Recent Posts

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Photographic Ride Reports / Re: Beach Road Ride in Melbourne
« Last post by natalena on Today at 07:28:17 AM »
Well Done! A Scrambler with room to carry your beach kit and trainers :)
Photographic Ride Reports / Re: Rainy brick
« Last post by natalena on Today at 07:26:52 AM »
Did you At least spray the Chlorox bottles black??

Nope, the OEM Safety White color works great. The GS covers are on the "Bday wish list" now, especially since we just dipped into the 40's.
Project Classic Motobricks / Re: Phoenix Rising - '93 K75RT Fire Recovery
« Last post by rbm on Today at 06:41:37 AM »
This one measurement seems ok.  I measured a brand new sensor's overall response and published the results as an Excel file.  At 21C, i measured 1,756 Ohms.
An update on the bike progress.

I got it starting and running consistently.  I had a significant air leak at the intake manifold added some gasket sealer and that took care of the air leak.  But it is idling smoothly.  I took it down the street to get some fresh gas and it ran smooth.

I tested the water temp sensor #10 & #13 pin on the EFI plug and it measured at 2.06 K ohms at about 70F/21C.  I think it seems a little low but is close to the 2.5k ohms I see posted.  Is that close enough or does that indicate I should replace the temp sensor?  I will need to pull the radiator to replace the fan soon so i can easily do the sensor at the same time.

 I still need to check the valves and balance the throttle body.

Project Custom Motobricks / Re: K100 GSXR conversion questions
« Last post by rbm on October 21, 2018, 08:03:59 PM »
Max, if you don't get satisfaction from Cognito and are forced to modify the parts yourself, I'd recommend getting the work done at a local machine shop.  You need precision and you won't achieve that by hand filing.
The Motobrick Workshop / Re: K75S brake issues
« Last post by szabgab on October 21, 2018, 06:36:08 PM »
Yes, to see uneven wear.

Great stuff, I will try that. Especially that the wheel starts to bind a bit more again, so probably there was some minuscule debris left behind somehow and now it is making it's way back to the mc (although I could have sweared, everything is pristine, once finished)... The front squeal is back occasionally too, so I guess it is like Laitch said, those spiffy pads are whining for my attention :)
FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Re: FS: 1987 K75 Radiator and Cooling fan
« Last post by Bmwbob on October 21, 2018, 05:48:58 PM »
Iím interested

Shipping to

Bob harper
404 Parkview Drive
Kingston, ontario, canada
K7M 4B3

I bought the russel seat from you
FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear / Leaky k75 rad
« Last post by Bmwbob on October 21, 2018, 05:44:23 PM »
WTB - K75 rad - My k75 radiator has just developed a leak on the lower rt side between the metal rad body and the plastic side- looks like the seal behind the metal to plastic crimping has failed. Is this repairable? Anyone have a good spare?
Project Classic Motobricks / BMW K75RT Ultima Restoration: Rear Indicators
« Last post by Wollyjumperuk on October 21, 2018, 05:32:34 PM »
With the lower part of the tail fairing in place, the indicators were the next job, so all the parts were, as usual, laid out to see what I had...

... so it looks like just a case of a tidy up and a check for operation .

The plastics were cleaned up with Muc-Off motorcycle cleaner, WD-40 for the more stubborn bits and final clean off with more Muc-Off...

... which were then bolted back into place on the bike...

... and the electrics run into the housings...

... to make sure the cable runs were good with no snagging.

Each of the indicators were checked for operation in turn (please forgive the pun!)...

... with no issues there.

The lenses were then reattached to the housings...

... completing the job.

As always, if you'd like further details, please see
Project Classic Motobricks / BMW K75RT Ultima Restoration: Wiring Loom & Fusebox
« Last post by Wollyjumperuk on October 21, 2018, 05:26:09 PM »
So, as I've been adding things back to the frame, I've been adding in the wiring loom, so you will have seen this in pictures on previous posts, but I wanted to detail the main loom installation in 1 go here.

The harness was pulled out of the box and laid out...

... and given a once over to check for any damaging to the harness. The only damage was seen was the missing loom wrap on the section which gets the brunt of the road crud as it runs along the side of the undertray.

To start the re-build, the fuse box was cleaned up and the internals rearranged before being refitted into their original positions, starting with the cabelling for the alternator fed though before the internals were bolted in ...

... and fitted back into the bike and the wiring loom fed into the front of the frame...

... allowing the cables for the coil packs to be connected up straight away, followed by the power socket and the cover...

... which tidies that up.

The loom was fed through the front of the frame, with the rear section of the loom brought through above the airbox...

... allowing everything which had to go forward being slung over the handlebars before the plastic trim under the loom was added.

With the rear section of the loom now held on the bike, it allowed good access to the damaged section of the loom. All the loose wrap was removed and taken back to good material, which was held in place with electrical tape...

... and the exposed section wrapped with electrical wiring loom material to keep everything together and protect the cabelling ...

... and, of course, it looks a lot better.

At the front of the frame, the ignition control unit was added into the recess in the frame allowing this to be connected up.

The battery was added to the bike, with the screws and retaining plate getting a complete strip and re-paint due to the the corrosion seen on the parts...

... which, once cured were put in place to clamp down the battery.

The rear of the loom was run along the inside edge of the frame on the right hand side which will be tied into position once everything is in place, to allow of routing into the best position.

The rearward section of the harness was run to the rear mudguard and back through the lower portion of the tail fairing ...

... with the fuel injection control unit put in place and electrically attached...

... completing the main run of the wiring loom.

The remaining electrical connections will be dealt with in each of their respective sections.

As always, if you'd like further details, please see
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