Author Topic: Frozen engine  (Read 4088 times)

Offline daveson

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #50 on: March 24, 2022, 03:47:42 PM »
Dunno if that's possible, just a guess. You could measure the clearance required, or spose if you used three washers for the mounting bolts to bring the alternator back a bit, if the engine then turns you're on the right track.
  • Victoria, Australia
  • Current;'85 K100RT~100,000km; four other bricks. Past; 1500 Vulcan, V Star 650, KLX 250(dirt bike) TT250(dirt bike)

Offline redwolfstudio

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  • Posts: 74
Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #51 on: March 24, 2022, 04:22:33 PM »
Excellent, that will be my next step tomorrow!
Thank you 👍
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  • 1990 K75 RT

Offline rbm

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #52 on: March 24, 2022, 05:19:36 PM »
try the following:
1. attach the alternator to the intermediate housing using the mounting bolts
2. tighten them only finger tight so that the alternator is still free to move
3. try to spin the engine using the starter.  Does it spin freely?
4. apply tightening torque to the alternator mounting bolts.
5. try to spin the engine using the starter.  Does it spin freely?

If it spins freely in step 3 but not 5, there is a problem with the cup on the alternator.  Investigate the problem.  What I did was to measure the distance from the mounting face of the intermediate housing to the base of the drive dog (M1).  I also measured the distance from the face of the mounting tab on the alternator to the top of the cup (M2).  M2 has to be less than M1. 
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Offline frankenduck

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #53 on: March 24, 2022, 09:48:20 PM »
FYI: As you probably noticed when you first pulled the alternator, the threads on the three alternator mounting bolts can build up corrosion and be very tough to break free.  Whenever I install a K alternator it is one of the few places where I use anti-seize in case I ever need to pull the alternator in the future.

(Peg plate mounting bolts too.)
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Offline daveson

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #54 on: March 25, 2022, 08:51:34 PM »
I've just read the link from rbm so I recon you should ignore my last guess.

Rbm do I understand it right that in your case the cup pressed on the dog which pressed on the bearing in the intermediate housing? 
  • Victoria, Australia
  • Current;'85 K100RT~100,000km; four other bricks. Past; 1500 Vulcan, V Star 650, KLX 250(dirt bike) TT250(dirt bike)

Offline redwolfstudio

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #55 on: March 28, 2022, 04:32:26 AM »
A little delay in my testing the alternator in place with spacers…
Since I had tested starting the bike and heard the engine turned I wanted to listen to it again for a few seconds before mounting the alternator. And all that happened was a bit of smoke rising from where the stater switch is located and nothing.
I checked the switch and it looks fine so moving on to some other culprit…
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  • 1990 K75 RT

Offline Laitch

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #56 on: March 28, 2022, 07:29:16 AM »
And all that happened was a bit of smoke rising from where the stater switch is located and nothing.
I checked the switch and it looks fine so moving on to some other culprit…
Are you indicating that the engine now spins with the alternator mounted? If not, what is the situation?
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
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Offline redwolfstudio

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #57 on: March 28, 2022, 07:34:15 AM »
No, not yet. I just tried starting the bike without it fist, as I did successfully the day before but instead something went wrong, a small puff of smoke, no start.
So checked the starter relay, and it looks good so moving on to next culprit.
Once I figure it out I will mount the alternator and test start.
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Offline Laitch

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #58 on: March 28, 2022, 08:33:57 AM »
I checked the switch and it looks fine so moving on to some other culprit…
The educated use of an electronic multimeter will help indicate whether that switch is "fine;" its looks don't matter, unless the wire is in flames or charred.  :laughing4-giggles: Is there electrical current passing through the switch to the starter?
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline redwolfstudio

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #59 on: March 28, 2022, 09:51:26 AM »
Thank you. No O don’t have a multimeter and will try and borrow one this week to check.
Thanx again!
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  • 1990 K75 RT

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #60 on: March 28, 2022, 10:04:42 AM »
I don't have the time to go back through all the posts to check, but have you serviced your starter motor?  They usually need cleaning and possibly new brushes after 30 years.
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
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Offline redwolfstudio

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #61 on: March 28, 2022, 10:17:39 AM »
Yes, it runs nicely now:-)
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Offline Laitch

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #62 on: March 28, 2022, 01:42:31 PM »
. . .  have you serviced your starter motor?
Yes, it runs nicely now:-)
Does that mean you disassembled it, cleaned it, reassembled it then bench-tested it?
Before we trek into the weeds, did you resume steps 3, 4 and 5 in Post #55 after the smoke distracted you?
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline redwolfstudio

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #63 on: March 28, 2022, 02:48:11 PM »
Yes, I did go through all the steps and all was fine.
Which is why now I was going to remount the alternator using a set of washers to see if that makes a difference. But I need to find the source of the smoke which happened before remounting the alternator…
Always something:-)
  • Sweden
  • 1990 K75 RT

Offline redwolfstudio

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Re: Frozen engine
« Reply #64 on: April 29, 2022, 03:54:40 AM »
Sorry about long delay, working gets in way.
So the last time I test started it worked fine until one day some smoke came up from what I thought was the electro c box area. Turns out it was the starter motor. I had taken it apart and cleaned but failed to isolate properly the positive lead. So, ordered rebuilt kit and now it cranks again!
Thank you everyone for all your suggestions and advice!
Soon, I will install the fuel tank and go a “full start”
Am sure I’ll be back again soon:-)
  • Sweden
  • 1990 K75 RT

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