1993 K1100RS Fork Lock Not working/frozen

[CTDOM!]

SO I have had the bike now for a few years and never thought that the bike had a fork lock.  Mainly because the key won't turn in that direction no matter how I position the bars..  Where is the part that locks the handlebars?  I am going to try to spray some penetrant oil to see if I can loosen it up and get it working again.

BTW Took the K for a trip last weekend around the NY Finger Lakes and it performed perfectly. My buddies complained it smelled like burning oil but hey, it has 85K on the clock what do you want?  Now to change the FD's bearing.

THANKS!
DOM!

[Scott_]

The steering lock is part of the ignition switch assy that is mounted to the upper triple-tree. Definitely not unheard of for that mechanism to be gummed up if it's not used regularly. There is a pin that extends into a notch/hole in the steering head-stock.
The lock should engage with the bars just shy of the full right position.
Tri-flow is a good penetrating fluid that is friendly to the tumbler assy if you are going to try and spray from the top down.
You have a couple of options to spray directly in/at the mechanism:
1-drill out the security screws and remove the key switch assy. (will require new screws on assembly)
2-dis-assemble the fork triple-tree as if going to change/inspect the steering head bearings, which will require care on assembly to get bearing pre-load adjusted.(also a good time to clean, inspect and lubricate the bearings--check for notchi-ness in the bar movement)

You could try and spay from the side or underneath, but not sure how effective that would be though.

[Martin]

They are a pain to operate and access, and there have been cases of them failing in the locked position. Failing in the locked position will cause to  ride in ever diminishing circles. This will end up with you riding up your own exhaust pipe and disappearing.
Regards Martin.

[Laitch]

. . . will cause to  ride in ever diminishing circles. This will end up with you riding up your own exhaust pipe and disappearing.

That happened to a guy I know. I asked him what it was like. He said it was exhausting.

[Martin]

 

[lmiklosy]

They are a pain to operate and access, and there have been cases of them failing in the locked position. Failing in the locked position will cause to  ride in ever diminishing circles. This will end up with you riding up your own exhaust pipe and disappearing.
Regards Martin.

First-off forgiveness for replying to old post.     

I acquired a 1995 R1100GS with 108k miles. The steering lock on this bike has three positions OFF, ON, PARK at 7-o'clock 10-o'clock and 2-o'clock.  When testing the steering lock I turned the bars left and locked them in the OFF position, then turned the key to the ON position but the steering lock remained locked- an odd state for the mechanism to be in. In this state the ignition is active but the steering lock remains locked, any amount of WD-40, jiggling the key and wiggling handlebars will not allow the key to turn. Strange huh?  I wasn't aware the locking mechanism could enter such a state.  The ligic-heads out there should love this one!     

To remove the steering lock I removed the two 6-mm allen screws, the lock remains in place because of a tight fit between the steering head and crown. Next step to remove the steering lock: remove the crown or hammer and punch the steering lock?  Comments?       Thanks all.    Happi Holidaze

[Laitch]

First-off forgiveness for replying to old post.

I forgive you.
Have you removed the key switch assembly as Scott_ described in Reply #1, Option #1? WD-40 is not an effective penetrating oil, if that's your intention with it. Liquid Wrench is excellent. My choice would be to follow his recommendation of Tri-Flow or another Teflon-based compound; Liquid Wrench makes one of those, too.

[lmiklosy]

Thanks Laitch,Any lube in a rattle-can that smells like fish-oil I call WD-40, actually the can says "Liquid Wrench" so good there. The key assembly is held together with two fasteners, I thought they were Allen screws but they must be rivets. Will try remove the whole assembly today and drill out the rivets.   

What I'm after is how common is this lock mechanism failure on oilheads/bricks? How can the key be in the ON position and the steering remain locked?   

[frankenduck]

They're not rivets. They're M8x31 "security bolts" with one-way heads. Drilling the heads off with a 5/16 or M8 drill bit is how to remove them. An Easy-out would probably also work.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0409-USA-11-1994-259E-BMW-R_1100_GS_94_0404,0409_&diagId=51_0165



I replace them with M8x30 socket cap bolts.

[Laitch]

The key assembly is held together with two fasteners, I thought they were Allen screws but they must be rivets. Will try remove the whole assembly today and drill out the rivets.

1-drill out the security screws and remove the key switch assy. (will require new screws on assembly)

They're not rivets. They're M8x31 "security bolts" with one-way heads. Drilling the heads off with a 5/16 or M8 drill bit is how to remove them.

Frankenduck has now elaborated Scott's Option #1 in Reply #1.

[lmiklosy]

On this GS the steering lock/ignition combo is attached by two stainless M8 bolts easily removed. I removed the triple clamp and separated the steering lock and cable from the bike. There is a small set screw holding the rotary electric switch to the mechanical lock, removed the set screw and separated lock from the switch. Removing the switch reveals the inside of the mechanical lock and appears normal, full of grease and no corrosion.

The mechanical lock remains frozen in the ON position with the steering locking pin protruding, no amount of jiggling the key or turning it will retract the locking pin. Holding the lock in one hand and with the other trying all sorts of contortions will not budge this lock. Anybody experience this seized lock before?  My best guess is something in the key tumbler broke-off and jammed the lock.

[Laitch]

That's not too attractive. If it were mine, I'd soak that puppy in solvent overnight, drain it and blow it out with compressed air, see if it loosened, then repeat and test until despair kicked in.

[lmiklosy]

Thanks Laitch,  will clean out with solvent, maybe then some loose pieces will fall out

This bike was deliverd as a rolling chassis and tupperware filling two boxes, I was told there are electrical Gremlins mechanics couldn't resolve.  So far fixed every one of them, spun over the motor today and all accessories work. Should have a running bike by Christmas!      Thanks for the comments here.