New Member - New Jersey

[mcgyver74]

Nice to meet everyone.

Just became the owner of a 1990 K75s that belonged to my dad for many years,  due to health issues he can no longer ride so gave me the bike.    Sadly it's been sitting outside for years (Under a cover but still) so I have a fair amount of work to do in order to make it safe again.

My current ride is a 2010 Kawasaki Concours 1400 which I love but it's getting a bit heavy for some of the riding I do, as I no longer am doing a lot of interstate blasting I wanted something more nimble and the K fits the bill perfectly

Looking forward to enjoying riding it.

[Laitch]

Welcome, mcgyver74!

Start a thread in the Projects Classic Motobricks section when you start in on it. Check the Photo Guidance section and try posting a few photos of it here.

[Chaos]

Welcome, the 75s is one of the better K's in my humble opinion.  First thing, if it had any gas in it drain it before trying to start it.  Old gas is kryptonite, and check the tank for dissolved rubber bits from the fuel pump dampener.  That seems to happen when they sit in old gas.  Lots of threads here on what to check, I'm sure others will chime in.  Good Luck!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Welcome!  As mentioned, the fuel will probably be the biggest hurdle to making the engine run if it's been sitting for more than a year or so.

First thing is that the ethanol will have absorbed a bunch of moisture and caused corrosion in the tank that may have caused leaks at the low points.  Look for bubbling paint at the lowest points where water would collect.  It can also cause the fuel level sender to rust and seize the float.

The ethanol also dissolves the rubber vibration mount for the fuel pump.  Remove the filler and look inside the tank.  With luck you won't see a bunch of black goo floating around that will require tank removal and cleaning.  There are lots of threads here about owners dealing with that mess.

If the tank is okay and the fuel pump runs, change the filter and put a gallon of fuel mixed with a bottle of Techron Fuel System Cleaner in it and try to start.  Odds are it won't, but that's okay.  Start a program of cranking the engine for 10-15 seconds a couple times a day while you work on other stuff.  If the bike ran when it was stored, cranking will circulate the Techron and cycle the injectors.  This will help clean out the varnish that may have formed in the injectors. 

Get a new battery and charge it for a half hour each time you crank the engine so that it stays fully charged.  Of course, you are going to change all the fluids and do a full service on the electrical system and critical rubber bits that control the flow of fuel and air around the engine.

Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions.

[mcgyver74]

Thanks everyone, all great suggestions :)

My plan is to completely drain the tank if there is anything in it, then check all the rubber bits and see if they are ok as well as a new fuel filter.  I will likely also replace all the rubber hoses in the tank (I've seen them LOOK ok but have swelled almost shut from ethanol :()

once that is done, i will put techron in with fresh fuel and try to start her up,  hopefully she lights,   after that I am dumping ALL fluids.

My plans as of now are:

1) Drain fuel, change fuel filter replace rubber hoses
2) Get running, warm it up then dump oil and filter
3) Flush coolant,  possibly replace hoses
4) Replace brake hoses, and replace fluid
5) New brakes (Needs to be done, i suspect warped rotors)
6) Final drive fluid, and lube the final drive splines (the input shaft splines were done less then 5 k miles)
7) Transmission fluid change
8) New air filter
9) Fork oil
10) Check rear shock and replace if bad
11) Tires front and rear
12) Grease pivots (Side/center/Clutch/brake etc)
13) new battery
14) Check wiring in case rodents had a snack


Anything else I forgot? :)

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Looks like you have a good plan.  All I would add is to get a can of Deoxit D5 electronics cleaner and give every electrical connection(including the fuses) on the bike a shot and work the connector a few times.  Go to the ground points under the tank and on the side of the transmission and polish the lugs and the spot on the frame where they contact.  A light smear of electrical grease will keep them clean.  A bike that's been sitting out in the weather for a few years is almost guaranteed to have grounding issues.

Then you also want to pull the starter and the alternator and check the brushes and the commutator in the starter.  The starter is a critical part in the electrical system, and worn brushes with a dirty commutator can cause headaches.  You also want to look at the rubber drive cushions(AKA monkey nutz) in the alternator drive coupling for wear.

Other potential electrical trouble spots are the transmission gear position indicator switch which lives in an ugly spot next to the output shaft on the transmission, and the ignition switch which can have intermittent contact issues that cause strange electrical and running problems like cutting out when you are rolling along at 75 on the interstate.  There is information here on how to service these critical parts.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Last thing before you hit the road is to check the valve clearances and balance the throttle bodies.  The bike will run without these things being done, but they are the cherry on the cake to make a smooth bike run as smoothly as possible, especially at idle.

[Gio]

Welcome mcgyver ... as a fellow 75s owner be prepared for addiction - I was so fond of my '94 (which also had a family connection) that I brought it over from the UK many years ago ... so good luck with the job list - lot's of great help and experience available (as you have already seen) here on motobrick ...

Gio

[stokester]

I will add my welcome to the list.
There is a wealth of information on this site and there is a good chance that any issue(s) you come across has been addressed but don't be afraid to ask any questions.  Most of us have been in the same situation.
I liked my '93 K75 so much I had to buy another!