What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[Glacial]

Tried to replace the inlet manifolds on my K75S but the head snapped off the first machine screw I tried to get out, even though I had soaked them in PlusGas.  Looks like some PO used large quantities of thread lock.  Can't drill the remains out because the frame prevents getting the drill at 90 degrees to the job.  So to do a proper job I will have to separate frame and drive train.  Frustrating!!!!

So to keep the bike running well until major surgery, I glued up the cracks in the manifolds with polyurethane adhesive/sealant, put it all back together and balanced the throttles.  Now idles very nicely, but not a job to be proud of. :nono

[staffordworks]

changed the oil 20-50 partial synth
put in new plugs, they didn't have any normal ones that fit so i tried some fancy E3 diamond fire, probably no advantage other than you don't have to gap them, bike seems happy with them though.
added some coolant and brake fluid.

tonight i get to put on a new rear shock thanks to a fellow bricker, not sure my neck can take much more bouncing.

next: exhaust leak, L-jetronic adjustment? new brake pads, new fork oil and if i'm feeling really rich i'll finally replace the headlight glass that i shattered flipping my brick a year and a half ago, tape is gettin crusty :)

[racinrich]

replaced steering head bearings, handle bar bushings, throttle cable, sync throttle bodies , replaced front speed sensor, fuel tank filler  seal, replaced worn clutch handle

[Zipster]

Replaced battery and changed oil and filter. Still fighting with my soldering iron trying to sort out the manual switch for the fan! Gonna have to get a new one I think. :-(

[Zipster]

Mileage noted at battery change - just about run in!

[K75RT Keith]

Repainted the heat shield on the exhaust with a ceramic engine paint

[Chaos]

Mileage noted at battery change - just about run in!

Not properly run in until you get rid of that first zero.  Your's beats mine at poker!

[Zipster]

Not properly run in until you get rid of that first zero.  Your's beats mine at poker!

Lol - fair one! I do my best to catch up :-)

[F14CRAZY]

Ripped the bike apart just to get to the clutch and rearrange them in an effort to cure a nasty vibration (complete thread in The Workshop)

[drut]

Changed fuel filter,didn't have any issues but got a shock to see date on filter.

[Zipster]

Changed fuel filter,didn't have any issues but got a shock to see date on filter.

I had one of those a few weeks back. Mine is a 96 bike and it was a 94 filter. Do you think it could have been the original filter? My bike has just clicked over 98,000 miles and I would hate to think none of the previous owners loved it!!

[drut]

"Do you think it could have been the original filter?"

I really don't know,hard to say how long filter was held "in stock".My filter,despite its age marking,was still working well with no indication of restriction & I found it just as easy to blow through as the new mahle kl 145 filter that replaced it.Guess its a lottery how long these filters last depending on fuel quality.

[sh00ter]

ballllllllszzzz ~ !@#$(*#@(@!#$

replaced the oil sight glass, original and it was leaking and nearly opaque.

came out not too badly ... new one nearly in - couple more taps with the drift, slip.  F#*#  the new ones are glass.   shatterry, shardy glass, if you hit them with anything sharp or solid, they shatter.   like a water glass.   tiny shards of glass are required now to be dug out and then pop out, get a new one ... grrr .... I think I got all the couple little pieces that went inside the pan, maybe 1mm or smaller, but grrr.  why would they make it glass?  I guess so it doesn't fade like the plastic, but removing the glass ones (if you had to) would be a serious pain (AMHIK) ..

oh well - there goes another 50 spot to max.

[TimTyler]

It's a good idea when you do this to chock the front wheel so it won't rotate/move. I also bungee the front hand brake lever. If the bike get's bumped and the front wheel is free, those saw horses will tip over fast.

[F14CRAZY]

It's a good idea when you do this to chock the front wheel so it won't rotate/move. I also bungee the front hand brake lever. If the bike get's bumped and the front wheel is free, those saw horses will tip over fast.

You know, that sounds smart. I always block/chock cars and use jackstands when I work under them but don't know why I didn't think of it in this case.

On facebook my best buddy posted that one famous photo of a guy welding underneath a pickup propped up by a 2x4...

[mystic red]

[On facebook my best buddy posted that one famous photo of a guy welding underneath a pickup propped up by a 2x4...quote]   :mbird

[Zipster]

Today wasn't a bike day! 8th day of June and it should be glorious weather and dry roads. Instead we get this!

[detbmw]

Sprayed plastidip on the OEM windscreen - the white specks are bug residue from a recent ride.



And what the bike looked like with the Aeroflow windscreen.

[johnny]

greetings detbmw...

thats whack... butts im digging it...

j o

[detbmw]

greetings detbmw...

thats whack... butts im digging it...

j o

I should of added, I pushed the screws through a piece of cardboard and painted the screw heads and washers black.

I like it.

[CRASH]

Tiors ... front and back ... I always replace in sets ... motorycle type because I am not an idiot.

Earl ... Amsoil Synthetic because that is what I use in everything and have for decades and it works.

Odyssey Battery ... again, what I always use, like em .. and this one after 4 years and about 75k miles had decided to become flakey.  Decided I did not want to carry a charger with me on trips anymore.

[Glacial]

Took all the engine covers off prior to removing the cylinder head (rocker, timing, crankcase).  Why? Because four out of six inlet manifold bolts broke off when trying to replace the manifolds.  It is now an engineering shop job.  Two hour job becomes a week if I'm lucky.  Much rather be riding it!!

[drut]

May be of help,exhaust with heat issues:likely,inlet without heat issues maybe not!

[Opus]

May be of help,exhaust with heat issues:likely,inlet without heat issues maybe not!

Best to not use Red Loctite at all. Coat threads with copper anti-seize and Torque to spec. Per BMW Mech. I know, you should never have to use Red or Blue Loctite.
If you do need to use Loctite, use only Blue as it is the easiest to remove. Make sure to re-check and re-torque the bolts/nuts after a day or 2 to make sure they are tight.
If you use the Copper Anti-seize, bolt/nut removal will be easier also.

Just my 2cents..... :2thumbup:

[Glacial]

Thanks for the suggestions/advice.  I did apply heat before trying to remove the machine screws but couldn't use a blow torch because I would have set the rubber om the manifold on fire.  The heat gun almost did so but clearly did not put enough heat in the right place.

Head is now off and being prepared for the shop.  Good news is the pistons and valves all look in good condition with just healthy quantities and colours of deposits.