A few thoughts:
Why rebuild the transmission? Is there something wrong with it?
K100RS4Vs already have the same wheels as a K1100RS.
The factory springs are progressively wound. (If you're looking to upgrade the springs then you might want to consider Works Performance springs.)
If you're getting rid of the ABS then the easiest way to "trim down" the wiring harness might be to start with a good used one from a non-ABS K100RS4V.
Why build a custom airbox? Cosmetic reasons? The OEM filter does a very good job and is way over-sized for these engines so it is not a performance limiting factor.
1)The tranny is most likely going to be a used one with 70k miles on it and has some signs of use. If I'm giong to the effort of building the bike then might as well make sure that the tranny is fresh. Also, feel it would be a good idea due to the higher HP of the motor.
One of my concerns is will the stock clutch be enough or will I have to find a very expensive after market one.
2)The comment on the wheels was due to my not having a parts bike yet and wanting to be clear as to the wheel sizes. I may end up starting with just a frame so I was just being thourough.
3)Thanks on the works performance recommendation front spring recommendation. :2thumbup:
4)Good idea on the wiring harness. Still will be looking for ways to trim other stuff off.....maybe the bulb monitoring service and shortening the primary ecu connector. Hmm, the last one would be to much work with to little gain but you get the idea. A clean-up of sorts.
5)I have 4 reasons for the custom airbox:
A)Heat management. a)Either reshaped to help direct the air off of the radiator or b)remove airbox from inside the frame, move electric box & battery and then rework inner rear fender to create air passage to pass the heat straight through to the low pressure area at the back of the bike.
B)Custom look that if done right will compliment the bike
C)Weight and space savings
and
D)Hopefully easier air filter changes. :yes :2thumbup:
And if you're going non-ABS and trying to save weight then you can probably get by with a smaller, lighter battery. (Or go lithium-ion.)
Good idea, thanks Duck
I'm not going to say "don't do it" but I will ask "Why?"
What is your goal? What do you want to end up with? You may be better off with keeping the frame from the 1200, and going from there.
Custom final drive will not work. That would be insane machining, which would not work as well as stock. Reliability would suck, and a rough guess would be that it would cost $2000-5000+ to have it made.
You can choose from the available ratios. 3.2 --> 2.54. More info here: http://www.largiader.com/articles/gearing/
If you are going to all this trouble and money, just get a megasquirt system or a Motec, and have it dyno tuned. Dump the motronic, it is old and restricted. Even with a custom Rom, it is not as flexible or capable as a modern fuel controller. You will be tuning in assembly and raw hex values. I have a bluetooth link on my megasquirt 2 for my K75. I datalog with my android phone, and can make most tuning adjustments straight from there. I can take the datalogs which are automatically sent to my email or an online storage location, and use free or inexpensive (30 bucks for the full version) software to analyze them to properly tune the Volumetric Efficiency map. I then send it to the megasquirt via bluetooth with my laptop. I can also strap the laptop to the bike or in the tragkorb, and the laptop tunes it as I drive with a 50 dollar piece of software. The whole setup, including software, cost me about 350 dollars.
1)Why? .....I guess it is because I have in my mind several concepts of what would be ideal bikes for me, personally. The manufacturers are good at making bikes for the masses but in doing so make choices or compromises that lead to things that I would like to modify/change.
On the whole, I love the 91-92 K100rs. I love the classic brick look, durability, relatively light maintenance schedule, that it is a dry clutch, its shaft drive and riding position.
I don't like the voluntarilly detuned 100hp, ABS, heat issues, and changing the air filter.
Little annoyances that could be improved are the single dry clutch's tendency to for grabby engagement, the shift from first to second and the 600lb+ wet weight(Honestly, getting down to 550-ish fully loaded would be great).
2)As to keeping the 1200's frame or just getting one and starting from there?
A)Don't like the look as much. If I wanted a racer boy look I'd go with a Honda or Yamaha.
B)I love the look of both the 91-92 K100rs and the 93-96 K1100rs. My current bike will eventually run 1100rs lowers so the project is going to get the old school classic K look.
My plan to use the 1200 motor was to get the extra HP and Torque. I admit that I might end up using an 1100 motor if it is easier to get the desired 130+HP and 80-ish Ft/pd of torque but it depends.
The question of which one for me hinges on a couple of factors:
A)Old 1100 motors are getting harder to find
B)Rumored reliability issues with the 1200
C)Which one gets me closest to the power figures mentioned while keeping the bike light and with the least engine modifications.
3)Thanks for the info on the Final drives. I was not aware that there was a 2.62 and a 2.54 that could be installed in parraleveler final. That is perfect for what I'm thinking of.
4)I was not aware of the Motech or Megasquirt systems. They sound great and if they are rock solid reliable they could solve another problem I have. Finding early motronic 2.1's in working order is getting difficult.
Please tell me more about these aftermarket fuel control systems.
How reliable are they?
Can they be set up to be switchable between multiple maps without having to stop and reprogram?
How Stable are the settings?(Do you have to constantly tinker or can you set and forget?)
How hard are they to install?(Do you need a degree from MMI or MIT or are they simpler and forgiving to those who are not on the cutting edge of computers?)
Do they follow the K.I.S.S. principal to some degree?(I know, KISS would dictate not doing any of this :dunno guess I'm sometimes contradictory :laugh)
My question is what do you have when you are done? I could see putting a Paralever backside on a K75 or 100. Or a front end from a 1100 on a 75.
The K1100 is a great bike. Other that a few more horses, what more do you get from a 1200?
My best description as to what I would have?
A K1100rs with the power of a 1200rs and the look of a classic K. Plus, maybe relieve the heat issue a bit and make air cleaner changes easier. :2thumbup:
Or take an 1100, and add a turbo. Far more horses than a 1200. Cheaper than all the other stuff you are planning. Put a low ratio final drive on it, and it will go 180 mph.
No turbos. Thet are fine on deisel cars and trucks, but I hate the power delivery when on a bike. I mean there is plenty of power, it is "how" it comes on. You ever goose a turbo bike just a bit too much on exiting a curve?
Really, the 130-ish ponies and a top speed of 160-ish will be plenty as long as the 0-60 stays at 3.9 or less and the 1/4 mile stays in the 11.2 or better.
Thanks for the feed back guys, please keep the info coming.
Freelancer