94' k75 24 pin gauge cluster problem

[Atabeach]

OH boy! My automatic directional cancel wasn't working. In an attempt to fix this I removed the 24 pin connector on the back of the instrument gauge. Cleaned all the contacts (like a good boy) Now the tach and speedo aren't working. I removed and cleaned several times (no contact grease yet). Question: BEFORE opening instrument cluster any hints on how to assure good contact at pins? Also what kind of voltage (if any) should I be getting at tach, speedo pins? Good Grief !!!

[frankenduck]

When putting the connector back on you need to push, turn the screw a little, push, turn the screw a little, ... until the connector gets fully seated. 

DO NOT attempt to he-man tighten the connector's screw though. Just get it snug.

[Atabeach]

From the get go I was very careful with this connector knowing its importance. I have access to the pins in the rear and have attempted to "snug them in"  with a small screwdriver. I am getting steady 6.4 volts at Tach pin

[rbm]

You can't really use a multimeter to read a voltage at the speedo pin (Pin 21 Blue/Green) or the tach pin (Pin 16 Black/Blue) because they are dynamic signals.  You'll need to use an oscilloscope.  You might be able to validate the operation of the rear wheel sensor by measuring the voltage at Pin 22 (Yellow) and spinning the back wheel.  It will be a voltage that varies about +/- 2Volts.

Is everything else on the cluster working, like indicator lights and screen illumination?

[Atabeach]

Everything is working. When I put the connector back on the first few times, the tach was working...till I put it on the road !!! I have tried "tightening" the female pins a little too. BTW the bike has 7000 miles, garaged from new.   Tach, Speedo not a stutter.....till I removed connector. ARGGG!!

[rbm]

I can understand problems with the speedo since the source signal from the VR sensor in the final drive outputs such a low signal.  Any corrosion or poor contact can loose the signal.  However, the tach signal comes directly from the coil primary and is 80 Volts in amplitude.  Any loss due to poor contact will be overwhelmed and the signal will get through.  Also, you confirm that all other functions are operating on the cluster, meaning the connector is good.  It might be time to open the gauge cluster and examine the inside.

[Atabeach]

Ok opened the cluster...looks brand new. I will remove troublesome 3 pin contact and use copper based contact grease. Anything else? while I have her open? Are there any other contacts to clean? Should I change bulbs?

[Atabeach]

Ok People...Cause of the problem was the 24 pin connection. The bottom section of connector where the wire cluster is...the sharp bend in the wires causes the LONG connector to deflect or bend somewhat. The result is loosening of electrical contact/signal over time.. Carefully use metallic "contact grease" applied only to female contacts. Thanks for all of your help! By the way ...Never fixed the blinker cancelling problem...Ill use my thumb!

[rbm]

If your speedo wasn't working then auto cancel of the turn signals will also not work.  It depends on reading so many pulses from the rear wheel to know how far the bike has moved forward.  Now that (I presume) your speedometer and tachometer is fixed, the auto cancel should also return.

[Atabeach]

The original problem was the auto cancelling feature. I took apart the 24 pin connector to "fix" the problem. When I re installed the connector I lost all rpm/speedo function. Question: Where does the signal from distance travelled contact the cluster to shut off "blinker"? Which pin connector or other contact could have failed. Note: every single light, gauge, and electrical item is working..Ergo I may not want to take this apart again!!

[rbm]

There is a Blue/Green wire on Pin 21 of the cluster which is Speedo output".  This series of pulses is sent to Pin "I" on the flasher module.  This input to the flasher module is processed by an IC inside the module that sends a cancel signal internally when the required number of pulses have been read by the IC.  That number represents about 200 meters of travel.  If Pin 21 is not sending pulses to the flasher module, then auto cancel will not work.

[Atabeach]

Ok, Speedo works auto cancel does not.. Not worth taking apart again until something else goes. Thanks!

[frankenduck]

If the auto cancel is broken you can swap in a Kisan SM-6 Signal Minder. It does auto cancel after 8, 30 0r 45 seconds but pauses that count when brakes applied - like at a stoplight.

The SM-6 also allows:
Use of LED turn signal bulbs
Use  turn signals as running lights - two levels of brightness available
Hit left or right turn button a second time to cancel. (OEM cancel button still works though.)
Hit both turn buttons at same time to turn on hazard flashers.

https://kisantech.com/sm-6.html

[daveson]

Maybe remove the flasher unit, check it's plug, clean it, and spray some deoxit on the contacts.

Or give the wire a wiggle, it might have the same problem as the speedo signal had.

[rbm]

Do you have access to a spare flasher module that you can swap with the one you have now?