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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Clutch free play randomly increased
« Last post by Lbxpdx on Today at 06:26:28 PM »
Well, hopefully it’s fine.  The cable snapped on me in my garage and I headed west to grab a cable from the dealership. 
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Clutch free play randomly increased
« Last post by frankenduck on Today at 05:04:09 PM »
When you are replacing the cable it's a good idea to make sure that you don't let the clutch arm fall back. If it does then it is not uncommon for the $33 clutch boot on the transmission to tear and fail.

You can either:

1) Use zip-ties


2) Pull in the clutch and put a piece of wood between the clutch arm and exhaust.
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FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Re: FS:K75s and K75c Misc. Parts
« Last post by DrBombay on Today at 04:21:30 PM »
Interested in the side bags and lower cowl.  As you note shipping will sting, but let's figure out how much.  I'm in 03455

Thnx
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Clutch free play randomly increased
« Last post by Lbxpdx on Today at 02:36:42 PM »
I just checked my records and the cable was OEM and is 6k/10 years old. 
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Clutch free play randomly increased
« Last post by Scott_ on Today at 02:28:22 PM »
Before you replace it(place your order) check for lever free play in the pivot bushing as well as free play(slop) in the cable barrel.
If the hole is out of round too much it will bind the brass barrel and not allow it to rotate, thus flexing the cable to the point of breaking strands.
I personally am placing an order this week with Max for a new cable for mine.(replacing my spare that I just installed last week.)
Careful lubrication of the brass barrel and the lever pivot pin are your friend..
On my '95 I discovered the lever pivot hole(and worn pin) and the barrel hole were allowing too much movement of the lever and binding of the cable barrel, so I replaced lever off my '97 parts bike.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Clutch free play randomly increased
« Last post by Lbxpdx on Today at 01:29:09 PM »
Check your cable at the lever end, it could be starting to break.... DAMHIK.

Thanks.  That is the problem. Glad I made it to work and back home
Looks like I was down to two wires.

Any recommendations on where to buy or brand?  Local BMW shop wants $82!!  Should I order two from EuroMotorElectrics or go with OEM?  Max BMW wants $74.




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Check your cable at the lever end, it could be starting to break.... DAMHIK.

+1  No need to explain how I know this.
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That's funny that they come up with some fancy term when they could have just used a simple term like threadlocked.

I've redone several side stands and never bothered with re-microencapsulating them. As long as it's torqued properly I doubt that bolt would back out. It's never happened to me.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Dies when Hot
« Last post by frankenduck on Today at 12:47:58 PM »
Not necessarily heat or time related but another potential cause of SKDS (Sudden K Death Syndrome) is a dirty ignition switch.

Clean Ignition Switch

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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Dies when Hot
« Last post by MarcoK75c on Today at 12:29:06 PM »
One more test this morning: Hall Effect sensor cover off, warmed engine and then 15min hair dryer heat. Bike runs just fine…..

Tomorrow when the rain stops, i will road test it again. I will pack lunch, water, multi meter and a spray bottle to cool electrical components down… just in case….
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