1
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: K1100 Fuel gauge wiring
« Last post by frankenduck on December 08, 2024, 11:30:00 AM »Gray/blue is 12V+ for the backlight.
Community of BMW K75 K100 K1 K1100 Indestructible Flying Brick Riders
News:
Recent Posts
2
The Motobrick Workshop / K1100 Fuel gauge wiring
« Last post by Lucas1983 on December 08, 2024, 11:06:45 AM »Hello everyone,
I am almost done with my custom wiring for my 1993 k1100LT using motogadget m unit. I would like re-use existing fuel gauge to monitor my fuel level.
I am not sure what to do with gray/ blue wire. Yellow goes to fuel gauge transmitter, brown is ground, green/black is 12v power? and do I need gray/ blue?
Clymer is missing fuel gauge for 1993 for some reason. However, in 1994-and on the the gray/ blue goes to instrument light. Plan is to use white wire from the fuel transmiter for the low fuel light, so the question remains what to do with the gray/ blue. Do I need another light? Thanks.
I am almost done with my custom wiring for my 1993 k1100LT using motogadget m unit. I would like re-use existing fuel gauge to monitor my fuel level.
I am not sure what to do with gray/ blue wire. Yellow goes to fuel gauge transmitter, brown is ground, green/black is 12v power? and do I need gray/ blue?
Clymer is missing fuel gauge for 1993 for some reason. However, in 1994-and on the the gray/ blue goes to instrument light. Plan is to use white wire from the fuel transmiter for the low fuel light, so the question remains what to do with the gray/ blue. Do I need another light? Thanks.
3
FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Re: WTB K1100 12 Rivet Output Shaft
« Last post by daveson on December 08, 2024, 05:42:29 AM »Goodo replacing the breather hose could fix the lack of power problem, it might even fix the knock problem. Maybe test the coils before buying new. I'm thinking coils is something you want to buy as a pair, you want them to be the same, I'd say.
4
FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Re: WTB K1100 12 Rivet Output Shaft
« Last post by PeterA on December 08, 2024, 05:10:16 AM »Thanks again Daveson,
Working on the lack of power and breaking down issue I posted about on another post. Curiously it didnt break down today after a 100km ride but it was not a hot day. I've got some parts on order for a service and I've found a coil I can swap in. We've noticed the crank case breather pipe is cracked so that needs replacing and will do a clean of earth points and inspection with tank off. Looks like crank case cover gasket needs replacing as its seeping so some general maintenance jobs as well.
Will report back as we progress through diagnosis.
Regards
Peter
Working on the lack of power and breaking down issue I posted about on another post. Curiously it didnt break down today after a 100km ride but it was not a hot day. I've got some parts on order for a service and I've found a coil I can swap in. We've noticed the crank case breather pipe is cracked so that needs replacing and will do a clean of earth points and inspection with tank off. Looks like crank case cover gasket needs replacing as its seeping so some general maintenance jobs as well.
Will report back as we progress through diagnosis.
Regards
Peter
5
Project Classic Motobricks / Re: Valve adjustment
« Last post by daveson on December 07, 2024, 09:18:25 PM »Hey Laitch,
Do you remember the entertaining case of bgcameron? I do.
I didn't include it in the above posts because it wasn't solved, but it was partially solved by torquing the clutch nut.
Almost identical to MLR's case. A K75 with a clatter from 3500 to 4000 rpm when going slightly uphill. He looked under the cam cover and timing chain cover, but didn't look at the output shaft.
I'll guess if he ever does go into the engine, like MLR did, and replaces the shim, bearings, and whatnot, like MLR did, that would fix the problem, like MLR did.
I'll guess bgcameron's brick has a worn bearing, causing output shaft endfloat. A worn shim would allow a rattle with the backlash gear, which I think would be noisy at lower revs than 3500.
Another pattern that I think has emerged with these K75 output shaft clatters, why do they always seem to be late models? Dunno. Me thinks, I don't like shims there, if there's any wear, shims can't take up any slack, springs can. Maybe replacing the spring with a shim, causes more problems than it solves. The K100 has an extra diaphragm spring tucked away out of sight to help take up some slack. The K75 only has the circlip. How much slack can the circlip take up? Almost nix. Does anyone know which year the K75 had shims installed from new?
I won't add my new guess to his thread, as it's too old.
https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=14231.msg127353#msg127353
Do you remember the entertaining case of bgcameron? I do.
I didn't include it in the above posts because it wasn't solved, but it was partially solved by torquing the clutch nut.
Almost identical to MLR's case. A K75 with a clatter from 3500 to 4000 rpm when going slightly uphill. He looked under the cam cover and timing chain cover, but didn't look at the output shaft.
I'll guess if he ever does go into the engine, like MLR did, and replaces the shim, bearings, and whatnot, like MLR did, that would fix the problem, like MLR did.
I'll guess bgcameron's brick has a worn bearing, causing output shaft endfloat. A worn shim would allow a rattle with the backlash gear, which I think would be noisy at lower revs than 3500.
Another pattern that I think has emerged with these K75 output shaft clatters, why do they always seem to be late models? Dunno. Me thinks, I don't like shims there, if there's any wear, shims can't take up any slack, springs can. Maybe replacing the spring with a shim, causes more problems than it solves. The K100 has an extra diaphragm spring tucked away out of sight to help take up some slack. The K75 only has the circlip. How much slack can the circlip take up? Almost nix. Does anyone know which year the K75 had shims installed from new?
I won't add my new guess to his thread, as it's too old.
https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=14231.msg127353#msg127353
6
FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Re: WTB K1100 12 Rivet Output Shaft
« Last post by daveson on December 07, 2024, 07:55:40 PM »Since this brick is new to you, you might be planning to remove the gearbox to lube the splines. If so, while you're there, check that the clutch parts have been installed properly with the balance marks. There has been at least one case here where it was unbalanced, causing a knock.
If you do remove the clutch, or the rear main seal is leaking, this is also an ideal opportunity to check the output shaft circlip. It's unlikely that this would be the cause of the knock, but it might be. I mention this because if you're there anyway, it costs nothing to check. The circlip also applies spring pressure (if it's the castellated type) it could be weakened. It might be installed the wrong way around, the concave side should be facing towards the bearing. It might not be fully installed in its groove. All these possibilities could result in excessive endfloat and a knock. Again, unlikely, but it's a part of the output shaft that is easy to get to, and I think it's less than $10, so cheap and easy to get to.
If you do remove the clutch, or the rear main seal is leaking, this is also an ideal opportunity to check the output shaft circlip. It's unlikely that this would be the cause of the knock, but it might be. I mention this because if you're there anyway, it costs nothing to check. The circlip also applies spring pressure (if it's the castellated type) it could be weakened. It might be installed the wrong way around, the concave side should be facing towards the bearing. It might not be fully installed in its groove. All these possibilities could result in excessive endfloat and a knock. Again, unlikely, but it's a part of the output shaft that is easy to get to, and I think it's less than $10, so cheap and easy to get to.
7
Best of Motobrick.COM / Re: Legend Lives On From The Chippewa On Down Of The Big Lake They Call
« Last post by PitchlerBrick on December 06, 2024, 04:16:26 PM »Wow, what an experience. My grandmother's second husband was Captain of Pittsburg Steamship Company's Laker J.P. Morgan Jr. He was in no way chatty. When as a kid I asked him about the Edmund Fitzgerald, he was very saddened and also had some opinions. All those men are resting together now so I will leave it be.
8
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Top comfortable speed on your K75,
« Last post by PitchlerBrick on December 06, 2024, 02:41:40 PM »The frame mounted Pitchler fairing is very stable and creates a nice cocoon. Toll roads near where I live have posted 80mph speed limits, and as you drive south towards San Antonio, the posted limit raises to 85. If you're not driving like a jerk the police pretty much leave you alone.
All that to say I've ridden 85mph legally, maybe a bit over (Officer quote after pulling over a lady I work with, "Nine you're fine, 10 you're mine") and on one trip did that for an hour. The bike was super stable, zero drama, big smiles. Felt like I was in Chermany. That said, I knew the bike was tight, and could tell you my exact tire pressure, oil levels, was fully safety-geared up as always, etc.
All that to say I've ridden 85mph legally, maybe a bit over (Officer quote after pulling over a lady I work with, "Nine you're fine, 10 you're mine") and on one trip did that for an hour. The bike was super stable, zero drama, big smiles. Felt like I was in Chermany. That said, I knew the bike was tight, and could tell you my exact tire pressure, oil levels, was fully safety-geared up as always, etc.
9
The Motobrick Workshop / What Foam Grips Do You Like
« Last post by PitchlerBrick on December 06, 2024, 02:21:07 PM »Whose hand grips do you like? My throttle-side grip is splitting down the long side; time to replace! Thank you.
10
Project Classic Motobricks / Re: Valve adjustment
« Last post by daveson on December 06, 2024, 11:48:03 AM »A few days ago my son showed me how to add a link to a post. I said wow that was easy. So it's copy and paste, who'd of thunk.
I googled Motobrick 3700 and Motobrick 1800, came up with a lot of matches.
Posting a photo only takes me a few seconds, but the first photo I posted on Motobrick took me three hours. Strangely, that photo popped up on my previous post and all my posts on that thread, and even posts by other posters. Dunno how I done it, wouldn't be able to do it again if I tried.
https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=11301.msg98578#msg98578
Soggz showed me a quicker way to post a photo, thanks Soggz.
Anyways, a small number of cases, yes, but I think there's a pattern that a rattle from the output shaft that suddenly disappears around 2000 points to the auxiliary shaft, around 4000 points to the output shaft. There's more examples, but don't want to thread jack too much. It's odd that a rattle from the output shaft disappears with the alternator removed, but if it does turn out to be a pattern, we can call it a symptom without knowing the reason. Maybe something to do with less drive or turning direction, dunno.
Anyways, I don't think we have to think about it too much, cause there's a BMW service bulletin about the problem. It says the minimum action to be taken is to install a new shim, and check the other items for wear. I guess the bearing would deserve the closest look. Since it takes so long to get to the output shaft, it would make sense to replace both bearings, and other wear items even if they look good. Let's say it's done 100, 000 km, you could say I'm not even going to measure them, I'll just replace with new.
I googled Motobrick 3700 and Motobrick 1800, came up with a lot of matches.
Posting a photo only takes me a few seconds, but the first photo I posted on Motobrick took me three hours. Strangely, that photo popped up on my previous post and all my posts on that thread, and even posts by other posters. Dunno how I done it, wouldn't be able to do it again if I tried.
https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=11301.msg98578#msg98578
Soggz showed me a quicker way to post a photo, thanks Soggz.
Anyways, a small number of cases, yes, but I think there's a pattern that a rattle from the output shaft that suddenly disappears around 2000 points to the auxiliary shaft, around 4000 points to the output shaft. There's more examples, but don't want to thread jack too much. It's odd that a rattle from the output shaft disappears with the alternator removed, but if it does turn out to be a pattern, we can call it a symptom without knowing the reason. Maybe something to do with less drive or turning direction, dunno.
Anyways, I don't think we have to think about it too much, cause there's a BMW service bulletin about the problem. It says the minimum action to be taken is to install a new shim, and check the other items for wear. I guess the bearing would deserve the closest look. Since it takes so long to get to the output shaft, it would make sense to replace both bearings, and other wear items even if they look good. Let's say it's done 100, 000 km, you could say I'm not even going to measure them, I'll just replace with new.