Has battery power but no start.

[Texer]

Hi, I’m actually stuck in my work parking lot right now with my 1987K 100 RS. When I came out to start it the dash lights lit up and it wouldn’t start. With the Killswitch on there are no lights no blinkers. I can hear the pump start in the tank. I have checked all the fuses they are good. The clock is showing the time ticking away and I checked the battery with my multimeterAnd it reads 12.89 V.Any ideas what I should look at?Thanks in advance.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Does the starter spin the engine and there is no ignition, or does the starter not spin?

[Texer]

No action or sound at starter. Completely quite except for fuel pump. And thanks for the quick reply-

[The Mighty Gryphon]

What do the lights do when you push the start button?

[Texer]

I don’t remember the dash lights doing anything different when I push the start button. And it is just the dash lights that light up. I was fortunate that I work near or close to garage so now I just wheeled her down and it’s all locked up so I don’t have to worry about it and I can come back and look at it at a better time. Thanks again I am I’m curious about but it could be, I’m thinking it might be a short period

[Laitch]

No action or sound at starter. Completely quite except for fuel pump. And thanks for the quick reply-

The fuel pump on an '87 2V should only run if the starter is turning over the engine. I don't know what's going on there but I suggest you put it in third or a higher gear, roll it backwards then pop the clutch. Do that a few times then try starting it.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

It sounds like your ignition switch is acting up with dirty contacts.  Many of us have had problems with these 30+ year old switches.

You might want to clean the contacts:

http://www.kforum-tech.com/electrical/Cleaning_ignition_switch/Cleaning_switch.htm

[Texer]

Thank you gentlemen- As I mentioned, I am to rtunate and I was able put it in my workplace garage indefinitely which is actually locked up for Covid right now anyway (with on site security) So it’s essentially on ice but I can get to it when I need to so I will try that pop the clutch technique first and then plan to look at the wiring and switch also.  Now that I’m able to come to contemplate it, I do remember it not wanting to start periodically and then starting after I tried again and that is what made me think it might be a battery going bad. So the idea of contacts in the switch does sound like a good one for sure.

[Laitch]

I am to rtunate and I was able put it in my workplace garage indefinitely . . .

And here I thought you were out in a fecking parking lot, trapped in the elements and suffering. This is the last fecking disappointment of my day. I'm turning in. 

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Laitch, it's truly a hard life my friend.

As far as Texer, if the switch hasn't been serviced, it is a very good thing to do, even in the unlikely chance it isn't the actual cause of the problem.

[Texer]

Thanks gents. All info was appreciated.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Can you clean the switch this weekend?  THat would be a good starting point, no pun intended.

[Texer]

Thanks for the switch cleaning process doc Gryphon, that will be handy. I’ll wait till I am back on site and stay late to work on the switch.

[volador]

With the Killswitch on there are no lights no blinkers. I can hear the pump start in the tank. I have checked all the fuses they are good. The clock is showing the time ticking away and I checked the battery with my multimeterAnd it reads 12.89 V.Any ideas what I should look at?Thanks in advance.

1-  Double check top most Fuse#1

2- Ignition full on- Does the horn work?

3- Pull the clutch lever in before starting. Any change?

Two interlocks interact: It should start if its in neutral; or if the clutch lever is pulled if in gear. The gear position indicator switch at the transmission end and clutch switch up by the clutch lever.

So, if in gear pulling the clutch lever should allow it to crank. If not, the clutch switch is suspect.

If the neutral light fails to come on the GPI switch seems faulty. If both get bad it won't start.

4. No key required. Take voltmeter +POS lead to the battery POS terminal

Voltmeter -NEG lead to Starter terminal post should read battery voltage. No reading - Starter issue open ground

5. The following will require Ignition Key but Do Not Push The Starter Button

Take a decent jumper wire connect to the Starter terminal post the other end to ground

Turn Ignition Switch On: the headlight and instrument cluster should work - Starter issue open ground- remove jumper

6. If when doing #5 the headlight and instrument cluster did not work- possible Load Shed Relay issue

Switch Load Shed Relay with the Horn relay

Hold Clutch lever in until you've solved the problem

funny how the Griffoon and Professor carry on a conversation in thread

[Texer]

Thanks Volador-

Well, Laitch wins this round. I followed the directions below and functions returned. I tested it a few times for restart and it started successfully on each.  I’ll bring in my gear tomorrow and ride at home and then put it on the lift. I’ve been meaning to go through it deeper now that I’ve gotten closer to having at where I want it so I’ll take the time to go through and clean things and follow the directions above for the starter switch etc. My question is, what did I do to the bike with your directions? Somehow get the starter to rotate?

“Re: Has battery power but no start.
« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2020, 09:00:41 PM »
Quote
Quote from: Texer on May 15, 2020, 08:38:02 PM
No action or sound at starter. Completely quite except for fuel pump. And thanks for the quick reply-
The fuel pump on an '87 2V should only run if the starter is turning over the engine. I don't know what's going on there but I suggest you put it in third or a higher gear, roll it backwards then pop the clutch. Do that a few times then try starting it.”

[Laitch]

I followed the directions below and functions returned.

What you should do first is clean the starter. A dirty starter can cause multiple problems because it is a ground source. Backspinning removed some of the crud and allowed contact. If you don't clean it, the problems will return.

Read and follow this.

[Texer]

Will do; and thanks for the help!

[Texer]

So it took about two months, but I finally got around to it yesterday. Thanks for that link it was great. I did the disassembly and The shakedown run proved successful I think. Probably about 12 starts since the clean with no issues.
So thanks again everybody for all the information the K is back on the road.

Just a note about my experience with the starter cleanup.

- Being somewhat ham fisted sometimes, when I disassembled the unit the ball bearing disappeared immediately somewhere in my garage. Even after A sweep up I couldn’t find it. I did remember that I have some bicycle headset bearings in my bicycle stash, so I looked into it and found one that seem to fit perfectly. It measured 4mm dia.

Reassembly went well and it seems to be working fine. Anybody know what the appropriate ball bearing size is for that? In case I need to replace it with a more proper size.