on February 23, 2017, 10:07:41 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on February 25, 2017, 04:16:48 PM
I am a total blithering idiot and deserve whatever issues I have brought upon myself.
Now - what did I do?
I rebuilt everything, put the tank back on and tried to fire her up. Nothing. I tried again a few times and nothing. So I started trouble shooting and eventually figured out that - idiot that I am - in my rush I had connected the fuel lines the wrong way round. Phew I thought an easy enough fix - which I did - problem is she still won't start.
Could I have ruined the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator? Messed up the injectors? Worse?
Is there anything else that could be causing it?
The GPI works - the neutral light comes on and if I put it in gear the LCD on the instrument cluster goes to 1.
I though it might be the sidestand switch - on my bike it is a little electrical switch which is open when the side stand is down and closed when it is up.
I can't think of what else could cause a no start from a clutch change. (Yes I did reconnect the motronic)
The bike cranks great but zero sign of life
Other than those two things I am stumped, and fearful I have messed something up...
Post by: Martin on February 25, 2017, 04:21:55 PM
Can you hear the pump, the four pin connector under the tank is a known source of problems. Try cleaning an reconnecting. Check fuse # 6 which supplies power to the pump.
Good luck regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2017, 04:24:39 PM
Can you hear the pump, the four pin connector under the tank is a known source of problems. Try cleaning an reconnecting. Check fuse # 6 which supplies power to the pump.Martin, I wish you hadn't mentioned that. I enjoy a good self-administered public flagellation. Who doesn't, really?
Post by: Filmcamera on February 25, 2017, 04:27:03 PM
Fuse no 6 is fine - the connection of the 4 pin is fine.
I COULD hear the pump when it was incorrectly plumbed - now I don't...
Post by: Filmcamera on February 25, 2017, 04:31:44 PM
Post by: Martin on February 25, 2017, 04:35:37 PM
Sorry Laitch. Being as the pumps are DC they will run forward or backwards with no bad consequences. Pull your pump out and apply voltage and see if it works. Sometimes if they are jammed due to a foreign body, reversing the connections back and forth briefly will free them up.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2017, 04:38:17 PM
and gnashing of teeth - I love a good teeth gnashing when public humiliating myself . . .This problem sounds like it's of Biblical proportions.
Other than those two things I am stumped, and fearful I have messed something up...
I doubt if you've messed up something. It's more likely there's an electrical connection that hasn't been made, one that has not been made completely, or something simple that's been overlooked.
How many seconds have you spent trying to get it started?
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2017, 04:40:06 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on February 25, 2017, 05:00:51 PM
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2017, 05:11:57 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on February 25, 2017, 05:22:48 PM
Ok when I take the pump off the bike and apply 12v it does spin but nothing when on the bike.
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2017, 05:25:55 PM
I have it on the tender but it is a little low - 11.5 at the momentCharge up the battery. Reconnect the fuel pump. Start up the bike.
Where do you put that battery when it's off the bike—not on a cement or stone floor, right?
Post by: Filmcamera on February 25, 2017, 05:27:59 PM
Post by: Martin on February 25, 2017, 05:38:50 PM
Check for power at the four pin connector.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2017, 06:04:13 PM
Check for power at the four pin connector.He did—less than 11V.
Regards Martin.
. . . I would love to know what is wrong with a cement or stone one...Save your love for animate objects.
. . . when I opened up the tank and disconnected the electrical connection on the pump itself I get 0 volts. That would seem to indicate a break somewhere from the tank connection to the pump itself.Seems weird that I did hear the pump when the fuel lines where incorrectly connected and don't now.You might have broken the connection between the sender and the pump when you disconnected the pump. Or you might have misapplied the meter, or the incoming sender wiring is wonky. Connect the pump, charge up the battery, give it another try and let us know what happens.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 25, 2017, 06:43:49 PM
OK When the I checked the 4 pin connector for the fuel pump and fuel gauge I get voltage of approx 10v between white and brown and the fuel gauge works but when I opened up the tank and disconnected the electrical connection on the pump itself I get 0 volts. That would seem to indicate a break somewhere from the tank connection to the pump itself. Seems weird that I did hear the pump when the fuel lines where incorrectly connected and don't now.
Can't think of any irrelevant witticisms to add to the thread so I will just offer some suggestions to help get you running.
First of all, the pump only runs when the starter is pushed, if the engine doesn't start it shuts off when the button is released.
Second, the four pin tank connector is notorious for lousy connections, especially for the pump. It need to be squeaky clean, and in some cases(my K100RS) the female sockets need to be gently tweaked to get a better grip on the male pins.
As far as the reversed fuel lines, I doubt that reverse flow on the fuel pressure regulator will damage it. I know this because I have connected them ass backwards with no bad result. Since there probably was no fuel pressure getting to the rail, there will be no damage to the injectors, they would be just about the last thing I would look at.
Test the fuel pump by disconnecting the return line from the rail and connecting a hose from the rail to a container to catch the fuel when the pump runs. That will confirm that the pump is working and the filter and lines are clear.
Since you had the transmission off, I would also suspect the side stand switch it will allow the engine to crank but not start, and there is no override for it. But check the pump before going into that.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 25, 2017, 06:51:53 PM
Here are two pics of the switch, one with the side stand down and one with it up - did I screw up when reconnecting it? (not the easiest thing to photograph but hopefully good enough)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 25, 2017, 07:17:43 PM
I would work on seeing if the pump runs when the starter is cranking. You might want to hot wire to the tank connector to override the pump interlocks and do a static pump test first. +12V to the green/white wire and ground to the brown wire.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 25, 2017, 07:24:30 PM
Just went out to the garage and checked my bike:
1. Pump should run for a second when ignition is turned on.
2. Side stand down prevents pump from running.
3. Look at your side stand switch.
I'll look at mine tomorrow to see if there is anything I can add.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 25, 2017, 07:27:59 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on February 25, 2017, 07:36:50 PM
I can't think of anything else it can be.
The only other thing that made me pause for thought was a battery connection coming off the loom just after the motronic hook up. I could remember for sure if it was a live or ground connection but since it is black and short and couldn't easily reach the live battery terminal from where it is I am 99% sure it is a ground.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 25, 2017, 07:42:40 PM
When I put the bike in gear and hit the start button it DOES crank, I am on the center stand and can see the rear wheel move as I crank it.
Surely it isn't supposed to do that? I thought the GPI switch was supposed to disable the starter if the bike is in gear and the clutch out.
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2017, 08:58:57 PM
When I put the bike in gear and hit the start button it DOES crank, I am on the center stand and can see the rear wheel move as I crank it.First determine if it is actually in gear or you're getting a false gear indication and wheel movement from vibration .
Post by: Filmcamera on February 25, 2017, 11:02:10 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on February 26, 2017, 07:36:16 AM
I am out most of the day with a family event but will try and troubleshoot some more later this afternoon.
Post by: Elipten on February 26, 2017, 09:44:03 AM
Then compression and timing of the spark.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 26, 2017, 10:19:44 AM
I have done some searches and it seems the side stand switch is a weak point. In order to remove the transmission to work on the clutch you had to at least disconnect it which could have disturbed the contacts in the connector or even the switch mount or the lever that activates it. THE CONTACTS ON THAT SWITCH HAVE TO BE CLOSED FOR THE FUEL PUMP TO RUN.
Find the connector for the switch, you should be familiar with it since you had to disconnect it to pull the transmission. It has two wires on it, a green and red, and a green and yellow wire. First, try cleaning the connector with DeOxit. If that doesn't work, put a jumper across the pins.
If the jumper gets the fuel pump working you could have a bad side stand switch, or it could be adjusted wrong or the lever bent. It is a sensitive, on my bike it kills the engine when the side stand is moved even a very small amount.
Post by: Filmcamera on February 27, 2017, 08:06:55 AM
Thanks TMG - good call
Post by: Laitch on February 27, 2017, 09:14:08 AM
I jumped the side stand connection and it started right up!:clap:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 27, 2017, 03:36:39 PM
Now get out there and get some yee-hah.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 02, 2017, 03:55:38 PM
The new clutch works great! The shifts up and down are noticeably smoother and less clunky. I can also feel a big increase in acceleration now the clutch isn't semi slipping.
So that is a spline lube and clutch change done and dusted, thank you everyone for your help.
Next step I have to work on is the brakes. Thed sics are pretty worn but even so I have basically no front brake. I did get some new cheapy chinese pads so I will install those and hope it helps. Now I have the power to go fast but still stop very slowly - not a good combination :riding: :falldown: :curvy-road :mbird
Post by: Laitch on March 02, 2017, 04:28:32 PM
Next step I have to work on is the brakes. Thed sics are pretty worn but even so I have basically no front brake.That reminds me. I haven't looked at my thed sics in ages.
Post by: Chaos on March 02, 2017, 05:15:39 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 02, 2017, 05:19:25 PM
Seriously though, the discs are kinda worn - both are less than minimum but the pads are no more than half life. I have totally stripped and cleaned all the brake parts and bled the system to death. There are no brake fluid leaks anywhere and yet basically the brake lever goes to the hand grip every time. It is like it is impossible to build up any pressure in the system. Any idea why brakes would always act that way?
Nut sure what to do next except change the pads but that is more in hope than expectation.
Post by: Laitch on March 02, 2017, 05:24:28 PM
Any idea why brakes would always act that way?Have you followed this procedure (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1135.0) for bleeding them?
Post by: Filmcamera on March 02, 2017, 05:31:40 PM
As stated much earlier in this thread the brakes came back from the powder coating totally coated, the inside of the calipers as well. I very carefully cleaned those sides as well as using a tap on all the threads to clean them and a pick on the holes that allow fluid to pass from one side to the other. I also removed the seals and pistons and cleaned those and lastly replaced the o-rings. Everything seemed to go back together great and there are no leaks so why no pressure? I haven't touched the master cylinder as yet, I guess it could be there.
Post by: Laitch on March 02, 2017, 05:48:36 PM
Yes, exactly as stated. ABS modulator first then the caliper furthest from the master cylinder then the one closest. I did it again today.Here's a fun thread to read (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=6611.0) while you wait for Gryph.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 02, 2017, 05:54:54 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 02, 2017, 06:25:16 PM
Bought a rebuild kit for the leaky piston seal, but haven't installed it yet. The leak isn't that bad, in fact, it may have stopped. I have just been pulling the boot and soaking up the little bit of fluid that is in there. I am not sure I want to bleed a rebuilt master cylinder again.
My K100 no longer has ABS so the bleeding is straightforward(yeah, right). I am so disgusted with the bleeding process after working on the system, especially with my RT, that I recently purchased a Gunson pressure bleeder and am waiting on delivery from the U.K. Am hoping it helps make that job a little less annoying.
I was using a vacuum pump to bleed, but it seemed that it was pulling air into the system past the seals in the master cylinder. When I was done with the vacuum bleeder I still had to go back and bleed the air out conventionally. The only good thing about the vacuum was that it got the old fluid out quick.
Post by: Martin on March 02, 2017, 08:32:04 PM
This might or might not help. I had problems with bleeding my K75 when I first got it no amount of pressure vacuum or manual bleeding would work. Blocking the line from the master cylinder gave me instant pressure. With a bit of detective work it turned out to be a leak in the front brake line. It appears that a small hole had developed but it was covered internally by a flap of rubber making a one way valve. The hose was sucking air in but not leaking any fluid. I think I still have the hose I kept it on the wall as a curiosity.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 02, 2017, 08:37:44 PM
I do somewhat suspect air creeping into the system somewhere though. When I took the bike off the road to do the clutch two weeks ago the front brakes weren't great but they worked for sure. When I took it for a ride today - or was about to - I had zero front brake and at no point in the clutch changing process did I in any way touch the front brake system.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 07, 2017, 08:39:33 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 07, 2017, 09:06:42 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 07, 2017, 09:10:49 AM
At least Brexit is good for one thing!
Post by: Filmcamera on March 08, 2017, 12:00:59 PM
Post by: Laitch on March 08, 2017, 12:33:52 PM
Any suggestions?While you're waiting for your rebuild kit, loosen then retighten snuggly all your hose connections then bleed the system again.
Post by: Martin on March 08, 2017, 02:08:27 PM
You might want to fit leashes on your mirrors, would stop them wandering too far.. Fishing line tracer would do the trick.
Regards Martin
Post by: Filmcamera on March 08, 2017, 02:13:05 PM
Post by: Laitch on March 08, 2017, 04:05:30 PM
That is whyI thinkmaybe I didn't have the clamp on right, but despite my best efforts I cannot get the clamp on now either.I'm uncertain what kind of gyrations and incantations you're involved in with this process because my bike is less complex; however, try this post on for size (https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?37948-K100RS-mirror-glass&p=479694&viewfull=1#post479694) and read the others surrounding it. Maybe there will be something useful.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 08, 2017, 04:17:36 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 09, 2017, 03:45:15 PM
I just went through my inventory of spare RS mirror pods and made a startling(to me) discovery. It seems that there is two ways to attach the mirror glass. On the new style pods, there is that nasty wire thingy you have to stick through the pod behind the reflector to clamp the mirror glass into the pod.
On my older(?) pods there is a built in spring wire that does the same job as that friggin' wire thingy. If you look down in the hole carefully you will see two wires that will clamp the glass in place. In order to get the glass into the clamp, you will need to push pretty hard on the center of the glass right where the post is. If you don't push there you will be cruising eBay for a new mirror. (No need to ask how I found that out.)
It seems those sneaky guys at Motorad changed the pod where the glass connects when they went to the 4 valve models. It is possible that you are trying to use that wire thingy with the old style pod.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 09, 2017, 03:54:11 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 09, 2017, 04:31:37 PM
Maybe we need to reevaluate our stand on doing frappichino conversions to RS bricks in order to release more mirror parts on to the market.
Post by: Laitch on March 09, 2017, 06:46:31 PM
Maybe we need to reevaluate our stand on doing frappichino conversions to RS bricks in order to release more mirror parts on to the market.I support that view. It will also make more parts bikes available at lower cost.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 09, 2017, 07:04:16 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 10, 2017, 01:34:43 PM
I also loosened and refastened every connection for the whole front brake system and re-bled the brakes.
Still nothing - lever goes straight to grip with zero pressure.
The only thing I can thank is that there is a big air bubble stuck somewhere in the system. So tomorrow I am going to take the calipers off the bike and strip them as well and start again from scratch with fresh brake fluid etc as well.
It is a head scratcher because with no leak there HAS to be pressure if there is no air in the system. That is why, even though I get no air when I bleed the brakes, I am thinking there is some somewhere.
Post by: Martin on March 10, 2017, 02:45:04 PM
If you still have it put your old hose back on the one closest to the M/Cyl . Then bleed out the air in the M/Cyl and hose, and using a line clamp or multi grips with pads clamp of your old hose as close to the M/Cyl as possible. This will show you whether the trouble is in the M/Cyl or in elsewhere. You can do this with the hose you already have on but it is possible to damage the line by doing this, so it is better to use the old one.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 10, 2017, 02:47:36 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 10, 2017, 03:27:12 PM
1b) Yes
Post by: Martin on March 10, 2017, 03:47:13 PM
:2thumbup: You got it, that was how I found that I had a one way leak in the hose. This will narrow down your search possibly. :dunno
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 10, 2017, 03:53:07 PM
Johnny I will try that as well, need to get myself some more DOT 4 first.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 10, 2017, 05:42:57 PM
So 27 pumps and a good few burbs of air from my 'bled' brakes that would have made an unweaned baby proud it worked and I now have a nice stiff lever - funny that pumping lots made it stiff...[size=78%] [/size] :nono
Haven't had a chance to do a test drive yet but it feels ten times better than at any time since I have had the bike to date.
Thanks Johnny :yes
27 rules!!
Post by: Laitch on March 10, 2017, 07:12:12 PM
27 pumps - the cube of three which is of course the exact number of letters to be found in BMW...Numerology uber alles!
27 rules!!
Post by: Filmcamera on March 10, 2017, 07:51:45 PM
Live and learn - I was a total novice when I got the bike so things like that take experience I guess.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 11, 2017, 01:47:16 PM
I was contacted by one of the only other two Brick owners in CR earlier this week. He has a K1100 LT he is turning into a cafe racer.
So...
For $75 I picked up all the stuff in the photo!
Do I need it - hmm not really but $75!
Gen 3 cases with locks, 35 lt top box, rear cowl, Corbin seat (that seat has me intrigued - it looks like it mounts like a regular seal but is formed to be a low seat, anyone heard of that?)
I also got mud flap extensions for both the front and rear parts of the rear mud guard!
First issue is I can't work out how to take the top box off the mount, can someone tell me please? (edit - nevermind I worked it out)
Now it seems I need to buy the mounting bracket - one arm is busted - though a fiber glass repair might be possible I guess.
Oh and best of all - the six locks on the Gen 3 cases - they open with my existing ignition key!
Post by: Elipten on March 11, 2017, 02:13:22 PM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Post by: Martin on March 11, 2017, 02:24:17 PM
:2thumbup: Score and a half one side cover is worth that in OZ you've got over a grands worth.
Regards a jealous Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 11, 2017, 02:45:38 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 11, 2017, 02:55:11 PM
Post by: Martin on March 11, 2017, 03:02:01 PM
Try it on your bike takes about two minutes to swap, you just pull out the little "C" clips on the hinges.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 11, 2017, 03:26:11 PM
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Post by: jimboknowsit on March 12, 2017, 09:28:15 AM
I have been bleeding and testing my brakes and also tying them up overnight as suggested. That had been working fine, I bled them yesterday, did the left and right with the handle bars and bled them again. After that I had a pretty good level of feel in the brake lever. Jost to be sure I tied the handle back about half way overnight to get an remaining air to the top. This morning I took the tie down off and tested the lever. Straight to the bar with zero pressure at all. Overnight the brakes have gone to worse than ever. There is no leak anywhere so I am thinking maybe the master cylinder needs a rebuild? I bled the brakes and got some feel back but not much. Any suggestions?I have a 1994 K1100rs that sat up for 5 years or so. I had the same problem. I ended up replacing the front and rear master cylinder,purging the ABS module and replacing the brakes lines. Brake lines were first.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on March 12, 2017, 10:39:16 AM
When tieing the lever back overnight it seems tieing it all the way back against the grip is NOT good. That forced the MC piston out too far. So I have to remove, clean and reinstall the piston then bleed and bleed and bleed only pulling lever 1/2 way back until I was blue in the face - I think I put four MC's full of fluid through the system starting at the ABS then doing LHS then RHS of the calipers.
That did eventually get me some pressure back on the lever and when I test rode it yesterday I had proper brakes for the first time since getting the bike.
I celebrated by playing on some twisties! :riding:
Post by: Laitch on March 12, 2017, 12:14:13 PM
When tieing the lever back overnight it seems tieing it all the way back against the grip is NOT good.Did you realize wrenchers were warned 2.5 times in the posts to not go pass the halfway point when bleeding that brake system? Were you exploring the limits? :giggles
Post by: Filmcamera on March 12, 2017, 01:09:26 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 12, 2017, 02:51:54 PM
Sadly I still have one key for the fuel cap, one for the 22 lt top box, no key at all for the seat lock and a keyless lock for the 35 lt top box...
Are the basic lock and key combos all identical or are they slightly different for example for the seat lock and the fuel cap?
I'd really like to end up with one single key for the whole bike if possible. I plan to visit a locksmith tomorrow to see if he can help with me most of the locks but am not sure about the seat lock
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 12, 2017, 04:00:28 PM
http://www.k100.biz/pdf/FAQ/FAQ_K100_tips.pdf#%5B%7B%22num%22%3A1294%2C%22gen%22%3A0%7D%2C%7B%22name%22%3A%22XYZ%22%7D%2C0%2C976%2Cnull%5D
If you do a search on the net I think there is a description of the process with some good photos.
Post by: Laitch on March 12, 2017, 10:51:41 PM
I'd really like to end up with one single key for the whole bike if possible. I plan to visit a locksmith tomorrow to see if he can help with me most of the locks but am not sure about the seat lockHere's a MOTOBRICK.COM epic thread (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,494.0.html) concerning this subject.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 13, 2017, 01:59:08 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 13, 2017, 02:36:07 PM
I would but
No lock in seat lock to wiggle...
Post by: mw074 on March 13, 2017, 02:44:50 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 20, 2017, 11:42:48 AM
The case came with four holes in the lid, I guess the PO had a luggage rack on top at some point. They had been filled with silicon (sic!)
I dug out the old silicon, plastic welded the holes on the inside and have filled them to try and get them smooth for paint.
Now the issue. Four or maybe even five times now I have put filler on the holes, left it to go dry and sanded with either 280 or 400 wet n dry paper using a sanding block.
Every single time I end up with a indent where the holes were. I am not sure why...
I am using a bondo type filler that I have to add the chemical hardener to just before using it.
I can obviously just keep on trying but as this is the first time I have ever done anything like this I thought I would see if I am missing an easy trick or something...
Post by: The Dude on March 20, 2017, 01:15:55 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 20, 2017, 01:20:09 PM
Post by: The Dude on March 20, 2017, 01:43:23 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 20, 2017, 02:08:32 PM
Put on the thinnest layer that fills the indentation with just a millimeter more. An easy way to do it is to put a couple layers of masking tape around the hole and use the tape as grounds to run your spreader on. Your Bondo layer will stand proud by the thickness of the tape.
Let it cure overnight before sanding. I am assuming you are using a block
Post by: Filmcamera on March 20, 2017, 03:15:42 PM
I hope the catalyst is new, that is to say I brought it on Friday so it should be.
I will try again tomorrow morning and see how it goes
Thanks for the tips
Post by: Filmcamera on March 20, 2017, 05:31:53 PM
Now I just wait for the morning...
If they look ok then it is primer and paint - rattle can and my first attempt so fingers crossed it turns out ok.
I am thinking two coats of primer then knock it back with 600 grit wet and dry then paint, probably fours coats.
As I said this is my first attempt at any kind of painting so I am learning tons as I go. I figured a 35 lt top case is a good thing to practice on since Johnny will berate me the moment I fit it anyway! Add to that I will normally use the 'iconic' 22 and so if it turns out rubbish I can just shrug and try again.
(Edit) looking at the pic makes me think that maybe bright 34 C sunlight might not have been the best place to do that... :dunno2:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 21, 2017, 01:10:14 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 21, 2017, 01:17:00 PM
Anyway I sanded this morning and three of four holes seem to be dealt with. One remains, so I will try again tomorrow after the primer has dried overnight.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 21, 2017, 02:56:50 PM
A square gallon jug like milk comes in can be cut into 4"x4" squares for mixing the Bondo on. Take a rounded tablespoon of sand. Dump it and look at it. That is about the size of a lump of Bondo that I mix at one time for filling holes and surface defects. Mix that with a 1/4" wide by 3/8" to 1/2" long bead of catalyst. Mix well for 15-20 seconds with a popsicle stick and take a bit on the blade of the spreader. Spread once in one direction, followed by one pass in the opposite direction. Press down onto the tape, but not enough to noticeably bend the spreader. If you have done everything right you will have left a nice thin layer of Bondo with a smooth, level surface.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 26, 2017, 05:25:13 PM
I went down to the beach with my wife yesterday and got there no problem.
This morning we set off home and I noticed the battery felt a little flat when I started the bike.
We set off and about 20 miles from home the engine died. When I tried to restart the battery was flat. My assumption was an alternator failure.
We got a tow truck home and I plugged the bike up to a battery charger, after three hours on the charge she started right up, so for me that confirms the alternator issue.
Time to read the lieberry and learn about alternators!
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2017, 05:46:46 PM
. . . after three hours on the charge she started right up, so for me that confirms the alternator issue.How old is the battery? Are you certain you don't have a circuit that is draining the battery?
Post by: Filmcamera on March 26, 2017, 05:49:11 PM
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2017, 05:57:17 PM
. . . why would the battery go flat after 40 miles of 4-5k revs unless the alternator wasn't charging?It would go flat if it was an old battery unable to hold a charge; that is why the question was asked.
Good luck.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 26, 2017, 06:04:18 PM
If you have a meter, start the bike and measure the voltage on the battery terminals. It should be about 13.8v when the engine is running and the alternator is charging.
Check the alternator for a loose B+ connection. If it is loose and you are lucky, the loose connection will keep the battery from being charged. If it is loose and you are not lucky, you may have blown the diodes in the alternator.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 26, 2017, 06:10:00 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 26, 2017, 06:13:23 PM
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2017, 06:20:43 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 26, 2017, 06:21:26 PM
With the bike running- but not up to temp yet - I am only getting 12.25 volts at the battery terminals
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2017, 06:24:07 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 26, 2017, 06:36:29 PM
When we set off to the beach the battery felt fine, it was only this morning when I started her up to come back that the battery felt a little sluggish.
I have done 100 mile plus rides a few times with no issues so far, this feels like a new issue to me.
The last time I did put it on the tender the battery said it was fully charged after, I think, about four hours on the tender.
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2017, 08:36:27 PM
. . . this feels like a new issue to me.It was a new issue for the rider who wrote the post in that link, too.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 26, 2017, 08:42:26 PM
Tomorrow when the battery is fully charged I will see the output when the bike is running, check all the connections and then see where I am.
I really hope it is as simple as a loose connection, all I am saying is it doesn't feel like that is the issue.
I am pretty sure it is the alternator but will go through all the trouble shooting procedures to eliminate the other possibilities before saying that for certain.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 26, 2017, 11:59:32 PM
If you are only seeing 12.25V when the engine is running you have a charging problem with the alternator. The low output of the alternator and the resulting draining of the battery is what triggered the ABS fault, which is probably for low voltage to the ABS computer.
The fastest way to get to the bottom of things is to pull the alternator and get it to an automotive electrical shop. It will take them less than 5 minutes to test your alternator and tell you if it is good or tell you what the problem is. If there is a problem, they can give you an estimate of how long and how much to fix it.
When you have the alternator out you can also check the drive dog. I had a problem with the charging system on my RT that turned out to be caused by the drive dog's splines stripping out. This resulted in the dog slipping on it's drive shaft and when the alternator was under load the dog slipped and didn't turn the alternator fast enough to get any output. It's a weird problem, and I have never heard of anyone else having it, but it's something to check while the alternator is out. Just grab the dog and see if you can turn it. If you can, it's stripped and probably needs to be replaced.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 27, 2017, 12:38:04 PM
I am going to hope that was it and keep riding the bike, though short distances only for now while I see if the problem reoccurs.
Oh and no the battery light never came on at any point, but the bulb does work because it lights up before starting the engine.
Thanks for all the tips and fingers crossed it was just that slightly loose connection.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 27, 2017, 01:53:40 PM
Let's hope that you didn't pop the diodes. Sounds like they should still be good if you were able to get 14,2v coming out.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 27, 2017, 02:32:47 PM
Post by: The Dude on March 27, 2017, 05:58:40 PM
Yep cold be. I will keep an eye on the battery and see how things goBest method.
Some hints:when you connect your fully charged battery to the bike's electrical system( with all known things switched off)how much of an arc occurs as you brush the wire terminal against the battery post?If it's more than a digital clocks worth then...find it.
The battery contains many starts with no discernible difference in feel until when on a,possibly,cold morning she failed to crank.If there is any energy left in the battery a push start should be possible and with no lights and minimal amount of horn use you can go some way toward home.
Did you try push starting it?Does your bike exclude any of that through interlocks?
It's my go to start method with any sniff of battery voltage drop on my86 brick.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 27, 2017, 06:35:30 PM
In fact the engine died completely as we coasted to a stop, so I am not sure it would have started anyway.
I am pretty sure the engine had been running on the battery.
The load shed does kill most stuff when I crank it but I cannot turn off the headlights when the engine is running.
I took it for a spin today and I do think there is something up with the alternator. I only did a 15 mile trip so had no worries getting home but when I did I checked the voltage and at idle it was only kicking out 12.2 V. Later when my son is home I will try again when he can help me by revving the throttle as I have the probes on the battery connections.
Maybe there is something loose in there? The road up to my house is a badly rutted concrete road and does jolt things around a heck of a lot.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 27, 2017, 07:46:35 PM
When I cranked it when cold I am getting 12.7 V on idle and 14.2 V when revved to 3000.
So can anything about a hot/warm engine cause the alternator to produce less voltage?
Maybe I should try and find and install an aftermarket volt meter so I can monitor real time.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 27, 2017, 08:33:29 PM
How much do you have to increase the rpm before you can see the brightness increase?
What is the voltage at that rpm?
At what rpm can you read 13.8v on the meter?
You need to get some test leads with alligator clips on them so you can leave your probes connected to the battery while you do things like work the throttle.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 28, 2017, 11:37:07 AM
It is very odd.
I made four videos, which unless you are really bored I wouldn't suggest you watch...
However to summarise
When the bike is totally cold (video 1) I get a low reading when on idle but fine when revved up a little
Video 2 is as the bike is starting to warm up and shows the light bulb dimming slightly on idle
Video 3 is the bike up to temp (ie no choke) but still cold. That shows a perfect alternator and tons of voltage.
Video 4 is where it gettings interesting. I left the bike idling for maybe 15 minutes, by then the temp needle is in the middle or slightly above. I noticed the idle started to waver a little and took another video. All of a sudden the battery light is flickering on at idle and ever when revved most of the time there is almost no voltage (12.2 or so) with occasioanl bursts of normal output (14 v)
Has anyone seen anything like this before?
As a side note my fan does NOT come on automatically as the bike heats up. It did the very first time I installed the new loom but very shortly afterwards stopped again - I installed a manual switch so I can turn it on when I need to.
Here are the videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpZahRhyILo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpZahRhyILo)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAhfaNr2Qlg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAhfaNr2Qlg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUBSNYzhTbs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUBSNYzhTbs)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1p6cE8oXNMg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1p6cE8oXNMg)
Post by: Filmcamera on March 28, 2017, 11:49:17 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 28, 2017, 12:25:42 PM
With a totally still throttle hand the revs vary wildly when the bike is at normal operating temp - or at least about half way up the gauge.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj9kCnOEuyg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj9kCnOEuyg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7LfaLRqi0Y (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7LfaLRqi0Y)
Post by: Filmcamera on March 28, 2017, 01:12:01 PM
Post by: Martin on March 28, 2017, 01:44:11 PM
Rectifier in the alternator stuffed and overcharged and stuffed the battery. Overcharging the battery can cause the battery to overheat and explode resulting in battery acid everywhere. Get the alternator repaired or replaced along with a new battery.
Regards Martin..
Post by: Filmcamera on March 28, 2017, 01:51:44 PM
Post by: Martin on March 28, 2017, 02:09:59 PM
Probably, the maximum it should be charging is 14.5v yours goes up to 17 + v which puts more load on the alternator which reduces revs. If you feel the side of the battery it should be hot due to the overcharging, but I wouldn't run it until I got it repaired or replaced. I've had a battery blow out, it is not good unless you have access to lots of water and a doctor. :nono It might be possible to just replace the rectifier in your alternator plenty of information on doing this on the net.
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2017, 04:02:22 PM
How long had the engine been running when things started acting strange? Was the alternator getting warm? As I suggested in an earlier post you should get the alternator out and to an automotive electrical shop for testing, although because the problem appears to be heat related they will have a hard time replicating your problem.
Right now, if it were me, I would just get the brushes, regulator and diodes replaced. If I am not mistaken, they are all in a single unit in these alternators. Trying to run with things as they are will just wreck the rest of the electrical stuff including among other things the AB$ brain, engine control unit and the hall effect $en$or$.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Internal-Voltage-Regulator-BMW-K-12-31-1-459-286-EnDuraLast-BOALT-REG286A-/371904380730?fits=Make%3ABMW%7CModel%3AK100RS&hash=item56973a7f3a:g:mIkAAOSwo4pYXWnF&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Internal-Voltage-Regulator-BMW-K-12-31-1-459-286-EnDuraLast-BOALT-REG286A-/371904380730?fits=Make%3ABMW%7CModel%3AK100RS&hash=item56973a7f3a:g:mIkAAOSwo4pYXWnF&vxp=mtr)
Post by: Revrdmark on March 28, 2017, 04:12:51 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Filmcamera on March 28, 2017, 04:40:58 PM
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Post by: The Dude on March 28, 2017, 04:52:37 PM
Post by: Martin on March 28, 2017, 05:07:20 PM
Check for bulging on the sides of the battery if you detect bulging battery more than likely cactus. You might want to cross more than your fingers with the voltages you have pumped into your battery. Never know your luck in the big city, keep us informed. :popcorm
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2017, 05:14:41 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on March 28, 2017, 05:49:11 PM
The good news is that there is no visible bulging on the battery so my fingers remained crossed that it is ok. It is lso showing 12.80 V right now, I will keep an eye on it.
In the photo of the alternator what is supposed to plug into the single spade? There was nothing there and judging by the state of the spade there hasn't been for a long time.
Also a picture of the famous monkey nutz - I have no idea what a good monkey nut looks like so opinions are welcome.
Lastly the alternator came out very easily - I have sneaking suspicion getting it back in and lined up with the nutz might be another story!
Post by: Martin on March 28, 2017, 05:56:33 PM
Not to be too personal but your nutz look good. Long bolts with the heads cut off help when replacing the alternator, and a dab of rubber or heavy silicone grease can help to keep your nuts located.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 28, 2017, 06:00:16 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2017, 07:21:38 PM
I don't know what that other terminal is for, but since everything worked in the past and the electrical drawings only show two wires connected to the alternator, the chances are pretty good that it isn't needed.
Looking forward to hearing what the alternator test finds.
Post by: Filmcamera on March 28, 2017, 07:35:48 PM
Post by: Laitch on March 28, 2017, 08:09:43 PM
. . . and a dab of rubber or heavy silicone grease can help to keep your nuts located.Doesn't look like he's dislocated his nuts yet but his continuing obsession with this problem might bring that about. :giggles
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 07, 2017, 03:31:18 PM
Post by: Laitch on April 07, 2017, 05:07:43 PM
. . . does anyone know how to adjust the preload when you do not have the wrench?It's a 412, right? You can see what you need to do. You put the bike on the center stand to get the rear wheel off the ground then imitate a wrench by grabbing the adjuster ring with a leather glove and rotating it with eye-popping force and a primal grunt. You could rotate it within the padded jaws of a long-handled water pump plier. You could smack it with a screwdriver and mallet but that would bite the edge. You could trace the perimeter and have an imitation cut from plate steel with a torch and using an illustration of the wrench to locate the position of the tooth. You could use the one in your tool kit that you use to measure your transmission fluid, if it's still there, if you have a tool kit.
Many options beneath the tropical sun.
Post by: Martin on April 07, 2017, 05:14:46 PM
Or buy an adjustable "C" spanner from a tool shop.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 07, 2017, 05:20:32 PM
Until then I will try some of the other methods, thanks.
I am putting on a short person 412 - 13.2 inches. I am looking forward to seeing the difference, coming off is what I am pretty sure is the original Showa B007 which is totally shot, I lose traction a number of times as the rear wheel bounces on the way up my hill.
Meanwhile the alternator has been in the shop for over a week and they haven t even told me if they can fix it yet. Precious dry season days are being wasted, the rainy season typically starts after Easter :musicboohoo:
Post by: Martin on April 07, 2017, 05:23:38 PM
Post by: Laitch on April 07, 2017, 06:00:40 PM
Ebay "C" spanners start at $7.00 non adjustable $10.00 adjustable.Good call, Martin. I was a little too third world in my thinking.
Post by: Laitch on April 07, 2017, 06:42:58 PM
I lose traction a number of times as the rear wheel bounces on the way up my hill.Which gear are you typically using when you're bouncing?
Post by: Filmcamera on April 07, 2017, 06:49:33 PM
Post by: Laitch on April 07, 2017, 06:52:30 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on April 07, 2017, 07:00:28 PM
20170407_165611-1008x756.jpg (121.53 kB . 768x576 - viewed 304 times)Post by: Laitch on April 07, 2017, 07:16:15 PM
Not that high, about 1000m above sea level and yes down hill is fun - especially two up - when my brakes were on the fritz I used to go down super slowly.The Vermont Driver's Manual thirty years ago had a statement that I thought was quintessentially pithy, having come up from Miami where aggressive driving and road rage were performance art in 1980. In its opening paragraph it stated, Sometimes, five miles an hour is too fast.
Tourists don't believe that until they hear it when being pulled from a snowbank. :giggles
Post by: Filmcamera on April 11, 2017, 12:49:21 PM
The problem, however, is that I now cannot get the bike on the center stand anymore. I did finally manage to but only by building a ramp to raise the rear wheel a couple of inches more so I could get the center stand further down and get more leverage on it.
I think I am going to stick with it anyway. I can keep a ramp at home for getting it on the center stand and use the side stand when I am out and about. I know that might lead to smoky brick syndrome a bit but honestly the bike is now so low that the side stand angle is a lot less than normal (though still enough to feel safe).
I have not been able to test ride it yet, I am still waiting for the alternator to be fixed, which will be next week at the earliest now since it is Semana Santa this week (Easter) and the whole country closes down for the week.
Post by: Martin on April 11, 2017, 02:25:47 PM
You could remove the centre stand and cut it down and sleeve it. It would give you something to do over Semana Santa.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 11, 2017, 06:14:25 PM
Before I make any long term decisions I need to ride it, I am worried it is going to bottom out a lot going up and down my hill.
Time will tell.
Meanwhile here are a couple of photos
20170411_160557-1008x756.jpg (70.27 kB . 768x576 - viewed 280 times) 20170411_160607-756x1008.jpg (38.13 kB . 432x576 - viewed 314 times) 20170411_161105-756x1008.jpg (40.18 kB . 432x576 - viewed 316 times)Post by: Martin on April 12, 2017, 02:50:25 AM
If you were in the US you could probably pick up a spare stand cheap off one of the Café builders. Probably not much of a chance where you are.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 12, 2017, 05:51:30 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on April 13, 2017, 08:14:53 AM
Post by: Laitch on April 13, 2017, 10:18:37 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 13, 2017, 10:30:09 AM
Post by: Laitch on April 13, 2017, 10:38:49 AM
Lowering the front will improve the handling with the lower rear end, but it will lower the center of gravity another 3/8" making it that much harder to get the bike up on the center stand.It's worth a try, not that I don't appreciate your negativity, Gryph.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 13, 2017, 10:44:03 AM
When I have used my ramp and put the bike on the center stand the rear tyre is 3 inches off the ground. I am worried that shock was built with a monolever set up in mind, not a paralever like mine and it might be too much of a height lowering.
Post by: Laitch on April 13, 2017, 10:46:27 AM
It will be next week before I can ride it though with the alternator situation.Did you get a method to adjust it? You were seeking one.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 13, 2017, 10:52:58 AM
Post by: Laitch on April 13, 2017, 11:15:51 AM
Costa Rica during semana santa is a ghost town, everything is shut.Holy Cow!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 13, 2017, 11:19:59 AM
It's worth a try, not that I don't appreciate your negativity, Gryph.
Speaking of negativity, I had a rather negative experience pulling out my back trying to lift my lowered K75S onto it's stand when I first got it.
The cam action of the center stand loses it's mechanical advantage as the bike is lowered. This combined with the additional distance you are required to raise the bike's 500+ pounds can indeed lead to some negativity. Pulled muscles and even a right side flop. Nice of you to notice.
Post by: Laitch on April 13, 2017, 11:27:39 AM
Nice of you to notice.It's all part of the service. :giggles
Post by: Filmcamera on April 13, 2017, 11:33:20 AM
Post by: Laitch on April 13, 2017, 11:41:06 AM
With my little ramp it is fine but taking it off the center stand it really crashes down pretty hard.I guess this is just one dog that won't hunt.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 13, 2017, 11:50:11 AM
Post by: Laitch on April 13, 2017, 11:57:53 AM
I think you might be right, I am hoping not though, it cost me $240 inc tax and shipping etc. I guess I might be able to sell it here though.I meant the centerstand not the shock. I think this shock is going to work as well or better than the other and you are going to be more at ease at a standstill. I agree with Martin. Be on the lookout for a center stand that you'll eventually be able to modify satisfactorily.
Parking it on the side stand will need to do. Any temporary smoke from arising from starting in that situation will repel mosquitoes. Flats in tubeless tires can be plugged without dismounting them. Ride on!
Post by: Filmcamera on April 13, 2017, 11:59:56 AM
Thanks for the advice.
Post by: Laitch on April 13, 2017, 12:04:24 PM
Post by: The Dude on April 13, 2017, 03:48:18 PM
The lowering may allow the center stand to ground when you do your next left hander with a dip at the apex and especially with your missus on board.It may be the stand's foot access extension which would trigger a rethink,hopefully.Like,just get rid of the stand.
Post by: Martin on April 13, 2017, 03:51:24 PM
When you pull up ask a couple of friendly locals to help you lift it onto the stand, tell them that you threw your back out cage fighting, or something equally impressive or intimidating.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 19, 2017, 07:53:38 PM
I was planning a test ride but then the heavens opened and that was that. The rainy season is here in a big way. In the last three days it has rained every day after lunch like clockwork.
Luckily the mornings are nice so I plan a quick burn tomorrow morning to test the alternator and the new shock.
The sunsets aren’t bad either
20170419_174626-1008x756.jpg (28.91 kB . 768x576 - viewed 313 times)Post by: Filmcamera on April 20, 2017, 02:07:31 PM
The new rear shock seems fine, it feels like the bike wants to fall into corners a little more but that may be my imagination, I am planning to lower the forks a little more in the triple tree to balance the new lower rear end so I will see how that effects the handling. I do think speed bumps are going to be an issue, especially two up but I am sure I can persuade the missus to stand up before we go over one!
With the alternator fixed the difference in the engine is amazing before at higher revs, 5k+ it always felt a little rough and unhappy, now it screams up there begging for more. Before I knew I found myself at 7 k in 3rd doing 80mph...
Post by: jc55 on April 20, 2017, 06:50:58 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on April 20, 2017, 06:57:56 PM
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?19881-Correct-Length-for-91-K100RS-(4-valve)-rear-shock (https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?19881-Correct-Length-for-91-K100RS-(4-valve)-rear-shock)
My bad for not checking, seems to ride ok, I just cannot easily use the center stand.
Post by: jc55 on April 20, 2017, 07:01:00 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on April 22, 2017, 12:01:06 PM
Point in case...
This morning it was a beautiful fresh day and so I decided to take my new shock for a proper test on some twisties on a short ride to the local town of Puriscal.
The bike was handing great and with a correctly working alternator so was the engine.
As I got more in to I started pushing more until, it was all high revving second and third gear turns.
On one straight bit I hit about 8500 revs in second and all of a sudden it felt like I had momentarily pulled the clutch then dumped it again. I shifted into third and everything was fine. I carried on riding in a spirited way and the next time I down shifted to second and accelerated hard I got the same thing again. I eased off and left the bike in third for 15 mins or so then gently dropped into second and accelerated very gently - same thing happened again.
It seems I have caught whatever ailed Motorhobo.
So for now first straight to third only while I hit up Motorhobo and see if he has worked out the issue.
Sigh - I was having SO much fun!!
Post by: mw074 on April 22, 2017, 01:10:54 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on April 22, 2017, 02:22:06 PM
Post by: Laitch on April 22, 2017, 03:14:16 PM
Does anyone know if the gearbox from a K100 RS 2v fits my 16v? Or if a K1100 RS gearbox fits mine?Somebody always knows. The crux is whether the transmission has mounting points for the forward end of the final drive rod that attaches to the transmission. Read this (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2866.msg16676.html#msg16676). Don't be put off by the title.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 22, 2017, 03:21:04 PM
The other option is to find out if the bits inside the tranny are the same and then just swap the innards from the new one into my existing housing,
Thanks Laitch
Post by: Laitch on April 22, 2017, 03:36:57 PM
I'd be tempted to disconnect and reconnect the battery and hope for a reset, magical thinker that I am. :giggles
Post by: Filmcamera on April 22, 2017, 03:41:56 PM
However since I had the same issue on 2nd at lower revs under gentle acceleration and only in 2nd not in 1st, 3rd or 4th no matter how hard I was accelerating I fear the worst.
The whole will it fit or won`t it issue has already got super complicated. From what I am reading it is possible that only the tranny from another K100 RS 16v will fit, not the K100 2v or the K1100 which would be a major pain.
Now I am trying to determine if the inside are same by going part by part....
Post by: Laitch on April 22, 2017, 04:36:18 PM
From what I am reading it is possible that only the tranny from another K100 RS 16v will fit, not the K100 2v or the K1100 which would be a major pain.That's not what I get from Frankenduck's post. The part numbers are different; that's certain. Don't jump the gun yet. Maybe somebody with more experience will chime in soon.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 22, 2017, 06:23:04 PM
He said
Second gear needs to be undercut
This being chinese to me I did some research and found this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl5SxlHo-rk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl5SxlHo-rk)
That seems like the perfect explanation of what is happening to me and Motorhobo.
It also seems like something that I might be able to have done here with a little luck.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gFXvgSsAJc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gFXvgSsAJc)
Post by: Laitch on April 22, 2017, 07:18:25 PM
Second gear needs to be undercutHelpful research and presentation, Filmcamera. Thanks!
Post by: Filmcamera on April 23, 2017, 08:15:29 AM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/401230552892 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/401230552892)
Chris Harris no less confirmed that a K1100RS tranny will fit my bike and there was one available on ebay in FL from a 1993 In shipping to my mail forwarding company it was $160. Though heavy it is not hugely bulky so I can use there by sea service to get it here. It will take a bit longer but that way I should be able to keep tax and shipping down to another $100. So in the end $260 for a new tranny rather than trying to take mine apart and find someone to undercut second seemed to make sense. It also means the original one can possibly be used for spares in the future if needed.
Post by: Laitch on April 23, 2017, 08:24:21 AM
. . . on ebay in FL from a 1993 . . .Not just from FL but from the potato capital of FL. :2thumbup:
Post by: Filmcamera on April 23, 2017, 08:39:19 AM
It is actually a mine of potential spares at what looks like good prices for any K1100 RS owners out there
http://stores.ebay.com/MotoplaneParts/BMW-/_i.html?LH_TitleDesc=1&_nkw=project%3A+1635&_fsub=2546164011&_sid=1038412291&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 (http://stores.ebay.com/MotoplaneParts/BMW-/_i.html?LH_TitleDesc=1&_nkw=project%3A+1635&_fsub=2546164011&_sid=1038412291&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322)
I am going to post the link seperately as well in case anyone is looking for parts
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 23, 2017, 08:51:40 AM
I am going to guess that undercutting the dogs is a pretty touchy job with lots of set up time to get right. The machining alone is going to cost almost as much as your "new" transmission and there is no guarantee that it will correct the problem. Then there is the complete disassembly of your transmission to get the gear set out. Lots of opportunity to create more trouble there.
$260 sounds pretty cheap, especially so if it includes the ability to add a couple good seal boots, a spare shift lever and a working gear position switch to your spares inventory.
Post by: Filmcamera on April 23, 2017, 08:53:14 AM
Post by: bocutter Ed on April 23, 2017, 10:27:53 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on May 08, 2017, 11:31:14 AM
As to whether it is needed or not. Well I think it is a good idea to check the valve clearances once in a while but Chris Harris disagrees.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFkPnLVkxWQ&index=9&list=PLMqo5VIG0mVv0vdF8JDrAoeQoWxBm3CtR (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFkPnLVkxWQ&index=9&list=PLMqo5VIG0mVv0vdF8JDrAoeQoWxBm3CtR)
Post by: Filmcamera on May 08, 2017, 06:18:13 PM
The Englishman says - English is the language of poetry, take for example the word 'butterfly' it captures the epitome of the creature, the gentle soul and magic of its loveliness.
The Frenchman says - Ah but French is the language of love, take for example 'papillion' it captures perfectly the romance and beauty of the creature.
The German says - zo vat iz vrong mit schmetterling?
Post by: Filmcamera on May 09, 2017, 09:01:45 AM
10c K100RS4V, K1, K1100: Tighten the clutch nut to 140
Nm, loosen it and then retighten to 50 Nm.
That is 103 foot pounds first then loosen and tighten again to 37 ft lbs.
I have had no issues after doing it like that
Post by: Filmcamera on May 10, 2017, 08:36:48 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on May 13, 2017, 08:45:00 PM
It came with half a drive shaft, I have one U joint but not the other. My feeling is that I can use it in emergencies but generally it is not advisable to mix and match a drive shaft with a U joint, right?
The various shafts and splines all look good to me but I would appreciate a second opinion.
My plan is to install it on Tuesday (my older son has his day off then and can help me). More to follow
20170513_150334-756x1008.jpg (33.89 kB . 432x576 - viewed 307 times) 20170513_150346-756x1008.jpg (29.78 kB . 432x576 - viewed 329 times) 20170513_150354-756x1008.jpg (29.55 kB . 432x576 - viewed 315 times) 20170513_150407-756x1008.jpg (33.38 kB . 432x576 - viewed 313 times) 20170513_150418-1008x756.jpg (61.86 kB . 768x576 - viewed 295 times)Post by: Elipten on May 13, 2017, 08:47:59 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Post by: Martin on May 13, 2017, 08:55:50 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 14, 2017, 10:01:40 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on May 16, 2017, 10:37:14 PM
The bolts connecting the tranny to the frame are M8 on my bike. When I installed the new one it seems the LHS is M8 but the RHS is M6?? Is this even possible?
The tranny is from a 1993 K110 so maybe, but different size bolts on the left and right sides? Seems very unlikely. I am not sure whether to just go with M6 or to tap out the hole and make it M8 - I am slightly worried that the frame is meant to have a M8 so a M6 might cause issues of some type.
I also retorqued the clutch bolt to the correct torque and used my new clutch centering tool - wow does that make things easy! I also managed to get the entire rear brake system including ABS modulator off in one piece so no rebleeding needed. :clap:
If all goes well I should be able to do a test ride tomorrow.
Any input on the tranny to frame bolts sizes would be great, thanks.
Post by: Laitch on May 16, 2017, 10:51:00 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on May 16, 2017, 10:55:15 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 16, 2017, 11:58:34 PM
On my K100RS they are M10, and the K1100 also uses M10. An M6 is even small for attaching the transmission to the intermediate section. Those are all M8.
Post by: The Dude on May 17, 2017, 01:29:55 AM
Filmcamera, can you post a photo of the bolts in question?Seeing is believing.
Pass over the guaro.
Post by: Filmcamera on May 18, 2017, 05:47:28 PM
Anyway I drilled it out, put in a M10 helicoil and reused the correct sized original bol. Now the new tranny is installed and the bike is all back together and good to go.
I was about to go for a test ride when the heavens opened so I will try a quick ride tomorrow morning.
20170517_083424-756x1008.jpg (30.4 kB . 432x576 - viewed 263 times)Post by: Laitch on May 18, 2017, 05:55:50 PM
Well it was a M8 helicoil in the M10 hole - kept in the JB weld (I think) of all things.That must have been the result of milk punch and tobacco. Probably happened the same day they installed the front wheel flipped.
Your determination is inspiring. :2thumbup:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 18, 2017, 05:56:57 PM
Post by: The Dude on May 19, 2017, 12:11:22 AM
Stronger than new now though,unless it was bogged for a bad reason?
Post by: Martin on May 19, 2017, 12:39:58 AM
I've experienced worse I had a 64 Impala Company car, opened the door on a slope when I let go of the door it closed on my leg and just about broke it. :yow Took it back to work and removed the door trim, lower half of the door was filled with concrete and chicken wire. :mbird It had a beautiful paint job silver with a white roof, but on really close inspection was full of concrete and chicken wire. The salesmen who traded it had given the guy top dollar and copped heaps over it. In his defence it was the best job of concreting I've ever seen, it was a master piece Da Vinci would have been in awe. :clap: :hehehe
Regards Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on May 19, 2017, 05:06:42 PM
Post by: Motorhobo on May 20, 2017, 06:00:04 AM
Post by: Laitch on May 20, 2017, 07:31:13 AM
I did that with the moly too, but when I put it in a beaker and mixed it in with the gear oil, after pouring it into the transmission most of the power had already settled to a layer of sludge in the beaker -- so I'm wondering whether this solid mixed in with the oil will really do anything but separate out from the liquid and cake up on the floor of the transmission case.A few functions might be influencing what was observed by you, Motorhobo. If the volume of oil in the beaker was significantly less than the total volume of oil the transmission should contain, the solution in the beaker might have been saturated by the powder and could suspend no more powder. Second, the rate at which the powder dissolves might be dependent on the temperature of the oil. The amount of powder added might dissolve once the oil was warmed up. Last, two teaspoons might be excessive.
I think you should run the bike then drain the oil and search for precipitates. Do that a couple of times—maybe half a dozen, even more times using different amounts of powder. Keep careful records. I'm looking forward to your report as an entry in my diary. :popcorm
Post by: Motorhobo on May 20, 2017, 07:42:14 AM
Don't have time to drain, check, redrain, repeat, keep log book -- the stuff is in there now and it's going to stay in there forever if it's settled. Anyway, it's irrelevant whether the stuff is in there or in a beaker. You can measure how much is suspended permanently and how much settles on the bench with a measuring spoon, a beaker and an eggbeater. But my suspicion is that if the powder is heaver than the liquid, it will all settle eventually and enough of it got on the gear splines to do any good -- that's a question for hell if I know who.
Post by: Laitch on May 20, 2017, 07:44:55 AM
Don't have time to drain, check, redrain, repeat, keep log bookThat's a disappointment I'll just learn to live with. :giggles
Post by: Motorhobo on May 20, 2017, 07:48:38 AM
That's a disappointment I'll just learn to live with. :giggles
Don't disappoint yourself -- you've got beakers, eggbeaters and logbooks and lots of time on your hands -- we're counting on you! :2thumbup:
Post by: Laitch on May 20, 2017, 07:59:57 AM
Don't disappoint yourself -- you've got beakers, eggbeaters and logbooks and lots of time on your hands -- we're counting on you! :2thumbup:I'm out of beakers.
Post by: Elipten on May 20, 2017, 08:26:59 AM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Post by: Motorhobo on May 20, 2017, 08:34:12 AM
But seriously -- I'm wondering whether the moly powder can do any good if all it does is sink to the bottom. Maybe that's worth a separate thread...if anyone wants expend valuable brain cells on the issue.
Post by: Elipten on May 20, 2017, 08:46:41 AM
So let us hope for the stirring and mixing while riding occurs.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Post by: Laitch on May 20, 2017, 09:43:58 AM
Post by: The Dude on May 20, 2017, 03:38:06 PM
The fairy dust sinks to the bottom.Who'd have thought? :hehehe
I guess a good thrashing would stir it up some.
Post by: Martin on May 20, 2017, 05:53:23 PM
I use Molybond 2.5 in a tube it is suspended in some sort of lubricant. On gearbox changes there is no goop coming out on the change, however I am doing the changes hot, and didn't use it on the last change. So out of curiosity I will keep it to one side the next time I use it and allow it to settle. :dunno :popcorm
Regards Martin.
Post by: Motorhobo on May 20, 2017, 08:19:08 PM
Amusing observation 'hobo.
The fairy dust sinks to the bottom.Who'd have thought? :hehehe
I guess a good thrashing would stir it up some.
Well, from my perspective what's amusing is that the observation was less about the obvious fact that it sank to the bottom, but rather about the dense sludge that accumulated there. Seems you missed my point, The Dude -- the point being that it didn't just settle into a happy pile of feather-light fairy dust -- that would have been grand since just a bit of turbulence would suffice to propel it into a state of at least temporary suspension -- but instead it appears that the particles bonded with each other to create a sludgy goo that stuck to the bottom of the 'beaker' like thick, black donkey snot. And my suspicion is that the turbulence in the transmission isn't enough to stir up that donkey snot because it's not a collection of particles any more, but rather a solid. It took several passes with paper towels and Simply Green to get that snot out of the bottom of the 'beaker'. So -- it ain't pixie dust. If you think it is, put some in a 'beaker', stir it up and look at it yourself. Do I want that donkey snot in the bottom of my transmission or final drive case? I don't know -- I'm not passing judgement about whether it does any good, I"m just saying what happens to it when it is placed in the fluid environment of gear oil. But the point of whether it does any good is moot, because after observing the donkey snot firsthand, don't matter how many times I drain the fluid, that snot ain't coming out. It's in there and is staying in there, for better or worse, and anyone considering using it should be aware of that.
Post by: Elipten on May 20, 2017, 08:29:28 PM
What is the brand and specifications of the product you are dealing with?
I too bought some moly powder off eBay, but maybe a test is in order before getting black snot syndrome.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Post by: Motorhobo on May 20, 2017, 08:38:47 PM
Go ahead and mix some up if you get a minute Elipten, I'd be interested to hear your opinion.
Edit@Elipten -- On second reading I see you're talking about GD transmission additive, not paste -- I don't know why it's not separating -- what's the percentage moly and particle size in that additive? Maybe just too much was used and the recommended amount should be in the hundredths of a tablespoon rather than half and the particles are too large to suspend.
Post by: The Dude on May 21, 2017, 04:10:43 PM
:hehehe Motohobo :hehehe
Yep.Appologies for that,I did it deliberately,which could be considered unforgivable but for no malice intended.
It's still funny it sinking to the bottom and staying there.I was originally going to suggest a stick to stir it up with before your ride but I'm going to pull my head in instead. :hehehe
Post by: Filmcamera on May 24, 2017, 07:48:58 PM
I dropped the bike!
No huge damage but what a bummer.
Broken indicator lens (luckily glueable - yay superglue!)
Broken mirror - time to stick on some regular glass for now
A few scratches on mirror pod and fairing
All LHS.
20170524_174358-756x1008.jpg (31.46 kB . 432x576 - viewed 285 times) 20170524_174350-756x1008.jpg (38.95 kB . 432x576 - viewed 309 times) 20170524_174345-1008x756.jpg (70.38 kB . 768x576 - viewed 308 times) 20170524_174338-756x1008.jpg (39.62 kB . 432x576 - viewed 286 times)Time to practice my filling, sanding and painting skills.
Post by: Elipten on May 24, 2017, 08:03:45 PM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Post by: Filmcamera on May 24, 2017, 08:16:14 PM
Post by: Laitch on May 24, 2017, 08:17:10 PM
All LHS.Iconoclastic!
Now it's a question of how many times. :giggles
Post by: Motorhobo on May 24, 2017, 09:26:05 PM
No? I'll tell you anyway...
That's why...I've dropped all four of the ones I own/have owned at least once.
Some of us suspect you did it on purpose just to have an excuse to extend this endless thread :riding:
Post by: bocutter Ed on May 24, 2017, 10:04:47 PM
Time to practice my filling, sanding and painting skills.Can you paint/varnish and sand the driveway eg. create a non-slip surface?
Post by: Elipten on May 24, 2017, 10:08:58 PM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Post by: Filmcamera on May 24, 2017, 10:26:08 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on May 24, 2017, 10:37:06 PM
Post by: Laitch on May 24, 2017, 10:40:17 PM
Life in the tropics...What brand and model of tire are you using?
Post by: Filmcamera on May 25, 2017, 10:18:25 AM
Contiforce 160/60/ZR18 rear
Contimotion 120/60ZR17 front
both in good condition but of unknown age, maybe four years max
Post by: Filmcamera on May 25, 2017, 10:21:00 AM
Quote
Some of us suspect you did it on purpose just to have an excuse to extend this endless thread :riding:
Busted! For my next trick I plan to try high siding.. or maybe I should just go cafe racer :yow
Post by: Filmcamera on May 25, 2017, 01:57:46 PM
I took it for a quick spin today and it was running really rough. It backfired often as soon as I rolled off the throttle even at low rpm's. It hesitated and misfired when under gas and generally felt like it had no power.
Given was going 0 mph when the drop happened the only thing I can think of is that some oil or something got somewhere it shouldn't be when the bike was on its side. Some transmission fluid did leak out of the top of the transmission for example. Is that normal when a K bike is dropped?
I am working now so I can't really tear it down too much but when I have time is there anything specific I should be looking for? I did try searching running rough after a fall but didn't find anything specifically about after a fall just lots of general threads about rough running.
Post by: Laitch on May 25, 2017, 02:00:50 PM
I should be looking for?Check all your spark plug caps to verify they are fitting tightly to the plugs.
Post by: Laitch on May 25, 2017, 02:13:20 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on May 25, 2017, 02:14:28 PM
Post by: Laitch on May 25, 2017, 02:16:21 PM
Post by: The Dude on May 25, 2017, 04:51:15 PM
Similar symptoms er happened to me.Awe feck it,now I'm doing it.
I took it for a quick spin today and it was running really rough. It backfired often as soon as I rolled off the throttle even at low rpm's. It hesitated and misfired when under gas and generally felt like it had no power.
Factoids:
Took green goddess out into sun for a rinse and wipe before start procedure.
Key on,Idler lever full wack,clutch in(for less churning,less amps and less effing chance of the relay weld up after a while sitting less than two weeks),silent prayer,dab on the button.Brmmmm,sweet.
Full saftey gear on,fuck around with sunnies,get leg over,drop glove on the gorund just pick it up without falling off and vroom up the slope and fut, chug and splutter back to the sweetest idle.WTF!
Eh,the little sprung vac hose is off its nipple.
Ayy?Ah yes, perished.
Trimmed,gentle suck and tongue seal test for a couple a seconds,then push it on and off we go.
It was better.
Er,,,only just,splutter bog down all from idle upto 4500rpm but from then on we got rocket to the moon pulling as clean as.Oh well,I got my yeehaa.
Has yours got what mine's got,Filmcamera,or is it the other way round?This may be crucial in my approach for a solution.
My fix,currently,will be to fiddle with the Guzzi, whispering sweet nothings in full view of the Brick.Cerimonioulsly transfer the ex lawn mower battery over and ride that(the bike)whilst I pontificate my next BMW parts purchases and procedures and the sheep mow the grass...Make sure you let us know what you did,Filmcamera,I'm feeling lazy.
I got my Triumph hat on at the mo and this has dumbed me down somewhat in my technological conundruming ability,going back to the 'fifties(for a seventies bike)does that to me and I love it.A simpler world.All that future techno stuff,oh well.Luck and serendipity can only take me so far,though,I'll be needing my Brick back sometime soon.
Post by: Filmcamera on May 25, 2017, 04:57:44 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on May 26, 2017, 08:31:39 AM
This is a daily occurrence at this time of year
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeEqeJy5Pl0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeEqeJy5Pl0)
Post by: bmwpyro on May 26, 2017, 12:14:16 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on May 26, 2017, 02:54:29 PM
Post by: The Dude on May 26, 2017, 03:11:23 PM
I went out for a quick spin this morning and the bike feels much better. I think the loose coil connection was the issue, thanks Laitch, good call!Sweet!
Post by: Filmcamera on June 01, 2017, 11:06:07 AM
I am not sure what to do now, live with it for the moment I think. I do not know of a good mechanic here to try and replace the buckets and yes that includes the BMW dealer. I don't feel up to the job myself yet. So I will check again next year and see how they are doing.
I also attempted to balance the throttle bodies and discovered I have a pretty big vacuum leak on the number two cylinder. When I had the carb tune pro attached the vacuum tube hardly registered at all but if I pressed down on the air intake it started to show up. I am thinking that is a leak. Time to order some bushings and intake manifolds. I would be interested to get a report on the new injectors some people have ordered, it seems this might be the time to do that as well.
Valve clearances attached in case anyone is interested
Valve clearance chart.docx (14.09 kB - downloaded 95 times)[ Invalid Attachment ]
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: riots100 on June 01, 2017, 03:29:40 PM
I do not know of a good mechanic here to try and replace the buckets and yes that includes the BMW dealer. I don't feel up to the job myself yet
Do the buckets need replacing? Generally you would replace the valve shims that ride on top of the buckets. Replacing valve shims isn't hard with the right tool. To replace the buckets you will need to remove the camshafts. Putting it back together requires attention to detail, but certainly not beyond your abilities considering everything that you've already done to this bike.
(and as a film cameraman, you should know better than to post vertical phone video... :nono )
Post by: Laitch on June 01, 2017, 06:13:38 PM
Do the buckets need replacing? Generally you would replace the valve shims that ride on top of the buckets.The four-valve engines are different animals from the two-valve, riots. They don't have shim-and-bucket adjustment. They just have inverted buckets; the cam pushes on the bottom of the bucket. Instead of replacing shims, you replace buckets to the tune of 28–35USD each from the dealer. The camshafts must be removed to replace the buckets. Fun, huh? I'm starting to understand and appreciate the differences.
4v cam follower. Diagram from MAXBMW parts fiche.png (48.05 kB . 510x360 - viewed 303 times)Like you say though, Filmcamera is up to the task.
Post by: Filmcamera on June 01, 2017, 06:20:20 PM
The real pain is there is no way of knowing what size buckets you need until you have taken the old ones out to measure them so you can order ones 0.05 mm or whatever shorter. In my case that means the bike would be off the road for at least three weeks waiting for the new buckets to wend their way here. Since I had 10 out of 16 valves out of spec that is a lot of buckets!
First priority is the vacuum leak, then at least the bike will run and ride ok whilst I get together the cash for the buckets.
Riding it is after all what I want to be doing, at this time of year that is what weekend mornings are made for!
Post by: Laitch on June 01, 2017, 06:24:47 PM
In my case that means the bike would be off the road for at least three weeks waiting for the new buckets to wend their way here. Since I had 10 out of 16 valves out of spec that is a lot of buckets!Tight? Loose? Exhaust? Intake? You're killing us with suspense. I'd get a different feeler gauge and measure them again. The humidity might be affecting your vision.
Post by: Filmcamera on June 01, 2017, 06:30:10 PM
Anyway all the valves out of spec were tight, six of the intakes and four of the exhausts. Not crazy tight except for cylinder one both intakes which was a go with o.10mm but no go with 0.13mm with the spec range being 0.15 mm to 0.020 mm. The rest of the intakes were go with 0.13 mm and no go with 0.15 mm. Finally cylinder 3 was go with 0.15 and no go with 0.18 for both
Of the exhausts both valves on cylinders one and two were go with 0.23 mm no go with 0.25 with the spec range being 0.25 mm to -.30 mm, the others were fine 0.28 go 0.30 no go and 0.25 go 0.28 no go
Post by: Laitch on June 01, 2017, 06:40:34 PM
I posted the chart in the earlier. . .I overlooked the chart. Thanks for the spec review. It's probably good for both you and the bike that you looked in on them. I'd still check them with a different gauge—applied magical thinking sometimes works. :giggles
Anyway all the valves out of spec were tight, six of the intakes and four of the exhausts.
There's always GoFundMe. The narrative should go something like I'm stuck in Costa Rica during the rainy season and the friend who's staying with me needs an operation. Her valves might give out soon without it.
Post by: Filmcamera on June 01, 2017, 06:48:36 PM
Hi congratulations you have won the lottery for $2 million, all you need to do is send $2,000 to cover the state tax and we will send you the $2 million...
Either that or timeshares, coffee businesses or gold options - it is something of a haven for US ex pats selling fake deals over the phone.
The main hurdle I need to overcome is the minister of finance, she who must be obeyed, I get very stern looks every time I come home with a box marked MaxBMW... :hehehe
Post by: The Dude on June 01, 2017, 07:33:48 PM
Tinkering will give way to strict methoding.The method is designed to progress through the task with no room for error.Apart from the maths calculating the new bucket size in each case and ensuring the cam timing is returned as it was,it will be pretty straight forward.Keep it clean.
I would consider not riding until sorted to preserve the valve face life.
All the best.
Post by: Martin on June 01, 2017, 09:54:26 PM
A good engineering shop ( if such a thing exists in your area) should be able to lap them down. They should be able to do it without effecting the surface hardness if there is only minor wear.
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 02, 2017, 08:54:44 AM
The main hurdle I need to overcome is the minister of finance, she who must be obeyed, I get very stern looks every time I come home with a box marked MaxBMW... :hehehe
Have you tried bribing her with the M&M's? "Look, honey, I got you some M&M's, and they even included some parts for the bike!"
Post by: Filmcamera on June 02, 2017, 08:56:53 AM
It shall be done...
Maybe I can get MaxBMW to send red wine instead, then I would be golden
Post by: Laitch on June 02, 2017, 09:38:08 AM
Have you tried bribing her with the M&M's? "Look, honey, I got you some M&M's, and they even included some parts for the bike!"If that doesn't work, get a couple of packages from Tom of Finland. She'll be glad to see only MAXBMW boxes after that.
Post by: Filmcamera on June 08, 2017, 07:31:25 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on July 04, 2017, 02:50:57 PM
Lovely ride, beautiful weather and great scenery.
Happy 4th to you all
Bike is running great!
July 4th ride.jpg (43.72 kB . 768x432 - viewed 353 times) GOPR1956-view.jpg (43.49 kB . 768x432 - viewed 361 times) GOPR1956-cg.jpg (62.32 kB . 768x432 - viewed 350 times)Post by: K1300S on July 04, 2017, 06:21:39 PM
Post by: johnny on July 04, 2017, 08:23:42 PM
that last photo... is that you or your wife...
j o
Post by: Filmcamera on July 04, 2017, 08:40:05 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on July 21, 2017, 01:41:26 PM
it looks great and she who must be obeyed says it is much more comfortable.
Next job - raise the foot pegs for her.
20170721_112052-1008x756.jpg (73.75 kB . 768x576 - viewed 454 times)Post by: Filmcamera on July 25, 2017, 06:49:07 PM
No major issues except I had to angle them forward when I put on the tragkorbs because they were too close otherwise, giving her no heel room.
20170725_163651-756x1008.jpg (43.07 kB . 432x576 - viewed 407 times)
Post by: Filmcamera on July 27, 2017, 06:08:32 PM
It has been 30 years since we met so I think I am ok in skipping work to see him!
Great ride down in the morning, clear and cool and the bike running like a champ. Less fun on the way back, very muggy and I got rained on pretty hard.
Worth it though for sure!
https://a.rever.co/embed/rides/589698 (https://a.rever.co/embed/rides/589698) here is a map from a new app I am trying
EDIT: BTW my new Russell seat is just brilliant. 4+ hours of saddle time and I got off fresh as a daisy!
20170727_105520-1008x756.jpg (46.55 kB . 768x576 - viewed 355 times) Screenshot_20170727-161356.jpg (21.93 kB . 324x576 - viewed 334 times)Post by: Filmcamera on July 28, 2017, 10:49:28 AM
I did a 200 mile ride yesterday in hot weather but at normal revs, cruising at around 5000 rpm.
I checked the oil before I went and it was at exactly the right level. When I got back I let the bike cool down for an hour or so and checked again, the oil level was at the very bottom of the sight glass. It took I would estimate one third of a quart or so to get it back up to the correct level.
So given my bike has at least 125,000 miles on the clock (I say at least because the speedo and odometer were not working when I got it and said 123,000) does that sound like a high amount of oil to use?
Post by: Chaos on July 28, 2017, 11:59:17 AM
Post by: Revrdmark on July 28, 2017, 01:07:17 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Martin on July 28, 2017, 04:16:43 PM
Bricks don't like sitting, and it seems due to the design of the engine if left sitting for long periods the rings can become sticky. You can either run a high detergent oil briefly to unstick them or just ride it until the rings free themselves up. A mates Brick was prodigious smoker when he first got them it. It had been sitting for long periods of inactivity, however it eventually settled down, and now only smokes after being left on the side stand.
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on July 28, 2017, 07:38:47 PM
high usage is not necessarily bad as long as you don't let it get too low.:2thumbup:If it ran ok I'd just chuck it up to one of the joys of riding a 25 year old bike and keep a few quarts on the shelf and check it before you head out to ride.
If you aren't seeing clouds of blue smoke in the air or pools of oil on the ground, don't worry about it. Check it before the day's first ride and avoid overfilling it.
Post by: Filmcamera on July 28, 2017, 08:50:28 PM
I have new hoses etc for the throttle bodies on the way and when they I fit them I think I might take off the valve cover again and be a little more liberal with the silicon when putting it back, I have the impression the bikes runs marginally hotter than before I checked the valve clearances and uses a little more oil so it could be there is a very slight leak, though no pools of oil on the floor.
Post by: Scott_ on July 28, 2017, 10:38:12 PM
point in case... I check mine daily before I pull it out of the garage. Normal level is at the dot.
One morning it was at the low level line, ok, so I filled it half way up to the dot, knowing it likes to hide oil.
Next day it was up to the dot. 2nd day it was now almost at the upper limit line.
Since then it has been between the upper level line and the center dot, slowly working it's way back down.
I've had the levels fluctuate up and down quite often.
As long as it is above the low level line, don't be over zealous in overfilling it, above the center dot.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 29, 2017, 09:45:44 AM
This bike uses oil, a lot more oil than my K75's that go at least 3-4 thousand miles on a quart of oil. When I got it, oil usage was about a quart every 6-700 miles. While it doesn't smoke after the engine warms up, I have been told there was a definite scent of oil when other riders followed me.
Compression is good and uniform across all cylinders, so I didn't suspect rings. I replaced the valve guide seals, and the head gasket. Oil consumption decreased slightly to about a quart every 850-900 miles. Better, but not as good as my other bricks. I replaced the rear main seal and the o-ring which was leaking when I did the seals.
Right now I am thinking the oil control rings are shot. I have put over 12,000 miles on the bike now and done Seafoam flushes and use Rotella T6 with no further improvement. At the rate the bike uses oil, I can buy enough T6 to keep the oil topped up for about 50,000 miles for the cost of parts for doing the rings. Why bother to fix them?
My daily commute is about 105 miles, and every morning I add about 4oz. of oil as part of my pre-ride check. No big deal. I also carry a 12 oz. bottle of oil in the cowl for longer trips.
Post by: Filmcamera on July 29, 2017, 09:48:12 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on July 29, 2017, 10:46:16 AM
Post by: johnny on July 29, 2017, 11:25:08 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on July 29, 2017, 01:00:32 PM
Thanks once again for your sage and invaluable advice.
I shall, as always, give it the importance and weight it deserves.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 29, 2017, 01:05:18 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on July 29, 2017, 01:25:34 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on August 06, 2017, 03:47:42 PM
Once I had taken everything off there was a lot of dirt and muck etc, around the engine block.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Is all that black stuff normal? I am guessing it is carbon and or oil. I want to clean it all off but am a little worried about dropping a bunch of crap into the engine.
The rest of the fuel system did not look much better.
I am going to try my best and clean it all up and see how she runs afterwards.
One last thing, has anyone used a reusable clamp instead of the once time use clamp part 11 61 1 460 900
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: Martin on August 06, 2017, 03:57:14 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on August 06, 2017, 05:24:02 PM
Apparently Suzuki have ones that fit,http://www.k100-forum.com/t7753-plug-wires#94719
Post by: billday on August 06, 2017, 08:27:20 PM
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,624.0.html
(Ask The Management to do something to make the pictures come back.)
You do not need to use the "One-Time Clamps," but you *do* need to get the right stuff. It's available from McMaster-Carr, be a good neighbor and use the search function before asking for answers that have already been answered.
Good luck!
Post by: johnny on August 06, 2017, 08:42:25 PM
you can getts the pictures to come back... its quite easy... pony up 399$ to each of the posters photobucket accounts...
quite simple...
j o
Post by: riots100 on August 06, 2017, 08:50:06 PM
Is all that black stuff normal? I am guessing it is carbon and or oil.
If the black stuff is wet, then it is oil, and that would be a problem. If it is dry and powdery, it is carbon and is normal given the age of the bike. You usually see black carbon deposits on the exhaust ports and a brown/burnt carbon build up on the intake ports.
Post by: billday on August 06, 2017, 09:02:07 PM
greetings...
you can getts the pictures to come back... its quite easy... pony up 399$ to each of the posters photobucket accounts...
quite simple...
j o
Ok . . . I'm on it . . .
Post by: Filmcamera on August 06, 2017, 09:09:07 PM
Post by: Hilltopper46 on August 06, 2017, 10:39:27 PM
http://www.k100-forum.com/t7753-plug-wires#94719 (http://www.k100-forum.com/t7753-plug-wires#94719)
Those 48MM Suzuki clamps are good for the bushing (rubber tube) to the intake, but for the throttle body to the air cleaner boots, you will have them tightened as far as you possibly can and they just hold.
Post by: Filmcamera on August 07, 2017, 05:26:57 PM
That means when the PO said it had been laid up -for a couple of years - it appears it was more like seven or eight. The tyres had maybe 500 miles of wear on them when I got the bike. Now this is CR so I can see a dealer selling 3 year old tyres but even so that means there were fitted in 2010 at the latest.
So a couple is probably more like six years.
I know I should change the tyres instantly but I am not going to just yet, a pair of tyres here is at least $600 and it is not like I am racing the bike so I will keep riding on them for now.
20170807_152325-756x1008.jpg (35.85 kB . 432x576 - viewed 404 times) 20170807_152349-756x1008.jpg (34.24 kB . 432x576 - viewed 449 times)
Post by: Filmcamera on August 12, 2017, 10:24:39 AM
Just finally had time for a test ride after doing the CO pot, TPS and TBs
What a huge difference, suddenly the bike is just raring to go and pulls hard all the way to 8000+
It is also running much smoother.
I love it!
Thanks very much for all the help, especially Young Engineer who helped me do the CO Pot.
Post by: Filmcamera on August 17, 2017, 04:48:56 PM
I hope to be able to repair it but if anyone has a spare hinge or back rest for sale that would be great - the OEM prices on Max BMW are insane
[ Invalid Attachment ]
[ Invalid Attachment ]
[ Invalid Attachment ]
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: Laitch on August 17, 2017, 05:12:33 PM
My iconic 22 liter tragkorb lid decided to commit suicide today by opening at 80 MPH and then . . .That's a classic scenario. That's why Chaos rigged his this way. I think he riveted a piano hinge on the opposite side but maybe he used gate hinges.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: The Dude on August 18, 2017, 12:08:41 AM
It's good you noticed it gone and they are fun to follow down the road. :riding: sorta like delaminating truck tyre fun.
Post by: Filmcamera on August 26, 2017, 07:09:53 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3823-260817190635.jpeg)
Post by: billday on August 26, 2017, 08:07:38 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on September 29, 2017, 06:04:49 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3823-290917175437.jpeg)
I have one question for anyone else who has brought new discs from EBC. The discs come with bobbins because they are floating discs. Out of the box however they seem totally solid. Is that normal? Does it take a few rides for them to loosen up?
Also I received a small oil cooler that I am going to use to cool the fuel - thanks to Laitch for the link and suggestion
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3823-290917175514-729531.jpeg)
However it seems I ordered the wrong adaptors does anyone know what I need to convert the cooler so I can connect a fuel hose to it?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3823-290917175514-730862.jpeg)
I brought these adaptors - Straight T-6 Aluminum Fuel Hose fittings Adaptor Male AN6 6AN AN6 (male) to AN10 (male)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3823-290917180003.jpeg)
It looks to me like the thick end is the same as the one on the cooler so I guess I need a female AN10 to something - the AN6 that comes with the adaptors I got seem too thick to use with the fuel hose I also got which is Fuel Injection Rated Gas Petrol Hose 5/16"
Post by: Laitch on September 29, 2017, 09:20:53 PM
I have one question for anyone else who has brought new discs from EBC. The discs come with bobbins because they are floating discs. Out of the box however they seem totally solid. Is that normal?Yes. Install them and ride.
Post by: Filmcamera on September 29, 2017, 09:25:12 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 29, 2017, 10:10:10 PM
What you have now looks like a flair fitting for hard tube or a hose swivel.
Post by: Filmcamera on September 29, 2017, 11:40:51 PM
Post by: billday on September 30, 2017, 07:13:56 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on September 30, 2017, 07:16:35 AM
Post by: Filmcamera on September 30, 2017, 09:52:14 AM
Post by: Laitch on September 30, 2017, 10:32:48 AM
that seems to just leave an issue in the Motronic, is there a way to check?The relay could be a problem or the wiring between them, too. See if you can sort it out using some of this thread.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3149.msg18940.html#msg18940 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3149.msg18940.html#msg18940)
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3149.msg19595.html#msg19595 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,3149.msg19595.html#msg19595)
Post by: Scud on September 30, 2017, 01:44:02 PM
Is adding that extra plumbing to the fuel system going to affect fuel pressure? Are you putting it before or after the fuel rail / injectors?
I don't think it would affect fuel pressure, there is just more volume before the pressure regulator. However, if it did cause a problem, a pressure regulator could be installed between fuel rail and the cooler - and removed from the tank.
Post by: Filmcamera on September 30, 2017, 05:51:14 PM
As fas as I can tell there is no resistance between pins 21 and 32 on the motronic connection - the multimeter reads 1
Pin 87 of the fan relay is not grounded with the motronic unplugged and the ignition on, that is to say with the neg lead of the multimeter in plug 87 on the harness and the positive lead on a 12v out I get 0.32V reading on the multimeter.
Since the air temp sensor is brand new I am hoping that it is ok
That seems to point to a issue in the loom wiring I think. I will keep digging
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on September 30, 2017, 09:35:56 PM
Is adding that extra plumbing to the fuel system going to affect fuel pressure? Are you putting it before or after the fuel rail / injectors?
The cooler goes in the return line from the pressure regulator to the fuel tank so there is no real backpressure. I have been running a cooler for two years and 15,000 miles now with no adverse effect on performance, if anything by keeping the fuel cool the higher density makes the mixture a tiny bit richer, possibly increasing the power by an infinitesimal amount.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 01, 2017, 11:17:06 AM
Post by: Laitch on October 01, 2017, 02:52:40 PM
If you have a chance it would be great to see a photo of how and where you installed yours.Gryph probably has more images, but there are several in this K100- forum thread I think I sent you.
http://www.k100-forum.com/t9594-k75rt-fuel-cooler#113838
There are probably images on MB.C, too.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 01, 2017, 02:58:38 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 02, 2017, 01:11:27 AM
I am not sure if what I did is applicable to the K100 because I put my cooler in the space created by eliminating the front cylinder when the K100 was redesigned as a 750cc triple. Am not sure there is enough room below the radiator for a cooler like mine on a K100.
I haven't done my other bikes because I don't ride them long distance like the RT and they have sufficient airflow to minimize the discomfort from the hot tank. Early this morning I rode the RT about 180 miles in mid 30's temperatures(Fahrenheit) at speeds of 75+mph across Michigan's Yuper. I was kind of wishing the tank would have gotten a bit warmer.
Post by: Inge K. on October 02, 2017, 02:16:22 AM
I think I put a separate thread at the K100 forum, but I don't know how to find it.
http://www.k100-forum.com/t9594-k75rt-fuel-cooler (http://www.k100-forum.com/t9594-k75rt-fuel-cooler)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 02, 2017, 10:56:20 PM
Post by: Filmcamera on October 06, 2017, 03:31:08 PM
When the bike is still the front brake lever works pretty much as normal, depressing with a little bite until about half way through the travel when the bite gets progressively stringer and when I start off it does as well. However as soon as I get over about 3 mph the lever will not move at all but the brakes are not on. If I bring the bike to a stop using the rear brake the lever suddenly starts moving again. When it is moving very slowly the brakes seem to work, obviously not much braking force but since they are brand new discs and brand new pads I assume that is fairly normal.
The only issue I had of any sort installing the pads was that I got the cheap chinese pads and the top of the shoulders were too tight a fit to able to get them installed properly so I had to grind back maybe 1/2 mm to they are snug against the bolts but I can still get the main pin in.
Here is a picture of the old pads with an arrow showing where I had to grind back a little
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3823-061017152710.jpeg)
I also noticed a line around the very outer edge of one of the new discs
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3823-061017152943.jpeg)
Something seems to be stopping the ads from moving when the wheel is moving but I am not sure what I should do to fix the issue.
BTW my test ride was no more than 300 meters, I live at the top of a very steep hill and did not want to go all the way down with just the rear brake so I turned around pretty much as soon as the issue showed up.
Any suggestions would be very welcome.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 08, 2017, 11:52:35 AM
I took the pads off and ground them down a little more, until they moved freely. I then took it for another tide and had the same issue... then all of a sudden the ABS warning light came on and the brakes started working. When I got home I rechecked the gap of the front ABS sensor and found it was out of spec so I took a couple of shims out until it was correct.
Then I went for another ride and the brakes were fine - though obviously pretty soft since I need to bed in both the pads and the discs.
It seems odd that a out of spec gap should make the brake lever inoperable but there you go.
Anyway it is fixed, next week the fuel cooler!
Post by: Filmcamera on October 15, 2017, 11:16:08 AM
It was very easy to fit but I am not 100% sure about the location. I like how it looks where it is but have a couple of concerns, one it is hard against the oil/water pump and two it might be vulnerable to stones etc.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/3823-151017111519-758862.jpeg)
Post by: Laitch on October 15, 2017, 03:06:08 PM
The fuel cooler is installed. . . .Install a bucket-bred Ozian-style mudflap and relax.
I like how it looks where it is but have a couple of concerns, one it is hard against the oil/water pump and two it might be vulnerable to stones etc.
Post by: Martin on October 15, 2017, 03:11:36 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on October 15, 2017, 03:20:13 PM
It was very easy to fit but I am not 100% sure about the location. I like how it looks where it is but have a couple of concerns, one it is hard against the oil/water pump . . .On second thought, don't relax yet. You want air to flow easily through the cooler for heat dissipation. It isn't going to do that with its air outlet side hard against the engine. You'll need to move it away from the engine to improve air flow through it or you won't be getting full effect.Install a bucket-bred Ozian-style mudflap and relax.
Post by: Martin on October 15, 2017, 03:34:00 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on October 15, 2017, 03:42:38 PM
I was looking at it and wondering? I've been thinking about a fuel cooler for mine due to fuel vaporization on hot days in traffic with less than 1/2 a tank.If the cooling fuel were a priority for me, I'd follow Mighty Gryphon's concise post describing mounting a fuel cooler and its effect. My naked bike doesn't channel much heat at me but I'd probably mount one on the bike if I lived in a hot climate like the desert Southwest, Deep South or parts of Oz, or often spent time in slow-moving traffic.
Post by: Martin on October 15, 2017, 04:01:54 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on October 15, 2017, 04:08:10 PM
Laitch I thought Filmcameras climate would be more akin to mine than Gryphs climate.Gryph does extensive travel in all climates except during late fall on the questionably-maintained gravel backroads of the mountain here. :giggles He rode throughout the hellishly hot weather of the beautiful desert West with that cooler, I believe. I think his how-to might include a review its performance during that experience, if I haven't skewed the chronology.
Post by: Martin on October 15, 2017, 04:17:08 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on October 15, 2017, 04:21:13 PM
:2thumbup: I will try and hunt it down.Here, Martin. This should be worth a profiterole next time I see you, which would be the first time. Who's counting though?
http://www.k100-forum.com/t9594-k75rt-fuel-cooler (http://www.k100-forum.com/t9594-k75rt-fuel-cooler)
Post by: Martin on October 15, 2017, 04:42:34 PM
Regards a slightly depressed Martin.
Post by: Filmcamera on October 15, 2017, 08:28:33 PM
If it does not seem to be making much difference then I will mount it higher up outside the radiator grill as per the link Laith provided. It just looks so right where it is so I am hoping it will actually do the job as well!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 15, 2017, 09:01:26 PM
I put it in the return line for a couple of reasons:
First, I wanted to cool the fuel just prior to it going back into the tank because most of the heat is picked up in the rail, fuel pressure regulator, and the return line. I wanted to cool the fuel before it got between my legs, not after it had cooked them.
Second, being down stream of the fuel pressure regulator, the pressure in the return line is only high enough to flow back into the tank. In the supply to the rail the pressure is 35 psi. I go by the philosophy that it's best to minimize the amount of plumbing that is under pressure.
I used an extruded, fairly heavy wall aluminum unit for two reasons:
First, it would be able to handle any high pressure it might be exposed to, and second, since it was hanging out in the air in front of the engine, I wanted it to be stoneproof.
The unit I selected had an internal capacity of about 1 liter which gave the fuel a residence time in the cooler of over 1 minute. I figure that the longer it is being cooled, the cooler it will be when it gets back to the tank. Especially important because the shape was not optimum for air flow over it.
My installation works great on the K75 without belly pan, but may not fit a bike with a belly pan, or a K100 because I have put mine in the space freed up by the loss of one cylinder in the K75.
I like film camera's installation, but being hard against the front of the engine may actually cause the fuel to be heated rather than cooled. It may be desirable to modify the grille work in front of it to allow it to be a little further forward of the engine. Also, it might be good to have a heat shield behind the cooler to shield it from engine heat. A simple sheet of thin aluminum should be adequate. Better yet would be to install the cooler in front of the grille in the open air and let the grille afford some heat shielding.
Post by: Laitch on October 15, 2017, 09:16:35 PM
The smell of burning ear hair . . .I thought somebody was trying to dispose of oil containers in a burn barrel. The wind is coming from the west tonight. :dunno I'm glad it was just you, Gryph.No ride today we are getting over 4" plus in the next 24 hours. I envy the fortitude that enables you to bear through your Vermontian winters,
I just returned from a night ride along both sides of the river—70ºF, wind blowing at 35 knots filling the air with swirling leaves. The last weekend tourists headed home. Perfect! When I covered the bike, rain was falling fast. Tomorrow the high will be 45ºF.
:giggles
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 15, 2017, 09:23:24 PM
The last weekend tourists headed home. Perfect! When I covered the bike, rain was falling fast. Tomorrow the high will be 45ºF.
:giggles
The kind of weather I like to tour in. Light traffic and off season rates at the no tell motel.