Fun and Games with an old K1100LT

[beemuker]

I think my New to me  K 11 fuel pump is toast Duralast has the kit for 225 quantum 90. Anybody have luck with these quantum kits. I need a damper  and screan , so the kit makes sense . I could try soak in my old fuel pump what should I soak it in and what about the fuel level sender any success cleaning that up. And what’s the best way to clean the tank out I was thinking of flushing it out with a hose to get all the big stuff out the then put some vinegar in there. Advice?

[beemuker]

I ordered the quantum kit $90 free two day shipping.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I have that Quantum kit in a K100 and it works fine.

Throw the fuel sender in a pan of vinegar for a couple days.  What ever you do, DON'T try to move the arm!   Eventually, the rust holding the arm will release it.  If it won't move under it's own weight it's not done soaking.

[beemuker]

I didn’t try to move it but it’s moving on its own. I think that’s good?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Yeah, that's good news.  I think I would give it a bit of a good soaking with penetrating oil to clean up any residual corrosion and protect it until it gets submerged in fuel again.  Be very protective of the wire windings.  I found out the hard way how fragile they are.

[beemuker]

Yeah, that's good news.  I think I would give it a bit of a good soaking with penetrating oil to clean up any residual corrosion and protect it until it gets submerged in fuel again.  Be very protective of the wire windings.  I found out the hard way how fragile they are.

have you or anyone else taking it apart to clean it there’s lots of nooks and crannies that’s hard to get from the outside seems like you could just unbend a tabs and carefully take it apart or should I just leave well enough alone

[Laitch]

or should I just leave well enough alone

Are you certain it's well enough or should you let it get more encrusted? Cleaning instructions are here, although yours would probably benefit from a long duration, spa-style vinegar soak, as Gryph suggested in his earlier post.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Wow, that sender looks rough.

Yes, a good spa style vinegar soak for a couple days would be really appreciated by your sender.  Follow up with a shot of P-Blaster(it has a lot of oil in it) to protect it until you get the bike back on the road.

[beemuker]

Are you certain it's well enough or should you let it get more encrusted? Cleaning instructions are here, although yours would probably benefit from a long duration, spa-style vinegar soak, as Gryph suggested in his earlier post.

thanks for this link, exactly what I needed. I have been soaking it in vinegar and I got most of the crust off but it’s real difficult to get at the inside I was going to take it apart but this is giving me more confidence you guys are the best.

[beemuker]

Wow, that sender looks rough.

Yes, a good spa style vinegar soak for a couple days would be really appreciated by your sender.  Follow up with a shot of P-Blaster(it has a lot of oil in it) to protect it until you get the bike back on the road.

The windings look shot. I'll test ,it but I'm not hopeful. Euromotoelectric wants almost $300 for a new one. I hope the low fuel indicator will work, or at least the trip meter.

[rbm]

Use an ohmmeter to test the windings.  There should be 150 Ohms across the entire resistor, and you should be able to measure the varying resistance as you move the arm by placing one meter lead on one side of the resistor and the other on the wiper.

Even if the resistor is shot, the fuel pump connections should still continue to work, as should the low fuel indicator.  The low fuel is a separate wiper and a separate circuit card located below the one with the wire-wound resistor.  You can do the same functional check by measuring the continuity between White and Brown wires.  Move the arm and continuity should suddenly be measured when the arm nears its travel limits in one direction.  It would be useful to open the fuel level sender and clean the circuit card and wiper.  The instructions Laitch linked to will give you instructions.

[beemuker]

Use an ohmmeter to test the windings.  There should be 150 Ohms across the entire resistor, and you should be able to measure the varying resistance as you move the arm by placing one meter lead on one side of the resistor and the other on the wiper.

Even if the resistor is shot, the fuel pump connections should still continue to work, as should the low fuel indicator.  The low fuel is a separate wiper and a separate circuit card located below the one with the wire-wound resistor.  You can do the same functional check by measuring the continuity between White and Brown wires.  Move the arm and continuity should suddenly be measured when the arm nears its travel limits in one direction.  It would be useful to open the fuel level sender and clean the circuit card and wiper.  The instructions Laitch linked to will give you instructions.

Thanks yeah the windings were shot I took it apart and cleaned it real good install the sender And the pump and filter and buttoned it all up going to install the tank tomorrow put the battery in and hopefully it’ll crank thanks for all your help guys

[beemuker]

I ordered the quantum kit $90 free two day shipping.

An FYI on the quantum kit. It does not come with the proper hoses ,nuts ,clamps,and special inserts for the mounting ring. I bought the proper hoses locally and was able to clean up the mounting hardware. You can buy a cheaper filter and pump, but the $90 wasn't bad considering it comes with the vibration damper [$100 from Max] and pre filter. You can also buy the kit without the pump for $40.
https://www.highflowfuel.com/product-result/?ymmq=lk_motorcycle-scooter~yr_1993~mk_bmw~dq_k1100lt~zp_efi

[beemuker]

Thanks yeah the windings were shot I took it apart and cleaned it real good install the sender And the pump and filter and buttoned it all up going to install the tank tomorrow put the battery in and hopefully it’ll crank thanks for all your help guys

well it cranked, but no noise out of pump. Pulled and tested fuses, are they all supposed to be 15 amp?
Unplugged  4 pin , only getting about 7.5  volts out of yellow  wire?12.9 out of battery.

[Laitch]

Pulled and tested fuses, are they all supposed to be 15 amp?

They're all 15A fuses. Go to this section then download the K1100LT/RS service manual and the K1100 Rider's Manual. The rider's manual will answer all the lesser questions like the amperage of fuses and how to use the side stand. 

[beemuker]

Should I be getting 12v at 4 pin

[Laitch]

You're welcome.

[beemuker]

You're welcome.

thanks. I'm just getting frustrated trying to find info. I really appreciate all the help. trying to figure out why the fuel pump is not working without pulling everything out after I got it all back together. One step forward, 2 steps back.

[Laitch]

Describe how you're conducting this "test" of pump voltage.

[beemuker]

after about 1 hour of searching, I found this
Green/White = +12V for pump (pin 15)
Brown = Ground (pin 31)
White = Low fuel indicator (pin W)
Yellow = Fuel level (pin G)
after switching on ignition, I get no voltage at female green/white on connector. allother electrics seem to work. flashers, headlight horn. I switched relays, no help. ?

[Laitch]

after about 1 hour of searching, I found this
Green/White = +12V for pump (pin 15)
Brown = Ground (pin 31)
White = Low fuel indicator (pin W)
Yellow = Fuel level (pin G)
after switching on ignition, I get no voltage at female green/white on connector. allother electrics seem to work. flashers, headlight horn. I switched relays, no help. ?

Are you testing with the side stand up? It needs to be up. You need to verify that the side stand switch works correctly, or that it has been bypassed.

[beemuker]

Yes, stand up. That possibility dawned on me quite a while agoThere is no switch at least not down there where my previous bikes have had them

[beemuker]

Call the previous owner there is a side stand switch and the last time it ran last year he says it was working and it Hass to be up to start it must be in a different location then my other bikes I don’t see a wire running up or the connector where it was on my other bikes.
Check for voltage with the side stand up and ignition key on my first turn the key it shows about 11 or 12 V and then quickly goes down to zero that wire coming from the fuel sender was pretty rough and cracked in places especially down near the sender , I may have to pull the fuel sender out and try to rewire it but it’s cracked mostly down near the bottom and I’m not the greatest at soldering I don’t think I can get a splice on it

[rbm]

The fuel pump relay on the K1100 will receive the 12V to its coil  when the ignition switch is put into the on position,  It will engage for 1 - 2 seconds to prime the fuel system when the moronic is first powered up.  Power for the pump comes from Fuse 6 and travels through the fuel pump relay contacts and finally to ground.  If the side stand is up, the side stand switch will not be engage and power will flow to the pump.  However,  power to the motronic relay is still controlled by the side stand switch.  If the side stand is down, the motronic will not complete the fuel relay ground path and the pump will not run.

What does this mean for you.
- if fuse 6 is blown, no power to the fuel pump. check fuse 6
- if side stand switch defective or side stand down, then motronic will not start the pump. check for power on pin 86 (Green/yellow) of fuel pump relay. check side stand switch and its wiring.  bypass side stand switch  if needed
- if fuel relay defective, then fuel pump will not run. check for power into pin 30 (red/green).

[beemuker]

Thanks rbm. Supposed to get some bad weather tomorrow it’ll be a good day for inside wrenching