What Did You Did To Your Motobrick Today ?

[Soggz]

Need to lube those nipples

Agreed, but aluminium STILL wears against hardened steel. The grease just turns it into a mild cutting paste.

[Laitch]

Agreed, but aluminium STILL wears against hardened steel.

Which part is the hardened steel?

[Soggz]

Which part is the hardened steel?

The barrel, apparently.

[billday]

Why?
Well, in the case of my lever, the hardened steel nipple/barrel, has worn out the softer aluminium lever hole where it sits. I.e, it’s not round anymore, so now it’s a ‘sloppy’ fit. I’m sure not everyone’s is like this, but it is 30+ year old aluminium under a lot of friction. Yours may be in a better state, but an older one like mine, will eat clutch cables over time. I’ll take some pics of new V old when I get it, for comparison.

Once a year, grease the barrel that holds the nipple in the clutch lever so that it rotates freely when you pull in the lever. It's an imperfect design but keeping the rotating part lubricated can prevent it causing you trouble.

[Soggz]

Once a year, grease the barrel that holds the nipple in the clutch lever so that it rotates freely when you pull in the lever. It's an imperfect design but keeping the rotating part lubricated can prevent it causing you trouble.

Hi. I realise this, and I will grease it for as long as I keep the bike, but I don’t think that the 12 previous owners before me bothered to!

[Martin]

I'm still on my 1992 OEM cable. Every service I grease both nipples and the lever wear surfaces. I've fitted a grease nipple to the clutch arm and this gets greased twice a year. And I also flush and lube the cable twice a year with PTFE lubricant which is safe with the OEM Teflon lined cable.
Regards Martin.

[Filmcamera]

Installed OEM Low Seat Kit from Eville Rich.  Great outcome.  Dawn patrol tomorrow with lower c/g and new radial Battlax T30s.  Question to those w low seat: latch actuator rod seems 1/2 inch too short.  Is there a parts diagram out there showing a fitting for the threaded end?

Here is the parts fiche from Max BMW





I have a low seat on my bike and the actuator rod is a little short on mine as well.  It does fit and does work but only just...

[Skunky]

I Made a modification to the side stand today. The purpose of the modification is to ........

1 - Reduce the angle and weight of the bike on the stand.

2 - To allow the bike to be lowered onto the stand while your still sitting on it

My K had a spring loaded side stand which came up, with force when the weight of the bike was lifted off. It also seemed to lean a long way over putting a lot of weight on the stand and making it unusable on a camber. It was virtually impossible to put the bike on the side stand when sitting on it because to hold the stand forward you had to take your weight bearing foot off the floor. Therefore you had get off the bike before you put it on the stand, balancing the bike and performing the Rudolph Nureyev arabesque required to get off is not the easiest or most graceful dismount.

Anyway. Shortening the side stand bolt allows the stand to stay down once put there and making a foot extension hardwood and a thick rubber pad reduced the angle to lean.

Job Done.     


Stand1.jpg (48.79 kB . 432x576 - viewed 542 times)

Stand2.jpg (47.25 kB . 437x576 - viewed 558 times)



 

[beemrdon]

A Hocky Puck Lean Angle Solution...(not my original idea)

I drilled a small hole through a hocky puck, then ran a length of para cord, aka string,  through it and secured it with a square knot. I made a loop at the other end. Done.

When necessary, I take the puck out of either the tank bag or the empty fairing pocket where the shitty radio used to be (LT). Then I drop the puck onto the ground and put the side stand leg on top of it. Next I place the loop end over the left side handlebar as a reminder that it is there.

Makes the lean angle a lot less and doesn't sink in loose surface.

(sorry, too lazy to go and take a pic)

[Nine80seven]

How does the extension not interfere with the center stand when retracted!  Awhile back I added a little to the bottom of the side stand KRS '84' and it interfered with the center stand, so it was removed.  Now I'll have revisit this task.

[Soggz]

Lots this evening. Fitted the ‘proper’ rear rack, and new clutch lever and pivot bolt. Clutch now loads smoother. Greased with home made moly grease.The wear in the lever is evident, hence the ‘up and down’ slop, which has now vanished.

[Laitch]

The wear in the lever is evident, hence the ‘up and down’ slop, which has now vanished.

Do you know how many miles had been racked up on that relic before you got a hold of it?

[Soggz]

Do you know how many miles had been racked up on that relic before you got a hold of it?

the speedo said 78,000+ When I got it last September, but the previous owner said that the original speedo broke and was replaced with one that had 10000 miles more on it. I’ve done 1000 on it since the 1st of June this year.

[Skunky]

How does the extension not interfere with the center stand when retracted!  Awhile back I added a little to the bottom of the side stand KRS '84' and it interfered with the center stand, so it was removed.  Now I'll have revisit this task.

Admittedly when I use the centre stand I have to push the side stand down first and again when you take it off.  Less of a problem that the excessive lean. 

[Martin]

I used a piece of boat roller and a 5" inch post cap for soft and sandy ground. A mate used a 6" X 6" piece of aluminium on a cord for soft ground.
Regards Martin.

BMW Side Stand Spacer.jpg (21.2 kB . 431x288 - viewed 568 times)

[Skunky]

I used a piece of boat roller and a 5" inch post cap for soft and sandy ground. A mate used a 6" X 6" piece of aluminium on a cord for soft ground.
Regards Martin.

BMW Side Stand Spacer.jpg (21.2 kB . 431x288 - viewed 568 times)

And do you get clearance Clarence?

[K1300S]

Lots this evening. Fitted the ‘proper’ rear rack, and new clutch lever and pivot bolt. Clutch now loads smoother. Greased with home made moly grease.The wear in the lever is evident, hence the ‘up and down’ slop, which has now vanished.

nice! quite a difference between the old and new levers.

[Martin]

Side stand needs to be deployed first and retracted last.
Regards Martin.

[Soggz]

nice! quite a difference between the old and new levers.

yup. More of a pleasure to ride

[natalena]

Twisted Throttle has the SW-Motech bar riser for K bikes on sale. Got a set for about $65.00 (bar=22mm, H=30mm, Back=21mm), and they shipped super fast.
The kit is very nice with plastic plugs to detail fill the hex head bolts. Parts were individually packaged to avoid scratching...which happened on installation anyway.
The stock K75S front brake hose is long enough and just needed to be loosened and pivoted a bit. All other lines had ample length.
Ended up fabing up asymmetrical brackets to avoid any rub on the brake hose, keeping in mind full-lock clearance for the tank cover if used.
Mirrors adjust fine, and the slightly more upright posture is much more comfortable, especially on the wrists/forearms. GPS moves up a bit and blocks the low-gas and "choke" lights a little, although they can still be noted when lit.
Cheers!

[johnny]

greetings...

hey mang is this a 32 year old rubber brake line...
 

just saying mang...


brakefail.png (30.27 kB . 540x576 - viewed 506 times)

j o

[Soggz]

Twisted Throttle has the SW-Motech bar riser for K bikes on sale. Got a set for about $65.00 (bar=22mm, H=30mm, Back=21mm), and they shipped super fast.
The kit is very nice with plastic plugs to detail fill the hex head bolts. Parts were individually packaged to avoid scratching...which happened on installation anyway.
The stock K75S front brake hose is long enough and just needed to be loosened and pivoted a bit. All other lines had ample length.
Ended up fabing up asymmetrical brackets to avoid any rub on the brake hose, keeping in mind full-lock clearance for the tank cover if used.
Mirrors adjust fine, and the slightly more upright posture is much more comfortable, especially on the wrists/forearms. GPS moves up a bit and blocks the low-gas and "choke" lights a little, although they can still be noted when lit.
Cheers!

They look good. Wouldn’t mind some, myself.

[natalena]

greetings...

hey mang is this a 32 year old rubber brake line...
 

just saying mang...


brakefail.png (30.27 kB . 540x576 - viewed 506 times)

Good eye's! Yep, 100% authentic BMW original source. I plan on upgrading the lines when I change out the original 78k mile front brake pads, but so far they're stopping great, as long as you plan in advance and keep a thumb on the horn ready.

[Skunky]

I've got one of those 

[ScooterNSticks]

I removed my instrument cluster on the K75 this morning, packed it up and shipped it off to Overseas Speedometers in Austin, Texas.  The odometer and trip odometer quit working.  While they have it apart they'll replace the burned out illumination lights as well.