DIY LED flasher relay

[rbm]

It's not uncommon for these fuse types to go bad internally with no outward signs, just as you experienced.  It's always a good idea to continuity check the fuse as part of your diagnosis.

[Party Cat]

Thanks mate!

Just added backups and backups to my under seat box ;)

[Motorhobo]

Another +1 for cutting the trace as described above. I'm running a sidecar on a K75 and I replaced the original incandescent cans on the hack with beehive LEDs. That means I had to remove the bulbs from the right  hand front and rear signals on the bike because they're replaced by the sidecar lights. Hyperflashing ensued.  I tried using a load resistor but the thing got so freaking hot it scared me and I couldn't find a place to mount it because it's clunky and heavy besides being hot.

Getting the relay box open is a challenge as mentioned above. You have to cut though the rubber insulation on the bottom end and gently pry it open at the narrow ends which is where it clamps in. Afterwards I sealed it back up with RTV. Now I can think about replacing all the signals with LED bulbs -- awesome mod!

[ChristSFP]

Would this also work on a K1100RS?

[rbm]

Yes, it should.

[ChristSFP]

Thanks for the quick reply!

Sorry, but just be clear:

IF I cut the cord according to the thread info, I would not need to use resistors when installing LED turn signals? (Rear turn signals will have integrated break light also, but I guess that won't be effected by this operation either?)

[rbm]

Yes, that is correct.  I would suggest slicing through the copper trace on the printed circuit board rather than snipping off the pin from the IC.  The slice can be reversed and put back to stock.  There should be no need for balast resistors to get the flashers working properly after doing this mod.

[ChristSFP]

Thank you for your reply =) Saved me $30 on the build

[ChristSFP]

Ok, so the mod solved my turn signals, however I can't seem to get the break light to work. Rear running light works..

So the rear turn signals has integrated break and turn signals and according to the diagram.. it should work =/

And tips?

[rbm]

Your brake light problem is related to the Bulb Monitoring Unit (BMU).  The BMU needs to measure the current drawn by a standard incandescent lamp to work properly.  Your LED brake light is simulating a failed brake light bulb.  You'll need to add a ballast resistor in parallel to cause that needed current draw in the circuit and allow the BMU to work.  Alternatively, you can search this site to find out how to bypass the BMU.

[K75RT Keith]

Cut the connection to the leg beside the red dot:

Inge K,  is there enough space on the back side of the board to cut through the trace?

[rbm]

Inge's suggestion is to cut through the IC leg.  My suggestion is to cut through the trace on the back.  Yes, there is sufficient room.  If you examine with a magnifying glass, you'll see a small short trace leading to a large ground pad.  That's what you cut.

[K75RT Keith]

Any recommendations for what use to cut the trace?

[rbm]

A utility knife with a sharp blade or an Xacto knife with a sharp blade.  You just have to sever the continuity on the trace and it's very thin copper.

[Inge K.]

Inge's suggestion is to cut through the IC leg.

Thank you for the correction..............I've always thought that cutting the connection to the leg was
different from cutting through the leg.

[rbm]

Actually you have understood the subtle English language nuance correctly Inge.  Cutting the connection to the IC can be accomplished either by cutting through the leg of the IC on the top side of the card or cutting through the trace on the bottom side of the card.  They both end up with the same result.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I have found through considerable personal experience on a wide range of electronic equipment that cutting the trace is more easily reversible than cutting a component lead.  I learned this by frequently cutting the wrong thing the first time nearly every time.

[Nantucket_Red]

I cut the trace and only get a solid light, did I screw up?
87 k100rt

[Nantucket_Red]

I'm assuming it's because I didn't have my rear led lights wired. If when I wire them up and it doesn't solve the issue I shall assume I fudged up

[Laitch]

I cut the trace and only get a solid light, did I screw up?

Post a picture of the trace you cut, Red. This is the time a photo would really clarify what you've done.

I'm assuming it's because I didn't have my rear led lights wired. If when I wire them up and it doesn't solve the issue I shall assume I fudged up

My suggestion is not to get ahead of yourself but to do one task at at time.

[Nantucket_Red]

Soon as I can get back into the garage I shall. I was very careful when locating and slicing the tracer. I'm 99.9% sure it was the right one. But I will post a photo ASAP

[Elipten]

Yes but that 0.1% often bites hard!


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[Nantucket_Red]

So it took a week to be able to get back into the shed, as stated I cut the lead on the back of the board and now all I get is a solid light, I can switch back and forth but no blinking. Here is where I cut. I know it's hard to see but I cut what I believed to be the right lead from the pictures shown. I probably screwed up and missed something while reading the posts above. If you have any ideas what to do to fix this, lemme know.

[Laitch]

Here is where I cut. I know it's hard to see but I cut what I believed to be the right lead from the pictures shown.

I can't even be certain that's the same relay from that photo, Red. Can you shoot another with a pencil point indicating where you cut?

[Nantucket_Red]

Sorry about that, the cut was made right at the highest point of the line is. Had to do this on my phone because my computer isny working currently. I apologize.