Recent Posts

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Project Classic Motobricks / Re:Restoration—1989 K100LT
« Last post by skucera on February 18, 2025, 11:42:19 PM »
Thanks for that link, Frankenduck. It looks really handy.

Scott
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Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: Introduction
« Last post by Dark Angel on February 18, 2025, 10:00:34 PM »
Extra! Extra! Read all about it!  Local idiot home mechanic learns something new!


Turns out there is in fact a return port in front (closer to the brake line connection) of the main port, but it's tiny and very easy to miss.  It's also blocked.  I've been soaking it in brake cleaner and periodically blowing it out with compressed air but it's just not clearing.  That leads me to suspect it's a corrosion issue in which case I won't be able to fix it.  How could it be corroded?  I'm going to go with lack of proper maintenance.  I've blown quite a lot of brown residue out of that section but since I can't get the black plastic spigot off (without breaking it anyway) I can't get at the port to rod it out.

Please, change your brake fluid regularly.  I've yet to see a BMW of any age the didn't develop problems quite quickly if this simple thing was ignored.
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The Motobrick Workshop / Re: Coolant Reservoir Replacement
« Last post by sooprvylyn on February 18, 2025, 06:50:01 PM »
I do believe there was a shop in the usa selling these for honda's. Just google for clear motorcycle coolant reservoir.
IT DOES LOOK AWESOME THO.  but do keep in mind acids from the coolant -the stuff that prevents build up, corrosion and rust formation etc will affect the pvc or plexiglass.
so it might be advicable to create a mixture of demineralized water to keep it clear.
Also its an overflow so it has to stay in shape when warm.

Definitely acids can effect the acrylic, but they need to be fairly strong to have much effect.  Most coolant is slightly akaline, but can change from contamination so def something to keep en eye out for.  If you are doing this mod, you are probably already changing fluids pretty regularly since it's cake for wrenchers.

There is no way this thick acrylic will heat up enough to warp or anything from the normal operation.  Its like 5mm thick.  The coolant entering the reservoir is certainly hot, but it doesnt circulate in the cooling system once its in the overflow. If there is already some coolant in there, as there should be, it will cool any hot fluid coming from the system instantly. But even if there isnt, it still wont stay hot long enough to cause an issue.  Using the metal cap version will also act as a heat sink, so I def recommend them over plastic end caps(may help the acrylic last longer).  Heat isnt a real concern for this unless you mount it in a place where it will catch excessive heat(more than the radiator radiates).

I do expect the acrylic will yellow and cloud over time if enough UV light gets to it.  NBD, easy and cheap to replace.
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Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: Hello From Grand Rapids, MI
« Last post by GREGT on February 18, 2025, 12:25:48 PM »
Going to be a while before pics.  The bike's is in my warehouse and needs reassembly and the I have to figure out how to even send pics on this site.  Read the instructions kinda looks like instructions from Mission Impossible, may need help from my Son for that.  Will take the bike and trailer outside for pics, but it's not exactly nice weather here.
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Project Classic Motobricks / Re:Restoration—1989 K100LT
« Last post by frankenduck on February 18, 2025, 11:48:33 AM »
Locks that don't work with the ignition key can be rekeyed to all work with it.

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/rekey/rekey.htm
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Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: Introduction
« Last post by Laitch on February 18, 2025, 11:21:36 AM »
This is both an informative and cautionary post, Dark Angel. Please keep us updated.
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Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: Hello From Grand Rapids, MI
« Last post by Laitch on February 18, 2025, 10:04:52 AM »
Early K75 standards had a rear drum. That may have just been in Europe though. Here's a BMW pic of an early K75 standard with a rear drum:


Where's the pic?
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Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: Hello From Grand Rapids, MI
« Last post by GREGT on February 18, 2025, 09:23:49 AM »
Yeah, Thank you for the very good advice.  I've been there looking around on the floor too!  I'm hoping to have everything done before the end of April so I still have some time.  Hopefully, the Alternator guy gets back with me so I can get that swapped out.  In the mean time, I will pull the belly pan and remove and clean the oil pan out, check the pick up screen, and reassemble that.  Get the switch cleaned for the ignition.  I ordered a trailer hitch and that should arrive by the end of the Month.  Would like to upgrade the headlamp and add some fog lights, gators for the forks, and then figure out the trailer lighting.

The trailer I bought is all LED so I will need to tie all of that in with the bike.  Hopefully someone makes an adaptor to drive the LED lights.  I also plan to have a Lithium Battery in the trailer so I will probably use some type of Anderson plug for that.  The good news for me is I like doing research and fun projects like this!
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Welcome To Motobrick.Com / Re: Hello From Grand Rapids, MI
« Last post by The Mighty Gryphon on February 18, 2025, 08:09:37 AM »
Welcome!  I had a K75RT that I rode through 42 of the 48 continental states putting on 45,000 miles.  The K75 is a fantastic touring bike.

Clean the ignition switch.  The design is not all that good and is sensitive to dirt and oxidation.  I have had issues with two of them.  Your symptoms sound similar to what I have experienced.  Do the disassembly and service with the switch in a box or pan.  There are some very small parts that are very easy to lose making the switch useless.  I had to learn the hard way, spending several hours on the garage floor on my hands and knees with a flashlight.
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