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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Post your thoughts on various seat options here
« Last post by frankenduck on May 11, 2025, 10:11:47 AM »
I've had a few Russel seats. The first one was a used one that worked pretty well. I then had one with a backrest. That was OK but I've never been a fan of or seen the need for a backrest. My third RDL was one I had built for me that I got a good deal on when I got in on an ADVrider winter group buy. That one is perfect and though the used ones were good, the one built for me is the bomb because puts the rider to the rear about 1.5-2". (I have long legs.) Russell also uses a spring system under the foam.

I've had a couple of Sargent seats. What i found odd about those is that neither one of them looked very comfortable but they were surprisingly good for back to back long days.
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For those with no time to lose, here's where The Mighty Gryphon's unboxing and installation analysis begins.
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If you're talking about the rear master cylinder, don't bother with it, just get a $15 Chicom part on eBay and modify it per the thread here from 2017.  It's a long thread, but a good read if you have some time.

The part with my version of the adaptation starts at post #17.  I've done it on all five of the Bricks I've owned and it's worked great, better than the original Magura master cylinder.

https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=9364.0
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I've had six different style seats on the five Bricks that have passed through my garage.

The standard "plank" was okay for short trips(100 miles or less) and running around town.  It's too narrow and the foam is that typical German stuff that feels like the seat is filled with sand.

Next was a Sargent similar to a Corbin Canyon.  That seat was stylish and had a perforated vinyl seat, but despite the foam being slightly softer than the "Plank" it was awful thin and on on all day rides I was squirming on it after 300 miles.  The last day and a half of a 2000 mile four day trip was excruciating.  The only thing it was good for was running around town and short afternoon rides.

I took one of the plank seats I had on a K100RS and cut out the center of the seat and inserted a piece of memory foam about 5" x 9".  This improved the seat a lot and It was comfortable for all day rides covering up to 500 miles.  For the RS, it was perfect.

The factory Comfort seat was a great all around seat for touring.  Everything about is just right.  Not too hard, not too soft, big enough to spread the load, but not big enough to make it hard to put my feet down at stops.  That seat did a lot of miles on my K75RT and K75S.

The next step into motor decadence was the Russell Day Long.  I had two, one with a back rest and one without.   The Russell, with the the bucket shape that cradles your butt was as close to making my RT a two wheel LazEBoy as you can get. 

While the back rest was nice, it was a bit of a hassle getting on and off the bike with it.  The one without the backrest is my all time favorite for covering massive amounts of highway.  It was a dream when I did the Iron Butt 1500 miles in 24 hours.  The only downside of that seat is that it is just too big and padded to look good on a sport bike like the K100RS that I have now, but then, I don't look at the RS as a serious horizon chaser.  Like the other Russell seat, all that opulence can make flat footing at stops a bit hard for the vertically challenged but the comfort is definitely worth it.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Post your thoughts on various seat options here
« Last post by stokester on May 10, 2025, 05:54:38 PM »
My first K75S came with a Sargent and the second with a stock.  I like the Sargent and found the stock tolerable but wanting to find something else.  The stock was replaced with a Corbin Gunfighter (I think) purchased from a Motobrick member.  Although it looks uncomfortable I find it good for a long ride.


Both of these seats fit my 5'11" frame with a long reach just fine.




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FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / WTB Ignition switch to fit 1986 K75C
« Last post by jad01 on May 10, 2025, 01:58:19 PM »
The 39 year old plastic on my existing switch finally gave up upon reassembly while cleaning the switch contacts...looking for a replacement switch.
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Happy Saturday! I am working to new to me 1992 K75S. I destroyed plastic fitting that connects brake fluid reservoir to MC while removing it. There was as blockage in incoming fluid port from dried up brake fluid crud. Piston was seized as well. I honed cylinder wall with 600 grit paper and blockage is cleared as well, ordered rebuild kit, but I am unable to find replacement inlet fitting (or whatever the part is called online). Do I need to buy entire master cylinder? Thank you!
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Hi

Im thinking it might be a faulty ignition control unit.

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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Fuel system test setup
« Last post by gard on May 09, 2025, 07:44:44 PM »
Nice, I have always thought about that but have never tried it. Was there some reason to not use the bikes fuel pump?
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Plan to replace the Hella/DIN/Powerlet with one of these "cigarette lighter" sockets. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y8D2JR2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Since it's IP66 rated, I'm hoping that the interior blue LED light will not "bleed out" from the covered cap when not in use, so it's not a distraction at night. Will try to post install photos.
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